1st Grow Bomb Bagweed

[stully]

magic crystal #1

more magic crystal

and we have a beaster

maggic #3

magic#4

Jan Brady(she's the middle child)just some middies bagseed

jan from the side

un-name(any ideas?) she's more mids

un-named middy side shot

Lil Kim in her new pot

side shot of kim

kinda blury, but its Kim

[stully]

Originally Posted by SouthernOnt

beasters better not be slang for BC bud

whats BC bud?

[stully]

does anybody see the tips of kims top leaves? They have a bright yellow tip(very small) what is this???

[Propa Gator]

It's tough to eat your rooster after you name him. Half your babies are likely boys, how are you gonna show? Lookin green and good. I don't see any spot on whats her name. She'll do good if she don't bust balls.

[stully]

balls suck! Look at the 3rd pic from the bottom. top set of leaves. The very tip is a little yellow. This has just com eon like the last 2-3 days. Also I would eat my dog if it was as sweet as MJ.

[Propa Gator]

Other growers call those tips nute burn, I call them normal. Plain water next quench. Don't eat your dog unless he eats your garden.

[GMT1975A]

Stully, looking great bro! Are you using 2700k bulbs or 6500k? I have 7 of the 100watt - 6500k bulbs in the grow area and a mix of 3 - 100 watt-6500k bulbs and 4 - 150 watt-2700k bulbs in the germination area. I have wanted to go to 400 watt HPS in the veg area and eliminate the 7 cfl's but my girlfriend is afraid of the $ increase for electrical use. I would also have to change the ventilation a bit to deal with the additional heat. Good luck on your gro bro!, I will being following it daily!

[Propa Gator]

GMT, "100" watt cfls are really 27w or so right? That larger number is a sales gimick aimed at people who don't know but should replace incandecents. I've never heard of anybody except myself dumb enough to try to grow with incandecent dimwatts. Call them what they are, like 19w, 23w, 27w, 42w ect. the color temp in K for Kelvin is less significant. 6500 K are a hard blue/white good for veg, 2700 or so K are 'warmer' on the eye and used for bloom. Do the power numbers, working backwards from your bill and try to persuade your GF, but remember rule one: she's always right. In case she messes up there is rule two which refers back to rule one. I've grown medicine with 250w HPS, and am doing so right now. CFLs are OK for seedlings, cuttings to root and veg growth. HPS put out a lot more light for the power used than CFL, and you're nearly at that level. My cabs are 2 x 2.5 x6ft and 250w works.

[munki]

Yeah, propa is on the right track here. Wattage is referring the the input energy which your plants could really care less about. They want those lumens and in the right frequencies (light colors). Take a look at this helpful little picture.



It shows the situation you are in. Note the CFLs shown here are the actual wattage they use, not the "wattage equivalent" that is the larger number on most CFL packaging. So, to get the equivalent lumen output of the HPS, you need 662.5 watts of energy input into CFL's. That is 65.6% more energy used to get the same amount of light output. Now there are other things to consider like the type of light output. HPS has a poor color rendering index as it does not put out much in the higher frequency light like blues so isn't best suited to vegetative growth though can be somewhat compensated for if you use a more expensive HPS bulb like a Hortilux. But, for "bang (light) for you buck (electricity cost)", the HPS is the way to go.

Your major challenge with HPS will be heat control most likely.

[Propa Gator]

CFLs have internal ballasts. Heat stays with the bulb. Each small cfl have small heat, but it adds up. HPS can (and should) have ballast remote where heat is better dealt with. Total heat is not the same as temperature.

[stully]

Hey everybody thanks for stopping bye great discusions and great info coming out. GMT not sure my color temp threw the package away. I do have a 400w HPS and have some problems moving the heat out of the room, which will be solved soon enough, but they do def throw some heat out, I kinda think I will get a MH for next time around veggin. They seem to grow slow under HPS. My bulb however is high performance. It is 10% brighter then normal HPS, with increased violet and blue spectrum, also it creates a more correct balance of red and blue/violet for increased photosynthesis. 55,000 lumens. And to be perfectly honest with you I haven't noticed any difference in electric consumption. Once again, thanks everybody for stopping by.

[Pericodaking]

^Dude, just go with the hps, especially if you w=have a 400w putting out 55,000 lumens throw that bad boy up and make a DIY air remover/scrubber

[munki]

Well it sounds like you have one of those color corrected, high output bulbs already so stick with that. There have been many successful grows done with just that. If your ballast is switchable, you can hook up a MH without issue. Otherwise, you will need to get a conversion bulb. If money is tight as it is with most of us, put the money into ventilation and maybe an aircooled hood or cooltube. You could then lower that light closer to the plants and vastly improve the light density. This will effectively get more of the light output from the bulb onto the leaves without burning them.

[stully]

Oh, the vent and cooltube is def coming but for the week I got family here, it is too short notice and I will have to go with the CFL's. Hopefully wednesday night I can fire my light bach up. I really do have to do some research on a diy cool tube. Maybe even a DIY carbon scrubber(it's getting dank and the plants r still so small). I found a 150 cfm inline with a scrubber for 129.00 by the time I invest my time and buy the supplies it would prolly be just as well to buy this set-up. Anybody know how many amps a 4" 150 cfm fan pulls?

[stully]

Anybody know a good DIY thread for a cool tube?