Emilya Green

Emilya ... I'm not sure if u will get this, but the last time I had a question after you answered it I literally had no more questions on the subject. I'm hoping you can help me with this problem I have now. I had just transplanted seedlings from solo cups to a 1 gal fabric pot. A few days later I noticed that a crazy amount of roots were coming through the bottom of the pots some of the roots longer than 5 or 6 inches... And that was only about 3 days after transplanting them.. it's been about 8 days now and the problem is getting worse... When I had transplanted them I had moved them under better lights and in a new tent plus I was having trouble keeping the temps down.... So for the first few days they looked stunted and I didn't no exactly why.. whether it was the heat the lights intensity or closeness or from the transplanting.... So I was kind of bummed out and was just patiently watching and making little Tweeks.... Now though even though they have only been in the new containers for a week I def have to transplant them again... I have already transplanted one of them a lot of roots were ripped off from the bottom but not even 24 hours later it is doing even better than before the second transplanting.... That one plant though didn't have as many roots coming out as some of the others... That being said it still has a ton coming out... I'm still nervous about how I am gonna transplant the rest of them part of me wants to cut the sides of the pot off and just replant the plant with the bottom of the pot still on in the new pot.... What do you think I should do? I'm not sure you will get this but if you do and you need pics I will send.... Thanks your the best

Thank you so much for commenting on my post, do you have a recommendation for running my tsw 2000 in a 4x4 tent? I've been having so much trouble finding a decent answer even mars hydro doesnt have a consistent answer for height and brightness

Hi there! New user here, and I've been told that you are quite smart with organic nutes. I'm new to the game myself , and have No clue about nutes in general. I was told to try geo flora 2 part, any further information would be much appreciated! Thank you much!

Thank you very kindly for all of the great literature you created in this space...Cheers!

Hi. I decided to stop by, and say thank you for following me! How have you been? Long time since we’ve talked. Since the day Is stopped by your watering guide! I have this new outdoor grow journal going on. Come by, and check It out. You won’t be disspointed!

Hi emilya,
Im having a problem with watering, there starting to look over watered and really droopy. What can i do to help them get back to there healthy state? There in coco atm

Hey emilya, hope you doin well.
Im having a problem with germination; i hve started two seeds in glass of water n paper towel method, at first both of them cracked n tap root popped out after 1 day one of the seeds tap root look a lil yellow color n shorter than other one, it seemed that the shell is too hard n not letting the tap root get out of the shell, then i i hve attempted a risky shiii... n tried to use a blade to help the seed to cut the shell, i hold the seed with my fingers n i saw the tap root fell down, not with blade, it fell Then I panicked n kept it in paper towel ‍ Any hope?

hi emilya,
i am getting ready to start up my first grow using geoflora, does the geoflora add microbes or does the soil have them already, or both? it is also my first grow using full spectrum lighting and i saw it mentioned that extra cal mag may be needed using the full spectrum lights - is this your experience as well? are there any tips or pitfalls you could give using the geoflora?

thanks billy

Hi Emilya,

From what i have read in your comments you seem to know quit a bit about the "Growing game" ...at least it gives me confidence in asking this question, i have always grown with just PH and EC Meters and had some great results however i'm looking for ways to up my game and i'm seriously considering buying a PPM Meter...Now because i'm totally new to growing using PPM i was looking for a bit of guidance about the values i need to adhere to and at what stage...Would you be willing to help me out a bit??

Now i grow mainly from seeds under two TL T-5 bulbs until they are big enough to Flower at which stage they move under a HPS-400 Watt

Hope this gives you enough to go on, if not just ask and i'll give the info to the best of my ability
Thanks in advance and
Greetings from Holland
Purple H

Do I need to add cal mag if I’m growing autoflower in mother earth mixed with nature’s living super soil and great white

Hey Em,
Was just thinking to companion plant some marigolds in my tent to keep away aphids (which I always seems to get). I havent seen any in the tent but just want to pre-empt any attacks for this grow.....what do you think?...Ab

Hi Emilya - hope this post finds you well. Last night I read your response to someone who had been overwatering their plants in which you explained to them their errors and offered suggestions to correct. Great post. There was something in there that is SO simple and SO obvious that I would have never thought of it. I HAVE A SCALE. I look at it on my table in front of me every day. Well, like you mentioned, I have been "guessing" at when my little seedlings cup's are 100% dry, based on picking up the cups and figuring, "ok, this is what it weighed when it was dry." That's a losing proposition considering the underground wells and such that you discuss. Especially, I would think, when the pot is a Dixie cup and the margins are so small. I am certain I compromised my first grow for exactly those reasons, among many others, lol. So my plants wake up in about 20 minutes. I'm simply going to weigh a cup with the same soil against the weight this morning of my seedling cups. What could be simpler or more accurate? Simply wait until the numbers match, then water, right?

So I'm wondering, cuz that just seems TOO easy and as a newbie that makes me a little nervous - is this a good way to determine when to water? It seems to be what you were alluding to in your post. I can't think of a better way now that you've pointed out the obvious. One of the elements of your genius is not overlooking the simple despite knowing the complex, and it is much appreciated that you share so willingly. I'm also a sapiosexual, so I dig your stuff on another level as well. (LOL, please take that in the humorous spirit in which it is intended, just trying to give you a morning chuckle...)

Anyway, if there is a downside to this scale method, which I can use all the way until transplant (which is great), could you please let me know and/or tell me a better method?

Thanks so much in advance!

Jon

Hello Emilya my names is Julius. I am a struggling noob who just got his first plants to start veg and have a plant mostly full of yellow leaves , I just learned from you that I have been watering wrong so I'm in worse shape than I thought and I really need your help and guidance ... have you written any books of any kind that I could purchase for help? Thank you for any help you can provide In advance.
P.s - As you can probably tell from my profile picture I am a super noob and I may not have to long to live with Whitney(my plant) and IM WORRIED SICK ...please help

Hi Emilya - I have a question or two for you if you don't mind, going back to our earlier communication regarding transplanting autos and the whole Dixie cup thing. First, some background: so this is regarding my autoflower grow specifically. I have made some solid decisions, most relevant being that I've decided to do (3) Cinderella Jack and (1) Gorilla Zkittlez in 3 gallon final pots in my 5x5. They should all have plenty of space that way. The recommendation on the Cinderella Jack in particular is that it is best left to basically do it's thing and doesn't really like a lot of heavy manipulation. And I only have the one Gorilla Zkittlez seed, and I doubt the two strains are going to come to fruition at the same time. Therefore I have decided to abandon my low scrog idea and just use low stress training on the autos to open up as many bud sites as possible. Work each plant as an individual, with the aim of creating a "scrog" of sorts but just with bending and tying branches and such and with no screen. Do my best to keep the "canopy" at a relatively even level. All that is easy enough in theory.

So here's where I want to toss in some wrenches for the sake of experimentation/knowledge/learning. I am going to start these puppies in 16oz. Dixie cups - the big cups. By doing that, I figure I can keep them in those cups for about two weeks, maybe a few days more, before root development will dictate that I must transplant. In that time, I believe it's possible that the plants could develop four nodes of growth or so. So - I am going to TOP one of the Cinderella Jacks to see what happens.

My first question (finally, lol) is this: If you were going to do as I laid out above, would you top that one Cinderella while it was in the Dixie Cup? Then wait a few days for it to recover and then transplant? OR, would you transplant maybe a few days earlier and top the plant when it had adapted to it's 3 gallon pot for a few days? Or neither of those things and something else?

My second question is a bit more diffuse. If I let them go for two weeks in the large Dixie Cups, I am using two weeks of an 8-10 week lifecycle before they hit their final home. That's a lot of time lost without early LST that I won't be able to do - two weeks worth - because I won't be able to start training them until they are in the final pots. Or is that in fact true? Can you think of a way I could begin to "train" the plants in the Dixie cups and then transplant them while "maintaining" the shape of the plant I have achieved to that point? Or would it better to just let them go two weeks, let the roots get nice and developed, transplant them, and then train them from that point forward? (I hope that makes sense.)

My bonus question is, what is more stressful in your opinion to the plant, topping or transplanting?

Hope this wasn't the most boring post you got today.

Jon

Hey @Emilya hope you doin good, one of my friends had a question that how to make npk recipe to achieve 4-3-11.
Can you help us to make it please?

Calcium Nitrate, Iron Chelate, Potassium Nitrate, Magnesium Sulphate, Mono Ammonium Phosphate, mono potassium phosphate and potassium sulphate and librel BMX for the trace.

Hi Emilya, when using pH up and down, a white cloud appears every time its added. What I believe its a chemical reaction to the calmag. This wipes out the calmag and is not available.

What can I do to prevent this ? I've tried diluting the pH but the chemical reaction is still happening.

Thanks inadvance

Afternoon Emilya, just a quick one... is it possible to top too much and what time intervals between each topping you recommend. To add is topping better than fimming? If so why ?

Thanks inadvanced

Hi @Emilya, long time
İm having germination issue of my OG seed, i need your help as usual, i have tried to germinate in distilled water with ph 5.8, its been long for 3 days in paper towel, a tiny root showed up but it is not gonna come out, yellowish color, what to do?! I hate germination by the way

This time I switched to Coco and perlite.

Appreciate

i saw that you tried geoflora - what was your out take on using it? did you increase or decrease the suggested feeding? were your yields the same as using others? did you use supplements along with the geoflora?

Hi Emilya, referring to your post regarding how to properly water a potted plant, you mentioned to water it a 1/4 at a time. Is that a quarter of a litre at a time or the the size of the pot. To help I'm using 11L plastic pots. Thank you. I enjoy reading your content learnt so much in 30 mins.