• Much love & light to you, Emilya. I just read about your Dad, and I'm so sorry for your loss. He was wonderful to talk to last summer when you were testing your Stone. I understand that he was so much a part of your life, not just as your Dad, but also your housemate, your ears and your voice at times. I hope you are able to take joy in your memories, which will always keep him by your side. I lost my Dad 12 years ago, and I miss him awfully. But I also feel him still with me so often with a song, a smell, a place. Be well.
    I was on leave for some time now and came back on here to check on everyone and started to do some growing. Stop by to say hello to "The Water Queen" and I seen what happen to her and my heart 💔just stop a beat, hoping the best for her and her future and so sorry for her loss. 💔 She is the sole reason I water till this day after reading her post...If you are reading this or get wind you will truly be missed and hope is all well...LOVE AND MISS YOU DEARLY 💔💔
    Emilya asked me to let you all know what's she's been up to. She's ok and safe in her apartment, but life for her has drastically changed. With the loss of her father and partner/roommate, she's having to work more to make ends meet and simply doesn't have the time or passion right now to rejoin us. The grow house belonged to her dad, so she has nowhere to grow and she just doesn't feel the same without it. She wishes everyone a Happy New Year and will be back when the time is right. Please join me in sending her lots of love and positive healing energy through the universe :love::Namaste:
    Emilya.....The girl is pretty much my sole reason for visiting here. I sure do hope she still has that certain someone to hug her.
    Love Light and Peace.
    Emilya asked me to let you all know where she's been, so nobody worries. Her father got diagnosed with an aggressive COPD, with only a month to live. So her and the family rallied around him to send him off in style. Unfortunately, she was unable to get a loan for the house, so she's being forced to relocate and is unsure of her future growing plans until resolved. Once she's done grieving and has settled into her new environment, she'll resurface and come back home. Please join me in sending her some love and healing energy until she does :love::Namaste:
    It’s been a few years, but I was looking for a very popular soil mix thread that apparently has been deleted. Does anyone know how to point me in the right direction? Unfortunately, time has unleashed its artillery on my memory. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

    Thank you.
    Emilya Green
    Emilya Green
    I responded to your PM also...
    I don't think that any soil threads have been deleted. It would help if you could remember something about it; like was it for a supersoil or just a regular soil that needed to have fertilizer added during the grow?
    Dear Emilya,

    Really loved your article about watering!

    Can you please advise on proper watering of a substrate which is based on peat moss, coir and bark?

    The company that makes it advises a 30% wet ration and smaller amounts of regular watering, I don't get how to apply that to cannabis properly.

    I've only planted my seeds directly 2 days ago and did a brief amount of watering.
    Thanks in advance! :green_heart:
    Emilya Green
    Emilya Green
    Hi pH! The problem is that you are in a soilless medium and unlike soil it has no way to save nutrients for later, so much like hydro, you should feed your plants with every watering and you should water a couple of times a day just to keep the medium wet. This gives you several advantages, mostly that like a hydro grow you will see very rapid growth because the plants are being fertilized constantly. This constant feed will create lots of salts building up in the medium if you use synthetic nutrients so you will have to flush periodically to clean the mess up.
    Bill284
    Bill284
    Sounds similar to a BX type product.
    Those are usually fed daily to run off at 5.8 ph with calmag in your plain water first.
    Once they get bigger.
    If you want to meet everyone and say hi here is a link
    If you want to show pics and ask questions here is another.
    Hope you enjoy yourself here my friend @pH Calibrated
    Take care.
    i know that you switched to using SIPs but still using GeoFlora - you only top water during the geo feeding. so about how much water during the feeding to activate the geo in what size of pot that you are using?
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    Emilya Green
    Emilya Green
    I top water once each week with the Geoflora... once upon the initial application and then on the week between feedings. I have a 3 cup watering pitcher that I like to use and I know that 3 of these pitchers will be enough to create runoff in a normal top fed 7 gallon cloth sided container. Purposely, in a SIP I don't want to create runoff into the rez, but yet I want to apply enough water so that I soak into the soil what is released from the topfed Geoflora. I stop at 2 of my watering pitchers spaced apart by several minutes. This seems to be enough to do what needs to be done to get the Geoflora working, but yet not enough to overload the water gradient set up in the SIP. My answer then, is in whatever sized container you are using, when top watering, water just short of what would be enough to create runoff.
    B
    billy13778
    thank you for the detailed information - your the bomb
    High E'm

    well somethings have changed after talking with you , you sparked my intrest in going real organic for my current grow I am going to be using Indicanja from purple cow organics it is a one and done living soil But I am really thinking about building subcools 100 gal recipe or maybe use Build a soil. any way My question has to do with SNS209 . do you add it as a top watering or do you add it to the reservoir of your SIP? Im doing everything in power to keep gnats out I am adding some Neem cake to the soil mix and the sns 209 and a little food grade DE in the soil BUG FREE ZONE!!
    tHX eM HAVE A GREAT DAY
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    Emilya Green
    Emilya Green
    I recommend something that is actually proven to work, not just drive them away. Get some 203... end of problem
    Savvage61
    Savvage61
    I got 203 and 209 I was talking to the botanist who came up with the recipe for indicanja he is also a plant biologist he is a super nice guy who lives so far out in the UP of Michigan they have to pump sunshine thru a pipeline to get day light. and way when I asked him about what he adds or recommends to add for bugs his reply was SNS 203 and 209 plus DE if he as much as sees a gnat. I thought Gnats hurt the plants by eating the roots he told me it wasn't so much the eatting of the roots but apparently Fungus Gnats carry a plant virus that comes off as looking like or having symptoms of a deficiency; after seeing how they cut my harvest in half I can see he was correct
    Emilya Green
    Emilya Green
    I mix the 203 up in a couple of ways for the foliar. I go 15ml/quart if I have a light infestation or a mold problem. If I get some of the tougher bugs like mites or thrips, I step it up to 30ml/quart. If I am doing a drench to kill larvae, then it requires a bit more, and I go about 60ml/quart or about 4oz/gallon. I give you all this because the label isn't very good about explaining the various ways of using the product.
    Hi Emylia,

    Hope you remember me from my post some weeks ago:

    Stunted growth - a repeating problem I can not solve

    While I am grateful for the watering advice you gave me (game changer), I did run into other issues down the road and am currently in a desperate situation once again.

    With the right watering method, light intensity, VPD and C02 and other concerns out of the way, there is one last issue I can’t resolve – feeding and media EC monitoring.

    Those last plants from the post that looked amazing after the correction in watering, eventually got badly burned in week 4 of flowering.

    A total of 4 waterings starting week 1 of flower with around 500ppm (1.5L each) is all that took to almost kill them.

    I guess I did not take into consideration that by increasing the amount of water from 0.5L to 1.5L per watering I am also increasing the total amount of nutrients, regardless of ppm concentration. By the end of week 4 lower leaves stated to yellow and by the time I made a runoff test I realized the media was already over 1800ppm and they were frying. I did flush them but the damage was done. Perhaps there were also netes left from veg.

    My conclusion is that I need a method of knowing the EC in the media prior to every watering in order to ensure that I am not overfeeding. Does this make sense? I used to rely on set feeding schedule that I’ve adjusted (trial and error) in time but realized every batch runs differently and that can’t work without actual knowledge of the media EC.

    As I started to make runoff tests for EC I stumbled upon a new issue I was not aware of. The Plagron Lightmix I use seems to have a 1000-1200ppm runoff right out of the bag. So now every time I put seedlings or repot plants into their final container, I need to take this ppm into consideration, which make the whole decision making every more difficult. To add to the problem the Lightmix is pre-fertilized with mineral nutes, while I use Plagron Alga series nutes which are organic.

    Usually I don’t adjust the pH of the watering solution, however now that I know there is so much mineral nutes in the media I wonder if I should.

    At some point I plan to change the Lightmix with Promix that is not fertilized and recommended for organic grow. But that will take some tests and time so now I have to deal with the Lightmix.

    Long story short, how should I approach the media EC monitoring and if runoff test is the solution can you advice of the correct way to do it and what things I should consider. I also bought a Bluelab Pulse meter, so far it gives rather close readings to the runoff.


    P.S I was wondering if there is any way I could contact you privately and share with you a brief document describing my process and principles. It’s a simple table that includes all parameters of the process. Hopefully you can spot some issues and give me some general advice. My final goal is to set a fixed production process that works and try to stick with it and not change it. Last couple of years of my life passed into experimentation, theories and guesswork and honestly, I am physically and financially exhausted and don’t know if I can keep going. And yet I feel I am one step away from success.
    Emilya Green
    Emilya Green
    I have asked you a question on the other thread so we can follow up on this
    P
    plan500
    I will take some pictures tomorrow and will post with some more details of what I did following the last pics I posted when things were going perfect.

    However those were the last big plants I will have, my current batches are now SOG, no topping, 4 weeks grow, 9 weeks flower, double the number of pots/plants. I've decided to change the model as SOG make more economic sense. I also have issues with the new SOG batches, but thy are mostly related to what I wrote above so decided not to mention them.
    Hey EM
    Hope all is well with you I have a question, request to see if I could recommend a product top get reviewed, I'm growing decent weed but I am fighting the Hay horse feed smell I am slowing the dry to a week to 13-14 days I have my weed is jars for 4 months before it smelled and tasted good anyway iot is something I am doing during the dry I saw these products * I know we aren't suppose to post links I hope this is a different case. I cant find anything on the forum. is it possible to request a review?
    ECO FARMS
    wedryer
    Herb NOW
    I( some one could let me know what is the best route I would greatly appreciate it
    Thanks have a good evening
    Savvage61 :thanks:
    Buds Buddy
    Buds Buddy
    Are you using 62% Humidity packs in your jars ? Do you change them about every 3 months ? Is the weed dried out or still a little moist & sticky ? Mine stays moist & sticky in the middle with the RH packs.
    Hello, good morning, I wanted to ask you something that I did not find in any forum and I do not understand well, a friend installed 2 LED panels each with a cxb3590 chip with about 90 w for two tents each 60x60, they have 4 pots each tent, I wanted Knowing what distance they should have in vegetation and in flora is the only thing I want to know, and I think that in forums I saw that it is low power, I await your response and thanks in advance, regards.
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    Emilya Green
    Emilya Green
    It depends on a lot of things. If you're using reflectors they can make a difference. It also depends on the age of your plants. My best advice is to get a light meter so that you can see what light level you are putting on the plants. I gradually increase the amount of light all through veg and then find a standard level at the high end of the range for the flower stage
    Buds Buddy
    Buds Buddy
    Emilya ? I'm surprised you recommended a light meter.... lol. Yeah, they work.
    But I still think you can just go by the praying leaves to determine light brightness & height. Not all strains will need the same amount of light so in a way, reading the leaves seems more accurate then a light meter. I quit using my lux meter when I learned about reading the leaves from you a while back. Once in a while I still check it though out of curiosity to see where I am.
    Hello! I was wondering if you could give me a hand with two questions I have regarding something you wrote about flushing:

    "Flushing is definitely NOT a myth. It is done for a specific purpose. If you think that flushing means giving only water and starving your plant at the end, then that IS an old method that was used back in the 1970's to increase the plant's potency, but that has been proven to be a myth. We now know that it is better to feed your plants normally, right up to the end and that it is the curing process that cleans the smoke of all chemical tastes... it isn't done by starving the plant.

    If you are referring to flushing in the correct way, to mean running a 3x the container flush of clean fresh water, to rid the soil of any built up salts or unused nutes, that IS definitely a thing, and is a good tool to use during a grow to allow for full uptake by the plant, not restricted by the debris building up in the soil.

    Lastly, and most importantly, a proper 3x flush should be done 2 weeks before harvest, for it is during these last two weeks that the buds finish out, and sometimes double in weight and girth. Flushing the soil before this process starts ensures that your plants will be able to have full uptake and get as much water and nutrients as it needs for this final push."

    A) If I understood correctly, you recommend flushing 2 weeks before harvest, but then keep feeding the plant after that?
    B) Do you think that this should be necessary for an autoflower fed with organic nutrients? I wonder because it has a lifecycle of only 12 weeks and in my case it's planted on Biobizz Lightmix and using only the Biobizz basic nutrients (Biogrow/Biobloom/Topmax) which I understand are organic and "safer" when it comes to overfeeding/soil buildup compared to synthethic ones.

    Thanks!
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    Emilya Green
    Emilya Green
    Hi Nicotin, yes, I recommend feeding the plant all the way to the end after the flush. This isn't about cleaning out the plant, it is about cleaning the soil so that the plants can make use of the maximum amount of nutes right up to the end. There is no difference between auto's and regulars when it comes to flushing... if you have used synthetic nutes, which build up salts, then a flush 2 weeks before the chop can be very beneficial, as you continue to feed up to the end. If you are not using synthetic nutrients, there is no salt building up so there is never a need to flush. Just keep doing what you are doing right up to the end.
    N
    Nicotin
    Thanks!
    Happy Belated Birthday!

    Looking at your profile, it says you are in search of a favourite strain. Perhaps at one point in time you were blessed enough to try mine? It came packaged in a tuna can in the early to mid 00's and we used to call it 'tuna can kush' came out of western Canada at the time.
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