Mosser Lee Soil Master Moisture Light and pH Meter
- Thread starter jwb87
- Start date
Light meter - Eyeball unless you're riding the bleeding edge, in which case either purchase a PAR meter or borrow one from a local aquarium/reef club.
Moisture meter - Finger and/or pick up the pot when it's dry and compare it to when you've watered it.
pH meter - Get an electronic pen-style, either a nice full-featured one such as the Milwaukee pH56 (or comparable brand) for around $60-$70 or a basic no-frills economy-class one such as the Milwaukee pH600 (or comparable brand) for around $20-$25. Failing that, there are always test strips, but the cheaper decent meters are not all that much more than a test kit.
Those 3-in-1 meters... You might - I guess - manage to find one that works acceptably, but a lot of people's experiences with those kind of things mirrors that of the factory oil-pressure gauges that were in some '70s American automobiles. IOW, it might tell you that everything is hunky dory even when you start hearing valves rattle I mean start seeing visual cues that you have issues.
Just my opinion, of course.
Moisture meter - Finger and/or pick up the pot when it's dry and compare it to when you've watered it.
pH meter - Get an electronic pen-style, either a nice full-featured one such as the Milwaukee pH56 (or comparable brand) for around $60-$70 or a basic no-frills economy-class one such as the Milwaukee pH600 (or comparable brand) for around $20-$25. Failing that, there are always test strips, but the cheaper decent meters are not all that much more than a test kit.
Those 3-in-1 meters... You might - I guess - manage to find one that works acceptably, but a lot of people's experiences with those kind of things mirrors that of the factory oil-pressure gauges that were in some '70s American automobiles. IOW, it might tell you that everything is hunky dory even when you start hearing valves rattle I mean start seeing visual cues that you have issues.
Just my opinion, of course.
- Thread starter
- #3
jwb87
New Member
Thanks TS.
I decided against the multi, as its reviews were horrible.
I do have a MW ph600, and a TDM meter, though the TDM is WAYYYY off, so thats pretty much useless.
Just want to try and take any human error out of my grow as possible, as I already F'D up 3/4 of my grow..
I decided against the multi, as its reviews were horrible.
I do have a MW ph600, and a TDM meter, though the TDM is WAYYYY off, so thats pretty much useless.
Just want to try and take any human error out of my grow as possible, as I already F'D up 3/4 of my grow..
SmokzAlot
New Member
My view and usage is a bit different. I use it as a reference marker. The number and scales are of little value. Example: I have a plant that grows great in a certain window. I use the meter and notice it's point of reference. With that info, I can now seek an equal source at another window. I use the ph and moist the same way. I don't chase numbers, it's more of a quick go or no-go gauge. I know what works now I can measure it and reproduce it. Can I share standard numbers with someone else? No, it doesn't give that level of accuracy.
So when it's all you have, you have to use it to it's fullest advantage. Worth the money for a low budget soil grow? I say YES. If anything it will keep the newbie from over watering as much.
Make note of what you have as baselines so any change from there has a point of reference. Knowing how you are effecting the grow is most important. If number accuracy is what you are after then look elsewhere.
Edit: Let me add I use the light meter to visually see the drop off in relation to distance with my various lights. To include CFL, 150w hps, 600w digital, and natural light. An example is checking the canopy penetration and how fast it drops off. Look at it like the old battery tester that told you "GOOD, FAIR, BAD", it's just a simple tool.
So when it's all you have, you have to use it to it's fullest advantage. Worth the money for a low budget soil grow? I say YES. If anything it will keep the newbie from over watering as much.
Make note of what you have as baselines so any change from there has a point of reference. Knowing how you are effecting the grow is most important. If number accuracy is what you are after then look elsewhere.
Edit: Let me add I use the light meter to visually see the drop off in relation to distance with my various lights. To include CFL, 150w hps, 600w digital, and natural light. An example is checking the canopy penetration and how fast it drops off. Look at it like the old battery tester that told you "GOOD, FAIR, BAD", it's just a simple tool.
