Home made power LED lights

Techhead

New Member
I started building a grow light system back a few years ago. Back then the info was lacking to say the least, and the thinking was simple red and blue LED systems would be all a guy would need. So I put together a couple systems. I started with an old power amplifier that had blown itself up, and burned the traces to the point of not being rebuildable. So I made it into a power supply putting out just over 65V, and capable of producing up to 15A with no problem. I did this with 2 amps, the one in the GROW room has a little more voltage, but less current, still more than I need though. I put togther a grow light for the mommies with RED 630nm and BLUE 460nm in a 2 to 1 ratio total power used by these 5 watt leds was 80, this has served me well, and has worked for several years now.
Flowering was a different story. I built 3 24" X 14" panels using the same ratio. It looked like it was working at first, but failed in the end. Now the builders were saying to add in some deep red, and some white, but nobody could settle on cool white or warm white, so I added another line with cool white and some deep red 660nm plus some more red 625's. So now I have 6 cool whites, 6 blues, 8 deep reds and too many red 625's in 2 lines for each panel at 65V, 1A for each line, so 130 WATT for each panel. I removed my 600 HPS /400 MH combo system I'm trying to replace and did another run. It did just a little better, but not by much. So for the last few years I put the HPS/MH unit back in, and fit 2 of my three panels in on the sides for enhancement. Now the thinking has changed again, they say more deep red is needed, and far red 740nm as well, plus the royal blues 450nm have come out, but not in 5 watt, but the Phillips say they can run at 1A. So now I have 6 blue, 6 royal blue, 8 deep red, 10 far red, 6 cool white, 12 red running in 2 lines at 1A each on each panel, plus 25 more red shared by all three panels, plus 25 3 watt deep red on each panel. The shared line of red can be turned off when flowering, but will be on for cloning with the blues and other reds. So, using 60 watt to make adding easy, growing uses 240 watt, and flowering will use 495 without the extra reds, and 555 watt if I do. I also added lenses. I put narrow angle lenses on the 3 watt deep reds, (I forgot to say they run at 700mA), and wide lenses on the rest 90 degree. I am a couple weeks from trying out the new set up, and I am done with putting on anything new for now. I will let you all know how it all works.
I do have some questions about UV's though. Next year I was thing of adding some UV's but they are expensive. I was thinking of a shared line of 1 watt units, so that would be about 25 of them depending on there breakover voltage. Any thoughts on this would be welcome.
All of this came at a price though, I bought everything mounted on starboards, and used starboard holders for the lenses, and built my own heat sinks from aluminum and put 6 24V fans in 2 series line of 3 on each panel. This whole thing cost me just under $2000.00 power supplies and all including for the grow room. Not for the faint of pocket book.
 
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What I'm showing here is the three panels I built, and the power amp I used, but I didn't want to show the brand name. The amp was rated for an output of 550 watts RMS into a 2 Ohm load X 2, so I could get as much as 32 amps out of it. I'm only asking for about 10. There are three panels, 2 of them have 4 rails, and 1 has 3 plus a satalight for flowering old mommies. Just as the farmers wife made soup out of the old hens I make baked goods out of old mommies. This all covers 12 square feet, so I have about 46 watts per foot. Sorry but I forgot to take any pictures of them in GROW mode. So I have 555 watts in flower mode, and 240 watts in grow.
 
Whoa, dude!

That is really, really, really cool!

You must have a lot of patients to have gotten as far as you did with little information.

Serious +Reps on this thread! I'll even come back later and drop a second bout of +Reps on this thread. Super cool!

:high-five:
 
I just was reading a thread about grams per watt with HPS/MH lights VS LED, so I thought I'd let you how I was doing, then in a few months I'll let you know where I end up at. To start with, I was using my incomplete LED lights on the sides of a 600HPS/400MH combo light. So, not including power supply losses in the HPS/MH I have had 1240 watts of lighting. From that I was getting 1 1/4 LB. That works out to about .44 grams per watt in a 12 square foot area. I try not to get them very high, the ceiling is low in my space.
If I get about the same results from this LED system it would come out to 1 GPW. It will be a few months till I know. The new system will be going in this weekend, then I have to root, and grow them a little before anything. I'm sure you all know how it goes.
 
Ok, just counted my last run. I came up a little short from the last three runs as I only got 1 lb. 2.5 oz.
I do have a question for the main stream LED light manufactures out there. I have been keeping my mommies under a simple blue/red LED system for several years now without a problem. I have 80 watts, (that's true watts) devided into 4 heat sinks suspended over the mommies. So to the manufactures out there, why not put out a cheaper little product just for the grow room. What I do see out there is larger units that can be switched down, but as a dedicated unit why buy more. A few little units for maybe $75.00 each, a guy could buy several to cover a small place for the mommies to live. Think about it.
 
As I have just started my new grow under my improved LED system I though I should clear something up. First of all, the 600/400 hps/mh light I have been using was too big for my space as it is wider than it is long. What I should have bought some years ago was 2 400's of some kind. Second thing is, I believe I have reached the max of what my space can deliver so I am not looking for an increase of product, or even a better product.
What I am looking for is the same amount, with the same smokability but for less of an electric bill, and much less heat. I was reaching over 105 degrees, and could not find a way to vent all of that. So, if I get a gram per watt I win, and if I get more than I really win.
Of course there is nothing to say about how it's going, I have been starting plants under LED's for several years now, so I expect nothing new for some time.
 
As my babies are just taking root I thought I'd give a little history of things. I've been at this now for a little over 2 decades now. So long all there was for cloning was powder for rooting compounds. I also used Willow Water, I'll bet most of you never heard of that did you. Willow water can root a tooth pick. So, in the early days I used dirt, and florecent bulbs, and even those 70 watt HPS's like on your garage. I then changed to industrial 400 watt MH lights, one for grow, and one for flower, but now the heat was getting up there. I did switch from dirt a little over 10 years ago, and made a home made eb and flow system out of PVC pipes, and 4" net cups and those clay rocks.
I started playing with LED's about 8 years ago, so the only systems I saw out there were very laughable to say the least with those little through hole LED's. So I set off making my own. I've been keeping my mommies under my first attempt since then. The rest of my LED development is stated already above.
I did read a thread saying to name the type of LED's used, so here it is. all the 5 watt's are LedEngin, but I forgot to reset my meter from current to voltage when I was trouble shooting a line and took out 2 deep reds, and could not find a replacement for some reason. My vender just does not have them anymore, so I just put in a couple reds. I also burned out a couple of the cool whites, and replaced them with a Cree warm white. The Royal Blues and 3 watt deep reds are Phillups and I got them from Steves LEDs on the net. The Royal blues are 3 watts, but the spec sheet said they will run at 1A, but for how long? so I'm running the line with the blues, and some of the reds at .925A just to be on the safer side of there operations. I don't think that's costing me much on the performance of the 5 watt units in that line.
I did take the lazy way, and bought almost all of them pre mounted on starboards. That would have been a lot to solder them by hand. I did have the originals soldered with wire, but when I upgraded everything and wanted lenses I desoldered them all and got these plastic holders for starboards that have a lense holder that you clip together. So of course the screw holes were off from what I had to what I was doing now, and I had to redrill almost everything and tap them all out to hold a 4-40 screw. The good thing about those holders is I didn't have to solder anything on the LED's, just push the wire in. For some reason the Far Red starboards didn't quite line up and I had to bend the contact tabs in just a little on them, but other than that it went pretty fast.
I am still looking at input from somebody out there on adding some UV's. I am thinking of using a line of 1 watters for those, and sharing 25 or so with all three panels. Any thoughts on this are welcome.
 
Just make sure you don't use UV-C if you plan on getting in there under the light. The UV-C radiation will make sure you don't have any PM or anything like that, but it will also give you cancer at an accelerated rate. I don't know if UV-C diodes are even available, but you don't want to expose you skin or eyes to those lightwaves.

My Mars-Hydro lights do not use UV at all, and they work pretty great.

Other than that I have no input I am just along for the ride.
 
thank you for your input Sweetleaf. I was thinking about something in the 415nM range to get those high frequencies in there, but I never did feel it was REALLY needed. Besides, I keep looking for a good LED for the job. Non of them I've looked at would fit my bill, and all are too expensive. Anything else you see missing? I do want the best system I can build, and I have seen good things from you on this subject.
I've been reading that the nutes should be cut back on LED's for dirt farming, but have not seen anything on this for hydro. Any thoughts on this would be nice as I will be changing the light timing in about 2 to 3 weeks.
 
Thank you Dano2k3 for your input on the UV issue. I am still trying to figure out just how much to use though for this system. I do know what frequencies I would want, but I don't want to over power everything, and too little would just be a waste of money. I do have time though, I still don't expect to change anything till next summer if at all. I want to see how what I do have works, and summer is when I make most of my money.
As for how things are working. I'll start out by saying I have been using LedEngins for some time now, and I know they show very little current drift, and that's without cooling fans, as they are new. All my lines have about 25, or so LED's in them, and I have only seen a current drift of about 20mA. Now I have those Phillips Royal Blue 3 watters in there, and to give them there due, I'm running them about 200mA above what they should run at. I was not running the fans on Grow mode because I wasn't worried about heat at 80 watts per panel, but they must have gone into thermal runaway as I had to replace the 1.25A fuses on 2 of the panels. So I cut back on the current for that line in all the panels, just a little, then I made it so the fans are always on when powered up. I have not had a problem with them since.
I just hope the 3 watt Phillips deep reds do not drift. I only have 6 of the royal blues in a line, but I have 25 of the deep reds. They are set up at the correct current of 700mA, but there are a bunch of them. I just turned them on last night for there first 12 Hrs without a problem, and there are fused at 1A, so if they do drift all they should do is shut down. I'm hoping for the best on this.
I know I should have set up my power supply with a current regulator, but my current draw changes when in grow mode, or flower mode, and one side of my power supply draws just over 4A, and the other draws just over 5A. I do have a power supply sage when in full power, but not much. It goes from 65.54V to 64.98V from no load to full load. If anything that will reduce the current when in full load mode, but not much more that a few milli amps.
 
Well I've been running 12/12 for a week now. I may have jumped in maybe 3 or 4 days early as I'm not getting as much stretch as I would have gotten with the MH/HPS, Oh well, learn as you go. Still they look very good, and all the lights are working so far. I figure if they made it this far they should be good for years to come.
Don't expect too many pictures, sorry for that. Getting past the wife isn't easy. You have all seen little plants anyway, not much to look at until the end. I'll try sneaking something out then.
 
Well the lights are still working here in the middle of week three. The plants are looking real good, all the leaves are a nice green, and no burn, even right down to the bottom. Even in the shade of the plants there is almost no place of absolute shadow. Those lenses really seem to drive the light home. The girls all have there little crowns of white hair everywhere, and even the lower branches are getting good light and are catching up to there crowns. I still think I should have held up on the flowering for a couple days, but not much longer than that. I would have liked about 4 more inches than I am going to get. That may cost me a few ounces, so in the end I will consider that in the tally, that way I can compare apples to apples. All in all I think I'll be happy in the end.:party:
 
One of my panels dropped out on the 5 watt deep red, far red, and white line, so I had to call my tech. Oh wait, that's me. The way my grow space is set up it's hard to work on the lights, or get them out, but I was lucky my plants didn't get as tall as I would have liked, because it did make it easier. As I said before, the far reds didn't line up very well with the stars from the lens holders. Not too big of a deal, just remove the lens, and there are test points on the star holder. I started looking at the far reds first, there are only 10 on a line, so no big deal. Then find were the voltage stops and fix it. Of course it was one on the farthest end so I had to reach out to work on it, but I got it done. So, I had one night of them not working, but the rest of the lights were on so no biggie. The girls are looking good here in the middle of week 4, and the smell is starting. Good thing I have the smell contained.
 
Hi Techhead,

prices have fallen a lot and I was wondering what you would do now? For example perhaps it might be better to go for 1680Watts of White COB (for ~$1000) -see link 2. Since white cob has higher lumen output per Watt but some of it is in wasted green part of the spectrum. I've read white light COB is simply blue diode with added phosphors to make rest of Spectrum.
Or perhaps go for 4 x "full spectrum" 100 or 200W COBs?

-Of course advantage of your setup is that you can selectively 'turn on and off'. There are chips that can do this but currently they are "Aquarium focused" -not much red, more white and blue leds;
Link1: 2014 Direct Selling Hot Sale Epistar Annular 4pcs/lot free Shipping 100w 5 Channel Multi channel Led Dream Chip with Lens-in LED Bulbs & Tubes from Lights & Lighting on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group


Nick.

Link 2. Free Shipping 8PCS/Lot LED Floodlight Flood Light Outdoor COB Lighting 10W 20W 30W 50W 100W 150W 200W Epistar Chip CE RoHS-in Floodlights from Lights & Lighting on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group
 
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