4 weeks into flower and rapid yellowing

Mattman1211

New Member
Hi folks, as title says I am four weeks into flowering (soil grow) and the leaves on my plants are rapidly yellowing (all over pretty much), this happened to one of my last plants and I have followed the advice given at that time for these 3 plants. Gave them a full strength dose of biogrow N8, P2, K2 and have then been feeding biobloom N2, P6, K3.5 every second watering. I would normally put this down to an N deficiency but I don't see how this can be if I am feeding regularly. Any ideas or tips would be appreciated. have done a search too but can't find anything to help me

Mattman
 
Let me take this oppurtunity to say that I have no problems accepting rep. points. :cheesygrinsmiley:
 
More importantly than what you're feeding it is what the PH of the soil is and what water you're using. Some will tell you that a PH of 6.0 is correct but if you look at my grow, the soil PH was always in the 6.4 to 6.8 range and they did fine until I starved them for the last 2 weeks of the grow. Most growers do that to reduce the nutrient salts in the plants but it forces the plants to feed off of the fan leaves. It makes them look ill but they're actually very healthy....untill...CHOP CHOP!
 
Pics I jus took

P1000183.jpg


yellow2.jpg
 
Sounds like a nutrient lock out. Mix a 2 teaspoons of Epsom salt in 1 gallon of water, and water well with that. Then neutral PH water on the next watering, then back to bloom nutes to until flushing at the finish. Keep your nute PH in the 6.2-6.8 range.
 
They need more Phosphorus - I just had a plant do the same thing at day 30 ... they're just being nute whores is all... give them the bio-bloom with every watering ... (bio-bloom is pretty mild) and add the Epsom Salts to the next feeding like Akornpatch said..

The big fan leaves won't turn green again, but the small leaves in the buds will start to look healthy again in a few days.

Peace
MC
 
Thanks for the help Akorn & MC will get all that done tomoz.

Also, is there any particular cause for nute lockout or can there be a wide variety of reasons?
 
Usually the PH being off is the #1 cause... quickly followed up by #2 over-feeding, and #3 over-watering.. but temps can also cause lockouts, especially during flowering. Our girls like to keep their rootballs at room temp. Sitting on cool floors in the wintertime with low humidity can cause lockouts even if the PH is perfect..

Just a few examples ....lol...

Peace
MC
 
Usually the PH being off is the #1 cause... quickly followed up by #2 over-feeding, and #3 over-watering.. but temps can also cause lockouts, especially during flowering. Our girls like to keep their rootballs at room temp. Sitting on cool floors in the wintertime with low humidity can cause lockouts even if the PH is perfect..

Just a few examples ....lol...

Peace
MC

Did you finally get something to keep the plants up off of the floor, MC? :smokin:
I found 3 wheeled, wire dollies in the dollar store for $2 each. I saw those and bought the entire box of 10 dollies. They'll hold a 5 gallon bucket and with three wheels on them, moving the girls around in the grow room will be a breeze.

... they're just being nute whores is all...

I always love the technical terminilogy of MC :laughtwo: but that's exactly what they're doing or acting like it because of PH lockout. Hopefully the soil mix you're using allows for a lot of drainage out the bottom of the pot or bucket. Like MC said, overwatering is bad. MJ likes to dry out between waterings. Soil that doesn't drain will always be soggy and since you can't add water, you won't be able to feed the plants.
 
Hi gorilla, my soil mix drains well and I always let my plants dry out (not quite completely) before i water/feed again, i have a moisture meter so can gauge watering pretty well.

Mc's advice and info is always great, always said in a way that even I can understand, who needs technical terminology eh?......lolol
 
Bought the Epsom Salts today, lights come on later so will deal with that then, I just have two more questions about them, should I be using them anyway or are they only really used for this situation I find myself in?

and what is it I am doing to the plant by putting the salts in, (ie. ph up/down, i realise it could have nothing to do with ph, just an example) or what?

Thanks for the help so far

Mattman
 
#1 - You should continue to water with the epsom salts until all the symptoms disappear. You won't be using them typically unless you have this kind of situation.

#2 - The salts contain and allow the uptake of nutrients, specifically Magnesium (not Phosphorus). You probably won't need the Epsom if your fertilizers contain Magnesium.

Keep your PH in line and this probably won't happen.

Keep us posted.

Peace,
Akorn:bongrip:
 
Jus thought I would post some pics of the three plants from today so you can see the whole problem and will also be a good comparison for taking photos in a few days time. Hopefully all will be okay, I think they look pretty good other than the colour.

Plant 1
Plant-1-yellow.JPG


Plant 2
Plant-2-Yellow.jpg


Plant 3
plant-3-yellow.jpg


will keep you posted
 
Hey guys, jus a quick update, have been in tending my garden this evening and from what i can see there has been no increase in the yellowing and as MC said the leaves in the buds are looking healthier, gonna keep an eye on it (obviously) but all is looking good :cheesygrinsmiley:

Thanks again for all the help Roorman, Akorn, MC and Gorilla, is very much appreciated :allgood:
 
Thanks Endo

So.........i am pretty sure I was completely wrong about the yellowing getting better, I know it has only been four days since I got the Epsom Salts but I was 'gardening' tonight and am sure the yellowing is worse and there is a red colour coming through on some of the leaves, pics pending. :eek:(

Would Flushing do any good? or am i just being impatient
 
Back
Top Bottom