How To Make Concentrated Cannabis Oil

DISCLAIMER:
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Making Concentrated Cannabis Oil Extract:

Prior to making your first batch of concentrated cannabis oil, please read through all instructions thoroughly and completely. Please note that 420 Magazine does not condone the manufacture of Butane Hash Oil, BHO, the more hazardous method of Hash Oil manufacture. The extraction and concentration of Cannabis oil as described in the following process should only be attempted by qualified individuals. An overview of the safety issues is as follows:

  • The process should only be performed with a clear head
  • The use of flammables around open flame should only be performed outdoors
  • Personal Protective Equipment (PPI) should be utilized as appropriate
  • Ensure boil off of the solvent as per the instructions to avoid incomplete removal of alcohol
  • Once complete, do not immediately seal the oil in an airtight environment
  • Do not seal the solvent-wet spent Cannabis in garbage bags without first allowing the solvent to fully evaporate
There are different methods of extracting oils from cannabis and making a concentrate. The method of choice for this tutorial is Quick-Wash Ethanol, aka QWET. This is a popular used method using a food grade solvent/carrier to extract the oils. This tutorial will allow for a person with a serious illness like cancer to make their own medicine. We will use layman’s terms to keep things simple. Mentioning food grade solvents/carriers will be redundant as safety is a main concern. Making cannabis concentrate is something most people can accomplish themselves, and if using high quality bud/flowers results in potent medicine. After a couple of times making the oil you will not only see how easy it is to make, but will start to pick up speed and time in the process while feeling confident in your finished product.

Keep in mind, while food grade solvents/carriers may be safe for ingestion, they are still very flammable and caution should be used! Make sure you do the quick-wash and cook down outside in a well-ventilated area (for example, a covered patio). If there is a wind/breeze find out what direction it is coming from and have the wind to your back. Also use a small fan and have that positioned so it blows in the same direction as the wind/breeze. Doing so will also keep the solvent/carrier vapors blowing away from you. Do not smoke or barbecue while making your concentrated oil. Make sure the patio is swept and washed down so dirt and debris is not blown into your bud/flowers during your quick-wash or while you’re cooking off your solvent. Doing a dry-run practicing your layout, and a mock quick-wash before your first attempt is highly recommended to build your confidence and lesson your chances of making mistakes.

Materials Needed to Make the Concentrated Cannabis Oil:

The materials listed were used to make the concentrated cannabis oil for this tutorial: Rice cooker, portable induction cook-top, 2 quart sauce pan induction use approved, mixing pitcher, mixing stick, (3-4) different size strainers, (3-4) funnels, (3-4) collectors to catch the carrier as it passes through the filters, (2) thermometers, eye dropper, (2) hot pads, measuring cup, high grade bud/flowers, and Everclear 190 proof / 95% proof by volume grain alcohol. The amount of Everclear used varies. For one ounce of bud/flowers one 750ml bottle should be enough, however, getting two would be a smart choice. Whatever unused alcohol is left over can be used at another time. Most equipment in this tutorial is common and can be found around the house.

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Setting Up Your Equipment:

Start off by setting up your rice cooker, mixing pitcher, funnels, filters, strainers, containers, hot pads etc. Put these on a solid table/platform or anything you can use to support the rice cooker and your other equipment solidly. Make sure you position your fan correctly. Have the fan blow air in a slightly "up" position, not blowing down into the rice cooker, while making sure the air is directed towards the back side of your rice cooking apparatus and between your wall plug. This keeps the vapors away from the outlets. If you’re using an extension cord make sure that it is a heavier gauge than the cord on your rice cooking apparatus and keep the fan positioned between the extension cord and rice cooker. Do not plug in your rice cooker until you have completed your quick-wash and it has been filtered and poured into the rice cooker.

Rice Cooker Disclaimer:

Please keep in mind that certain rice cookers may have a safety feature that prevents the unit from operating in the event it is tipped (anti-tip kill switch). You will need to tip the rice cooker when you are swirling the oil in the final stages of cook down, so in order for this to work you will need a rice cooker, or alternative, that doesn't turn off when tipped. For this reason we recommend only using the Cuisinart CFO-3SS fondue set which lacks this feature and would be a viable option should you choose to go that route.

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Preparations Before the Concentrated Oil is Extracted:

This is my preferred method for a faster decarboxylation process. I use a portable induction cook-top, an induction approved two quart pot, and a heavy stainless steel measuring cup so it won’t float on the surface. I modified the measuring cup by drilling a 3/16” hole in the side of the measuring cup opposite of the handle about 1/8” from the top and shortened the handle with a 4 inch hand grinder so it would fit in the pot. Then I used some wire I had, stripped off the shielding a few inches on each end, threaded it through the hole and twisted the wire until it was secured. Then twisted the other end of the wire around the stubby handle.

I used an organic olive oil, found in specialty markets like Trader Joes or health stores like Whole Foods. Place your heavy measuring cup in the empty sauce pan, and pour the light olive oil about 1/8" from the hole you drilled into the side. Have some paper towels handy, remove the cup and wipe off any excess oil and wash with dish soap and warm/hot water and place outside with your other equipment. I also insert a stainless steel washer in the center of the sauce pan. This is done so when removing the cup after the decarboxylation is completed it is much easier to remove and isn't suctioned to the bottom of the sauce pan. The olive oil is heated to 180 degrees and awaits the heavy measuring cup after the cook down of the concentrate is complete. Using this decarboxylation method requires a laser type handheld thermometer and a digital one as a cross reference. Others will suffice like a meat probe, but as a rule have something accurate to cross reference. Ensure that the temperature of the oil in the pan is at 180 degrees before starting the quick-wash process. 180 degrees will be the starting temperature of the decarboxylation process but will finish around 250 degrees (NOT to exceed 250 degrees).

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Preparing For a Quick–wash Using Food-grade Solvents/Carriers:

The purpose of doing a quick-wash is to avoid pulling out most of the chlorophyll and plant alkaloids, as well as the plant waxes and vegetable oil, though small amounts will still be retained. It’s not an absolute oil for the connoisseur, but for medical uses it is an excellent choice. By freezing your bud/flowers and getting your food grade alcohol/carrier down to 0 degrees you have about 6-8 minutes to complete your wash before pulling out previously mentioned bud/flower waste, hence “quick-wash”. Place your solvent/carrier and buds/flowers in the freezer set at 0 degrees for 24 hours. Do not freeze buds/flowers that are wet. An easy test is take a stem and bend it, if it snaps instead of bending its ready. A proper cure should have the same result. Properly drying and freezing the buds will keep excess moisture from the process. To remove any doubt, lay your bud on a cookie sheet covered with a couple of paper towels on top of the buds and air dry for a couple of hours even if the stem snaps.

Begin Making Concentrated Cannabis Oil:

Now let’s begin the quick-wash procedure. Get your mixing pitcher and your stirring tool ready, set up your funnels on top of your catch containers and line with two filters for each funnel. Remember the trick to a quick-wash is to go as fast as you can, so the more funnels and catch containers you have the easier and faster it is. An example is as follows: if you mixed up your first batch of bud/flower during your quick-wash and pour into your funnels with your filters inserted they start draining into your collector containers. When they fill up they take time to drain. By having more, you can start your second wash and when complete you have more empty collectors with funnels and filters ready without the need to wait for the ones you already filled to drain down. Once you master the quick-wash process you will start achieving a higher quality extract. Start off using one ounce of bud/flower as this amount is much easier to do when learning. You can increase the amount you make once you become familiar with the process using this “one ounce” amount. Also you'll be able to more accurately gauge the amount of Everclear needed per ounce.

Remove your frozen bud/flowers, food grade alcohol/ethanol/carrier from the freezer and move to your work-site. Place your bud/flowers into the mixing pitcher. Pour your carrier over the cannabis just enough to lightly wet it and pack it down with your mixing tool. Then add more carrier to a level about an inch over your cannabis and quickly squash the bud/flowers while mixing.

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Be sure not use a lot of force or work too quickly in order to prevent slopping around. Remove your mixing tool, grab a strainer, and position over a funnel that is lined with a filter. Pour the contents of your mixing pitcher through the strainer into your filtered funnels. If any cannabis falls into the strainer after you finished draining the mix pitcher, dump the cannabis back into your mixing pitcher. If you filled one of the funnels about one inch from the top, stop, and move to another filtered funnel set up and continue pouring. Do not try to get it all out as this slows down the quick-wash process.

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Set the mixing pitcher down, pour more carrier over the cannabis (same amount as before, one inch over the top of the cannabis). Repeat the same procedure as the first wash. Drain the pitcher where you left off filling your funnels. Once drained a second time, pour about a quarter cup of the carrier back into the mixing pitcher and do a short final quick-rinse. Pour the remainder through the strainer into the emptiest filter. If that one is filled to 1” from the top move to another one. Take the cannabis in the mixing pitcher and pour/scrape into the biggest strainer. Then make a fist and push down on the cannabis while holding the strainer over a filtered funnel and press down. Keep doing this until nothing more comes out. Practice and experience will improve efficiency.

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Allow the used Cannabis to air dry, then discard the cannabis in a trash bag for disposal. Make sure you tie the bag securely to keep the odor level down. Set aside the mixing pitcher and mixing tool. When the first set of filtered funnels have drained down grab the top corners and pull to the center and keep doing this until the filter is bunched, then gently twist and fold over so when you squeeze them out loose cannabis material does not fall into the drain containers. Keep repeating this until all the filters have been removed and have squeezed out any leftover carrier. Remove all funnels and set them out of the way. Now take a small, fine meshed strainer and hold over the rice cooker. Grab a container with the carrier in it and pour into the fine mesh strainer, as this will pick up any debris that might have fallen in and catch it. Once all the containers have been strained and poured into the rice cooker, set them out of the way of your work area.

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Plug in your rice cooker and turn it to “high”. Now is a good time to quickly pick up your dirty equipment and move it to an area for later cleaning. Also, while the rice cooker is warming up, check to see if your sauce pan inside is still around 180 degrees. This should all be ready to go when the oil is done cooking down and poured into the measuring cup. At this point it will go right into the two quart sauce pan on your induction cook top.

The rice cooker should be heating up and you should be able to see some movement as the solvent starts to cook off. Remember to stand with the breeze/fan to your back so it blows the vapors away from you. Keep observing - you will start to see more rapid movement as the carrier cooks off. Some rice cookers have a high/low switch that kicks down automatically when it gets down to a half cup mark or so. If so, it may not kick back up to “high” until the built in thermostat cools down enough. Not a deal breaker, just takes more time.

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Put on cooking mitts and ensure all bare skin is covered. When the carrier gets down to about a cup, start tilting the rice cooker a little - like you’re panning for gold (swirling the carrier/oil in a easy circular motion). Be careful: swishing too vigorously may make the oil splatter. As it gets down to about a half cup flip the switch on the rice cooker to low so you don't burn the oil.

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If the oil starts smoking, grab a hot pad and carefully lift out the inner bowl with the oil in it. Cool slightly before replacing back into the cooker (which has been switched to the low position). When the solvent doesn't bubble as much (your still slowly swishing and keeping the rice cooker tilted) grab the hot pad and a stainless steel measuring cup, (for one ounce a 1/3 cup measuring size is perfect). Lift out the inner bowl. Hold the measuring cup in one hand, the inner bowl in the other hand, and carefully pour the contents of the bowl into the measuring cup.

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Get as much as you can into the measuring cup, then set the inner bowl back into the rice cooker (still set on low). Then, take your measuring cup and proceed to your sauce pan with the organic olive oil inside warmed to 180 degrees. Set the measuring cup inside on top of the washer.

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You’re done cooking down your concentrated cannabis oil, and the decarboxylation process has begun. Quickly go outside with a hot pad in one hand, and a small silicone spatula in the other, then scrape out as much of the oil that is still warm onto the spatula. Then, using a cuticle pusher scrape off the oil from the spatula onto the inside lip of the measuring cup. It will flow down to the rest of the oil and join the decarboxylation process. Use caution as the oil may still be hot.

Decarboxylation Process:

Cannabis produces phytocannabinoids in a carboxylic acid form that are not orally active at least at the CB-1 receptor sites, because they don’t readily pass the blood brain barrier in their polar form. To enable them to pass the blood brain barrier, they must first be decarboxylated, to remove the COOH carboxyl group of atoms, which exits in the form of H20 and CO2.

Decarboxylation occurs naturally with time and temperature, as a function of drying, but we can shorten the amount of time required considerably by adding more heat. The more heat, the faster it occurs, within reasonable ranges, and in fact occurs spontaneously when the material is burned or vaporized. There is another mechanism at play however, which suggests that we need to control the decarboxylation temperatures carefully. When we heat cannabis to convert the THCA and CBDA into THC and CBD, we are also converting THC to CBN at a faster rate. At about 70% decarboxylation, we actually start converting THC to CBN at a faster rate than we are converting THCA to THC, after about 70% decarboxylation, the levels of THC actually start to fall sharply. That of course means that the CBN also begins to rise and the medication is becoming more sedative.

Once the measuring cup with concentrated oil is placed into the sauce pan, the temperature should be 180 degrees. Observe how the concentrated oil reacts. If it starts to bubble immediately it’s burning off any excess carrier. If it doesn't start to bubble, turn it up to 190 degrees. Pay attention and do not leave the decarboxylation process. When it starts to bubble and the bubbles are big and more defined the decarboxylation process has begun.

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When the bubbles start tapering down in size turn the temperature up another 10 degrees. Keep bumping up the temperature by 10 degrees until the 250 degree mark has been reached. Depending on the ambient temperature inside, you might not achieve 250 degrees if no bubbles are present and there is no movement in the measuring cup. At which point, the decarboxylation process is complete.

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NEVER EXCEED 250 degrees! Do not touch the sauce pan when removing the measuring cup as it is hot. Use hot mitts to remove the measuring cup, Using caution not to tilt the measuring cup and accidentally spill your concentrate out. I did not use hot mitts because they were over-sized and blocked the view of the oil in this tutorial. However, I would always otherwise do so to prevent any danger of burning my hands. Think safety at all times.

Remove the measuring cup and place on a couple of cotton terry cloth towels to absorb some of the oil off the bottom of the cup. Sit the measuring cup on the counter, then take the terry-cloth towels, fold in half, and set the measuring cup down using the edge of the hot pad to angle the measuring cup. The cannabis concentrated oil is now ready to put in a oral syringe/storage container.

While the oil is still hot from the decarboxylation and now tilted on the terry cloth towels, it is the time to suck it up with a oral syringe. Before you start, quickly pull back on the syringe plunger as this frees up the gaskets so when you start pulling up the oil it is a much smoother process. As you pull up the oil move the syringe slightly from side to side, making sure the tip is in the oil and very slightly angled.

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Towards the bottom of the measuring cup, as the oil gets low, you might get a mixture of oil and air creating little bubbles. I set the oral syringe down with the tip facing up on the counter with no cap overnight. If the air bubbles in the oral syringe have not dissipated I take a hair dryer on low and keep the air on the bubbles until they dissipate completely. You’re not going to be able to get it all in the syringe. That's fine, as you can leave it in the measuring cup to cool. Later, you can use your cuticle pusher to scrape off doses, make oilers, add some coconut oil and make a really potent salve for cuts, burns, skin cancer and a plethora of other topical applications.

Storing Concentrated Cannabis Oil:

Stored correctly, many have stated that concentrated cannabis oil should last up to 5 years. I've never stored the concentrate for that long so I cannot verify this personally. I keep mine in oral syringes with the cap on tight and place those in a container that has been vacuumed sealed. A safe is an excellent place that is cool, dark and secure. The syringes may also be placed in a dark container and refrigerated. Do not freeze!

Optional Decarboxylation Process:

This decarboxylation process is done using a plate warmer that has been plugged in and preheated before you make your concentrated oil. The decarboxylation process has taken me anywhere from 30 minutes (ambient temperature was 95 degrees) to over 11 hours using a plate warmer (ambient temperature was 60 degrees inside). On average, I would say the plate warmer has typically taken me three to five hours. Remember, the process isn't done until the oil has completely stopped moving with NO BUBBLES.

Keep in mind that when you first put your measuring cup on the plate warmer, and the oil heats up, the initial bubbling starts burning off the alcohol first when the temperature of the concentrated oil gets around 180 degrees. Then, it settles down and the bubbles become more defined in appearance. As in the earlier method, the same applies using the food warmer. The bubbles start off bigger and later get smaller. When there are no bubbles and the concentrated oil stops moving it is ready to store in an oral syringe/container. It should be noted, you can choose how long you want the decarboxylation process to go before you stop it. When the bubbles are large and start to get smaller the peak THC level has been reached. As they get smaller, the CBD/CBN start to develop and when decarboxylated to the point of no bubbling or movement it is completely done. Having no more bubbles or movement is my choice for full medical value cannabis concentrated oil.

If you decide to stop the decarboxylation process at peak THC, then you need to purge any alcohol left in the concentrate. For our purposes, just unplug the plate warmer, set up a small fan turned on low, and have the breeze flow over the cup for 20-30 minutes. The heat from the plate warmer keeps the oil warm enough after it is unplugged for the grain alcohol to dissipate. Any trace elements left over should be minute and safe to consume. Again, NEVER GO OVER 250 degrees using any heat platform for your decarboxylation process! Using a food warmer for the decarboxylation process does not need the attention of the double boiler method. Do a walk by every 30 minutes to check the size of the bubbles. When they get real small check every 15 minutes until movement has stopped completely.

Optional Equipment:

Although a rice cooker does the job efficiently there are some other more expensive options for those who prefer something more versatile with temperature settings. The pictures of these items are displayed along with what items they would replace. For bigger batches you will need bigger funnels, bigger filters and bigger catch containers. I only do a max of a quarter pound at one time to keep the quick-wash efficient using the equipment in this tutorial. I've have done up to a pound in one day but still did the process using a quarter pound at a time. For these larger amounts, I use the plate warmer for the decarboxylation process because it doesn't need as much tending as the double boiler method does. After each quarter pound, I took the measuring cup (half cup size) with the concentrate inside after the cook down and added to the other measuring cup already on the food warmer. These are kept in order after each cook down process and as they end the decarboxylation process. When the first measuring cup has completed the decarboxylation process it is removed and ready to go into an oral syringe. As each batch completes the decarboxylation process repeat again until done.



Price of the Cuisinart CFO-3SS Electric Fondue Set is approximately $60.00 and would be an upgrade to the rice cooker. It has much better heat control. Another one could be used for the double boiler process during decarboxylation.



Aroma rice cooker was $30.00 on sale. I've been using mine for about 2 years.


Waring Pro WT90B 400-Watt Stainless-Steel Warming Tray. Cost is approximately $50.00 and has adjustable heat settings. This is a middle of the road one. More expensive units run around $100.00 and have higher wattage heat settings.



NuWave Portable Induction Cook-top. Important mention, this induction cook-top has preset temperature settings but can be adjusted in ten degree increments, which is a important feature during the decarboxylation process. The one I have has preset temperature settings only and has to be closely monitored when going up to the next preset. It was gifted, as I wouldn't of selected this particular model. I have the NuWave ordered and bought it at the "2 for 1" price. Once you pay the shipping and handling, for the pair, it came out to around $200.00. It has mixed reviews, but keep in mind they sell a lot of them. The extra's that come with them are shipped separately. I have a back up if one fails. These are not a big size - an a 8" sauce pan is the maximum size - but is all you need for the decarboxylation process. You'll need to make sure the sauce pan is induction use approved.


This Vollrath 59500P Mirage Pro Countertop Induction Range, 14-Inch portable induction cook-top would be my hands down favorite despite the price of over $420.00. It's large, but the feature that really stands out is an adjustable knob for heat settings. Definitely on my want list. Shop for your best price.



This Waring Pro Portable Burner is budget priced but has excellent reviews. Although it doesn't display the temperature, it is adjustable. Simply turn the adjustable rheostat and check your temperature with your meters and keep notes. Any steel sauce pan would work, magnetic or not. Variable rheostat would be excellent for decarboxylation process at an affordable price.

There are many choices to choose from. From larger funnels, specialty size filters with different micron specs, straining screens, collectors, to full-blown laboratory equipment. These are only recommendations. Your selection decisions are your choice and yours alone.

This completes Making the Concentrated Cannabis Oil.

This tutorial is for education purposes only. Misuse of this information and not following safety precautions is your responsibility and yours alone.


Written by Motoco 1982
Edited by XLR8
 
Material List for Making Concentrated Cannabis Oil Extract

Note:
We are including this information for example purposes, and including both a “budget” and an “upgraded” list of materials. While either materials list will work to produce high quality medicine, the quantity and quality may be slightly improved depending on the materials used. Be sure that if you substitute that you will be able to provide the same results. Please read all of the manufacturer’s operating instructions and safety precautions before using. 420 Magazine assumes no responsibility.

Budget Material List:

1. Rice Cooker: Aroma (6 cup capacity). It has a solid stainless steel removable bowl which has no aluminum and/or Teflon. Noteworthy: for approximately $10.00 more you can get a 14 cup capacity with removable stainless steel bowl, more than doubling the capacity. $38.00 – 50.00.

Aroma 6 Cup Rice Cooker
14 Cup Rice Cooker SS - Rakuten.com

2. Warming Tray: Used for the easiest decarboxylation process. $30.00 – 60.00

OVENTE Electric Warming Tray
WaringPro WT90B Warming Tray - Rakuten.com

2a. Optional Decarboxylation Process Equipment: NuWave induction portable cook-top. Approximately $100.00.
Precision Nuwave2 Portable Induction Cooktop

3. Digital Thermometer: Etekcity laser digital thermometer $19.99

Etekcity Infrared Thermometer
CEN-TECH Multimeter Infrared Thermometer - Buya

4. Strainers: Stainless Steel Strainers: Set of 3 mixed sizes. $10.00

Long Handled Mesh Strainers (Set of 3)

5. Funnels: Stainless steel wide mouth funnels. (3) needed $12.00 x 3 = $36.00

Stainless Wide-Mouth Funnels

6. Pitchers: Glass pitcher for mixing solvent/flowers. $15.00

Libbey Glass 90 Ounce Cantina Pitcher

7. Vases: Mixed variety. These are used as collectors when the mixing pitcher is poured into the funnels. Just make sure the top diameter is smaller than 5.5” (the diameter of the funnels). Normally found around the house. They range from $10.00 - 20.00 at floral shops.

8. Unbleached Coffee Filters: Size #4 (fits the funnels mentioned). Around $5.00

9. Stirring Stick: Can be any piece of wood like Douglas fir. Size used is 1 ½” x 11/2” x 14” long. Sand the ends to remove any sharp burrs and make sure its untreated wood with no chemicals added (ask for help at store if needed)! Can be found at any building materials store.

10. Eye Dropper: In many cases this is a common household item. Used in case the oil gets too hot and to help dissipate the solvent/carrier faster (drops of water). I've not typically needed this, but I do keep one on hand just in case. Can be purchased at stores selling personal/hygiene/health products. $2.00-3.00

11. Hot Pad Gloves: Needed while handling equipment that is hot. Can be found anywhere that kitchen appliances are sold. Around $10.00


Upgraded Material List:

1. Fondue Maker: Cuisinart. May be more expensive than a rice cooker, but typically has a better range of heat control. It can be used as a double boiler set-up for the decarboxylation process. $60.00.

Cuisinart Electric Fondue Set

2. Extra Burner: Waring Pro extra burner. A great back up in case it’s needed or use as a first choice for the decarboxylation process. Keep in mind it has an adjustable rheostat with no read out so your adjustments will need to be monitored with your thermometers. $60

Waring Pro Brushed Stainless Steel Electric Burner with Single Port

3. Thermometer/Thermocouple: The Control Company. Professional grade, and comes with an accuracy certificate. Starting at $143.00

Traceable Total Range Thermometer - The Control Company

4. Portable Induction Cook-top: Vollrath "Mirage Pro". With an adjustable rheostat and digital readout, it would be my top pick for a portable induction cook-top. $436.00

Vollrath Mirage Pro 59500P Countertop Induction Cooker

5. Stainless Steel Beakers: This one is a 2 quart capacity. Cost is $102.00. Used for catching the solvent/carrier that drains down through the funnels. Also can be used as an more durable option mixing container. Make sure the diameter is less than that of your funnels.

Stainless Steel Pouring Beaker (2 qt.) - Cole-Parmer

6. Large Funnels: Stainless steel 64 oz. funnel. $63.00 used for larger capacities.

Stainless Steel Funnel (64 oz.)

7. Large Filters: Bunn large paper filters. $15.00

BUNN Paper Filters

Note: These selections were provided as an example/reference only.

Written by Motoco 1982
Edited by XLR8
 
Cannabis Oil Medicine Dosing Tutorial

Mission Statement:


This OPINION is a guide for people who have run out of all traditional medical options for cancer or other serious illness, have heard of concentrated cannabis oil and its healing properties, and want to treat themselves or a loved one in a safe manner. These opinions are expressed for humanitarian reasons only.

Scope:

The healing process can be overwhelming when people become seriously ill. Consider having a family member or friend help you with this process, as they may be more capable of focusing on the task at hand without the added stress and anxiety that comes with being ill. Your choice is your own regarding what brands, items and materials you choose. Once you start healing, you may look back and think “that was easy” and pay it forward to help others.

What you need to start with:

• Concentrated Cannabis Oil (aka Hash Oil/Honey Oil/RSO-Rick Simpsons Oil). Other oils are not applicable for tacking properly. You alone are responsible to know the potency and quality of the concentrated cannabis oil you’re using for treatment.

• Oral syringes with caps for storage - for ease of application (applied to finger). They are marked with indicators that are used as reference points to assist with increasing dosage sizes as needed.

• A stainless steel cuticle pusher that is flat on both ends. It is essential for removing a dose that's too large from your finger, and has many other uses in the making of concentrated cannabis oil.

• A plate warmer/coffee mug warmer can be used when adding thinners such as organic grape seed or coconut oil, or the blending and mixing of other strains of concentrated cannabis oil that may need adjustment. A hair dryer with a low heat and fan setting is recommended to warm up the concentrated oil on your index finger before application (when the concentrate is cold). Rinsing your mouth out with ice water gets your gums cold, and the concentrated oil adheres easier to the gums if they are colder than the oil. Pay attention when it's warm, as the oil comes out much faster.

• If making your own cannabis concentrate use only the safest legal solvent to make the cannabis concentrated oil. Food grade solvents/carriers meet these safety precautions and are safe for consumption (search the internet for food grade alcohol/ethanol solvents). These may or may not be legal in your state, and your acquisition of these are solely your decision. Also, please keep in mind that food grade solvents/carriers, while safe for consumption, are still very flammable! Caution, safety and common sense should be used.

• While there are many informative videos and articles available, most have been edited so they can be more easily read. Unfortunately, some of the edited information is vague and misleading. Confusion is why cannabis is a Class 1 drug. If these opinions are followed correctly your journey to heal will begin in a safe non-euphoria environment while continuing your lifestyle. For those who are bed ridden or weak, this may improve your health. Ideally, you will be up and about living normal life again while healing. If it is too late for treatment your quality of life may be vastly improved with minimal pain, so that you can pass in a humane way instead of feeling lethargic and drugged.

• Some of the best advice you can receive is have a positive outlook. Do not fear the unknown. Take charge, have patience, don’t second guess what is happening, and let the concentrated cannabis oil do its work. If you have an issue, correct it and continue healing. Read, read and read again.

Tacking procedure:

Take a portion about the size of a 1/4 grain of short rice and apply it on one of your index fingers. Spread the oil on your index finger, as this takes the drop shape and flattens it on your finger (which is much easier to control while applying on the gums). A cuticle pusher is an excellent tool for this.

Place your index finger between your gum and cheek with the concentrate towards your gum. Then hold against the gum without moving for as long as it takes to tack/stick/adhere to your gums. Then, slightly moving your finger in a circular or side to side fashion, rub until you feel it grab to your gum. Do not proceed until it adheres to the gums. Remove your finger and inspect where the rest of the concentrate has moved. Apply right next to your first tacky spot, and keep repeating using the same method. Do this until all the oil is gone. A light film will be left on your finger; warmed with a hair dryer, it can be used as a topical application for cuts, bruises, pimples, burns, etc. The illustration below is an example of where to apply tacks to your bottom gum. Keep in mind, this is just an example, and any area on your bottom gum can be used. If you use dentures on your bottom row of teeth, remove them and tack per instructions before putting the dentures back in.

420-magazine-gums-dosing.jpg

Note: If using a daytime oil and a nighttime oil keep those tack spots separate. Keep your daytime tacks on one side of your bottom gum and your nighttime on the other side. Some people prefer a more “uplifting” strain for their daytime oil, and a more sedative oil for nighttime usage. As an example: if you put your nighttime tack on your daytime tack you will be UP.

420-magazine-cannabis-oil-syringe.jpg

Concentrated Cannabis Oil is a powerful, potent medicine and should be respected as such. Always start off using small amounts, then build your way up to the amount required to kill cancer (1 gram total per day). It should take approximately 5 weeks to achieve 1 gram per day. As your dose amounts increase, be cautious and divide that amount up into small doses until gone. Applying more frequently during the course of a day keeps the medication constant and level in your system, and eliminates high-low spikes. Taking a little extra time for correct application is the smart choice for safety. If you want to use for preventive maintenance or wellness use an amount the size of one grain of rice per day.

Tips on using Concentrated Cannabis Oil:

It takes a time for the oil to get fully regulated in your system. Be patient, as everyone’s system and makeup is slightly different. It typically takes 3-5 days on average. This method of tacking, if done properly, should provide no euphoric “high”. Many think it is not working and start taking more than advised, resulting in feelings of euphoria at unexpected times. Once you start your regiment on concentrated oil you will begin to notice small changes. Before long you should feel healthier and a greater sense of wellness.

Be sure to start your tacking when at the beginning of your day. Eat breakfast first, brush your teeth, rinse your mouth out, then apply your first tack of the day. Always take your medication after you eat, and follow the same procedure of cleaning and rinsing your mouth out before tacking. This prevents the concentrate from getting on food particles stuck in your teeth and washing down to your stomach, possibly resulting in an unexpected euphoria.

When building up your regimen with concentrated cannabis oil, increase how many times you take your medication per day. Let’s say you worked up to a grain of rice, and now you want to increase to a grain and half. Your regimen for a grain of rice was two times a day. You'll now want to increase the applications to three times a day. If you increase the amount to two grains of rice you would increase your applications to four times a day, etc. Once you achieve a gram of concentrated oil a day, you would optimally apply eight to ten times throughout the day. Using this example ensures you maintain control, and allows your body to be regulated without having low or high spikes. The process should become easier with experience.

Pay attention to how your body feels. If you feel nauseous, in most cases you need to simply eat a snack and drink some water. It should go away quickly. If left untreated, anxiety may set in. A simple snack or some water should help you feel better. If you are feeling a little off, you can add a tiny little booster tack. Boosters do not change your tacking regimen or the amount of your medication. Boosters shouldn't be needed often, but are worth considering in cases of physical exertion or when you feel a little more tired than usual. A good rule of thumb is to first eat and drink. If that does not work take a booster application.

When using concentrated cannabis oil you must stay hydrated with water. Even if you’re not doing anything, your body’s metabolism is raised using daytime oil. Always keep water around you. A good reminder is when you’re done urinating, drink water immediately after.

Pay close attention when using Concentrated Cannabis Oil in combination with prescribed blood pressure, pain and sleeping medications. Always stay hydrated, and be sure to maintain a healthy diet.

THERE ARE NO SUBSTITUTES FOR SAFETY AND READING INSTRUCTIONS CORRECTLY!

NOTE: This information is provided for educational purposes only. We bear no responsibility if this information is misused.

Many thanks to 420 Magazine for allowing the avenue for awareness!


Written by @420 Motoco
Edited by @Xlr8
 
Very nice Motoco. Good instruction and a very complete list of things a person needs. :thumb: great way to get the essences of our beloved herb. I have a friend that is making spirits and is starting to supply me with the strong (140) that he get each time he distills. I'm getting ready to try it to see how it turns out. I will take it to a lab to see how it's quality is. Have a good
 
The best and most thorough instructions yet. Thanks again Moto, I will be graduating from the edibles with my first harvest for sure now :)
:peace:
 
It's just so cool that finally safe methods of making cannabis medicines are being published. There is no excuse for sub-standard methods and this guide will go a long way towards saving many lives all over the globe.
 
Well stated and exactly the purpose of these tutorials. :high-five:

It's just so cool that finally safe methods of making cannabis medicines are being published. There is no excuse for sub-standard methods and this guide will go a long way towards saving many lives all over the globe.
 
Its a policy set in place to help protect members as well as others from many unknowns. PM's can be sent after 50 posts. Never give out you're email addy as a heads up. You never know who,what, or the intentions people have. If it is about a serious medical condition or related information nobody knows who you are personally. Ask away. If it is a real personal health issue you don't want to discuss, you have to follow forum guidelines and wait. Hope this helps.
 
HI Motoco.

I posted earlier this week on the dosing thread and have a question about the decarboxylation process.

First, your tutorial is excellent and the time and energy you devote to educate us is most appreciated. Thank you.

In your tutorial, you give 2 options to use after the oil is removed from the rice cooker: (1) hot oil bath and (2) plate warmer. For some reason, I am somewhat uncomfortable with the hot oil bath so I am looking at option 2. As I'm sure you know, the Rick Simpson video tells you to use a coffee warmer although I have seen a recent post on his FB page advising one to put the oil in an oven for about an hour at 110C/230F. There are also more and more posts/forums that suggest that you put the oil in the oven afterwards. Not clear if this is after or in lieu of the coffee warmer...?

I have a couple of questions:

Is decarboxylation absolutely accomplished when the oil stops bubbling?
If you look at this graph -

decarboxylationgraph.jpg


- which shows the temp/time needed to decarboxylate the oil, it appears that very little decarboxylation can occur when the oil is in the rice cooker. It is not in there that long and since the rice cooker can't go above 212F, the decarboxylation that happens in the rice cooker is probably minimal. So, you have to rely on the oil bath/warming plate/coffee warmer. Obviously, we are not in a lab environment and so we can only do so much to monitor and control temps. Here's my question - regardless of method used to heat the oil after the rice cooker, does full decar---ylation occur when all bubbles stop? Is that a fact?

I think my source of confusion here is that RS video says you use the coffee warmer to remove any extra solvent. Nothing is said about decarboxylation. Moreover, while I've used and infrared thermometer to test the surface temperature of the coffee warmer and it got pretty hot (250F and up), there is no way that heat is being transferred to the oil because when i put a cup of water on the coffee warmer, it does not boil...more like a luke warm state. I guess that's good because you don't want to overheat it either but that leaves me in limbo. It seems if left long enough on any heat source, the oil will eventually decarboxylate. But, it also seems that too much heat will cause the degradation of the THC which you don't want. Question is how much heat and how much time?

I guess what I'm really trying to understand is: regardless of the heat source/method used on the oil after the rice cooker, is the key to decarboxylation that the bubbles stop? Am I looking just for the big bubbles only to stop? I've read that this is "max" decarb and then the THC begins to degrade to CBN. Basically, I am really confused about this step of the process and how to make sure the oil is most medicinally potent. Can you expound on this topic.

Thoughts on using an oven to finish oil - 1 hour at 230F
What are your thoughts on simply putting the oil in the oven for 1 hour at 230F immediately after the rice cooker stage? I only ask because for a newbie like me these are very precise and specific instructions that anyone can follow. One doesn't have to worry about all of the bubbles being gone, some of the bubbles being gone, the right bubbles being gone, etc. When you don't know what you're doing (like me) and don't fully understand the science behind it, it is very daunting to try to use your "judgment" especially with everything that's at stake.

Your input and thoughts are greatly appreciated.
 
Hi help4dad,

So many different opinions on the how too's. I have not read into using the oven process you mentioned for the decarboxylation process. Methods improve, simpler processes, etc. Rick Simpson has been doing this a long time with success. I'm sure from when he first started using and making the concentrate a lot of improvements have been made since using a coffee warmer as a decarboxylation process. I could see where the constant ambient temperature would be a huge plus inside the oven. I was just on Rick Simpsons FB page for the first time since watching 'Run From the Cure' over 2 years ago. Since that time I've been healing myself as well as others in the community. I didn't see the oven decarboxylation method you referred to but I am short on time today. I will investigate further.

I appreciate you're will to research and explore for knowledge. I personally believe in what Rick Simpson states. Comparing what he knew back at the start of his journey to now he has probably changed quite a few things and has gained boat loads of new knowledge. One basic thing has not changed, how the concentrated healing properties work. That being said if he has suggested this method of decarboxylation in the oven is easier and safer then it would be something to look into. When I have more time I will look into this asap.

I'll add more to you're post when I get some more free time.

Thank you for researching this and posting!
 
Hi help4dad,

So many different opinions on the how too's. I have not read into using the oven process you mentioned for the decarboxylation process. Methods improve, simpler processes, etc. Rick Simpson has been doing this a long time with success. I'm sure from when he first started using and making the concentrate a lot of improvements have been made since using a coffee warmer as a decarboxylation process. I could see where the constant ambient temperature would be a huge plus inside the oven. I was just on Rick Simpsons FB page for the first time since watching 'Run From the Cure' over 2 years ago. Since that time I've been healing myself as well as others in the community. I didn't see the oven decarboxylation method you referred to but I am short on time today. I will investigate further.

I appreciate you're will to research and explore for knowledge. I personally believe in what Rick Simpson states. Comparing what he knew back at the start of his journey to now he has probably changed quite a few things and has gained boat loads of new knowledge. One basic thing has not changed, how the concentrated healing properties work. That being said if he has suggested this method of decarboxylation in the oven is easier and safer then it would be something to look into. When I have more time I will look into this asap.

I'll add more to you're post when I get some more free time.

Thank you for researching this and posting!

Motoco - sorry I missed this post...I didn't get an email and forgot to refresh the page.

In any event, here is the post on RS FB about the oven -
"The most potent oil I have tested so far had 95.8% THC. That's already pretty good!" Lumír Hanuš, Hebrew University in Jerusalem, Israel, private conversation with Jindrich Bayer, September 30th, 2012
-- The most potent oil reported to me personally so far was 97.6% THC and extremely potent and sedative. I have seen reports of other cannabis extracts with 97-98% THC, too.
So, oils with 95-98% THC can be produced if the instructions are followed. The most important thing for the success is proper starting material (extremely potent and sedative, preferably with 20% THC or more) and a good solvent which will not strip plant materials - we recommend pure light naphtha in Canada.
Do not crush the starting material before you process it and filter the oil solvent mix through coffee filters carefully.
Then boil the solvent off and add a few drops of water before the end of the boil off process to remove terpenes and solvent residue.
Then you can put the oil in a stainless steel cup and put it in an oven set at 110°C for about an hour to make sure that the oil is properly decarboxylated and that possible solvent residue is removed.
If you do that, you should achieve the same results as we do. We follow the same instructions, too. Best wishes to everyone. JB


Take a look and let me know your thoughts. I also am wondering if you should do the oven instead of the coffee warmer or in addition to?

Another question - by definition, is the oil done decarboxylating when it stops bubbling completely? When the big bubbles stop? Any insight on the science you may have on this would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.
 
Hi help4dad,

Hope you're father is feeling better!

Thank you for the info. I was looking for an tutorial, lol. I thought this was something new/updated method. I've known this but thought it was for a different application other than cannabis concentrated oil. The reason why I have never tried this method (IMHO) is through the complete process of making the concentrated oil the only time I leave any stage unattended is when the rice cooker is first plugged in with the solvent/extracts poured inside. Just to clear some of the equipment that is no longer needed out of the way. When the decarbing begins I pay close attention from the start to the finish. Paying closer attention if using the double boiler method. If I want the oil to be peak THC I would remove the oil cup from the hot oil bath when the bubbles are big. If looking for more CBD & CBN to develop mid to smaller bubbles. If I want full couch lock wait until the bubbles stop completely. It all depends on what condition I'm making the medicine for. Cancer, PTSD/depression, anxiety/panic attacks, chronic pain, the list goes on. I am explaining this in a little more detail to answer both questions at once. Cancer as a primary example; I would remove the oil (after any carrier is burned off) right after the bubbles are big. Then I would make a high CBD strain of concentrate and when going through the decarbing process (double boiler) I would remove the oil cup when the bubbles have completely stopped for max cbd, cbn for shrinking any tumors and removing any inflammation. So as an example two strains for cancer two different decarbing processes. I would like to mention the double boiler decarbing process only takes from 15-30 minutes depending on the ambient temperature inside (cold/hot). The process sometimes is quicker or shorter, I do not see that kind of control using the oven decarbing method. Also an honorable mention is 'out of sight-out of mind' in the oven (especially if the person with cancer doesn't have someone else to help, is tired and naps). Then when removing the oil cup from the oven you accidently touch a hot rack and spill. You mentioned that you thought it would be unsafe using the double boiler method? If you have a large washer in the oil bath pan and a long handle on the oil cup it is very easily controlled. Especially with a tight fitting hot pad glove.

This is an advantage also using food grade carriers. If you remove the oil cup right after 'big bubbles' for max thc content are you completely sure if using naphtha light all the chems are removed? In my opinion you would have to do a vacuum purge to make sure. With food grade carrier like ethanol/grain alcohol you could simply put it on something right around 110 degrees and have a fan on low blowing a breeze over the cup (slightly pointing up) for 20 minutes or until its dissipated/evaporated. Knowing its safe if consumed.

Only insight I have is what I've learned from trusted sites. You have read them also. Best word of advice I have is practice different techniques and judge for yourself. Doing this you will be able to see for yourself to gain the knowledge you seek. You will find out it seems there is never concise information, practice will show you this. People have different opinions and methods. Have you checked out skunk pharms decarbing process? Read it to the end and it explains pretty much what I have said. It has all the charts, etc.

I hope I have clarified some things. Why I do not prefer the oven decarbing method. That being said whatever choice you decide is what is best for you. Only experience will give you 'true' answers.

BTW did you get your Dad some high cbd strain? Shrinking the tumors and removing any inflammation in the brain has a huge healing factor with the OG Kush oil you have. Is he taking the concentrate correctly? No euphoric? Give him my best regards please.

Motoco
 
I gave a friend a gram of my indica oil to try. He pulled one hit out of an oil pipe and dam near hit the ground. Said he was stoned for 4 hours and then hit it again. Had to sit down and didn't get up for hours. He had never ever had anything like it. I've never had it tested but I think I will now. I need to get the harleguin oil test anyway so might as well do the Pakistan Chitral Kush/Afghani Bullrider cross done also.
 
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