Preventitive measures to avoid spidermites?

Stilletto

Well-Known Member
Well I'm infested! I have no patience to battle these bastards for the remainder of this grow. It is two weeks in flower and I have decided to trash this crop. I will cut and dispose of all the plants, then I will vacuum and clean the whole room and surrounding area with soap and water then spray everything down with bleach; then I will wash it down again and spray "bang" miticide over the whole room twice a week for three weeks.... this should kill all those little pests. Now I will be back at square one.... a clean room.
I was very anal about the cleanliness of my rooms before but when you have to rip out an entire crop it makes you wonder if you could have done more? So can I do more?
Are there any suggestions as to how NOT to have a reinfestation?
I am thinking that spraying the whole room down with miticide once a week would prevent a re-occurance?(not nessesarily spraying the plants themselves... just the room... maybe spraying the plants a little or once in a while??) This is the first time that I have got them and they came from a buddy with access to a few other gardens.... needless to say I will be the only one in contact with my plants from now on.
Sorry... back to the question at hand...
Are mites affected by enviroment.... IE: do they thrive in high or low humidity? Do they thrive in light or dark? Do they have a preference for MH or HPS? Do they prefer cold or dark? Does ozone affect them?
I have excellent enviromental control of my room and can achive any conditions that I need to in order to stop a re-occurance.
As a side note... do you think that I will have to clean the lights and carbon filter? I have two passive intakes and one forced intake(accually just a furnace register which opens at night)... what type of filter material would be good to filter the intakes? Should I go so far as spraying the filters with miticide weekly too?
I hope some of the vetrans here can help me out. I WILL NOT have this problem again. Also I had been somewhat careful about not wearing outside clothes in my room but I think I will make a habbit of puting on a white asbestos suit prior to going in and spraying it down with miticide before entering. This all seems harsh to me but I am not willing to lose another crop, I have had much success in this hobby and this is the first time I have had ANY problems.
So again the question is.... What preventitive measures can be taken to ensure that I never see another spidermite?

Thanx in advance for any help.

Jonny
 
If you have a dog or a cat that goes outside make sure they get weekly bug-kill sprays 'cause they can bring mites or mite eggs into the home.

Make sure your fresh air intake does not come from directly outside.

Spray Neem and Karanja oil on your plants once a week whether they need it or not.

Peace
MC
 
Good point MC... I have 9 cats that do go outside but they do not go near the room. They might indeed bring some into the house??? I find that unlikely though as it has been winter here for months and even durring the summers I have not had this problem.... BTW... what type of "bug- kill sprays" could I use on pets? I certainly can't imagine putting any chemicals on my kitties?
I do not have a direct intake from outside.
Would spraying the plants weekly or often lead to mold problems? I would prefer to not substitute mites for mold?
BTW... I do not have ANY house plants.
Thanx so far...

Jonny
 
madamecrash said:
Spray Neem and Karanja oil on your plants once a week whether they need it or not.
Peace
MC
Haven't heard of this stuff - I'm sure I can find it online. Does doing this affect the smell/flavor of the final product, and do you use it all the way through harvest?
 
Here's a few tips:
-Don't bring any "stray" plants into the growroom without giving them a 2 or 3 week quarentine 1st.
-ALWAYS wash your hands before going into the growroom.
-Mites--indeed most insects--build up a resistance to certain types of insecticides rapidly. You need 3 types of insecticides and rotate their use. Pyrethium and neem-oil based are 2 types. Insecticidal soap is another one. Make sure they are non-toxic to humans. Use a light mist of them every week, followed the next day with plain water. But don't use them during flowering.
-Mite eggs can hide in the smallest crevices, therefore the floor should be either linolium or put a tarp down.
-Mites thrive in warm environments. Keeping temps at 65--70F will reduce their reproduction rate.
-Have a pair of overalls that you only wear in the growroom.
-Inspect the plants weekly, especially the undersides of leaves.
-Avoid having the plants touch or almost touch each other. And use sticky tape (available at large plant nurseries) on the planters. This will keep the mites from spreading from plant to plant in case some gets in.

Of these tips, the 1st is the most important. The most common way for mites to get inside in by hitchhiking on an infested plant.

P.S. I'm sorry for your loss. Believe me I've been there. I once had to close down all 4 chambers in my growroom--donor (moms), rooting area, veg and flowering and start all over from seeds.
 
RangerDanger said:
Here's a few tips:
-Mites--indeed most insects--build up a resistance to certain types of insecticides rapidly. You need 3 types of insecticides and rotate their use. Pyrethium and neem-oil based are 2 types. Insecticidal soap is another one. Make sure they are non-toxic to humans. Use a light mist of them every week, followed the next day with plain water. But don't use them during flowering.
If I have 3 ounces Neem oil and 3 ounces Karanja oil, what can I dilute them with so that I don't run out so fast?
 
One tip when cleaning your room to remove any strays...use a pyrethrum fogger at one point in the cleaning. The fogger will enter small crevices easier than a spray will. I'm not too hip on spraying plants with poisons as a preventative measure, no matter how organic or safe they are because I think that is one thing that helps insects and bugs develope a resistance easier.
I've fought mites a few times and won so I know you can beat these things. I used one treatment of "mite-rid" (neem based poison) up to 10 or 15 days into flower and never saw a mite again. I wouldn't use any type of poison after that.
 
I researched some preventitive measures of spidermites. None of these things are from my own experience however.

Biocontrol of red and 2 spot (virtually the same mite) can be done with both
predatory mites and a midge called Feltiella acarasuga (sp.). P. persimilis is
good at controlling mites, Feltiella works well also. The predatory midge shows
a tendency to remain in the pupal form until spider mite populations increase
again, the adults feed on pollen and honeydew and lay their eggs IN the spider
mite infestation. P. persimilis is blind and has to find the mite infestation
and will die off when the mite population is wiped out. A. degenerens, fallacis
and californicus do well with mites as well.

Despite it's cost, Avid is a very good miticide. It is translaminar, meaning
that it is locally systemic. Good coverage of at least the upper leaf surface
will work on mites, the A.I. (active ingredient) will be absorbed by the leaf
and will translocate to the other side of the leaf (upper to lower).

Another possible control is the use of horticultural grade sulphur. I had a
flat mite infestation not too long ago and could not afford Avid. I did some
research and found that sulphur will kill some species of mites, including flat
mites. I have so far only done one spray and the kill rate was about 95%. I'm
going to do another suplhur spray tomorrow to kill off the eggs that hatched
after the initial spray.

If you want to stay bio and not go chemical, I'd recommend using a few of the
above mentioned biocontrols. In my experience, you are better off to use more
than one bio, simply because they all have different requirements in order for
them to succeed.



Lime Sulphur [Later's, Green Earth, Green Cross, C-I-L brands]* Contains a calcium sulphur compound; controls fungi, also mites and some insects; no residual effects.

* Used as dormant spray or growing season spray for fungal diseases; also for scales, spider mites, rust mites, aphids, mealybugs, peach borers.

* Phytotoxic to most actively growing plants; use growing season spray only on plants listed on label and at the correct dilution.

* Moderate toxicity to mammals, bees, birds, toxic to beneficial mites.
 
Some more info from another site.



Integrated pest management (IPM) is an eco-sensitive way to manage pests of all kinds in the garden and landscape. It is an approach that focuses on preventing pest problems by growing healthy plants in well-designed landscapes. If pests do occur, there are a variety of ways to manage pests safely and effectively.


Prevention is the cornerstone of IPM. This means choosing the right plant for the right place, using pest-resistant varieties, looking after soil fertility and watering properly. "Look before you leap" is a rule to live by in IPM. This means regularly checking plants for damage and making sure that suspected pests are correctly identified before taking any action. This is important because similar damage can have different causes (not all of them pests!). Also, many insects found on plants are beneficial – they are there because they are eating the pests. If treatment is needed, there are many different methods, including:
biological controls: beneficial insects, nematodes and microorganisms that attack pests are sold at some local garden centres;
physical controls: floating row covers, screens, sticky traps (for insects), mulches, hot water, hand pulling (for weeds);
cultural controls: using resistant varieties, crop rotation, and pruning;
chemical controls: naturally occurring or synthetic pesticides.
Using Pesticides
There are many different kinds of pesticides (insecticides, herbicides, fungicides, etc.) with active ingredients that range from the extremely poisonous to the completely non-toxic. If other methods do not keep pest numbers down to acceptable levels, you may need to use a pesticide. If so, then choose the least toxic, low-risk product and limit its use to the plant that has the problem.

Bacillus thuringiensis (Kurstaki) or Btk

Soil bacteria which produce spores and protein crystals that when ingested, kill caterpillars. However, Btk is non-toxic to other insects, animals and people. Used on leaf-eating caterpillars in greenhouses and gardens.

Dormant and Summer Oils

Mineral oil acts on contact via the suffocation and disruption of the target insects' physical processes. Dormant oil is used for over-wintering eggs of aphids, some moths, mealy bugs, pear psylla, pear and rose slugs, scale, spider mites and is best applied to deciduous woody trees and shrubs after leaves drop and before the new growth starts. Summer oil is used on mealy bugs, rust mites, scale, spider mites, and white flies. Check label or test spray to see if the plant is oil tolerant.

Insecticidal Soap

Biodegradable fatty acids that act on contact against insects and mites; used on aphids, earwigs, mealy bugs, pear and rose slugs, psyllids, scale, spider mites, white flies and other insects; outdoors and indoors. Such soap is phytotoxic to some plants, so check the label first.

Silicon Dioxide (Diatomaceous Earth)

Ground-up fossilized shells of diatoms; acts on contact on most insects by piercing their skin and causing them to dry up. Non-toxic to people, animals, birds, fish and earthworms. Limit use on outdoor plants to spot treatments.

Pyrethrins

Extracted from pyrethrum daisies, this pesticide acts on contact; used for crawling and flying insects on plants, pets, in structures, indoors and outdoors. Modest toxicity. Avoid inhalation or contact with skin or eyes.

Fatty Acid Herbicide

Fatty-acid compound that acts on contact to kill foliage of plants. Used to control annuals and/or provide suppression or top-kill of some perennials. Avoid spray drift on desirable plants.

Sulphur

Sulphur provides broad spectrum control for fungi and mites. Use on foliage for black knot, black spot, leaf spots, powdery mildew, rusts, apple and pear scab and others. Also controls russet and rust mites. Use only on plants tolerant to sulphur.

Lime Sulphur

Calcium sulphur compound; used for control of fungi, mites and some insects; used as a dormant spray or growing-season spray for fungal diseases as well as scales, spider mites, rust mites, aphids mealybugs, and peach borers. Phytotoxic to most actively growing plants. Check label and use in correct dilution.

Pesticide Safety Tip

Before you use any pesticide, it is critical that you read the label and throughly understand what the product contains in terms of active ingredients, instructions, cautions, safe handling and proper disposal.​
 
Wow, thanx everyone! Stix... that is some great info! I've spent a week looking for as much info as I could but you went above and beyond.
I was wondering if anyone had answers to my questions about humidity, ozone, or light?
Just for an update.... I disposed of all the plants. I took everything out of my room; lights, fans, filters, pots, trays, ozonator, cords... everything... and vacuumed, washed and bleached them, then I sprayed miticide on everything and then washed it down again. It is now being stored in sealed boxes outside in -20c temps till the room is ready.
The room itself is a 5x4x6h b+w poly room in a spare room (no carpets or curtains or such). 1000 cfm fan w/carbon filter. 1 400w MH and 1 400w HPS. Beside that is a 4x4x4 sealed veg chamber w seperatre intake and shared exaust, 2 4' double flo balasts. Also on top of the veg chamber is a 2x2x3 drying cabinet with it's own intake and exausted pacively from the main chamber. (you will have to picture it in your head as I am still not comfortable posting pics here.)
After cleaning both chambers I emptied and cleaned the spare room. I then sprayed "Dr. DOOM" incecticide everywhere. I waited two days and heavily sprayed a strong bleach solution on everything and then cleaned all of that up. I have now once again sprayed "Dr. Doom" in the chambers again. I plan on repeating this process every 4 days for one month to ensure all eggs have hatched etc. Prior to putting in a new crop I will spray everything down with "Safers" spidermite incecticide and twice a month I will empty the chambers and fully clean and re-spray them. I feel that this is just the kind of overkill that I needed to eradicate these damn pests forever.
I am lucky in that one of my friends has a room that is free of bugs and I should have no problems getting new clones. They WILL be under quarantine for a while first. I had been very successful with this strain of AK-47 and I have had to destroy all of the mothers too.... but I had given a clone to my pal and since his room is clean I am happy to say that the strain lives on! BTW if you have not played with the AK-47 yet... try it out it is very nice to grow and I keep wanting to go to a new strain but I can't see getting anything better in regards to quality and yeild. Great strain!
FYI... I must thank you all, I knew what needed to be done but I was looking to get conformation from other experienced vetrans. I do not post much here although I visit 3 or 4 times a day. I think I have literally read every post here and honestly feel that I know all of you just from reading all of your posts. This is truly a great board with some good folks who share a similar passion. Keep[ up the good work, I will try to join in a little more often.

Regards,

Jonny
 
When hanging a "no-pest strip" in your grow room....Where do you hang it? How close to plants should it be? Looking to aid in spidermite control. TKS Red
 
well stilletto i do know that spider mites dont like high humidity and if the humidity reaches somewhere between 60% to 80% it will make the little bastards explode!!!
also the hotter it is in your room the faster they will reproduce!!!
 
hey red cricket as far as pest stips go they are not for and dont work with spider mites dude they are more for flying insects misters!!
 
Spider mites primarily thrive in warm, dry areas in temperatures of at least 85 degrees Fahrenheit (29.44 degrees Celsius) and in humidity levels of less than 60 percent. Spider mites cannot survive in environments that are extremely cold, wet, and humid. To prevent spider mites from infesting your plants, you must keep your plants hydrated, moist, and stored in a humid environment. Trouble is, your concerns in regards to mold increases.
 
If I have 3 ounces Neem oil and 3 ounces Karanja oil, what can I dilute them with so that I don't run out so fast?

I buy Neem oil concentrate which I mix 2tbls / gal of water.
Spider mites are very simple critters, they do not have a nervous system or lungs so insecticides will not work.

Miteacides, like Avid and Flourmite work well, but require rotation to avoid building up resistance, (creating 'borg' mites). Avid can be applied to top side of leaves, much easier to use. Flourmite must be applied to bottom side to be affective. Both can be used up to a month prior to harvest, although I only use them in veg.

Neem Oil and Safe Soap are not poison. They kill the mites by suffocation, which is why they must be applied directly to the critters. Mites breath thru openings in their backs, pumping air when they walk. Both can be applied, (without negative affects), up to a week before harvest.
 
I love Mighty Wash for spider mites. It's expensive but it usually works with just one good application. I do weekly cleaning with bleach water and insecticidal soap monthly whether they need it or not to catch anything other than spider mites. This regimen has worked very well to avoid any need for all out war. I would never trash my plants because of spider mites, there are too many ways to get rid of the bastards, it just takes diligence.
 
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