Root Rot? (pictures)

Stoner25

New Member
Hey guys! Im new to this and this is my first grow and im wondering if this is root rot or is it stain from my nutes? Im using technaflora recipe for success nutrients The plants are 2 weeks and about 2 days old. If it is root rot what should I do? It kinda confuses me because the two on the right are still growing fast and the left one looks left behind. also on one pic is a leaf that has a brown spot on it, is this Mg def. or cal def.?

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I agree with fuzzy; that little brown could merely be a drop of something on the leaf. Yeah color of roots from nutes or maybe the hydroton. Nice roots in such little time.:bravo:
 
well guys it looks like the brown is getting alot worse....
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i changed the tank because i was having problems with the temp gettin up to close to 80, so now im using a cooler. if u look close u can see around the edges of the water there is brown on the sides. i already have tried putting peroxide, 2 tsp per gal. that was yesterday morning and they have gotten worse. Should i go ahead a cut the roots that are turning bad? What should i do? Dont want to Lose my babies to root rot.
 
What nutrients are you using, could simply be staining the roots, many times the micro of three parts does this.

If not that then what is the temperature of your res, root rot can often be brought on by a lack of oxygen. A lack of oxygen can be caused by water temperature, no matter how many air-stones you use, temperature of water is as important as pH of feed solution, causes lock out etc

If it is not your nutes staining, get some H2O2 and add it to a flush to see if things change.
 
The nutes I'm using is technaflora recipe for success. The temp of my water is normally between 75-80. I been having a problems with that. That's why I switched to a cooler but I'm still having problems with it. What should i do? Don't really have the money right now to buy a water holler. I'll have to take a gal out n put it in the freezer for a little bit then put it back in to get the water temp down. The temp in the closet is normally between 77-84 n the humidy stays around 35-45. Their is a few leaves on each plant that has a spot or two but that's only one leaf off each plant.
 
I came across another post in this section of the forums with some bad looking root mass, you may find useful info in their ?

Root Boogers Please Help!


Sorry i can not help any further but DWC/bubblers are not my fortitude at the moment, best of luck & i hope ya get it sorted soon :peace:



P.s Dirt growing is easyer :love:
 
What's your ph? and how does it smell? Should have a fresh smell. Are nutes new or old? Do you shake your nutes before adding? Just some things to consider.

Flip
 
Your problem is the reservoir temp It needs to be right around 68F. If not, then you are very likely to see what is going on in your reservoir.

Things that can help:
Insulate the reservoir, so it doesn't pull heat from the grow area. Wrap it in foil bubble wrap, all sides and the top.
Use some H2O or Hygrowzyme to help keep rot down.

Things that will fix it:
Buy a chiller
Built your own chiller

Until you get the temps down, pH will run amuck, and can't be trusted. The plants will start off fine, but as more root mass grows into the reservoir, the more rot will show up.
 
Yup your temp is your biggest issue.

Like I said get H2O2, and as Prairie mentioned hygrozyme will help as well. I prefer sensi-zym, find it doesn't hurt as much as hygrozyme can.

If you cannot afford a chiller, you may need to switch to soil/grow media for future grows to be successful
 
ok Thanks for all the info and helping me out, ill just break down and buy a chiller this weekend. i also need to buy a ph meter, ive been using GH ph up and down kit . when you go by the color of the water in the vail. and its normally between 5.5 and 6. and doesnt change to often. i am having problems with only one plants leaves. the others might have one or two brown spots on like one leaf but this one plant is has alot more and alot worse. what is causing this? if it is a ph problem or nutes then why is it only one plant and not the other two?

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Heres a pic of all of them the one in the back is the one with the leaf problem and the one in the front right, the roots look fine on it not like the other two from the pics earlier, a little color but not bad at all.they are almost 3 weeks old now

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The leaf problem looks like a transpiration issue or a touch of light burn ?

Basically your leafs are sweating & the heat from light is slow cooking the sweat to cause burns on them or it could be a heat spot generated from your reflector tho ?


1. Sweating normally occurs due to dense compact growth & lack of air flow around plant/canopy.

2. Heat spots, well most reflectors create a heat spot in its light distribution over an area its just a focused point of heat due to reflector design... Not much you can do about that apart from raise height of reflector for a few days & wait intill plants toughen up to light source.

Its happened to me twice now and always same location of tent, 1st week of flowering under HPS from CFL vegging .
 
I've changed it on the 5th,11th and 17th veg days.

If you can incorporate fans blowing on your res water, you can drop the temp quite a bit. Dont have plants in my setup yet but have been testing it. Lights on pump running, I was getting up to 74f. Added 2 low voltage fans, built a controller, temps stay at 64-67f now.

If you have a pump in your res, this will cause heat build up, if you have a pump that doesnt have to be submerged, run it inline instead of submerged and this will also lower temps.

Evaporation cooling works pretty good,,,,just another option to try before you spend the bucks on a chiller.

There are pics on my journal of how mine is setup..

Another option is to add another res inline, more water will keep everything more stable, you could incorporate fans on this one. If you have the extra room for another res.
 
If you can incorporate fans blowing on your res water, you can drop the temp quite a bit. Dont have plants in my setup yet but have been testing it. Lights on pump running, I was getting up to 74f. Added 2 low voltage fans, built a controller, temps stay at 64-67f now.

If you have a pump in your res, this will cause heat build up, if you have a pump that doesnt have to be submerged, run it inline instead of submerged and this will also lower temps.

Evaporation cooling works pretty good,,,,just another option to try before you spend the bucks on a chiller.

There are pics on my journal of how mine is setup..

Another option is to add another res inline, more water will keep everything more stable, you could incorporate fans on this one. If you have the extra room for another res.

Sorry, but I respectfully disagree with a couple of things there (though agree with other parts).

Blowing air across the water in the reservoir will not lower the temps enough, and likely will raise the temps (hot air across cooler water). Evaporation cooling works, but really only when your source air has a low humidity. If you live in a high humidity area, then it won't help at all.

Now moving the pump out of the reservoir helps quiet a bit. If you can do that. Some folks pull the pumps out completely once a good mass of roots have reached below the reservoir top level.

You can do the ice methods, but that means changing them out ever few hours with new ones. So some folks (like me) don't see that as a fix, just a quick patch.

If you are doing hydro, you need to insulate the reservoir from the air temps (which you want higher than the reservoir). Hot HID lamps or even enough CFL's shining onto the top of the reservoir will heat it up. I know from experience that 6 110 WATT CFL's shining on to a 15 gallon tote will raise the reservoir temps by 10F with in 6 hours. With in a day, the reservoir will be running at room air temps. while a well insulated reservoir will come up to room temps in two to three days.

If you can afford a chiller, buy one. If you can't afford one, then there are several threads on here that show how to make one. I made mine for around $150US. It will keep three 15 gallon totes right at 68F, no matter how hot the room gets.
 
I agree with fuzzy; that little brown could merely be a drop of something on the leaf. Yeah color of roots from nutes or maybe the hydroton. Nice roots in such little time.:bravo:

adding--- since this input ^^ i was reading about an issue in my grow and came across the answer to brown roots from another growers question during my search that once the roots are brown then yeah its root rot. made me think of you but I can't tell you exactly which forum i read it at other than it was here & coulda been the canna infermary . :Namaste:
 
Sorry, but I respectfully disagree with a couple of things there (though agree with other parts).

Blowing air across the water in the reservoir will not lower the temps enough, and likely will raise the temps (hot air across cooler water). Evaporation cooling works, but really only when your source air has a low humidity. If you live in a high humidity area, then it won't help at all.

Now moving the pump out of the reservoir helps quiet a bit. If you can do that. Some folks pull the pumps out completely once a good mass of roots have reached below the reservoir top level.

You can do the ice methods, but that means changing them out ever few hours with new ones. So some folks (like me) don't see that as a fix, just a quick patch.

If you are doing hydro, you need to insulate the reservoir from the air temps (which you want higher than the reservoir). Hot HID lamps or even enough CFL's shining onto the top of the reservoir will heat it up. I know from experience that 6 110 WATT CFL's shining on to a 15 gallon tote will raise the reservoir temps by 10F with in 6 hours. With in a day, the reservoir will be running at room air temps. while a well insulated reservoir will come up to room temps in two to three days.

If you can afford a chiller, buy one. If you can't afford one, then there are several threads on here that show how to make one. I made mine for around $150US. It will keep three 15 gallon totes right at 68F, no matter how hot the room gets.
You can disagree, thats all part of a discussion but being that I have used this method for the last 15 years and thousands of others who run Salt water reef tanks have had the same results,,,,well what else do you want me to say. My setup is in my journal with pictures, setup is in a humid basement. I keep my res 64-67f, without the fans its 74f.........To me, proof is in the pudding.

Pssst....you did read the part where I said its another option to try before buying a chiller?
I would just buy a chiller instead of using some hokey setup that in the long run could cost you twice as much in electric then one specifically made for said purposes. All for DIY, unless DIY becomes half ass headaches.
 
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