How helpful is a light mover?

Greeting friends and fellow growers,

I'm considering increasing the size of my flowering box using a 6' light mover. I'm currently using a hanging box build from PVC and mylar with dimensions of 50"x50"x9'. You can check out the construction here..

Hanging Mylar Box Tent Using Cheap PVC

I can easily add another hanging wall section on each side, which would increase the dimensions to 50"x100"x9', basically doubling the area.

I'm wondering if adding a 6' light mover, along with my 600w HPS would allow me to do this? It's no so much that I need the extra yield, but I'd have a lot more space to work with, could grow more varieties and experiment a little more.

If this works like I suspect, I would be able to double the size of my flower area, while still using the same about of energy (so no extra cost).

So, is this doable or will it prevent me from getting nice hard nugs that I want?

How reliable are the light movers and do they use much electricity?

TIA for any comments!!

:peace:

Harry
 
If you need more coverage they are great. I have a 5' that I trimmed down to 4'... They don't use mush elect. at all.... I haven't used mine in awhile but will probably hook it back up when I change the flowering room again... :peace:
 
Thanks for info Be Irie!!

I guess what I'm wondering is if the tightness of the nugs decrease when you move the light around in this manner. It just seem that a light moving back and forth might not be as good as having the light right over your plants at all times. Or, does the light coming in from all the different angles actually offset that.

:peace:

Harry
 
I've heard that the light movers work well, but how well I don't know. I haven't actually see one working except in the hydro shop where they were growing tomato plants... Sorry... ;-)
 
I didn't notice a decrease in anything, but mine is a shorter track then a 6' . So even when it was on one side of the mover I was still getting light at the other side. It also seemed to help keep the heat down. I would prefer my second light over the mover though, but I am in smaller area with a lower plant count..
 
I may be able to shed some light on the situation. I use to use a 6 foot light rail for (1) 400 watt light that ran the length of my garden towards the front from left to right. I also had (3) 400 watt lights stationary throughout the garden from left to right towards the back. The buds under the light rail were never as big and tight as the ones under the stationary lights. I would recommend either (1) 1000 watter on a rail or (2) seperate 600's.
 
Thanks for the input Be IRIE, Ms.Fox, Pan & Stix.

The one I was looking at transversed the rail every 20 minutes so it does seem the plants on each end would be deprived when the light was on the opposite end. I suspect the plants in the middle would do better.

The marketing hype claims you can increase your grow area by 1.6, without losing anything. Perhaps a 4 foot mover and an increase of my grow area by 50% would be a better approach. I could go from 4 plants to 6 plants, which would be cool.

Certainly adding another light would be better but I'm not prepared for the initial cost and additional energy expense.

I'd be interested in hearing other's experiences with light movers if y'all have any?

:peace:

Harry
 
Just Wondering;
1). Do Light Movers work with the Air vented hoods or Sealed Hoods? Which is best light mover? (quiet & quality)
2.) Are they In & Out ducting or just Out ducting? [guessing in & out if sealed hood or 2 lights that are connected, out if unsealed] correct? If using unsealed does it also work as an exhaust fan for the room?
3.) Is there a Light Tract Mover that will allow More than one light per tract for Low ceilings rooms?
4.) Do they work on sealed lights better?
5.) What are the best ducting methods for vented hoods? (duct size, fan CFM data) how are people running it and routing duct? {How are people moving & retracting the duct as it moves 6' or less}
6.) Best placement /CFM of CanFan(s) for hood ducting on 1 & 2 light setups. {Assuming canfan is what you use} -Heat issues
7.) Best Dual Purpose Ballasts (HPS & MH) suggestions.
8.) Best Vented hoods (sealed & unsealed hoods) and advantages & disadvantages of each.
Additional data: Hydro system, 5’ height at peak angling to 15” over 5.5’ each direction 11’ x 9’ floor footprint. 5’ height with 9’ length of the area . The 11' width goes from 15" at floor to the 5' peak of the Gable Shape attic eve,(triangle)

How many plants will fit in this area & any ideas?
Thanks for suggestions
PEACE
Hans
 
i have a 8' x 13' gro room with 40 plants. i used to use 4-1000s and 2-400s to cover the space. i installed a light mover on 6' track w-2-1000s. i'm 1 week into flower, and at this point, the girls look as healthy as i've ever done. cant speak about yield yet. if you havent seen pit vipers gro you should check it out. he uses a mover and does VERY well. check the link under my signature and you can see my setup. here is a link to pit's gro. check it out. :smokin:

The VipersNest Continuous
 
I use a light rail intelli drive 6 foot to move 2 1000w hps over two side by side beds 4 x 7 ft. I was using 4 stationary 600w lights before. with less wattage im getting about 30% more production and heat is cut way down! they are well worth the investment, especially if your in this for the long haul. sun circles are even better but way more up front investment. example 2 linear 1000wts produce approx 3 1/2-4 lbs a set where 2 1000w on a sun circle gets closer to 4 1/2-5 lbs a set, per each 2 light set. movers also reduce wasted plant space because your light is more evenly dispersed through out the canopy and better penetration to lower areas. good luck be safe may your garden be bug and disease free!
 
Back
Top Bottom