Homemade Miticide

RangerDanger

New Member
Ok, just read this info at another site. I have never tried it so I can't verify it's safety or effectiveness, I'm just passing along the info. What I like most about it (besides it's claimed effectiveness) is that it removes the dead mites and their eggs.
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"So far one formula has come out ahead and there are some instruction changes:

1/4 cup Baking Soda
1/2 cup Apple Cider vinegar
1 Tablespoon Lemon Juice
2 drops dish detergent
1/4 Teaspoon Epsom Salts

Take a cup of very hot water and desolve the epsom salts,take rest of ingredients and place in a clean 2 liter bottle and let work out. Add epsom solution. Add water to fill to 48ozs(3/4 full).Shake well.

TO USE: Cover soil/medium with plastic,with lights off mist plant all over,especialy under leaves,
Wait 20 mins,then spritz off with clean fresh water shaking as much water off plant as you can.
The fresh water spritz rinse will remove the solution along with the desolved remains of the mites and their eggs.

Have fun with your new "Mite Eradicator"

Note by MrFixit: Water plants 1/2 hour before spraying. This will help keep your plants from absorbing the spray.

This solution has been tested and used as directed will not burn plants,the rinse is very important though as it removes the spent solution before it can concentrate and burn the plant. It also removes most of the dead mites and eggs so you don't end up smoking them.

The formula can be diluted further,to 1 liter and it will still kill the mites but isn't as effective at dissolving and removing the mite parts.
Since removing the mite debris is desirable,I recommend the stronger solution,just remember to rinse and shake.
This formula is alkaline(about 7.8-8) so please remember to rinse.

Mite irradication is absolutely assured and guaranteed if used as directed.
I've never seen ANYTHING work this well for mite irradication!!
I used to gas my booths for mites,it worked but they came back,I haven't seen a living mite in a long time now.They haven't come back,partly because of cooler weather,partly because I hosed the Roses that were infecting everything with the formula and wiped out all the mites during testing.
The only thing I wish I'd done different is,I wish I would have done sections of the Roses and preserved
some of the mites for later tests.I've had to go searching for victims to test it on and there just aren't any left!! I did find some victims for my final tests in the park where we have meetings,the plants by the river are pretty sickly and infested(were I should say,I walked around with ONE pint bottle and cleaned up most of the area.LOL)
If news of this formula were to become widespread,mites would become an endangered species!!!So GOOD HUNTING !
Seasider"
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If this stuff is as good as claimed, this is the end of many a grower's nightmares, because mite inestations can take out an entire crop.
 
I just noticed the little bastages were making a move on my girl last night, She's on day 14 of flower and coming along sweetly other than the bugs. I'm jumping in head first here and giving it a try, being early in the onset of infestation I will still have time to get them under controll if it does'nt work. I'll let you know what happens in the next couple of days.
 
Spider mites are probally the most prevalent pest to inside growers. There are many ways to erradicate these critters but can be broken down into two types of methods. These methods are chemical or organic.

With any pest erradication program where you are depending on a chemical, be it organic or synthetic, it is best to cycle between three different pesticides for optimal results and to ensure the critters don't build an immunity to them.

Chemical

I've found that spraying with a pyrethium based spray to be very effective. Buying one that is combined with garlic would work as a repellent to these pests as well. The only problem with this is recently there have been shown to be pyrethium resistant mites. The treatment regime with this should be at least one spray a week, but no more than two. Don't think that more poison concentration will help remove them faster as it may only lead to your dissapointment as you see your plants suffer from burning. When spraying make sure that the underside of the leaves get just a much of a generous spraying as the tops.

If things have got right out of hand and nothing else seems to work you can count on flea bombs purchased from local supermarket. Be warned as they are full of dangerous poisons and the use of these should be greatly avoided within the last few weeks before harvest. The regime for these are one a week until problem solved, this is usually one week but occassionally you will need the second one. Make sure to turn off all exhaust fans for two hours from the time that the bomb is initially going off. After this two hour period is over turn back on exhaust fans and air out room thoroughly. Do this when the lights are out as a room full of fumes has a habit of exploding when a heat source or spark is present. These are so effective because the actually break into every part of the breeding cycle killing mites in all stages.

The recent success in mite eradication has come from the availability of a pesticide called Avid. Many growers swear that this is the only thing that really works without reinfestation. It is extremely important to kill them off completely and not start breeding resistant populations.

Organic

The most popular of the organic pesticides in recent times is neem oil or neem based products. These do work well in most cases. The treatment regime for these is no more than every three days and should be avoided in the last couple of weeks due to the fact that it can give the flowers a dirty flavour when consumed.

One completely chemical free way to eliminate mites is by manipulating the humidity in your grow room to above 80-90% for no more than three days. Any longer than this and you're asking for mold. This works because the mites absorb the extra moisture in the air and literally explode due to absorbtion of too much water.

Another manual way to go about things is to go in every day and give the plants a liberal spraying with plain water on both tops and bottoms of leaf sufaces. This physically knocks them of and disturbs there patterns as mites may not move for three days at a time. With this, as with the previous method, beware of mold.

With any treatment using chemicals be carefull to follow instructions and follow good safety procedure. It's not the best feeling to be stuck in bed for a day due to inhalation of chemical vapours.
 
So far so good, nearly 18 hrs since application and no adverse affects to foliage at this piont. I made the solution as above with the exception of sea salt since I had no epsom. It was nice to see that I already had everything in my kitchen, at least this way I know that I already eat what's in the spray...may as well smoke it too!!

I have now noticed a bunch (100's) of little white winged bastages in the soil, they are on the surface as well as come from the bottom of the pot in the run off after watering.
 
The big question mtlhead is, have you seen any more mites?
I don't think what you're seeing comming out of your soil is related. Mites are arachnids. Spiders don't grow wings. (thank god! LOL) It's probably just knats. What kind of soil did you use?
 
Here's another recipe:

3 Tablespoons each - isopropyl alcohol, lemon juice, garlic juice, horseradish juice, Ivory liquid

A few drops of Tobasco juice, mint oil, cinnamon oil

Mix all ingredients in a small bowl. Dilute to 1 teaspoon per pint of water and mix in a blender.

Potent bug killer!!!
 
All apears to be better than expected, the only mites i've seen were not living. keep in mind that my plant was in the first days of the onset, but yes it did eradicate the problem quickly and with no ill effects to any part of the plant.

When you mix the vinegar and baking soad, you'll see why the rinse is so important.

And the little winged guys are NOT related, but they were just noticed as well and thought I would throw it out here for input if anyone has any.
 
You mentioned the new pests are white; most likely they're whiteflies.
The same techniques work against whiteflies.

It's important to use 3 different kinds of insecticide. This is because these pest build up a resistence very quickly.
The other key is to spray 1 day with insecticide "A", the next day use plain water, the next day insecticide "B", the next day water, the next day use insecticide "C", the next day water and start again.
You need to do this for 3 weeks.

Other tips:
When using insecticide, misting works better than spraying with common kitchen/garden sprayers. You don't need to soak the leaves, just a light coating of mist. You can use a regular sprayer for the water part of the treatment.
-Make sure to get both sides of leaves.
-Wear disposible gloves and a painter's mask when mixing and application.
-And make sure TO LABEL EVERYTHING.
 
vintner said:
if it does work as well as claimed, this should be made into a skicky!

We already got a sticky on spidermites. I started it so that members can post there own techniques for killing these bastards. So, If all seems to be going well with your Miticide Ranger go ahead and post it in the sticky.
 
1/4 cup Baking Soda
1/2 cup Apple Cider vinegar
1 Tablespoon Lemon Juice
2 drops dish detergent
1/4 Teaspoon Epsom Salts

DO NOT USE THIS MIXTURE!!!
I used it today and it has RUINED my buds!
And it didn't get rid of any mites, there was no "mite debris" left on the drip cloth and there was still a large population on the plant.
DO NOT USE THIS MIXTURE!!!

I can only pray that my plant/buds will recover.
I am ridiculously annoyed by this thread.
Probably disinformation being parroted.
Watch what you spread please.

Dicofol from the garden center, tomorrow.
and a bug bomb.
 
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