Tea brew organic soil - Too vibrant to be true?

B

Blueballavngr

New Member
Not a lot of followers In journal so I thought this would be an easier source for info regarding these. The stems r super vibrant on these leaves have grown this strain a couple times but haven't noticed the stems like this, maybe I overlooked because of excitement, but would rather catch something early. Any info would be great.
image12094.jpg
image12097.jpg
image12095.jpg

It's atomic nl
Recent transplant into a hot soil
It's drink of choice is tea
 
Re: Tea brew organic soil... Too vibrant to be true ?

Whats all the vitals?
Medium?
nutes?
RH?
TEMP?
water(RO,well,ect)??
how long in that pot?

May be a Lock out due to ph???
 
Re: Tea brew organic soil... Too vibrant to be true ?

check this out first...try to self diagnose and we can compare our findings. You have access to the plant and can look at it in its entirety and tell where to go on the solver here:
once you think you know, post it here and we will see if we came up with the same thing.

fun way to learn.plus this solver should be bookmarked and saved for future use:)


To use the Problem-Solver, simply start at #1 below. When you think you've found the problem, read the Nutrients section to learn more about it. Diagnose carefully before making major changes.

1) If the problem affects only the bottom or middle of the plant go to #2. b) If it affects only the top of the plant or the growing tips, skip to #10. If the problem seems to affect the entire plant equally, skip to #6.

2) Leaves are a uniform yellow or light green; leaves die & drop; growth is slow. Leaf margins are not curled-up noticeably. >> Nitrogen(N) deficiency. b) If not, go to #3.

3) Margins of the leaves are turned up, and the tips may be twisted. Leaves are yellowing (and may turn brown), but the veins remain somewhat green. >> Magnesium (Mg) deficiency. b) If not, go to #4.

4) Leaves are browning or yellowing. Yellow, brown, or necrotic (dead) patches, especially around the edges of the leaf, which may be curled. Plant may be too tall. >> Potassium (K) deficiency. b) If not, keep reading.

5) Leaves are dark green or red/purple. Stems and petioles may have purple & red on them. Leaves may turn yellow or curl under. Leaf may drop easily. Growth may be slow and leaves may be small. >> Phosphorus(P) deficiency. b) If not, go to #6.

6) Tips of leaves are yellow, brown, or dead. Plant otherwise looks healthy & green. Stems may be soft >> Over-fertilization (especially N), over-watering, damaged roots, or insufficient soil aeration (use more sand or perlite. Occasionally due to not enough N, P, or K. b) If not, go to #7.

7) Leaves are curled under like a ram's horn, and are dark green, gray, brown, or gold. >> Over-fertilization (too much N). b) If not, go to #8…

8) The plant is wilted, even though the soil is moist. >> Over-fertilization, soggy soil, damaged roots, disease; copper deficiency (very unlikely). b) If not, go to #9.

9) Plants won't flower, even though they get 12 hours of darkness for over 2 weeks. >> The night period is not completely dark. Too much nitrogen. Too much pruning or cloning. b) If not, go to #10...

10) Leaves are yellow or white, but the veins are mostly green. >> Iron (Fe) deficiency. b) If not, go to #11.

11) Leaves are light green or yellow beginning at the base, while the leaf margins remain green. Necrotic spots may be between veins. Leaves are not twisted. >> Manganese (Mn) deficiency. b) If not, #12.

12) Leaves are twisted. Otherwise, pretty much like #11. >> Zinc (Zn) deficiency. b) If not, #13.

13) Leaves twist, then turn brown or die. >> The lights are too close to the plant. Rarely, a Calcium (Ca) or Boron (B) deficiency. b) If not… You may just have a weak plant.


The Nutrients:

Nitrogen - Plants need lots of N during vegging, but it's easy to overdo it. Added too much? Flush the soil with plain water. Soluble nitrogen (especially nitrate) is the form that's the most quickly available to the roots, while insoluble N (like urea) first needs to be broken down by microbes in the soil before the roots can absorb it. Avoid excessive ammonium nitrogen, which can interfere with other nutrients. Too much N delays flowering. Plants should be allowed to become N-deficient late in flowering for best flavor.

Magnesium - Mg-deficiency is pretty common since marijuana uses lots of it and many fertilizers don't have enough of it. Mg-deficiency is easily fixed with ¼ teaspoon/gallon of Epsom salts (first powdered and dissolved in some hot water) or foilar feed at ½ teaspoon/quart. When mixing up soil, use 2 teaspoon dolomite lime per gallon of soil for Mg. Mg can get locked-up by too much Ca, Cl or ammonium nitrogen. Don't overdo Mg or you'll lock up other nutrients.

Potassium - Too much sodium (Na) displaces K, causing a K deficiency. Sources of high salinity are: baking soda (sodium bicarbonate "pH-up"), too much manure, and the use of water-softening filters (which should not be used). If the problem is Na, flush the soil. K can get locked up from too much Ca or ammonium nitrogen, and possibly cold weather.

Phosphorous - Some deficiency during flowering is normal, but too much shouldn't be tolerated. Red petioles and stems are a normal, genetic characteristic for many varieties, plus it can also be a co-symptom of N, K, and Mg-deficiencies, so red stems are not a foolproof sign of P-deficiency. Too much P can lead to iron deficiency.

Iron - Fe is unavailable to plants when the pH of the water or soil is too high. If deficient, lower the pH to about 6.5 (for rockwool, about 5.7), and check that you're not adding too much P, which can lock up Fe. Use iron that's chelated for maximum availability. Read your fertilizer's ingredients - chelated iron might read something like "iron EDTA". To much Fe without adding enough P can cause a P-deficiency.

Manganese - Mn gets locked out when the pH is too high, and when there's too much iron. Use chelated Mn.

Zinc - Also gets locked out due to high pH. Zn, Fe, and Mn deficiencies often occur together, and are usually from a high pH. Don't overdo the micro-nutrients-lower the pH if that's the problem so the nutrients become available. Foilar feed if the plant looks real bad. Use chelated zinc.

Check Your Water - Crusty faucets and shower heads mean your water is "hard," usually due to too many minerals. Tap water with a TDS (total dissolved solids) level of more than around 200ppm (parts per million) is "hard" and should be looked into, especially if your plants have a chronic problem. Ask your water company for an analysis listing, which will usually list the pH, TDS, and mineral levels (as well as the pollutants, carcinogens, etc) for the tap water in your area. This is a common request, especially in this day and age, so it shouldn't raise an eyebrow. Regular water filters will not reduce a high TDS level, but the costlier reverse-osmosis units, distillers, and de-ionizers will. A digital TDS meter (or EC = electrical conductivity meter) is an incredibly useful tool for monitoring the nutrient levels of nutrient solution, and will pay for itself before you know it. They run about $40 and up.

General Feeding Tips - Pot plants are very adaptable, but a general rule of thumb is to use more nitrogen & less phosphorous during the vegetative period, and the exact opposite during the flowering period. For the veg. period try a N:p:K ratio of about 10:kiss:8 (which of course is the same ratio as 20:phew:16), and for flowering plants, 4:bigblush:8. Check the pH after adding nutrients. If you use a reservoir, keep it circulating and change it every 2 weeks. A general guideline for TDS levels is as follows:
seedlings = 50-150 ppm; unrooted clones = 100-350 ppm; small plants = 400-800 ppm; large plants = 900-1800 ppm; last week of flowering = taper off to plain water. These numbers are just a guideline, and many factors can change the actual level the plants will need. Certain nutrients are "invisible" to TDS meters, especially organics, so use TDS level only as an estimate of actual nutrient levels. When in doubt about a new fertilizer, follow the fertilizer's directions for feeding tomatoes. Grow a few tomato or radish plants nearby for comparison.

PH - The pH of water after adding any nutrients should be around 5.9-6.5 (in rockwool, 5.5-6.1). Generally speaking, the micro-nutrients (Fe, Zn, Mn, Cu) get locked out at a high pH (alkaline) above 7.0, while the major nutrients (N, P, K, Mg) can be less available in acidic soil or water (below 5.0). Tap water is often too alkaline. Soils with lots of peat or other organic matter in them tend to get too acidic, which some dolomite lime will help fix. Soil test kits vary in accuracy, and generally the more you pay the better the accuracy. For the water, color-based pH test kits from aquarium stores are inexpensive, but inaccurate. Invest in a digital pH meter ($40-80), preferably a waterproof one. You won't regret it.

Cold - Cold weather (below 50F/10C) can lock up phosphorous. Some
varieties, like equatorial sativas, don't take well to cold weather. If you can keep the roots warmer, the plant will be able to take cooler temps than it otherwise could.

Heat - If the lights are too close to the plant, the tops may be curled, dry, and look burnt, mimicking a nutrient problem. Your hand should not feel hot after a minute when you hold it at the top of the plants. Raise the lights and/or aim a fan at the hot zone. Room temps should be kept under 85F (29C) -- or 90F (33) if you add additional CO2.

Humidity - Thin, shriveled leaves can be from low humidity. 40-80 % is usually fine.

Mold and Fungus - Dark patchy areas on leaves and buds can be mold. Lower the humidity and increase the ventilation if mold is a problem. Remove any dead leaves, wherever they are. Keep your garden clean.

Insects - White spots on the tops of leaves can mean spider mites
underneath.

Sprays - Foilar sprays can have a "magnifying glass" effect under bright lights, causing small white, yellow or burnt spots which can be confused with a nutrient problem. Some sprays can also cause chemical reactions.

Insufficient light - tall, stretching plants are usually from using the wrong kind of light.. Don't use regular incandescent bulbs ("grow bulbs") or halogens to grow cannabis. Invest in fluorescent lighting (good) or HID lighting (much better) which supply the high-intensity light
that cannabis needs for good growth and tight buds. Even better, grow in sunlight.

Clones - yellowing leaves on unrooted clones can be from too much light, or the stem may not be firmly touching the rooting medium. Turn off any CO2 until they root. Too much fertilizer can shrivel or wilt clones - plain tap water is fine.
 
Re: Tea brew organic soil... Too vibrant to be true ?

RIGHT ON...high ph causing lock out...being seen in form of manganese deficiency is what i came up with too.

you need any help with adjusting the soil ph or you good to go??
 
Re: Tea brew organic soil... Too vibrant to be true ?

I have used sulfer in the past but it took 3 weeks to kick in between watering I will just have to wait until next water and over compensate? Would a flush be better? I will chk the run off next water and ppm. From my research I thought the bacteria from the tea brew would just adjust and take what it wanted. That's what I gathered from subcools super soil videos and other tea brew threads. Do u think a dramatic ph change would hurt the life forms in the soil? I guess they would adjust to their environment and find a way. I also use super thrive for trace minerals, but if it's ph an addition isn't needed. The ppm info is much appreciated as I hAve been guessing increasing 1 a week by 50-75 and am currently at 600ish
 
Re: Tea brew organic soil... Too vibrant to be true ?

Blueballavngr said:
I have used sulfer in the past but it took 3 weeks to kick in between watering I will just have to wait until next water and over compensate? Would a flush be better? I will chk the run off next water and ppm. From my research I thought the bacteria from the tea brew would just adjust and take what it wanted. That's what I gathered from subcools super soil videos and other tea brew threads. Do u think a dramatic ph change would hurt the life forms in the soil? I guess they would adjust to their environment and find a way. I also use super thrive for trace minerals, but if it's ph an addition isn't needed. The ppm info is much appreciated as I hAve been guessing increasing 1 a week by 50-75 and am currently at 600ish
Click to expand...

you are right here the bacteria should be buffering the soil for you if they are hooked up and doing there job. but since you put them into a hot soil there must be an imbalance some where....IMO i would do a nice flush and after the h2o flush add a few cups of fresh brewed tea. using something like some earth worm castings and kelp for the microbe food but be very carefull with molasses it can cause huge ph spikes, i just took it out of my brews all together and stick with kelp.



Thanks for the REP brotha :)
 
Thanks again for the replies. I started using general hydroponics and I think there was a salt build up when I switched to the tea. I was running at 6.1 and the brew was at 7.5. I adjusted thd tea the second and third feeding. I believe the issue was the bacteria hadn't colenizied yet and weren't buffering as much yet causing a ph burn from fluctuation. They look great tho now. But now I have another issue now. The dreaded mites! I use sns 217 every other week on Sundays. No webs but I found eggs on the bottom of the leaves. So idk if I caught them in time or what time will tell. I'll post pics in a few
 
its great u use that product and alot of people here have with great results but i would say just spray then again within 3-4 days from the last then again another 3-4 days later and you SHOULD have killed adults/ broke the life cycle of any new ones and be fine but watch closely from then forward as to wether or not you need more.

none the less best of luck to you Blue:high-five:
 
Hey sir grow my plants r looking good but my ph is at 8.4 by the end of brew. I just ordered humic acid to help with the brew. The brew is working well, it's just the ph is so hi I feel I should adjust my recipe any pointers would be great.
5g h20
3c casting
5T molasses
5T kelp extract
1/2 c dessert bat
1/2 c cave bat
Tsp super thrive
2.5 T kangaroot
Brew till smells sweet and foamy about 36 hrs
The ppm is about 550
And once again ph 8.4
I plan adding 1/2 c humic soil
 
The recipe looks good, its all about how the plant responds to it, but the ph should be fine assuming the microbial colony is cranked up and doing their job so dont worry about that.

How are they responding?? how about a pic?:)
 
I've done a lot of research since then. They were healthy enough to get 30 clones of the 2 atomic nl. They look like Christmas trees now but show more condensed node growth like every 1/4 inch. I have been pinching at the base. I would really like to flower them but I established these as mothers out of the last batch so I know they r good producers. The white widow shark cross put out 7. So I really can't wait to see how they do with better soil and organic tea. Here r photos of my nursery. U might se a lot of ladybugs As I found mites and released these too feed
image12788.jpg
image12787.jpg
image12786.jpg
image12783.jpg
image12784.jpg
image12730.jpg
image12785.jpg
image12731.jpg
image12728.jpg
image12420.jpg
image12421.jpg
image12419.jpg
image12418.jpg
image12417.jpg
 
I modified the recipe and found good growth and better ph at 7.1 and ppm at 550-650
3c worm
1.5c bat guano (8-2-1)
.5c batt guano (0-10-0)
Cap super thrive
5T kelp
5T molasses
2T+1t kangaroot
5g h20
T humic acid. This showed faster/healthier growth
On a side note I had many conversations with a very educated member that was correcting me on a advice I gave someone. Through this I learned that my tea brew doesn't mean s**t because idk the actual composition of my soil cause it's a variation of super soil x home compost x promix hp. So I don't really know what the plants r taking, if it's becoming depleted, if im renoirishing the soil, or wasting money on tea cause the soil has everything and it's just needs a bump in bacteria once I a while. So if someone finds this recipe it may not be best for u but it's working for me
 
Right on man good find and great on you for searching it out!!! +REP
 

Similar threads

NCDude
Tea/Soil/PH question
Replies
8
Views
3K
Icemud
Icemud
G
Organic tea help
Replies
0
Views
809
George2324
G
M
New grower, Many Questions...Lst? or too late
Replies
1
Views
807
DEAN420
DEAN420
K
How To and Use Organic Tea
Replies
3
Views
1K
KamadoKing
K
SptyOty
Marijuana Tea?
Replies
8
Views
13K
rhomb
rhomb
Back
Top Bottom