Emilya Green

Emilya Green

Well-Known Member 45 From West Central Missouri
2 Member of the Month
June 2022 3 Grow Journal of the Month
June 2022
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  • J
    Hi --- I am on my second ever run & was researching why my leaves were purpling
    then going necrotic by coincidence I had fixed it by flushing last run

    It wasn't until recently that I found A post you mentioned:
    molybdenum deficiency

    just wanted to give you A huge thank you ^.^ as I feel you have taught
    me a huge lesson
    Savvage61
    Hi Emilya , I posted some pics of my problem child/ren if you don't mind when you have time would you mind giving me your diagnosis ? you have been such a help and a wealth of knowledge
    Emilya Green
    Emilya Green
    give me a call with an @Emilya from your journal where the pictures are. I am always happy to help when I can.
    Savvage61
    Savvage61
    Im still a bit of a noob I have the pics under Bag flush, I'm the bonehead who mixed soils OF &*HF remember me now lol starting a new Journal soon haven't made one yet
    TY
    CBDMed
    Hi! I am new here. I am blown away by Em's threads on how to water plants. Em said to find her grow diary also. "Check out my current journal's last post " How would I navigate to it? Thanks.
    TorturedSoul
    Hi,

    I sort of vaguely remember something about electric current and plants. Okay, "vaguely" might not be a strong enough qualifier, lol. But if it was you commenting on that thread, you might be interested in this link:
    Code: 
    https://phys.org/news/2022-01-chinese-electroculture-theorized.amp

    Kind regards,
    TS
    twistedlefty
    hoping you got through the wind storm ok, we were getting 70mph winds and it was pretty hairy for a while.

    i've spent some time here researching for my first grow and at each step along the way i seem to find advice or instruction that you have provided,
    so just wanted to say thanx for taking the time to teach us nubes how to stay out of our own way.

    seedlings going into the end of their 2nd week really came to life when i followed your lesson on watering.
    My PH was Too Damn High!
    looking forward to learning more from you as i go
    twistedlefty
    was advised to introduce myself back when i joined. we are probably not far from being neighbors . i'm in nw missouri.
    anyhoo, Hi:ciao:
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    Emilya Green
    Emilya Green
    lol, well you joined about a year and a half ago, so I am glad you finally got around to it! Nice to formally meet you! Based on a clue you gave in an earlier post, I would estimate that we are about an hour's drive from each other. Hi!
    twistedlefty
    twistedlefty
    yeah, about that delay. the virus removed a year from our timeline (so-far)
    I've been bouncing around different grow related forums for a few months now,
    and while gathering a lot of info, i know there's still a learning curve.
    unfortunately the timing is looking like i won't be setting up until the thick of winter.
    basement tents are planned.
    worried about dealing with a cold basement.
    hopefully it will sort itself.

    thanks for responding.
    S
    Emilya ... thank you for all your work towards helping people grow.

    I wanted to ask if you had a watering schedule or process for seedlings in small containers or solo cups? I'm currently weighing, and gradually scaling my water in grams from a 10g spray on the planting spot (where the seedling from a soak/paper towel sprout method had been planted root down), misting to keep damp, when it sprouts and weight goes under inital "soil from bag" weight, I squirt 10g at the stem, in about a day its back under dry weight again so I then use your "outer edge" method around the edge of the cup and using a squirt bottle I add 35g h2o. I'm getting excellent results but I'm curious where to go from here. At this point they have 2 true leaves and the 2nd set is coming in. Would you suggest continuing to raise the water weight up progessively to saturation? I worry saturating a solo could stunt the seedling and interrupt a speedy wet/dry cycle. I also read many people use a "shot glass worth" so I weighed that and its 50g. Thats about 15 grams h2o above what I'm currently watering. Perhaps thats the sweet spot for a solo seedling? Or stabilize the plants by giving what they need to be ready for water again in 3 days, establishing a 3 day wet/dry cycle? Or perhaps apply your surface spraying technique to encourage side rooting while letting the lower soil dry out more than I am now?

    I'm very cautious as Ive overwatered before so I'm trying to dial in a process I can repeat reliably.

    Curious what you would suggest and thank you!
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    Emilya Green
    Emilya Green
    Or perhaps apply your surface spraying technique to encourage side rooting while letting the lower soil dry out more than I am now?
    Click to expand...
    You have answered your own question. When the bottom is retaining water and you are waiting for the roots to deal with it, water the edges. It appears that I did cover how to properly do this.
    So why would you worry that saturating soil would somehow stunt a seedling? Is this maybe an assumption on your part, and one based on what, maybe gut feeling?
    By the time the seedling is up and starting to put out its leaves, you will continue to spray it twice a day while it is still floating around, and then once a day after the sprig seems to be locked into place. Then the rule is to spray out to 3x the diameter of the plant. At first, this is right on the plant, and the same area you were watering the seed at. So this area in the middle is starting to get wet, all the way to the bottom. The tap root is following this water, and when it finds the bottom, it will turn 90 degrees and spread out along the bottom. At this point, the plant is fairly well locked into place and it stops swimming around every time you get it wet. This is task #1 of the new plant... hitting the bottom, testing its limits as it were. Task #2 is to start throwing out surface area and start doubling and redoubling the amount of photosynthesis going on, while still building more roots at the same time. The leaves work during the day and during the night that stored energy and raw building material goes into building roots. Soon, within days, the diameter of the new plant x3 will reach the outer edges, and after all of this spraying every day, the soil will be quite wet... and nearly saturated. Now it is time to let the roots do their thing, to drain that cup. It may take a few days to do... maybe up to 5 days... but you never want a plant to sit more than 3 days without some new input. On that third day, I water with just a bit... really trying to limit how much more water I am adding, but I water the outside edges, just enough to make them wet. This might add another day to the first draining of the cup, but it also entices the top spreader roots to grow laterally, toward those edges and that water. By the time another 3 days has elapsed or before, the plants will have used all of the water, and they will probably be ready for their first full watering to saturation. This moment should be logged, and then you start your first official wet/dry cycle timer, and you can then watch your roots get stronger and stronger as the cup will start draining the water faster and faster with each cycle. My plants usually get huge and up to the 4th node or better before they can drain that cup in a day, but with this aggressive watering this happens in about a week and a half to two weeks, and then you uppot and repeat this process, trying to see if you can get ready to uppot to your final container, or the next stage, in the next two weeks. If you can go through two steps and move to your final container in a month, you have the process down.

    Regarding weighing... some people need to see physical proof that the container still holds a significant amount of water. They say, it is light, so I need to water, when there is actually 50 to 100 grams of water still in the bottom of the cup. A scale lets a skeptical grower actually see the number, being able to compare a similar cup with dry soil with what is being dealt with. A little postal scale in the veg room is quite an effective training aid and I bet that anyone who hasn't tried it would be shocked how much water remains when they honestly believed that it was as dry as the Sahara Desert.
    S
    squarewaves
    Sweet. Appreciate the thoughtful input.

    I'm using a scale and its been incredibly helpful. I know exactly whats going in, and I know when its been used up or evaporated.

    To answer your question at the beginning about why I worry about saturating the soil being harmful to the seedling ... I just stunted 4 seeds I had planned for this grow and it seems pretty fair to assume they were overwatered. I was watering them too much thinking its hard to overwater in a solo, but I lost those 4. So now I'm on a quest to really dial in this early phase and not waste seeds. They exhibited all the symptoms of overwatering and were not responding to a correction. Since I've been weighing things, my seedlings look great, so it seems like I'm on a good path. I like a process that can be replicated once I know its working. As I imagine you do as well :)

    So can I say its safe to assume your tutorial on watering a seed in its final pot can also be applied to a solo cup or small planter as well?

    Thank you again, I appreciate your time and help ❤
    Emilya Green
    Emilya Green
    yep, the idea of the wet/dry cycle is valid all through the grow... it just changes a little in bloom
    thanyawit
    Hi Emilya , Thank you for great information.i have learned how to water cannabis from you when i stated grow my first plant.
    Renaissance Man
    Hi Emilya, I was hoping you can give me direction in my first grow with an auto flower? My plan was to start in a 1gal pot and then transplant to the final 5gal cloth pot. I'm not sure if by waiting for the 1gal to get a good size rootball might be too late to transplant? The alternative is to go from a Dixie cup to a 1gal then to the 5gal or just skip the 1gal altogether? What are your thoughts?
    Thanks in advance.
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    Emilya Green
    Emilya Green
    if you are monitoring water usage and watering properly, the plants will still tell you when it is time... it just happens faster with an auto. The very first time the plants can suck down all the water you can get that container to take (of any size) in 24-36 hours, it is time to uppot. Stay alert, the first time can sneak up on you fast and then after that the plant will slow down and not be able to achieve that benchmark for a significant extra amount of time, because the roots have gotten in each other's way. It is a classic example of diminishing returns.
    Renaissance Man
    Renaissance Man
    Thank you! That is the answer I was hoping to get! Happy growing!
    ChoochChooch63
    Sorry if I'm botherin you. I just didn't want this on that post I put well cause I have my reasons,but I do appreciate you & the words. I have to say this I friggin cried. I'm sorry.
    Emilya Green
    Emilya Green
    you are not bothering me and just let me know if there is anything you want an honest and direct answer to. I am sort of known for calling them the way I see it. Once you get up to 50 posts you can then avail yourself of the private messaging system, if you would like to be even more private.
    ChoochChooch63
    ChoochChooch63
    Like I told the other fellow,I don't like to play much & if I say something you'll know I mean it I like a straight shooter like me. I'm not sure bout the 50 post thing I don't talk much like I told the other fellow. I only talk to my plants. There's nobody else so yeah I think 50 is alot for me but I wont say anything where others can pick apart to suit there interpretation of what Im sayin. I think way to far out of the box for most ppl. Anywho your Awesome to bad I couldn't have met you another way. Thanks sweetie. Oh I'm always here to,greenhouse TV or burning.✌
    B
    Hi Emilya,

    So new to the forum and Marijuana as well. Someone suggested I reach out to you for input on my thread (link below). Funny, looking at one of your recent threads I noticed it seems like you're picking up the Reef Aquarium hobby?!? I'm a seasoned veteran of the hobby for almost 20 years now. I'll trade ya advice, in kind? :) Always love helping out fellow hobbyists.

    Would love to someday take up growing. For now just need help consuming... Here's my thread outlining advice needed...

    Why don't I get high?

    Hi, So I'm a fairly new medical marijuana user, using it to help with sleep. It def helps with that and allows me to get off my Rx! But....I'd also like to enjoy the high feeling. I feel great and high from alcohol. But all I get from medical marijuana is a loss of short term memory and a...
    www.420magazine.com

    Bryan
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    Emilya Green
    Emilya Green
    Hi Bryher! I will comment on your thread. Yes, been a reefer for about 10 years, but recently moved to a new house and had to start over with the tank. I downsized everything quite a bit and now only have a 40B and a 10g refugium going, and after 4 months it seems to have stabilized quite well. I am at the point now where I would love to introduce some more pricy livestock into the tank, but the age of the tank has me holding off for another 6 months or so. At the moment I am happy with my cleaning crew of multiple types of snails and hermits, 2 clowns, 2 damsels, 1 blenny and 2 anemones', not to mention 2 or 3 young starfish that came in on living rock as I built the aquarium.
    Km021
    Hi Emilya, hope you well.
    I Have a question :
    I have planted a lemon haze 3 month ago, I thought it is Autoflower but actually i hve found that it is periodic one :(
    So i did not any topping o fiming training on her ...Due to Autos do not like Training cause of getting stress.
    Now i have a beautiful Christmas tree, what can i do with it ? Cut the main tall one n clone it?
    D
    Hi. I'm using Kind Soil. I have Happy Frog to add ontop this time. I usually do 5 gallon plastic containers. I think I'm going to use 10 gallon or at least 7 gallon containers this time. I just haven't grown any bud that came out good yet final results with this method yet. I must keep doing something wrong. Anyways my question is, how do I get the proper water source for this super soil, where the chlorine and or chloramine won't kill the microbes. Reverse Osmosis seems like the simple solution but I've read that this takes out needed minerals and chelates them from the soil/plant or something like this. I've also learned that you can bubble out chlorine but you can't get rid of chlromaine that way. You have to chemically detach it and even then you detach the chlorine from the ammonia molecule and the ammonia is still floating around? Will ascorbic acid aka vitamin or humic acid remove chloramine? Will adding acid every watering make the ph go off. Etc etc. Its a nightmare trying to figure out what's the right way to go about proper water.
    • Like
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    Emilya Green
    Emilya Green
    Hi Doc... RO is definitely the way to go, just have some calmag handy in case you need it... the magnesium in the tap water is the only mineral you will really miss by using the filtered water. You can treat tap water effectively too... the ascorbic acid trick does remove chlorine and chloramine. The small amount needed is not going to significantly change the pH of your water and in an organic grow, your need to adjust pH to a narrow range is not necessary... the only reason we adjust pH is for when we use synthetic nutes... you are not, so you don't need to adjust pH.
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