48x24x60 grow tent, which AC Infinity Cloudline T4 or T6 for exhaust with scrubber?

[SoSoD3ff]

Hey guys I'm super noob and still reading a learning as much as I can, trying to figure out what equipment I should buy. I'm a little confused on how much cfm I need to exhaust with a scrubber attached and a very short straight ducting. I was reading that you should exchange the air inside the tent like x4 a min. So the cu ft of the 48x24x60 text is 40cu ft, everyone on here says that adding scrubber and ducting will reduce the cfm advertised for fan. So something with roughly 160-300cfm would be ideal for the 1:4 ratio for air exchange?

Cloudline T4 = 152cfm (barely enough cfm without scrubber attached)
Cloudline T6 = 351cfm (no sure why such a big boost in cfm from a 4" to 6" fan)

I really like how the Cloudline series has everything automated for temp and fan speeds without a use of a external timer or fan speed controller (heard these buzz or vibrate when limiting speeds).

The tent will be in my spare room which has central AC for the whole house and will be set to 80 degrees when I'm not home and 77 degrees when I'm home.

Other equipment I'm planning on getting:

- VIPARSPECTRA Reflector-Series V600 600W LED Grow Light Full Spectrum for Indoor Plants Veg and Flower
- x2 8-Inch Oscillating Table Fan (one on ground and one on the roof the the tent to promote air circulation)

Also would I need an intake fan as well? The 2 vents at the bottom of the tent are mesh would that be enough fresh air drawn in? I don't really think temps will be a problem as I can always turn my AC down.

Any input from the build masters would be much appreciated, I look forward to responses thank you.

 

[TurboBucket]

Looks like your on your way to a well thought out build.
I played with one of the T4 fans they are very quiet but don't make much static pressure so they lose a lot of airflow with a filter attached. The T6 should be enough to ventilate a 4x4 with a 6x16-24" filter but may come up short with hot lights.

I'm a big fan of my Hyperfan. With the available temp control it's the same concept as the cloudline (temp controlled EC motor) with a better motor and rotor design. They're not the cheapest out there but the static pressure and operating cost are second to none.

 

[SoSoD3ff]

Looks like your on your way to a well thought out build.
I played with one of the T4 fans they are very quiet but don't make much static pressure so they lose a lot of airflow with a filter attached. The T6 should be enough to ventilate a 4x4 with a 6x16-24" filter but may come up short with hot lights.

I'm a big fan of my Hyperfan. With the available temp control it's the same concept as the cloudline (temp controlled EC motor) with a better motor and rotor design. They're not the cheapest out there but the static pressure and operating cost are second to none.

Thank you...thank you...I'm trying to do as much research I can before asking for help haha.

Ok so T6 it is...I did take a look at the Hyper fans also, I saw you post in another thread mentioning them both so I decided to research both. Unfortunately the Hyper Fan along with the controller is out of my budget as I'm going to be buying everything else new.

Do you think the VIPARSPECTRA Reflector series led light is going to put off a lot of heat? I was actually thinking of buying x2 of the dimmable 300w versions instead of the one 600w, it comes out to the same price for 2.

Any input on the intake side of things? Do you think I would be ok with just the vents on the bottom of the tent or should I get an intake fan also? I'm assuming we won't really know this until I get the plants in there and see what the temps look like?

Thanks for the help.

 

[TurboBucket]

Should be fine with the passive intakes. Two light sources will give more even coverage than one. Dimmable is always nice. Mars makes comparable lights and they are a sponsor here, always nice to give them a little business.

 

[SoSoD3ff]

The passive intakes will needs to be shut when budding or flowering correct? I was reading that weed is very sensitive to light when flowering any slightest light can delay days even weeks?

Thanks so much Turbo I really appreciate the wisdom. I'll check them out the brand is called Mars Hydro correct?

 

[TurboBucket]

That depends on where your tent is at but yes they need to be in uninterrupted darkness for 12+hours during the flowering cycle.

Correct should become able to find them on the sponsor page. Quantum boards or other similar diy setup are the hot lights right now. Check out timber grow lights while your in the sponsor section.

No problem man. Happy to help

 

[SamSmith]

I run both Mars and Vipraspectra lights. I have 2 300 HP Vipra's running in my 2.5' x 2.5' x 5'. They don't produce much in the way of heat. I would choose 2 lights over one any day. The Vipra's are nice because you plug the additional lights into the first in your chain so there is just one cord going to the timer.

I run a 4" Ventech with carbon filter in that tent with a speed controller set to about 60% power. I run a can fan 4" in my 4' x4' x7' with a mars 320 epistar LED that pulls 740 or so from the wall and that is marginal removing heat. I grow in my basement with the central air running in warmer months and the vents shut in the winter so my abient temps are pretty stable and low. The 6" turned down would be a better choice for a tent the size that I have.

If you run a 6" and you have the room dark you can get by just fine with the passive intakes. You want to pull a vacuum on the tent anyway for odor control. What I do is run a 4" dryer vent line into one of the lower intakes. Snaking it around removes the light from getting through while allowing free air flow.

 

[SoSoD3ff]

I run both Mars and Vipraspectra lights. I have 2 300 HP Vipra's running in my 2.5' x 2.5' x 5'. They don't produce much in the way of heat. I would choose 2 lights over one any day. The Vipra's are nice because you plug the additional lights into the first in your chain so there is just one cord going to the timer.

I run a 4" Ventech with carbon filter in that tent with a speed controller set to about 60% power. I run a can fan 4" in my 4' x4' x7' with a mars 320 epistar LED that pulls 740 or so from the wall and that is marginal removing heat. I grow in my basement with the central air running in warmer months and the vents shut in the winter so my abient temps are pretty stable and low. The 6" turned down would be a better choice for a tent the size that I have.

If you run a 6" and you have the room dark you can get by just fine with the passive intakes. You want to pull a vacuum on the tent anyway for odor control. What I do is run a 4" dryer vent line into one of the lower intakes. Snaking it around removes the light from getting through while allowing free air flow.

Mr. Smith from the Matrix? Haha jk! You're the man...this is exactly what I was needing.

Ok I'll go with the x2 300w Vipras...I really liked that daisy chain feature they had on there as well. My spare room isn't completely dark there is still light that enters from the blinds...but I do keep them shut all the time do you think this will still be a problem?

Ah so you just connect some 4" ducting to the vents and tape up the edges or something?

Thanks for you help!

 

[TurboBucket]

Most tents have a drawstring opening for round duct no need for tape. The round openings tend to be smaller than the squares (varies by mfg) so keep that in mind.
You could run your lights on a schedule close to daylight hours to negate the outside light.
I would strongly urge you to look at quantum boards they are definitely better than blurples. Not to say you can't grow plants with them but if your spending money may as well get the good stuff.

 

[SoSoD3ff]

Most tents have a drawstring opening for round duct no need for tape. The round openings tend to be smaller than the squares (varies by mfg) so keep that in mind.
You could run your lights on a schedule close to daylight hours to negate the outside light.
I would strongly urge you to look at quantum boards they are definitely better than blurples. Not to say you can't grow plants with them but if your spending money may as well get the good stuff.

Oh so you're saying to use the 6" round opening and to close off the velcro mesh vents (my tent has x2 6" drawstring holes next to the mesh vents on both sides)? Those with ducting attached should be enough intake air coming in for my setup?

I'm assuming the Vipra brand is a "burple" kind of light? I just looked at the Quantum LED lights and they're almost double the price. I kinda want to stay within a budget for this first setup. If I'm successful then I think I can buy another tent and go balls out maybe have 2 different tents...one for veg and the other for flowering.

Also that's a great idea about running the lights close to normal daylight hours. What is the typical light schedule most use 18/6 or 20/4? Or does it depend on the specific strain?

 

[SoSoD3ff]

I took another look at the Quantum Board LED lights, and found a HLG 100 Quantum Board LED Grow Lamp Veg & Bloom 3000K which says it's good for 3x3 veg and 2x2 bloom for $149...do you think 1 of these will be good enough in my 4x2x5 tent or would x2 be ideal? I'm thinking I can start with 1 then add another 1 when I get more funds.

I found this thread on another forum...not sure if I can post it here if not I'll take it down. Timber quantum board

How come the kits in that thread of the Quantum Boards are so much more expensive? I assume because they're different companies and higher wattage that produce more heat therefore needed added heat sinks and stuff?

 

[SamSmith]

I think turbo covered your question about using the 6" opening and tighten down the drawstrings to be snug on the vent hose. I coil it up a bit outside the tent and run the end into a dark corner so the light can't pass down it. I also run my flower schedule as close to the natural occurring daylight schedule as possible.

You can run 20/4 or 18/6 in veg for photo's. I run mine 18/6 to reduce the time that the lights are on when light leakage might be an issue. Auto's are probably better on that schedule. Flower I was running 12/12 but with my sativa dominate hybrids I may go 11/13.

 

[SoSoD3ff]

I think turbo covered your question about using the 6" opening and tighten down the drawstrings to be snug on the vent hose. I coil it up a bit outside the tent and run the end into a dark corner so the light can't pass down it. I also run my flower schedule as close to the natural occurring daylight schedule as possible.

You can run 20/4 or 18/6 in veg for photo's. I run mine 18/6 to reduce the time that the lights are on when light leakage might be an issue. Auto's are probably better on that schedule. Flower I was running 12/12 but with my sativa dominate hybrids I may go 11/13.

 

[TurboBucket]

Timber is a sponsor here you can find all their kits through their link. They package the hlg boards as a kit. There are a lot of options now. The 100 is a smaller light less diodes less driver etc

Yes two of those in there would be great. One of them would be fine but it will be hard to cover it all with good light intensity. Get one now add another one later as you mentioned.

 

[Amiro]

I’m new also and did reading like you did, so far what I found for me was the humidity and not so much the temperature I had to control. My setup is a 3x3x72 with a 4” scrubbed fan 200cfm at the top, 6” hose with filter at the bottom( I didnt want to use the vent for the light reason and prevent other things to get in to my plants) so far no smell and I find it very quiet, I use a full spectrum 1000w led light setup at 18/6 for veg (low in power consumption and low on heat produced), small fan to circulate air, a CO2 generating bag, cloth pots for the plant.

I started worrying about the heat as it was in my basement and its is cooler but like I said I changed from a heater to a de-humidifier as the humidity level was getting a bit too high.

I use Sonoff relays for my tent some for turning on/off and others for temp/Humidity control. Right now my tent is dialed in at around 77f - 66% while the room is around 72f - 55% with the de-humidifier.At first I started air exchange 5 min every hour then went up to 5 min every 30 min when the humidity was too high, now it has 5 min every hour plus the humidity is controlled by the relays set at the level I wants, very stable right now, the plants are growing fast !!! I used a good organic soil and the plants seems to strive well on it so no nute put in yet (4 weeks in) With this set up I can tell how my tent is doing even away from home because of the Sonoff and the app on my phone and I can make small adjustment on the go. Every house and location is different where someone decide to grow so you might have to adjust to your needs. So to recap is my setup the best NO but its the best for me for the room I got and the budget I wanted to put in while giving the best chance to a successful grow, I plan to use my tent at harvest time to dry the buds on hanging mesh baskets.
Hope this can help you make some choice for your setup and your needs, Happy Growing!!!

 

[SoSoD3ff]

I’m new also and did reading like you did, so far what I found for me was the humidity and not so much the temperature I had to control. My setup is a 3x3x72 with a 4” scrubbed fan 200cfm at the top, 6” hose with filter at the bottom( I didnt want to use the vent for the light reason and prevent other things to get in to my plants) so far no smell and I find it very quiet, I use a full spectrum 1000w led light setup at 18/6 for veg (low in power consumption and low on heat produced), small fan to circulate air, a CO2 generating bag, cloth pots for the plant.

I started worrying about the heat as it was in my basement and its is cooler but like I said I changed from a heater to a de-humidifier as the humidity level was getting a bit too high.

I use Sonoff relays for my tent some for turning on/off and others for temp/Humidity control. Right now my tent is dialed in at around 77f - 66% while the room is around 72f - 55% with the de-humidifier.At first I started air exchange 5 min every hour then went up to 5 min every 30 min when the humidity was too high, now it has 5 min every hour plus the humidity is controlled by the relays set at the level I wants, very stable right now, the plants are growing fast !!! I used a good organic soil and the plants seems to strive well on it so no nute put in yet (4 weeks in) With this set up I can tell how my tent is doing even away from home because of the Sonoff and the app on my phone and I can make small adjustment on the go. Every house and location is different where someone decide to grow so you might have to adjust to your needs. So to recap is my setup the best NO but its the best for me for the room I got and the budget I wanted to put in while giving the best chance to a successful grow, I plan to use my tent at harvest time to dry the buds on hanging mesh baskets.
Hope this can help you make some choice for your setup and your needs, Happy Growing!!!

Hi Amiro, thanks for the input this helps me out a lot. Does that 4" exhaust fan move enough air for your 3x3x6 text? I was thinking of solutions for humidity as well...I live in Southern Cali so the humidity doesn't go way up often but the temps do. What part of the world do you live in?

I guess I'll have to buy my setup and test it on some plants to see what my temp and humidity numbers are. What kind of house plants mimics weed the closest?

How is everyone checking the PPM or food/ nute levels in soil grows? Can't really test the run off water so do you just add it and hope for the best?

 

[Amiro]

Hi Amiro, thanks for the input this helps me out a lot. Does that 4" exhaust fan move enough air for your 3x3x6 text? I was thinking of solutions for humidity as well...I live in Southern Cali so the humidity doesn't go way up often but the temps do. What part of the world do you live in?

I guess I'll have to buy my setup and test it on some plants to see what my temp and humidity numbers are. What kind of house plants mimics weed the closest?

How is everyone checking the PPM or food/ nute levels in soil grows? Can't really test the run off water so do you just add it and hope for the best?

Your welcome!! Ya the fan moves a lot of air so much so that I got it turn down on her control plus my inlet of air I went to a 6” because it should be a big bigger from the exhaust, I think I could of use a 8” the tent sucks in when the fan goes!! I live in eastern Canada and it is very humid here, this summer was even more humid plus my tent is in the basement in a room where there is no window. The fan do keep my humidity down and with the de-humidifier in the room it gives of a little heat and with the led in the tent it maintains the temp very good at around 77F while my humidity is average at 66%, so it seems that my plant are liking it.
Like I said before you are going to adjust to your climate like maybe have a humidifier if it’s too low or even have to cool it down if it’s get too hot.
I have probes in the soil for humidity/PH and sensors in the tent and in the room for temp and humidity.
For CO2 i wanted to check so I got a tester for it, normal air around do contain CO2 anyway but I wanted to give a little more to the plant so I got a CO2 generating bag in the tent.
I’m lucky as I got town water and also well water from the hill behind my house, the water is very good there.
I didnt start to give nuttes to the plant yet, my soil was very in organic so maybe in the flowering stage I will give a little.
What I did before I started to grow was to setup the sensors to see what I would have to adjust when I started to grow, temp/humidity in the room.
Hope this help!!

 

[SamSmith]

Humidity is harder to control than temperature for me anyway. Sometimes it's too high and other times too low.

There are test soil probes that you can use in soil. Hanna and Blue Lab are not cheap but good solid meters. There are people that measure the run off for PPM. You know what's going in so you will see it build if you're getting too much in there. I am not a soil guy. Van Stank, Chris and a few others are top notch with it.

 

[SoSoD3ff]

Your welcome!! Ya the fan moves a lot of air so much so that I got it turn down on her control plus my inlet of air I went to a 6” because it should be a big bigger from the exhaust, I think I could of use a 8” the tent sucks in when the fan goes!! I live in eastern Canada and it is very humid here, this summer was even more humid plus my tent is in the basement in a room where there is no window. The fan do keep my humidity down and with the de-humidifier in the room it gives of a little heat and with the led in the tent it maintains the temp very good at around 77F while my humidity is average at 66%, so it seems that my plant are liking it.
Like I said before you are going to adjust to your climate like maybe have a humidifier if it’s too low or even have to cool it down if it’s get too hot.
I have probes in the soil for humidity/PH and sensors in the tent and in the room for temp and humidity.
For CO2 i wanted to check so I got a tester for it, normal air around do contain CO2 anyway but I wanted to give a little more to the plant so I got a CO2 generating bag in the tent.
I’m lucky as I got town water and also well water from the hill behind my house, the water is very good there.
I didnt start to give nuttes to the plant yet, my soil was very in organic so maybe in the flowering stage I will give a little.
What I did before I started to grow was to setup the sensors to see what I would have to adjust when I started to grow, temp/humidity in the room.
Hope this help!!

The tent I'm looking at has 8" in intakes on the bottom as well as the velcro mesh vents. Also when you say 5min for every 30min does that mean the exhaust fan is on only for 5min every 30min? I thought the exhaust fan needs to be on all the time?

I think once I start ordering all my parts I'm going to set it all up and see what a constant temp/ rH I can come up with. The temps I'll be able to control with my central AC and with my exhaust fan but my rH is going to be another story. Humidity is usually pretty low where I live and being inside should have it pretty low also.

Humidity is harder to control than temperature for me anyway. Sometimes it's too high and other times too low.

There are test soil probes that you can use in soil. Hanna and Blue Lab are not cheap but good solid meters. There are people that measure the run off for PPM. You know what's going in so you will see it build if you're getting too much in there. I am not a soil guy. Van Stank, Chris and a few others are top notch with it.

I think that will be the same for me controlling the humidity vs the temps.

From reading on here "coco" seems to be the most forgiving meaning it can be flushed easily to reach the desired ph and ppm levels if you go over or if the plant doesn't like the current ratios. But I've also read that with coco watering needs to happen more often...which makes me think more waste/ run off for water and nutes. Can this run off be caught and reused? How do people that use soil regulate the ppm levels...I was reading and people say don't even bother with the soil probs they're junk.

 

[SamSmith]

Coco is very forgiving in terms of growing in it. You like some others touched on the downside to using it with the frequent watering. I know Ace and I water to slight runoff. Most of it evaporates during the day that is how little goes in the drip trays. I do periodically flush with a flushing product in plain water to rinse out any salt buildup that might occur. I suppose one could try to capture runoff and reuse it but I haven't seen anyone do it yet.

The nutrient bill is probably about on par with other forms of hydro so to your point it's more expensive than soil but to me it's still not significant in the overall scheme of things. The yield and speed are where hydro exels although some of the soil guys here @Van Stank @Chris Scorpio and others kill it in soil.