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Emilya
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  • Emilya ... thank you for all your work towards helping people grow.

    I wanted to ask if you had a watering schedule or process for seedlings in small containers or solo cups? I'm currently weighing, and gradually scaling my water in grams from a 10g spray on the planting spot (where the seedling from a soak/paper towel sprout method had been planted root down), misting to keep damp, when it sprouts and weight goes under inital "soil from bag" weight, I squirt 10g at the stem, in about a day its back under dry weight again so I then use your "outer edge" method around the edge of the cup and using a squirt bottle I add 35g h2o. I'm getting excellent results but I'm curious where to go from here. At this point they have 2 true leaves and the 2nd set is coming in. Would you suggest continuing to raise the water weight up progessively to saturation? I worry saturating a solo could stunt the seedling and interrupt a speedy wet/dry cycle. I also read many people use a "shot glass worth" so I weighed that and its 50g. Thats about 15 grams h2o above what I'm currently watering. Perhaps thats the sweet spot for a solo seedling? Or stabilize the plants by giving what they need to be ready for water again in 3 days, establishing a 3 day wet/dry cycle? Or perhaps apply your surface spraying technique to encourage side rooting while letting the lower soil dry out more than I am now?

    I'm very cautious as Ive overwatered before so I'm trying to dial in a process I can repeat reliably.

    Curious what you would suggest and thank you!
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    Emilya
    Emilya
    Or perhaps apply your surface spraying technique to encourage side rooting while letting the lower soil dry out more than I am now?
    You have answered your own question. When the bottom is retaining water and you are waiting for the roots to deal with it, water the edges. It appears that I did cover how to properly do this.
    So why would you worry that saturating soil would somehow stunt a seedling? Is this maybe an assumption on your part, and one based on what, maybe gut feeling?
    By the time the seedling is up and starting to put out its leaves, you will continue to spray it twice a day while it is still floating around, and then once a day after the sprig seems to be locked into place. Then the rule is to spray out to 3x the diameter of the plant. At first, this is right on the plant, and the same area you were watering the seed at. So this area in the middle is starting to get wet, all the way to the bottom. The tap root is following this water, and when it finds the bottom, it will turn 90 degrees and spread out along the bottom. At this point, the plant is fairly well locked into place and it stops swimming around every time you get it wet. This is task #1 of the new plant... hitting the bottom, testing its limits as it were. Task #2 is to start throwing out surface area and start doubling and redoubling the amount of photosynthesis going on, while still building more roots at the same time. The leaves work during the day and during the night that stored energy and raw building material goes into building roots. Soon, within days, the diameter of the new plant x3 will reach the outer edges, and after all of this spraying every day, the soil will be quite wet... and nearly saturated. Now it is time to let the roots do their thing, to drain that cup. It may take a few days to do... maybe up to 5 days... but you never want a plant to sit more than 3 days without some new input. On that third day, I water with just a bit... really trying to limit how much more water I am adding, but I water the outside edges, just enough to make them wet. This might add another day to the first draining of the cup, but it also entices the top spreader roots to grow laterally, toward those edges and that water. By the time another 3 days has elapsed or before, the plants will have used all of the water, and they will probably be ready for their first full watering to saturation. This moment should be logged, and then you start your first official wet/dry cycle timer, and you can then watch your roots get stronger and stronger as the cup will start draining the water faster and faster with each cycle. My plants usually get huge and up to the 4th node or better before they can drain that cup in a day, but with this aggressive watering this happens in about a week and a half to two weeks, and then you uppot and repeat this process, trying to see if you can get ready to uppot to your final container, or the next stage, in the next two weeks. If you can go through two steps and move to your final container in a month, you have the process down.

    Regarding weighing... some people need to see physical proof that the container still holds a significant amount of water. They say, it is light, so I need to water, when there is actually 50 to 100 grams of water still in the bottom of the cup. A scale lets a skeptical grower actually see the number, being able to compare a similar cup with dry soil with what is being dealt with. A little postal scale in the veg room is quite an effective training aid and I bet that anyone who hasn't tried it would be shocked how much water remains when they honestly believed that it was as dry as the Sahara Desert.
    S
    squarewaves
    Sweet. Appreciate the thoughtful input.

    I'm using a scale and its been incredibly helpful. I know exactly whats going in, and I know when its been used up or evaporated.

    To answer your question at the beginning about why I worry about saturating the soil being harmful to the seedling ... I just stunted 4 seeds I had planned for this grow and it seems pretty fair to assume they were overwatered. I was watering them too much thinking its hard to overwater in a solo, but I lost those 4. So now I'm on a quest to really dial in this early phase and not waste seeds. They exhibited all the symptoms of overwatering and were not responding to a correction. Since I've been weighing things, my seedlings look great, so it seems like I'm on a good path. I like a process that can be replicated once I know its working. As I imagine you do as well :)

    So can I say its safe to assume your tutorial on watering a seed in its final pot can also be applied to a solo cup or small planter as well?

    Thank you again, I appreciate your time and help ❤
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    Emilya
    Emilya
    yep, the idea of the wet/dry cycle is valid all through the grow... it just changes a little in bloom
    Hi Emilya , Thank you for great information.i have learned how to water cannabis from you when i stated grow my first plant.
    Hi Emilya, I was hoping you can give me direction in my first grow with an auto flower? My plan was to start in a 1gal pot and then transplant to the final 5gal cloth pot. I'm not sure if by waiting for the 1gal to get a good size rootball might be too late to transplant? The alternative is to go from a Dixie cup to a 1gal then to the 5gal or just skip the 1gal altogether? What are your thoughts?
    Thanks in advance.
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    Emilya
    Emilya
    if you are monitoring water usage and watering properly, the plants will still tell you when it is time... it just happens faster with an auto. The very first time the plants can suck down all the water you can get that container to take (of any size) in 24-36 hours, it is time to uppot. Stay alert, the first time can sneak up on you fast and then after that the plant will slow down and not be able to achieve that benchmark for a significant extra amount of time, because the roots have gotten in each other's way. It is a classic example of diminishing returns.
    Renaissance Man
    Renaissance Man
    Thank you! That is the answer I was hoping to get! Happy growing!
    Sorry if I'm botherin you. I just didn't want this on that post I put well cause I have my reasons,but I do appreciate you & the words. I have to say this I friggin cried. I'm sorry.
    Emilya
    Emilya
    you are not bothering me and just let me know if there is anything you want an honest and direct answer to. I am sort of known for calling them the way I see it. Once you get up to 50 posts you can then avail yourself of the private messaging system, if you would like to be even more private.
    ChoochChooch63
    ChoochChooch63
    Like I told the other fellow,I don't like to play much & if I say something you'll know I mean it I like a straight shooter like me. I'm not sure bout the 50 post thing I don't talk much like I told the other fellow. I only talk to my plants. There's nobody else so yeah I think 50 is alot for me but I wont say anything where others can pick apart to suit there interpretation of what Im sayin. I think way to far out of the box for most ppl. Anywho your Awesome to bad I couldn't have met you another way. Thanks sweetie. Oh I'm always here to,greenhouse TV or burning.✌
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    Hi Emilya,

    So new to the forum and Marijuana as well. Someone suggested I reach out to you for input on my thread (link below). Funny, looking at one of your recent threads I noticed it seems like you're picking up the Reef Aquarium hobby?!? I'm a seasoned veteran of the hobby for almost 20 years now. I'll trade ya advice, in kind? :) Always love helping out fellow hobbyists.

    Would love to someday take up growing. For now just need help consuming... Here's my thread outlining advice needed...


    Bryan
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    Emilya
    Emilya
    Hi Bryher! I will comment on your thread. Yes, been a reefer for about 10 years, but recently moved to a new house and had to start over with the tank. I downsized everything quite a bit and now only have a 40B and a 10g refugium going, and after 4 months it seems to have stabilized quite well. I am at the point now where I would love to introduce some more pricy livestock into the tank, but the age of the tank has me holding off for another 6 months or so. At the moment I am happy with my cleaning crew of multiple types of snails and hermits, 2 clowns, 2 damsels, 1 blenny and 2 anemones', not to mention 2 or 3 young starfish that came in on living rock as I built the aquarium.
    Hi Emilya, hope you well.
    I Have a question :
    I have planted a lemon haze 3 month ago, I thought it is Autoflower but actually i hve found that it is periodic one :(
    So i did not any topping o fiming training on her ...Due to Autos do not like Training cause of getting stress.
    Now i have a beautiful Christmas tree, what can i do with it ? Cut the main tall one n clone it?
    Hi. I'm using Kind Soil. I have Happy Frog to add ontop this time. I usually do 5 gallon plastic containers. I think I'm going to use 10 gallon or at least 7 gallon containers this time. I just haven't grown any bud that came out good yet final results with this method yet. I must keep doing something wrong. Anyways my question is, how do I get the proper water source for this super soil, where the chlorine and or chloramine won't kill the microbes. Reverse Osmosis seems like the simple solution but I've read that this takes out needed minerals and chelates them from the soil/plant or something like this. I've also learned that you can bubble out chlorine but you can't get rid of chlromaine that way. You have to chemically detach it and even then you detach the chlorine from the ammonia molecule and the ammonia is still floating around? Will ascorbic acid aka vitamin or humic acid remove chloramine? Will adding acid every watering make the ph go off. Etc etc. Its a nightmare trying to figure out what's the right way to go about proper water.
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    Emilya
    Emilya
    Hi Doc... RO is definitely the way to go, just have some calmag handy in case you need it... the magnesium in the tap water is the only mineral you will really miss by using the filtered water. You can treat tap water effectively too... the ascorbic acid trick does remove chlorine and chloramine. The small amount needed is not going to significantly change the pH of your water and in an organic grow, your need to adjust pH to a narrow range is not necessary... the only reason we adjust pH is for when we use synthetic nutes... you are not, so you don't need to adjust pH.
    Emilya ... I'm not sure if u will get this, but the last time I had a question after you answered it I literally had no more questions on the subject. I'm hoping you can help me with this problem I have now. I had just transplanted seedlings from solo cups to a 1 gal fabric pot. A few days later I noticed that a crazy amount of roots were coming through the bottom of the pots some of the roots longer than 5 or 6 inches... And that was only about 3 days after transplanting them.. it's been about 8 days now and the problem is getting worse... When I had transplanted them I had moved them under better lights and in a new tent plus I was having trouble keeping the temps down.... So for the first few days they looked stunted and I didn't no exactly why.. whether it was the heat the lights intensity or closeness or from the transplanting.... So I was kind of bummed out and was just patiently watching and making little Tweeks.... Now though even though they have only been in the new containers for a week I def have to transplant them again... I have already transplanted one of them a lot of roots were ripped off from the bottom but not even 24 hours later it is doing even better than before the second transplanting.... That one plant though didn't have as many roots coming out as some of the others... That being said it still has a ton coming out... I'm still nervous about how I am gonna transplant the rest of them part of me wants to cut the sides of the pot off and just replant the plant with the bottom of the pot still on in the new pot.... What do you think I should do? I'm not sure you will get this but if you do and you need pics I will send.... Thanks your the best
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    RetiredRN
    RetiredRN
    @Emilya is another way to call her in a post so she will see it.
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    Emilya
    Emilya
    Hi Grimy... first let me say that just because some of the roots are coming out of the bottom, is NOT a valid reason to uppot. I know this is commonly believed, but it makes no sense when you realize that the reason we stay in the smaller containers is to force the plant to grow a rootball, completely filling that container before moving on to the next bigger size. You call the roots coming out a problem, but I do not. Just let those roots that hit the air die, and move on. When you make a lot of changes to a plant in a short amount of time, you can sometimes stunt it. Just slow down... you are moving at light speed compared to the plants. Cloth containers are cheap and anything less than 3 gallon size I just cut down two sides and peel the plant out of there. Larger containers that I want to re-use, I carefully roll the sides down until I expose the rootball. If you are trying to transplant too early, the soil will not hold together and its going to be a mess... the only way to do this would be to cut them out of there.
    So I would never consider transplanting until the plant has enough roots that it can drain that container of every bit of water you can get the soil to hold, in one day. If the plant has not reached that point, then it is not time to transplant.
    Thank you so much for commenting on my post, do you have a recommendation for running my tsw 2000 in a 4x4 tent? I've been having so much trouble finding a decent answer even mars hydro doesnt have a consistent answer for height and brightness
    Emilya
    Emilya
    I have never run one of those lights, so I have no idea how best to run it, sorry. I suggest getting a good light meter, because lighting needs change all throughout the grow.
    Ljb1
    Ljb1
    I run that light in a 3x3 bud
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    Hi there! New user here, and I've been told that you are quite smart with organic nutes. I'm new to the game myself , and have No clue about nutes in general. I was told to try geo flora 2 part, any further information would be much appreciated! Thank you much!
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    Emilya
    Emilya
    Hi M... yes, I fully endorse the @GeoFlora Nutrients product. This is by far the easiest and most effective organic nutrient / growing system I have tried. There are lots of ways to organically feed our plants, but there is none as easy and trouble free as Geoflora. You can see the results in both of my current grow journals... the stuff grows great pot, with nothing else needed!
    Thank you very kindly for all of the great literature you created in this space...Cheers!
    Hi. I decided to stop by, and say thank you for following me! How have you been? Long time since we’ve talked. Since the day Is stopped by your watering guide! I have this new outdoor grow journal going on. Come by, and check It out. You won’t be disspointed!
    Emilya
    Emilya
    Thank you! I have checked into your journal and all is looking great! I have been doing well and now enjoying the Girl Scout Cookies comparison grow... check out what is going on in there!
    ChronicTrees
    ChronicTrees
    About to do that now! Thank you for coming by, and checking the journal out! Greatly appreciated!
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    Hi emilya,
    Im having a problem with watering, there starting to look over watered and really droopy. What can i do to help them get back to there healthy state? There in coco atm
    Emilya
    Emilya
    all of my watering advice has to do with soil... I have never grown in coco, so I can only tell you what I have heard. I have heard that you can not overwater coco, and that some people water coco several times a day. My suggestion is to find one of the many how to grow in coco threads on this forum and read it from front to back. Good luck!
    Hey emilya, hope you doin well.
    Im having a problem with germination; i hve started two seeds in glass of water n paper towel method, at first both of them cracked n tap root popped out after 1 day one of the seeds tap root look a lil yellow color n shorter than other one, it seemed that the shell is too hard n not letting the tap root get out of the shell, then i i hve attempted a risky shiii... n tried to use a blade to help the seed to cut the shell, i hold the seed with my fingers n i saw the tap root fell down, not with blade, it fell Then I panicked n kept it in paper towel ‍♂️ Any hope?
    hi emilya,
    i am getting ready to start up my first grow using geoflora, does the geoflora add microbes or does the soil have them already, or both? it is also my first grow using full spectrum lighting and i saw it mentioned that extra cal mag may be needed using the full spectrum lights - is this your experience as well? are there any tips or pitfalls you could give using the geoflora?

    thanks billy
    Emilya
    Emilya
    Hi Billy.... Geoflora has the microbes that come in with each watering. It does not matter if there are any in the soil or not. Some strains need extra cal or mag under good lights, and others don't. Only use extra when you see a need for it, not automatically. It is actually hard to remember when to apply the geoflora every two weeks... keep good track of your dates.
    Hi Emilya,

    From what i have read in your comments you seem to know quit a bit about the "Growing game" ...at least it gives me confidence in asking this question, i have always grown with just PH and EC Meters and had some great results however i'm looking for ways to up my game and i'm seriously considering buying a PPM Meter...Now because i'm totally new to growing using PPM i was looking for a bit of guidance about the values i need to adhere to and at what stage...Would you be willing to help me out a bit??

    Now i grow mainly from seeds under two TL T-5 bulbs until they are big enough to Flower at which stage they move under a HPS-400 Watt

    Hope this gives you enough to go on, if not just ask and i'll give the info to the best of my ability
    Thanks in advance and
    Greetings from Holland
    Purple H
    Emilya
    Emilya
    Greetings from Missouri Purple H! If you are growing in a water based system (hydro of any flavor) ppm is very important to you. Most hydro growers use filtered water so that they know exactly how much is in it as far as minerals go, and then a ppm reading can tell them pretty closely how many nutes are mixed in the water. Since water is the medium holding the nutrients, the ppm of the additions is useful information, however in soil, nutrients can be captured and held by the soil for later use and the soil is a buffer when it comes to the nutrients, so a ppm reading of either the input or the runoff is not nearly as useful. In soil most growers don't even own a ppm meter, and they simply add nutrients in so many ml/L and call it good.
    Now, you didn't say whether you were growing in soil or a hydro type system. If you are in hydro and have the need for measuring ec or ppm, I think you will find that one of them is usually more accurate than the other. I will leave it to you to do that research. If you are in soil, put the ec/ppm meter away, and in certain circumstances, you can also get rid of your pH meter. Growing weed does not need to be as difficult as some people like to make it seem.
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    Purplehazer
    Purplehazer
    Ow i thought i mentioned i grew on Cocos ...Sorry about that:oops: and your right in my 30 years of growing experience i found that "keep it simple... stupid!!"usually works best

    Thanks and have a nice one
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    Do I need to add cal mag if I’m growing autoflower in mother earth mixed with nature’s living super soil and great white
    BakedARea
    BakedARea
    :laugh: Nothing right now...I'm not growing anything yet! :nervous-guy: After issues the past 2 seasons, I really need to get my ass into proactive mode instead of waiting to see issues.
    Emilya
    Emilya
    Sorry, but there are some things that are best not being handled in a proactive way. The problem is that if there is too much magnesium in the soil, it blocks access to other very important nutrients. It would be easy to preload soil with enough Mg for the entire grow, but to do so would lockout potassium and calcium. All things in moderation... there is a reason we apply magnesium as a supplement, and why it is common to add calcium to the mix.
    BakedARea
    BakedARea
    Yeah...makes sense. Urgh...
    Hey Em,
    Was just thinking to companion plant some marigolds in my tent to keep away aphids (which I always seems to get). I havent seen any in the tent but just want to pre-empt any attacks for this grow.....what do you think?...Ab
    Emilya
    Emilya
    I have never tried them indoors, but they do work to repel pests of several kinds outdoors in the garden... I think they would make great companion plants!
    Antonio Bandido
    Antonio Bandido
    planted some today so will let you know how it gets along:) thanks as always....have a great weekend...Ab
    Southerncough
    Southerncough
    I'm attempting it at the moment for the same reason and last night found them infested with spider mites! Guess they don't repel spider mites but attract them instead?? Then again i live in the land of stubborn, mutant creepy crawlies
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