200 Proof Ethanol: Beware

zeroday

Well-Known Member
Hey Folks,

The best ethanol distillation can do on its own is 180 proof. To get it from there to 200 proof, you would need to drop in some Heptane, sometimes Benzene. Both of those have higher boiling points than Ethanol, so folks think they are getting all of the solvents out of their oil, but leaving trace amounts of Benzene or Heptane behind in the FECO/CCO. As we know, Benzene is a carcinogen, and Heptane isn't much better.

Never drink 200 proof alcohol, or anything that is more than 180 proof (95%), even if mixed with something else.

If you do decide to use 200 proof in your oil making (like me), make sure to go above 98c for a sustained period of time to make sure all of the Ethanol (78.5c), the Benzene (80.1c) and the Heptane (98c) comes off, before consuming the product.

Not such a big deal if you are going to decarb, because you'll decarb at 105c. But for those that make oil for strictly non-psychoactive purposes, this will would pertain.

Happy oil makin!
 
Why not just use Isopropyl alcohol 99% pure -- ?

MotaMan

ISO has a much higher affinity for wax and vegetable oils than ETOH at low temperatures. This makes winterizing/filtering easier. Also, ISO has a higher boiling point, so less efficient from an energy use point of view. Initially, when I first started extracting, I picked ETOH because I felt it was safer if there was trace amounts left behind. However, after reading on the subject over the past few years, it seems ETOH is superior as a solvent for cannabinoids. Some claim 95% ETOH is the perfect azeotrope for cannabinoid extraction.
 
While I see your point not everyone can ensure that his / her process removes all of the carcinogens -- and so what if the boiling point is high - how much more energy is an average extraction going to use? .. Unless you're going commercial scale . I'm old school - if it wasn't broke -- don't try and fix it !

MotaMan
 
Hey Folks,

The best ethanol distillation can do on its own is 180 proof. To get it from there to 200 proof, you would need to drop in some Heptane, sometimes Benzene. Both of those have higher boiling points than Ethanol, so folks think they are getting all of the solvents out of their oil, but leaving trace amounts of Benzene or Heptane behind in the FECO/CCO. As we know, Benzene is a carcinogen, and Heptane isn't much better.

Never drink 200 proof alcohol, or anything that is more than 180 proof (95%), even if mixed with something else.

If you do decide to use 200 proof in your oil making (like me), make sure to go above 98c for a sustained period of time to make sure all of the Ethanol (78.5c), the Benzene (80.1c) and the Heptane (98c) comes off, before consuming the product.

Not such a big deal if you are going to decarb, because you'll decarb at 105c. But for those that make oil for strictly non-psychoactive purposes, this will would pertain.

Happy oil makin!
Just use water and ice the solution is very simple.
 
I hear ya Mota! :passitleft:

My setup and process is meant to be as easy as possible, and as low cost as possible, with the goal of producing the healthiest meds for my own personal consumption. Did I say as low cost as possible? Just like everyone, I'm on a budget. I do process biomass folks in my area provide, at no cost, only because I really enjoy the short path distillation process, honestly. To me, they are doing me a favor by giving me the biomass to have fun with. Like all of us here, I'm a weed nerd. My wife doesn't get it, my kids don't get it, but both of my dogs do, so I'm good.

Only thing I would disagree with you on is the safety of the product, ensuring their are no carcinogens/contaminants. Using the knowledge that was shared by many wise folk on this site, I think its very straightforward to make RSO and get very safe results. I think I started a year and a half ago or so, by looking at what a couple of people on this site were doing for extracting to the RSO point. All I did was take that knowledge and add the short path on top. Today, I'm consistenly getting 85-88% cannabinoid, 80-83% THC oil, lab tested, no remaining solvents or contaminants. I get that not everyone has access to lab testing, but my point is, if you use the right knowledge for the right folks on here, you'll get the results.

Results from last oil run, 2 weekends ago. Dropping samples off at the lab Monday morning. With Covid, its a pain in the ass, by appointment only.

119ml

B368C94C-F69C-457B-965E-1F97725E296B.jpeg
 
Hey Folks,

The best ethanol distillation can do on its own is 180 proof. To get it from there to 200 proof, you would need to drop in some Heptane, sometimes Benzene. Both of those have higher boiling points than Ethanol, so folks think they are getting all of the solvents out of their oil, but leaving trace amounts of Benzene or Heptane behind in the FECO/CCO. As we know, Benzene is a carcinogen, and Heptane isn't much better.

Never drink 200 proof alcohol, or anything that is more than 180 proof (95%), even if mixed with something else.

If you do decide to use 200 proof in your oil making (like me), make sure to go above 98c for a sustained period of time to make sure all of the Ethanol (78.5c), the Benzene (80.1c) and the Heptane (98c) comes off, before consuming the product.

Not such a big deal if you are going to decarb, because you'll decarb at 105c. But for those that make oil for strictly non-psychoactive purposes, this will would pertain.

Happy oil makin!

You state the best ethanol distillation can do on its own is 180 proof or 90% but... Ethanol and water form an azeotrope mixture at 97.2% by volume or 95.6% by mass and it is possible to almost reach these limits with regular distillation practices. I regularly get 95% by volume with my homemade column still measured with an alcohol hydrometer.

Why someone would pay the money for 200 proof laboratory-made ethyl alcohol when 195 proof does an identical job is beyond me. One can either buy Everclear at that proof or build a still themselves and make their own as I do.
 
Like all of us here, I'm a weed nerd. My wife doesn't get it, my kids don't get it, but both of my dogs do, so I'm good.
I'm in the same boat as you, but no dogs, so I have got no one around me that gets it. :straightface:
 
Hey Folks,

The best ethanol distillation can do on its own is 180 proof. To get it from there to 200 proof, you would need to drop in some Heptane, sometimes Benzene. Both of those have higher boiling points than Ethanol, so folks think they are getting all of the solvents out of their oil, but leaving trace amounts of Benzene or Heptane behind in the FECO/CCO. As we know, Benzene is a carcinogen, and Heptane isn't much better.

Never drink 200 proof alcohol, or anything that is more than 180 proof (95%), even if mixed with something else.

If you do decide to use 200 proof in your oil making (like me), make sure to go above 98c for a sustained period of time to make sure all of the Ethanol (78.5c), the Benzene (80.1c) and the Heptane (98c) comes off, before consuming the product.

Not such a big deal if you are going to decarb, because you'll decarb at 105c. But for those that make oil for strictly non-psychoactive purposes, this will would pertain.

Happy oil makin!

Minor detail to add... The key words is "denatured" and "non-denatured or food grade".

Denatured Alcohol is 200 proof alcohol that has additives which prevent people from drinking it and getting around the alcohol tax. They do sell "food grade" 200 proof ethanol too which does not have the additives, it's just extremely expensive as the tax is more than double the cost of the ethanol.

There are a handful of "cannabis friendly" ethanol distributors who make ethanol specifically for cannabis extractions too. It is denatured, so it does have additives and avoids the tax, however you have to make sure you evaporate the additives as well. Allegedly they are supposed to be additives which are easy to remove, but buyer beware.

Food Grade are the key words to look for :)

Great post though and very good info!
 
Minor detail to add... The key words is "denatured" and "food grade".

Denatured Alcohol is 200 proof alcohol that has additives which prevent people from drinking it and getting around the alcohol tax. They do sell "food grade" 200 proof ethanol too which does not have the additives, it's just extremely expensive as the tax is more than double the cost of the ethanol.

There are a handful of "cannabis friendly" ethanol distributors who make ethanol specifically for cannabis extractions too. It is denatured, so it does have additives and avoids the tax, however you have to make sure you evaporate the additives as well. Allegedly they are supposed to be additives which are easy to remove, but buyer beware.

Food Grade are the key words to look for :)

Great post though and very good info!
Thats why I use Extractahol.
Food grade 200 proof .
Cost about $100 for over a gallon shipped to my doorstep and it will last more than a year because I only lose a tablespoon or two per batch
 
ISO is flat out toxic.
Explain -- I work with medical implants / equipment mfg and we constantly use ISO 99 % -- this is not to be confused with methanol -- and no one in the 40 yrs using the 99 % has fallen ill..

Maybe you can educate me -- all knowledge is welcome -- some sort of publication maybe.

MotaMan
 
Explain -- I work with medical implants / equipment mfg and we constantly use ISO 99 % -- this is not to be confused with methanol -- and no one in the 40 yrs using the 99 % has fallen ill..

Maybe you can educate me -- all knowledge is welcome -- some sort of publication maybe.

MotaMan
Iso alcohol is denatured, they add a toxic substance to it.
It also converts into acetone when it goes through the liver.
You can get away consuming small amounts but unless you have no other options id advise against it

 
You state the best ethanol distillation can do on its own is 180 proof or 90% but... Ethanol and water form an azeotrope mixture at 97.2% by volume or 95.6% by mass and it is possible to almost reach these limits with regular distillation practices. I regularly get 95% by volume with my homemade column still measured with an alcohol hydrometer.

Why someone would pay the money for 200 proof laboratory-made ethyl alcohol when 195 proof does an identical job is beyond me. One can either buy Everclear at that proof or build a still themselves and make their own as I do.

200 proof is cheaper in quantity, and easier to get than food grade is, in my neck of the woods. Currently, a 5 gallon tote is $150, vs a handle of Everclear at $34.99.

Sorry, I meant 190 proof. To get it higher than that you'd have to add something, or use a molecular sieve to get the remaining water out. If its all being evaporated out anyway, I suppose it doesn't matter. But for consumption, I'm not a fan of the "additives".
 
Forgot to add. For those that do use any kind of 200 proof ethanol, a good experiment would be to test the alcohol percentage post extraction/evaporation. I'd bet a nickel it falls to 190. You can buy a Hydrometer pretty cheap on amazon.

Note, I am not sure about Extractathol, never used it. Anything I have used drops.

Why does it matter? It probably doesn't, unless your are a cheap bastard and care about fractions of pennies, like me! It's not like I'm selling anything, but we are all on a *relatively* tight budget. I like to squeeze every cent out of everything (except cars).
 
200 proof is cheaper in quantity, and easier to get than food grade is, in my neck of the woods. Currently, a 5 gallon tote is $150, vs a handle of Everclear at $34.99.

Sorry, I meant 190 proof. To get it higher than that you'd have to add something, or use a molecular sieve to get the remaining water out. If its all being evaporated out anyway, I suppose it doesn't matter. But for consumption, I'm not a fan of the "additives".
Five gallons of 200 proof for $150 is crazy cheap for alcohol compared to here so now I understand your incentive. Here in Ontario at the LCBO about a quart of 95% alcohol is almost $100 which is why I make my own.

And yes, I don't want anything to do with the additives either that get you past azeotropic so I am happy with the 95% I make myself. Whatever you are using you seem to have a nice clean product. Congrats.
 
Five gallons of 200 proof for $150 is crazy cheap for alcohol compared to here so now I understand your incentive. Here in Ontario at the LCBO about a quart of 95% alcohol is almost $100 which is why I make my own.

And yes, I don't want anything to do with the additives either that get you past azeotropic so I am happy with the 95% I make myself. Whatever you are using you seem to have a nice clean product. Congrats.

As soon as I have the time and can figure it out, I'll be making my own moonshine. Its on the list, the very very long list, of things to learn!

:lot-o-toke:
 
As soon as I have the time and can figure it out, I'll be making my own moonshine. Its on the list, the very very long list, of things to learn!

:lot-o-toke:
I started out making hard apple cider and then got the idea to try to make a little still to make some Apple Brandy with. Trying to do that I found a site called, Home Distiller, Home Distiller - Index page, where I realized how cheap it was to make a neutral spirit. But you can find out how to make anything there alcohol-related.

It’s a great resource just like here where someone will always usually answer your question but they’re not quite as affable there as folks are here. But you don’t even have to get a membership and post because you can search and find just about any answer you need. Lots of very knowledgeable people over there about lots of things stilling related.

My favorite member over there was Rad14701 because he knew everything and could answer every question and was a very smart man but he got banned because he was kind of short-tempered with people that asked the same stupid questions over and over or would ask basic questions without doing any reading.

Don't feel obligated to check it out but I mentioned it because I learned a lot there and have enjoyed distilling as a hobby.
 
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