To LED or not to LED

[Boss]

I completed the LED grow test, I think I had them too far away, but watt for watt, production was better under the led/cfl combo then all CFL's by a long shot. 250watts vs 450 watts, and plant size was just a bit smaller than the cfl's.

[Racefan]

I keep seeing the fact that LED's using less electricity as a major point. I could care less about that. I want to know if they grow bud instead. Has anyone had a successful grow using nothing but LED's. So far o one I know of has and those who have tried have been extremely disappointed with the results.

[Boss]

Yep, the new high outputs are coming out, but the 300w unit I looked at was $1700 bucks. But, it was a real grow light, no doubt.

[dava04]

Aside from the fact that saving electricity is not optional today, the view point of racefan (I don't mean to be harsh) is irresponsible at best, you just can't justify using 1000W of power to grow a plant thats marginally better than one grown using a quarter of that power.

The main problems from what I see with LED grow lights are, and conversely this is exactly how to choose a good one.

The intensity, choose a light with high proven MCD intensity.

The angle of the light needs, need to consider that more lights are used to cover the same area of one large HPS.

The actual shape the beam the LED creates, as not all LED lights are created equally. This means that if when you look for an LED light for growing you should test to see how the light looks when it comes out of the light, if it seems weak, then its weak and and good strong solid light is best.

Obviously these lights can grow plants, otherwise NASA would be using them, the point is that the secrets on how to use them are only just being uncovered, diligence care and research when choosing a light will reap its reward.

[Boss]

You make a good point about the 30-45 degree output. I was looking for 90's. I think they make 250 watt light bars that plug in together to make long strips that uses 3 watt LEDs. Still very expensive.

Prices are coming down pretty quickly.

[Smokin Moose]

Keep this on topic pls. I have just deleted some posts that were clearly inappropriate

[bigkolas]

If you really want to do a LED setup, you're going to have to spend a lot of money. They only worthwhile LED's that I have found on the net are:

~10 WATT
LED680-66-16100, red, 680 nm, 450 mW at 1.4 A, Uf: 7.7 V, +/-60°, TO-66 @ $173,02 ( THIS LED HAS 16 POWER CHIPS!!!)

~3 WATT
LED680-66-60, 680 nm, 500 mW at 240 mA, TO-66, 60 chips, silicone / epoxy resin @ $185,74

~3 WATT
LED690-66-60, 690 nm, 500 mW at 240 mA, TO-66, 60 chips, silicone / epoxy resin @ $185,74

~3 WATT
LED700-66-60, 700 nm, 500 mW at 240 mA, TO-66, 60 chips, silicone / epoxy resin @ $185,74

~2 WATT
TO3A4-H680-180, red, 680 nm, 260 mW at 1.2 A, Uf: 1.9 V, +/-90°, TO-3 @ $40,36

~2 WATT
TO3A4-H690-180, red, 690 nm, 260 mW at 1.2 A, Uf: 1.9 V, +/-90°, TO-3 @ $40,36

~1 WATT
H11A1-690-30, red, 690 nm, 25-30 mW at 350 mA, viewing angle 30° @ $9,06

~1 WATT
H11A1-680-30, red, 680 nm, 20-25 mW at 350 mA, viewing angle 30° @ $9,06

~1 WATT
C11A1-680-30, red, 680 nm, 20-25 mW at 350 mA, viewing angle 30° @ $8,21

~1 WATT
C11A1-690-30, red, 690 nm, 25-30 mW at 350 mA, viewing angle 30° @ $8,21

Most of them, these are from: http://www.roithner-laser.at/All_Dat...t-c-080723.pdf

There are other brands but this one has the most reasonable prices in the correct ranges for Photosynthesis. A typical halfwidth is ~20nm so that means if it's rated at 690nm you will get a range from 670-710nm. This is IDEAL for Photosystem II and Photosystem I. This will help to get max yield from a crop.

Some blue LED's are needed but not many probably a 1/10 ratio to reds.

Hopefully there is a price break for 10 or more. This is a big deal because it just might make a LED setup affordable!

Another thought is that the best deal is probably using a bunch of high power 1 WATT bulbs. This way heat wont be such an issue and also the light will be a little bit more spread out. That's just a suggestion.

Most importantly for a LED setup, get the right drivers and make sure they can power all these up with the proper current. A driver will save you $$$ when it comes to Power Factor (efficiency). Most drivers are greater than 90%.

Somewhere else it was posted that the LightBlaze was only 60%? That's HORRIBLE.

IMHO, don't waste money on a Procyon, they only use cree xlamps and in the wrong nm. Even if they are rated a 75lm, they are not the right wave length.

The only lamp that is worthwhile if you consider the price is the TI SmartLamp.

Other than that build your own and save $$$$.

If you are unsure about electronics and circuits don't do it. Also if you do, use only HIGH POWER LED's that are rated at least at 1 WATT, with 30 degree focus.

Peace,

BK

p.s. Will keep updated on prices.