Deep Water Culture Tutorial, SH Kit & DIY

Preface,
This is NOT a Grow-Journal. It is a step by step HOW - TO, or a TUTORIAL.
I hope to share a very detailed tutorial here, with many pics, on growing a pound of dried, closely manicured indica buds in a closet. I will use a store bought hydroponic KIT and also use a DIY 5 gallon bucket.
I hope to explain every little thing I do in easy terms, simplified terms, precise details, with photos, and I am dedicating this thread to all the newbies that really want to learn and do not mind reading.
If you want to help and contribute, especially the experienced and knowlegable Deep Water Culture, I welcome helpful advice. If I, for example, say HID, and forget to tell what HID means or stands for, or if I say CFL, and fail to tell what the letters CFL stands for, I would very much appreciate a heads up IN A PM OR ON A DIFFERENT THREAD. I welcome help. I do not welcome arguements, or "why don't you just blah, blah, blah".
Again, I want to say, I am trying to do this for the first time grower, the so-called newbie here. I will try and do everything the SIMPLE way, and NOT the EXPENSIVE High-Tech way a botanist or horticulturalist or a hydroponic scientist does it.
IN NO WAY AM I STATING THAT I AM DOING IT THE ABSOLUTE BEST WAY. Many more knowlegable growers are here that know a better way. I'll be showing a grow with CFLs, Compact Fluorescent Lights, but I am not saying that is BEST. I AM saying it is better for the first time grower on a limited budget, who can not afford to handle the HEAT of hotter lights, the EXPENSE OF VENTING, and does not have access to a Hydro store or ordering from the Internet. Everything I show here, you can get from Walmart, Lowes, HomeDepot, PetSmart, Targets, and the local hardware store.

I 'll be off to a slow start here. I don't rush into anything.

I'll be uploading pics for a while now.

IT WILL BE A WEEK BEFORE I CAN ANSWER QUESTIONS HERE.
IF YOU ASK ME QUESTIONS HERE, THEY MAY NOT GET ANSWERED.
PLEASE DO NOT HI-JACK THIS TUTORIAL.
PLEASE DO NOT POST YOUR GROW HERE.
 
Re: Roseman's Deep Water Culture Tutorial, SH Kit & DIY

When you start an indoor grow, you need to seriously consider three important factors. Well, let me say six.
First three are LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATION.
The second are
PREPARATION, PREPARATION, PREPARATION.
I 've been preparing for weeks. I've done several GROWs at friend's and relative's homes, (for a share) and I've also loaned out my equipment more than I should have. Sometimes I get it all back, soemtimes, it gets lost in the shuffle.
I'll start with PREPARATION first. That's what I 'm doing.
My Dad taught me the best way to examine your "stuff" is to spread it all out where you can see it. So I've gathered it all up, and spread it out so let me show you my closet in our spare bed room, that was really our JUNK room.
I "ll start with some pics first.
I'm a collector of additional and bigger bulbs. Last year, I kept tripping a circuit breaker, so this year, I added another line to the closet.


(Disregard the dates on these pics, I put a new battery in the camera and I forgot to re-set the date)
Cost me $32 for parts, $20 for the 50 feet of wire, and $12 for the circuit breaker, and the box, to add that line.

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I had to test it.

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My son was an electrician so the labor was free.
 
Re: Roseman's Deep Water Culture Tutorial, SH Kit & DIY

I can not emphasize the importance of keeping the grow area clean.
I looked at my closed and started cleaning it out and found two spider webs in it!
You can not have anything from outside, from outdoors in
the area of your grow.
When I brought my tools in from the gargage that I knew I would need, I washed them. The grow area has to be clean!
 
Re: Roseman's Deep Water Culture Tutorial, SH Kit & DIY

Let me make a list here of some of the tools you will need.

For tools, I will need a hammer, a flat head screw driver, a phillips head screw driver, needle nose pliers, and a pair of heavy duty scissors or shears.
Some of the following items listed depend on how large of a grow are you doing.
My target for this grow is to use two 8 gallon reservoir tanks, and one 5 gallon bucket to yield me at elast 16 ounces of dried manicured buds.
I use 4 Surge Protectors and a wide assortment of extension cords.
I save all the twistie ties from opening up the pumps and other grow supplies.
I bought a roll of mylar, a 50 foot roll, 50 inches wide and 2 mm thick, for $29.
I use 2 or 3 5 gallon buckets.
I need a trash can or a large trash bag for trash.
For security and privacy, you want to save all trash from your grow room, and discard it separately. You need to put everything you thow away in a public trash dumpster, and not in your household trash.
I use chain to hang my lights on, and I buy 25 foot lenghts of chain that is very cheap from Walmart.



You have to have supplies, that can be obtained at any Pet Store, Aquarium Department, Hardware Store, Walmart, Lowes, Targets, or Home Depot.
A list to consider is
a Camera, Reflective Material of Mylar or white paint or panda film, or white plastic sheets like they use for garbage bags, 2 sided tape to hang the mylar, a hammer, two screw drivers, flat and phillips, a box of extra large thumb tacks, a roll of duct tape, a roll of masking tape, a dozen extra large twistie ties, large scissors, a black magic marker, small scissors, a razor knife, wire cutters, two clean empty plastic gallon water jugs, a clean quart jar, a large collander, a tea strainer, a straightened wire clothes hanger, a can of pressurized air, a big spoon, needle nose pliers, regular pliers, wire cutters, a measuring cup, a Tablespoon measuring spoon, clean water, seeds, nutrients, lights, pH UP and Down, reflectors, extension cords, surge protectors, 2 extra 5 gallon buckets, a syphon hose made for aquariums, 24 feet of small cheap chain to hang lights and reflectors from, a large trash can, trash bags, vacumn cleaner, oscilating fan, styrafoam saucers to make lid covers, fishing weights to hold down the air stones,
sun glasses and a cap to wear so the lights don't blind you, a good Grow Bible (a book), a notebook and ink pen to take notes and make a daily diary journal, pH test strips, or a pH meter, grow cups, rockwool, hydroton, water pump, air pump, air stones, 1/4 inch plastic tubing, ODOR CONTROL, at least two oscilating fans, a good Pesticide, Large Spray Bottle, and the Reservoir TANKS.
 
Re: Roseman's Deep Water Culture Tutorial, SH Kit & DIY

There are 100s of Nutrients (nutes) on the market for sale, and they are expensive. They all claim to work miracles, just to get your money.
All you really need are nutes for two cycles, Bloom Nutes and Veg Nutes, also called Grow Nutes and Flowering nutes.

I have tried LIQUID KARMA as a supplement or catalyst, and found it made a difference. It is expensive and not absolutely necesary.

I use cheap, pre-packaged, pre-mesured, pre pH balanced, NO brand named nutes :
GROW or VEG N-P-K 10-5-14
CALCIUM 6%, MAGNISUM 2%, SULPHUR 3%,
IRON .12%, MANGANESE .05%,
AND BORON, COPPER, CHLORIDE,
MOLYBDENUM, AND ZINC .01%


BLOOM or Flower N-P-K 5-15-14
(NOTE A VERY SMALL AMOUNT OF NITROGEN IS STILL IN THERE)
CALCIUM 5%, MAGNESIUM 3.5%,
SULPHUR 4%, IRON .1%,
AND BORON, COPPER, CHLORIDE,
MOLYBDENUM, AND ZINC .01%

You need to google and study up on N-P-K definitions and proportions.
 
Re: Roseman's Deep Water Culture Tutorial, SH Kit & DIY

PREPARATION


I cleaned the closet, washed the walls, and vacumned the carpet. I sprayed with HOME DEFENSE, an all purpose, "lasts for 12 months" odorless, stainless pesticide, for critters, bugs, eggs, whatever. I just can not emphasis this enough.
You MUST spray the grow area, to not only kill what is present, but to kill the eggs and prevent future eggs.
Our Vet recommended HOME DEFENSE PESTICIDE. We have all kids of animals (dog, cat, bearded dragons, geckos, ferret, 2 birds) that roam the house and our VET told us that Home Defense is very safe AFTER it dries and will not harm our animals.

I am spraying the floor and walls first to give it plenty of time to dry.


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VERY IMPORTANT
Over the past 4 years, I have seen a new post every week, EVERY WEEK, from a newbie grower, saying I GOT SPIDER MITES! The heat and moisture attracks them. You MUST use some PREVENTION or deal with the cure and remedy later. PREVENTION is much easier adn much cheaper too. PLEASE USE A PSTICIDE BEFORE YOU START A GROW.

Preparation
SAFETY

If you are not in a legal medical growing state,
Rule One, DO NOT TELL ANYONE. Even if you are a legal grower, DO NOT TELL! Someone will steal your grow.
I've been on different grow sites for over 4 years. The NUMBER ONE reason for getting busted is the X-wife or X-Girlfriend got mad and pissed off and told the Law.
#2, Nosey Neighbors. don't let them see you hauling in strange things. Don't let them smell your grow.
# 3, Stranger shows up at the door.



Location
Is it empty?
Can you control the smell? the household pets?
Can you control the Humidity? the Heat?
Can you make it ALL Dark with NO Light?
Central Heat and Central Air Conditioning sure help.
Is the area private, and away from visitors?
Is your area clean and bug free?



You can not bring in buckets, tools, or anything from outside, into the indoor grow area. You will be bringing in bug eggs, spider mite eggs and all kinds of undesirable bugs and microscopic creatures and things that will ruin your grow. The dog and cat can bring in critters and larvae and bug eggs too
 
Re: Roseman's Deep Water Culture Tutorial, SH Kit & DIY

You will need a time of Total Darkness, when and where NO Light enters the room or grow area. Total Darkness will be an absolute MUST!

I have two double windows in the room, so I first put blinds on them.
Then I covered those blinds with a blanket. If someone like a stranger or meter reader looks in the window, he will see the blanket. Then to seal out LIGHT LEAKS, I covered the window with dark plastic.


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Here you see some of my junk or a view of the room.

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Re: Roseman's Deep Water Culture Tutorial, SH Kit & DIY

Great tutorial!
This will help out a lot of people from making numerous errors, we THANK YOU VERY MUCH
 
Re: -------'s Deep Water Culture Tutorial, SH Kit & DIY

When I get to the Section on LIGHTS, I will explain why Ed Rosenthal thinks a large number of 42 watt CFL bulbs are more efficient than using LARGE 105 and 200 watt CFL bulbs.
But you can see what I have collected laying on that mattress and in the floor.
Those 200 watt CFLs are GIANTS!
There are 200s, 105s, 85s, 65s and 42s there.

Bulb_Assorment.jpg


I only want to use the 42s, 65s and 85s, but I am going to try the big 200 watt ones, for a short while, as an experiment. I already know they are going to get TOO HOT.
You also see a collection of CLAMP REFLECTORS.
You also see two Parabolic Reflectors that I am going to try. Those are expensive, $49 EACH. I've never used them but I will try them on those 200 watt bulbs. Those 2o0 watt CFL bulbs did not come with a regular sized socket, (called medium size) they are much larger and are called MOGUL Sockets. I had to buy Mogul Sockets to screw the bulbs into. And I'll provide more info in the LIGHTs section.

You see my one of my two tanks, 6 holes in each lid. I nned to wash them good, and get the mineral salts from my well water off of them from my previous grow.
You also see one my 5 gallon buckets for growing,a dn my Odor Control Bucket. An empty bucket is needed to do the DRAIN and REPLENISH, when you drain the water out and replace it.

You also need a trash can or box for trash near the grow area. I use that

For security and privacy, you want to save all trash from your grow room, and discard it separately. You need to put everything you thow away in a public trash dumpster, and not in your household trash.

I collect GROW Supplies and loan them out to friends. I have a varied assortment of old and new supplies.
 
Re: -------'s Deep Water Culture Tutorial, SH Kit & DIY

To do anything well, you have to understand it, so let me provide a little background and information here.

Hydroponics
Way over 2600 years ago, a great king named Nebuchadnezzar built the Hanging Gardens of Babylon....the first Hydroponic Garden. 2000 years later, all man had learned was to grow in water, the water had to be flowing or moving. I think most of us have seen hydroponic vegetables growing in containers that look like giant rain gutters, with water running over the roots.
About 50 years ago, man figured out that if the water was highly oxegenated, with air bubbles, then the water did not have to be moving or flowing.

Today there are several Hydroponic Systems.
I will explain a few here, VERY Simply.

DWC, Deep Water Culture, is the most simple. It is simply roots dangling in water with air stones in the water making bubbles. (sometimes this is mistakenly called Deep Water Culture)
DWC:
DWC_Water_Culture.gif



There is also Ebb and Flow, also called Flood and Drain
That is simply a system of flooding water on and off the roots, timely and systamatically.
Ebb_and_Flow_Pic.gif







There is also the N.F.T. System. (Nutrient Film Technique)
N.F.T. is simply using a FLOW of water on a timer, splashing the roots. A MIST or SPRAY can also be used.
NFT_System.gif


There is also a DRIP System.
This is a DWC with feeder tubes DRIPPING water onto each grow cup and root base from above. That DRIP normally has to be on a Timer especially if it is a FLOW of water instead of just a DRIP.
Drip_System.gif



And the Aeroponic System, using a MIST on the roots from below, inside the tank.
Aeroponic_System.gif



A true Deep Water Culture System is my favorite. It uses a submersive water pump, that pumps water to an Irrigation Hub, also called an Irrigation Manifold, that divides the water into 6 streams to each grow cup and root base. It is the MOST rapid growing system available. I can get an average of one inch growth in height daily using the Bubleponics System.

So, What Is Deep Water Culture, Exactly?

The world’s first continuous plant feeding system, Deep Water Culture is a hybrid design that takes the best from both worlds of the Deep Water Culture (aka DWC, “bubbler”) and Drip Systems. Since the nutrient mix is highly oxygenated, Deep Water Culture converts its drip function to a constant feed flow directly to the inner roots, fed as a slight trickle. Without needing to take breaks to allow the root base to drain and absorb oxygen, plants in the Deep Water Culture system are able to deliver unparalleled growth energy.

This advantage is particularly pronounced during early vegetative phases when the plant’s root mass is still relatively small. Cuttings placed into the system experience no noticeable transplant shock and practically start growing immediately. In experiments measured against leading aeroponic systems, the Deep Water Culture design shaved, on average, four days from a two week growing cycle, a 30% growth rate increase over Aeroponics in the early vegetative stage; truly amazing. As the root mass of the respective plants grow larger, growth rate advantages were less evident, however, the plants in the Deep Water Culture planter maintained their 4-5 day lead over the aeroponic plants throughout the cycle.

In a series of stress tests, plants in the Deep Water Culture system performed remarkably when recovering from an over-fertilized condition. With almost the entire root mass destroyed, Deep Water Culture was able to revive 67% of the plants which started re-growing new roots and were able to complete their cycle. None of the other plants in the aeroponic products survived this stress test. The tests concluded that the Deep Water Culture system provided significant recovery advantages over other systems when it came to anything that stressed or killed that root mass.

Hub Feeding Ensures Consistency

The Deep Water Culture design is, ironically enough, one of the first hydroponic products to use real irrigation parts. This includes a hub feed system, where the main flow from the water pump is broken up into 6 smaller feeder tubes via a pressure regulating irrigation distributor. No other plant’s sites are thus dependant on any other as they would be in most drip systems that use T’ed designs. This also ensures identical feeding conditions at each site.

For this grow, we wil use Deep Water Culture. If you do not want to get the water pumps, hub and tubes, that is OK, you can still follow along and do a plain DWC.
You will still learn alot here.
 
Re: Roseman's Deep Water Culture Tutorial, SH Kit & DIY

Ooo can we see a diagram of old school Wick Hydroponics. Plz I always thought that was a odd one heh I love diagrams Thx Roseman
 
Re: Roseman's Deep Water Culture Tutorial, SH Kit & DIY

Let me review and repeat myself, this is of the utmost importance.
I cleaned the closet, washed the walls, and vacuumed the carpet.
Your grow area has to be clean!

I sprayed with HOME DEFENSE, an all purpose, "lasts for 12 months" odorless, stainless pesticide, for critters, bugs, eggs, whatever. I just can not emphasis this enough. You MUST spray the grow area, to not only kill what is present, but to kill the eggs and prevent future eggs. Heat and moisture is going to attract insects and spiders and flys and gnats and all kids of undesirable bugs and pests!


An ounce of Prevention is worth a ton of Cure!
 
Re: -------'s Deep Water Culture Tutorial, SH Kit & DIY

I need to soak some things in pH prepared water.
( I need to soak everything that goes in the tank or grow cups in pH prepared water.)
To do that, I have to get my pH meters and PPM - TDS meter ready.
That means replacing old batteries, cleaning them and calibrating them.


Here you see me replacing the batteries, Triple A size, in my Trunchone EC-ppm meter.
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The pH meters all use four 1.5 volt button batteries.


Let me say here, the meters are not absolutely necesary to grow successfully.
I 've done at least 3 successful grows without a ppm meter or a pH meter. You do need and should have pH test strips if you do not have a pH meter.


I'll discuss " pH " later. I'll also discuss purchasing the meters, and what to look for and insist on when you buy one.


Here you see my meters.
2009_Grow_0062.jpg


When you buy any meter,
1, Do NOT buy used meters, expecially from ebey,
2, Make sure they are Water-Proof,
3, Be sure they come with Batteries,
4, And be sure they come with Calibration Solution.


BTW, I have two pH meters, because one was a gift for a grower buddy and she got paranoid after her first grow, and gave it back.

2009_Grow_0071.jpg
 
Re: -------'s Deep Water Culture Tutorial, SH Kit & DIY

These meters have been loaned to three other growers besides me, and they have really been used and abused. That is a good reason to pay more and get better quality meters to start with, they will last longer.
I bought a bottle of LIME-A-WAY also called LCR, LIME, RUST and CALCIUM remover, poured a small amount in a quart jar, and as you see in these pics, I dipped the tips of the meters in the LCR in the jar, for a couple of minutes.


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After soaking the meters in the LCR, I rinsed them a long time in flowing water, and very gently scrubbed them in water, with a soft bristled toothbrush.

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Say and think what you want. I've done this EIGHT times, and it works fine for me!
 
Re: -------'s Deep Water Culture Tutorial, SH Kit & DIY

After I rinsed the meters and VERY GENTLY brushed the tips with a tooth brush, barely touching them witht he bristles, I rinsed my jar very good, and poured some household vinegar in the jar. (Vinegar is a great cleaning acid and it neutalizes other soaps and other chemicals)
Then I soaked the tips in the vinegar for 20 minutes. Later I rinsed them in water again, dipped them back in the vinegar, and dried them with a paper towel, and left them to air dry for an hour.

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Rinsing in an inch of vinegar.
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Time now to calibrate the pH meters.
 
Re: -------'s Deep Water Culture Tutorial, SH Kit & DIY

Time now to calibrate the pH meters.


The RED meter came with the two Calibration Solutions. It was $59 two years ago.



2009_Grow_021.jpg


The blueish pH meter was only $30, but did not come with Calibration Solution.

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Re: Roseman's Deep Water Culture Tutorial, SH Kit & DIY

One of the most aggrevating things I've ever attempted was calibrating a pH meter.
Makes me want to just pee straight up!
And what makes it worst, is having two pH meters to compare results.

Let me give you a heads up about calibrating a pH meter and using it. You have to just use it as a "rule of thumb" so to speak, and use it to try to stay within range.
For those that already know and those that do not, you can put an expensive $59 super-duper pH meter in water, test it, read it, get 6.8 and take it out, stick it back in, and it will be a little different, like 6.6. Shake it around in the water, stir it in the water and you'll get a different results, like 6.4, in the exact same water. Then take it out of the water, turn it off, and put it back in the same water, turn it back on in the water, and read 6.5, blow on it and get 6.9.

DO NOT TEST THE pH IN THE TANK, BUT TAKE A SAMPLE OUT OF THE TANK AND TEST THE SAMPLE!!
Temperature of water makes a big difference in the pH of water.
Shaking and stirring the meter in the water, makes a slight difference.
Turning it on IN the water and turning it on OUT of the water, makes a slight difference.
Turning it OFF and ON in the same water, makes a difference.
Waiting TWO OR three minutes yields a different reading too.

I had year old calibration solution, but it was still clear looking and smelled OK. I used it and adjusted my meter, and then I used it and adjusted my meter, and then I used it and adjusted my meter, and then I used it and adjusted my meter, and then .......well,,,that took an hour.
I would put it in the 4.0 solution, get it to read 4.0 by adjusting it, (there is a SET SCREW you turn to make it go up or down) then put it in the 6.8 solution, it would read 7.1, I 'd turn it down to make it say 6.8, then try it again in the 4.0 and it would read 3.7!

After I spent an hour, spliting the difference, going back aND forth, it was very close to accurate to the calibration solution. In 6.8, it read 6.7, and in the 4.0, it read 4.1. Sounds good enough, huh? CLOSE ENOUGH FOR ME !
Then, I checked it with my old meter, and good grief! The old meter said the 4.0 was 3.5 and the 6.8 was read as 6.2.
Took another hour to get the two meters to agree within .5 difference, which is really a broad difference, but one I will accept.
AND I am not even going to compaRe them to the TEST STRIPs now, although I will later.

If you ever want to really drive someone crazy, or start them drinking early, buy them TWO pH meters, and ask them to adjust and calibrate them to perform the same.

Anyway, I got two pH meters, fairly close to reading the same, but not really. What's a pot head to do?

The pics show my efforts.
 
Re: -------'s Deep Water Culture Tutorial, SH Kit & DIY

My tap water is from a deep well, and comes out of the faucet at 7.0 pH, except when it has rained a long time, then it is higher. I'll discuss water in details, more later.

I am adjusting 3 gallons of water to 5.5, using powdered pH Down, to soak my airstones in. I will soak my airstones, rockwool, hydrton rocks, and pumps in 5.5 pH water.


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I love my trusty little yellow measuring tablespoon.




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The airstones are being soaked in the bucket and you see the wrappings next to the bucket. I use 14 inch long Aquarium Airstones.
2009_Grow_0034.jpg


I will be using 2 14-inch long blue aquarium airstones in each 8 gallon size tank, with 6 gallons of water in each tank. I will be using 2 8-inch long blue aquarium airstones in the 5 gallon bucket.
Air tubes and Air Diffussers and Air Wands are much better. I use the cheaper stones and just thow them away after each grow. I have often replaced them in the middle of a grow because they got slimey, and that is why I like the cheap ones better.

I have seen a grow done with a one inch round stone, and it worked OK.

In my first two grows, I used a 4 inch round stone. Then I started reading the importance of Air or Oxygen in my water for rapid growing.
The more oxygen in the water, the faster the rate of growth.
I need to SOAK my airstones, and prepare them in a pH water of 5.5. I am "over compensating". I want to soak them for an hour or two, in pH balanced water.
I use a powder pH Down solution that says use .2 gram, (2/10s gram) to adjust one gallon of water by .1 measurement of pH.
Let me say here a gram is a just a pinch.
2.4 grams ( a measurement of weight) equals one measured level teaspoon.
I want 4 gallons of water, close to 5.5 or 5.6, to soak my stones in.
I use well water and it comes out of the faucet cold at 6.9, 7.0 and 7.1 pH. It varies according to the temperature of the water and amount of recent rain.
I want my 7.0 water to be 5.9 in my grow, so I want to adjust it 1.0 down in pH to get it to 6.0.
To adjust it ten times .1, I needed ten times .2 grams of pH Down adjustment powder. So I used 10 time .2 grams, equals 2 grams. 2 grams is slightly less than a teaspoon, so I added a teaspoon of adjustment powder to each gallon of my water, and after I had 4 gallons in the bucket, and adjusted it, it read 5.7, close enough to my goal!
In the pics, you see me adjusting my water and soaking my air stones in the 5.7 water taht I wanted to be 5.5. CLOSE ENOUGH!
 
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