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12/12

Bob32014

Member
OK, I'm really new at all this so don't laugh at me.
I see 12/12 all over the forum but no one defines it.
I'm guessing it's 12 hours of light and 12 hours of dark.
If so, when should I start my seedlings on the 12/12 regimen?
Right now there are getting 24/0 and have 2 to 2&1/2 leaves.
Thanks!
 

Stu

Well-Known Member
Yes 12/12 is light dark schedule :thumb:

I’d start a journal and get some pics up so people can see in order to help you better.

I’d say at least 4 weeks veg though, but I’m a noob myself, mine have been in veg for 7 weeks getting ready to flip to 12/12 this weekend


7 weeks veg white widow, currently 34” tall
82BFF1D3-9C0F-483E-8141-3AE5296CFE0D.jpeg


Are your plants autos or photos?
More info the better mate

Cheers
 

Bob32014

Member
Thanks for the info.
Now I'm wondering what veg is and auto.
They are Kush/Haze (Sativa) feminized. Does that help? Bought from CropKing.
If photos refer to pictures: Here's one that I took of one of the four seedlings that is developing spots. I think it's "Nute-burn" but not sure. The other seedlings are doing well.
 

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Emilya

Member of the Month: Mar 2019
Nice plant Stu! It has been generally agreed upon that plants, whether they be autos [bred to not care what light schedule they find themselves in, they just do their thing automatically] or regulars, need a bit of rest time from the light. There are things that happen when the light goes off, and actually I see most of my rapid growth during the dark hours. Others claim that there is nothing like 24 hours of light, 7 days a week, to really get them growing fast. So, you will hear both sides on these forums...
I am a firm believer in running 18/6... 18 hours of light/6 of darkness, during the veg or vegetative stage [as opposed to the flowering stage], and if I were running an auto that is also the light timing I would use. I have tried all manner of light variations in flowering stage, but always, 12/12 works very well to put the plant into flowering mode. Some like to reduce the daylight hours a bit at the end of the grow to simulate autumn sun variations... and there might be merit to this practice, but 12/12 always works.
Regarding your plant picture... it does look like nute burn because seedlings do not need nutes, and possibly overwatering by watering too often... you have to let them dry out all the way to the bottom between waterings.
 

Remystemple

Well-Known Member
Nice plant Stu! It has been generally agreed upon that plants, whether they be autos [bred to not care what light schedule they find themselves in, they just do their thing automatically] or regulars, need a bit of rest time from the light. There are things that happen when the light goes off, and actually I see most of my rapid growth during the dark hours. Others claim that there is nothing like 24 hours of light, 7 days a week, to really get them growing fast. So, you will hear both sides on these forums...
I am a firm believer in running 18/6... 18 hours of light/6 of darkness, during the veg or vegetative stage [as opposed to the flowering stage], and if I were running an auto that is also the light timing I would use. I have tried all manner of light variations in flowering stage, but always, 12/12 works very well to put the plant into flowering mode. Some like to reduce the daylight hours a bit at the end of the grow to simulate autumn sun variations... and there might be merit to this practice, but 12/12 always works.
Regarding your plant picture... it does look like nute burn because seedlings do not need nutes, and possibly overwatering by watering too often... you have to let them dry out all the way to the bottom between waterings.
I was wondering if it depends on strain or not because i have some little ones going 24/0 and by day 14 they were working on their 6th sets and growing very fast. 2 different strains both grew the same. they're doing so well i've been debating whether or not to even bother with dark until they go to flower.

Those little things that have about 50/50 split on opinion are the worst LMAO.

20190109_161331.jpg

moments before the vicious topping at the 2nd node.
 

Stu

Well-Known Member
Nice plant Stu! It has been generally agreed upon that plants, whether they be autos [bred to not care what light schedule they find themselves in, they just do their thing automatically] or regulars, need a bit of rest time from the light. There are things that happen when the light goes off, and actually I see most of my rapid growth during the dark hours. Others claim that there is nothing like 24 hours of light, 7 days a week, to really get them growing fast. So, you will hear both sides on these forums...
I am a firm believer in running 18/6... 18 hours of light/6 of darkness, during the veg or vegetative stage [as opposed to the flowering stage], and if I were running an auto that is also the light timing I would use. I have tried all manner of light variations in flowering stage, but always, 12/12 works very well to put the plant into flowering mode. Some like to reduce the daylight hours a bit at the end of the grow to simulate autumn sun variations... and there might be merit to this practice, but 12/12 always works.
Regarding your plant picture... it does look like nute burn because seedlings do not need nutes, and possibly overwatering by watering too often... you have to let them dry out all the way to the bottom between waterings.

You’ve got Emilya in here now bob so I’d take any advice she offers, and follow it, read some of her links and you’ll be much further ahead, I’m very much a noobie at this growing, but done a hell of a lot of reading on here to try and educate myself, started a journal and took the advice I was given

Cheers
 

Bob32014

Member
OK, thanks Emilya (and Stu).
So you would recommend 18/6 while in the veg or growth phase and then switch to 12/12 when you want it to flower? How do I know what it's ready to flower? Like 2.5 to 3 feet tall? Is it possible my little seedlings will look like Stu's after 7 weeks? Hard to believe!
I found a good feeding schedule on this site and I'll try to stick to it.
Fox Farm:
WEEKLY FEEDING- per Gallon
Sprouting and week 1--BigBloom 2TBS
week 2-- 2tsp Grow Big + 2TBS Big Bloom
Week 3--3tsp Grow Big + 2TBS Big Bloom
Week 4--JUST 3 tspGrow Big + 1/4 tsp Open Sesame
Week 5 same as week 4 unless going 12/12--

Week 5- OR--day 1 of 12/12-- 2 tsp Tiger Bloom +1TBS Big Bloom + 1/2 tsp Open Sesame
Week 6--same as above
Week 7-- 2 Tsp Grow Big + 2 tsp Tiger Bloom +1TBS Big Bloom + 1/4 tsp Beastie Bloom
Week 8-- 2Tsp Grow Big + 2 tsp Tiger Bloom +1TBS Big Bloom + 1/2 tsp Beastie Bloom
Week 9-- 2 tsp Tiger Bloom +1TBS Big Bloom + 1/4 tsp Cha Ching
week 10-- Same as above
Week 11--2 tsp Tiger Bloom +1TBS Big Bloom + 1/2 tsp Cha Ching
 
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Emilya

Member of the Month: Mar 2019
Yes, that is a good feeding schedule, but also note that this feeding is done on every other watering... you go water/nutes/water/nutes... all the way through the grow.
You have it right about the lighting... 12/12 triggers flowering in regular photoperiod plants like what you have and knowing this, by staying at 18/6 you can keep her in veg for a long time. So she is ready to go to flower around week 4-5, or when the nodes start coming in staggered instead of symmetrical as they are now. That doesnt mean that you have to go to flower then, it just means that she is capable. Many people, myself included, veg for a month and a half to two months, or longer just to build the plant up to have more branches that will eventually turn into buds. You just have to keep in mind that most strains will double in size upon switching to flower, and some can triple in vertical height. A lot of times, the available vertical height determines for you when it is time to switch to flower.
Many will advise you to go easy on those nutes, especially on a seedling... but you are running FoxFarm nutes, and this system is extremely well designed to be used as recommended. If you follow those directions to the letter, give nutes every other time, flush when they tell you to, and adjust all your fluids to the proper pH, you will end up with a beautiful first grow.
 

Stu

Well-Known Member
Absolutely hard to believe I agree 100%
my plants looked just like yours 7 weeks ago. Had a few screw ups with nutes and ph and RH but got some help along the way and it’s going well, Just organic with Gaia Green now. I have one plant ive named the mutant that is 1/8 the size of the rest my plants but she’s going into flower with the rest, I expect a couple grams from her at best but that’s all good, it’s been great fun tending to her special needs.

Cheers



Wow Emilya in your comment above I’ve never heard that before! Most my plants just started doing this the past couple weeks I thought was odd but never questioned it lol

when the nodes start coming in staggered instead of symmetrical as they are now. That doesnt mean that you have to go to flower then, it just means that she is capable.
:Namaste:
 

Emilya

Member of the Month: Mar 2019
OK, will do and a big thank you! I'm getting a soil meter also so I can check the pH and the moisture level.

bp
let me head this one off at the pass. Despite all that you read on these forums about measuring soil pH and runoff, it is a useless exercise. Your soil pH is fine, as that Ocean Forest is a well designed soil that is guaranteed to be somewhere in the proper pH range for growing our weed. Getting an erroneous reading by measuring runoff pH or using a soil probe can just confuse the new gardener, and there are plenty of people out here that will advise you to do any number of things to "fix" the soil. Don't do it. Don't believe everything you read on these forums. Check out how many followers an advice giver has... that should tell you a lot about the quality of what they write.
Getting a cheap moisture meter is fine, but there is an easier way to determine when to water. Please read my signature piece on how to water a potted plant, the link is in my signature and it should clear up all your misconceptions about watering. The lift method rules... you don't really need the moisture meter.
What you do need is a good digital pH meter. It is very important to be able to accurately adjust your pH. Get a meter and figure out what you are going to want to use for a pH up and a pH down product... you can DIY it, or you can buy these products ready to go... your choice. Then practice setting all of your fluids to 6.3 pH... you will get better at it as you practice.
 
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Stu

Well-Known Member
Such good advice, I water to Emilya’s guide I was pointed there by dutchman early on, now I weigh my plants daily, when there dry I can tell when I lift them, but sometimes after I weigh them I’ll let them dry an extra day, for me just after watering my pots weight is about 14.0 pounds, dry they weigh (7 at the start) I call 7.5 to 8.0 “dry” now, somedays I pick up a plant and I’m like yep needs water, then stick on the scale and it’s weight is 10 pounds still, (must just be stronger that day ;)) I’ll let that one dry out another day before and drop to a weight.
Cheers
 

Bob32014

Member
OK, so what you're saying is get some Ocean Soil and up-pot with that and don't worry about adjusting pH but DO worry about making sure that the water you use is adjusted for about 6.8. And get a digital meter for measuring the pH, not a probe meter (that I already bought). I read your stuff on up-potting and the watering guide also and I like Stu's approach about weighing the pots dry and wet. Thanks again!
 
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Stu

Well-Known Member
Thx the weighing is working well for me, I ph every time to 6.3 and never test run off, I did once out of curiosity but didn’t mark it down in my journal, and don’t remember what it came back at never wrote it down. I also keep a paper journal easier for me that way.
 
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