Acapulco & Blue Cheese Auto

I grew Acapulco Gold,but it was the photo type. I loved the buds. Little hand grenades, but super dense. Tasted a bit like licorice... an unusual trait. I hope yours turns out well.

I wanted to offer the following... when my plants get mopey I give em a dash of Fulvic acid. The best is Fulpower from Bioag. Fulvex from Botanicare works very well too, but I've never seen the same outcome with Gen Hydro's Diamond Nectar. To ba honest I give it to them all the time. Fulvic acid helps chelate nutrients, which makes nutrients more bioavailable in a flush and helps lock out. It does a ton of things, kinda like Silica, but it's all good. It's super mellow. You can use it as a foliar spray if you need it now. It can be used in any medium I grow in hydro usually. It's the goods, and not nosebleed expensive.

Here is a case study on my claims of fulvic acid greatness... these 2 plants were monster cropped and gutted for clones. They weren't getting properly fed and the light was turned way down. I wasn't sure if I was keeping them as mothers or send them to flower. I decided to do the later. The plants had bright purple stems, the leaves showed a few deficiencies, and had issues from the monster cropping. I decided to flower them. The smaller plant wasn't growing fast enough so I pulled it

Before:

As it is right now:

It's not the most amazing plant, but a million times better than it was. I hope this helps... cheers!
 
I think blue cheese is about to flower....can someone confirm if these are pistils?
Yes those are pistils. I first thought they were stipules, but nope. You will see a calyx at the bottom of the spikes soon
 
I grew Acapulco Gold,but it was the photo type. I loved the buds. Little hand grenades, but super dense. Tasted a bit like licorice... an unusual trait. I hope yours turns out well.

I wanted to offer the following... when my plants get mopey I give em a dash of Fulvic acid. The best is Fulpower from Bioag. Fulvex from Botanicare works very well too, but I've never seen the same outcome with Gen Hydro's Diamond Nectar. To ba honest I give it to them all the time. Fulvic acid helps chelate nutrients, which makes nutrients more bioavailable in a flush and helps lock out. It does a ton of things, kinda like Silica, but it's all good. It's super mellow. You can use it as a foliar spray if you need it now. It can be used in any medium I grow in hydro usually. It's the goods, and not nosebleed expensive.

Here is a case study on my claims of fulvic acid greatness... these 2 plants were monster cropped and gutted for clones. They weren't getting properly fed and the light was turned way down. I wasn't sure if I was keeping them as mothers or send them to flower. I decided to do the later. The plants had bright purple stems, the leaves showed a few deficiencies, and had issues from the monster cropping. I decided to flower them. The smaller plant wasn't growing fast enough so I pulled it

Before:

As it is right now:

It's not the most amazing plant, but a million times better than it was. I hope this helps... cheers!

Sorry for my arrogance as I'm learning still! But when you say you feed them vulvic acid all the time, is that when you feed and flush?
 
Sorry for my arrogance as I'm learning still! But when you say you feed them vulvic acid all the time, is that when you feed and flush?
Yeah. To be clear, I give it to them all the time in any method if growing. It seems like plant lithium. They cheer the hell up when they're on it. If I flush I only add fulvic acid no sweeteners, no flushing agents. That plant I shared turned a major corner.

Depending on where you live it may be called humic acid. There are differences but I dont know what they are. According to the state of California both need to be called Fulvic acid. If you try it I think you'll find it's worth the cash.
 
First post of 2020:blunt:

Day 30

BC had some good growth since feeding

AG showed some good growth last night and looks to be preflowering as well.

Both are nice and perky today. Cant wait to see how these little bonsai progress.

Stretch time!
 

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Wondering if its worth just pulling these girls and starting new ones or continue on and flower them. I'm just thinking if its worth all the electricity cost to get a tiny yield, which I think this will be. Thoughts?
 
Wondering if its worth just pulling these girls and starting new ones or continue on and flower them. I'm just thinking if its worth all the electricity cost to get a tiny yield, which I think this will be. Thoughts?
You can learn a ton by seeing them through, but I'm notorious for pulling the problem children. I had a group of Lemon Skunk. They were slow, grumpy, little bastards. So I pulled the smallest one, tacked it to the wall and told the rest "this is what happens when you dont perform!!!"
Now, I'm not telling you to RIP anything out. I'm just saying...

See if theres a way to get them to perk the hell up.
 
Noticed BC getting droopy around 8pm or so and lights off is 12am, I'm assuming when they droop they are ready for sleep so I changed light at 18-6 so 10pm will now be lights off and will keep it at this for duration of grow.

Comments welcome
 
Hey @780grow I thought I’d come try and take a look to get a better idea of your grow space.

I had my plants drooping, more often when the lights went off. Then I noticed they were drooping just before lights went off. I did read somewhere this is often seen in the first few weeks of flower. I can’t guarantee this is just something which happens, but after the flowering stretch mine were back to normal except one, one stayed droopy, had weak stems but yielded as well as the other 7. I’ve no idea why, it was treated with the same love as the rest. But in the end it did ok.

The common thing I see online is, get your environment in check. Double check everything is perfect, if your plants are unhappy, it’s usually something you can resolve. As just a 2nd time grower, I’d never dream of pulling plants, especially 30 days in, but this is just because the experience I learned over the 1st grow has helped me massively already.
 
In
Noticed BC getting droopy around 8pm or so and lights off is 12am, I'm assuming when they droop they are ready for sleep so I changed light at 18-6 so 10pm will now be lights off and will keep it at this for duration of grow.

Comments welcome
Most plants will droop before lights out. They will also stand back up before lights on.
 
Hey @780grow I thought I’d come try and take a look to get a better idea of your grow space.

I had my plants drooping, more often when the lights went off. Then I noticed they were drooping just before lights went off. I did read somewhere this is often seen in the first few weeks of flower. I can’t guarantee this is just something which happens, but after the flowering stretch mine were back to normal except one, one stayed droopy, had weak stems but yielded as well as the other 7. I’ve no idea why, it was treated with the same love as the rest. But in the end it did ok.

The common thing I see online is, get your environment in check. Double check everything is perfect, if your plants are unhappy, it’s usually something you can resolve. As just a 2nd time grower, I’d never dream of pulling plants, especially 30 days in, but this is just because the experience I learned over the 1st grow has helped me massively already.

I believe my environment is pretty good in my tent right now, temperatures around 26c with humidity around 50-55%. I think it might be my watering method during seedling stage thats hindering root development. I
I've decided to not pull them and continue monitoring, even if it means small yield Im sure I will learn a couple lessons through flowering phase!

My biggest concern is wasted electricity on small yield but it is what it is....which is why i decided to drop another seed to add to the mix....o_O
 
In

Most plants will droop before lights out. They will also stand back up before lights on.

Mine are definitely drooping before lights out, but 4 hours before lights I thought seem excessful, which is why I changed lights out a couple hours early so they are only experiencing roughly 2 hours of light while they are droopy and ready to sleep. I'm trying to "read my plants" Sounds logical in my head but sometimes Im out to lunch! :blunt:
 
Mine are definitely drooping before lights out, but 4 hours before lights I thought seem excessful, which is why I changed lights out a couple hours early so they are only experiencing roughly 2 hours of light while they are droopy and ready to sleep. I'm trying to "read my plants" Sounds logical in my head but sometimes Im out to lunch! :blunt:
Mine are about 3-4 hrs before lights out but I keep the lights burning.
Wondering if its worth just pulling these girls and starting new ones or continue on and flower them. I'm just thinking if its worth all the electricity cost to get a tiny yield, which I think this will be. Thoughts?
I try and run bag seed on a new set up to get it dialed in on the first grow. Let it grow and make the mistakes on this one.
 
I bet Flashmp3 that this plant wouldn't do well. It was a pain in the ass the entire grow, but woke up and did pretty well.

Sometimes it just comes down to economics like you were saying. Can you afford to put 4 months of light into a plant(s) that will only give an ounce... I've never grown an auto to be clear. I understand some auto strains arent very stable, but again I dont do autos. I had a really bad grow last season that affected this season, so I only have 1 plant for a 50 gallon RDWC and an 1100watt HPS (only using 650, but it's a lot for one plant. I would never plan it like that. The last time I dint have a full hydro I had 2 plants and did 27oz. But not every strain can do that, it just worked out

I wanted to share this chart. It shows that not every seed is created equal.
Some strains suck. I've grown a lot of seeds from DNA genetics. They kinda specialize in fruity flavors, they did Tangie for instance. But I had issues with a lot of their seeds. So, even breeders themselves can put out a problematic product.

If you had droopy plants it could be a million things. I start with roots. Rapidstart is an outstanding root promoter. It may look expensive, but I can tell you that it works. This plant had Rapidstart as soon as it was able
That was a 10 ounce plant, 1 of the 2 I mentioned earlier. Another outstanding root additive is House and Gardens Root Excellarator (spelling?). It's amazing and comes in 2 flavors. The gold can is for dirt. The silver is for hydro.

Hope this helps.
 
I believe my environment is pretty good in my tent right now, temperatures around 26c with humidity around 50-55%. I think it might be my watering method during seedling stage thats hindering root development. I
I've decided to not pull them and continue monitoring, even if it means small yield Im sure I will learn a couple lessons through flowering phase!

My biggest concern is wasted electricity on small yield but it is what it is....which is why i decided to drop another seed to add to the mix....o_O

Yeah I think you are making the right decision sticking with it, as hydroholic said, make the mistakes with these ones. Plus from above comments it seems drooping may be just more common that expected. But thinking back to it, mine were drooping a few hours before the lights went off, after the stretch it did stop, but mine weren’t autos, not sure if it makes a difference though. I think with this forum, as long as you keep on top of things and ask for advise when a problem occurs, everyone is so happy to help you out. I wish I saw this forum at the start of my last grow.
 
Mine are about 3-4 hrs before lights out but I keep the lights burning.

I try and run bag seed on a new set up to get it dialed in on the first grow. Let it grow and make the mistakes on this one.
Got my seeds from mjseedscanada. This is my 2nd attemp with bluecheese and acapulco.
Mine are about 3-4 hrs before lights out but I keep the lights burning.

I try and run bag seed on a new set up to get it dialed in on the first grow. Let it grow and make the mistakes on this one.

Wondering now if I should switch back to 20/4 again? I made the switch to 18/6 couple days back. I got my seeds from mjseedscanada and it's my second attempt at acapulco and bluecheese. I'm starting to really think it's my watering methods during seedling stage hindering root development therefore not absorbing first full watering.

I bet Flashmp3 that this plant wouldn't do well. It was a pain in the ass the entire grow, but woke up and did pretty well.

Sometimes it just comes down to economics like you were saying. Can you afford to put 4 months of light into a plant(s) that will only give an ounce... I've never grown an auto to be clear. I understand some auto strains arent very stable, but again I dont do autos. I had a really bad grow last season that affected this season, so I only have 1 plant for a 50 gallon RDWC and an 1100watt HPS (only using 650, but it's a lot for one plant. I would never plan it like that. The last time I dint have a full hydro I had 2 plants and did 27oz. But not every strain can do that, it just worked out

I wanted to share this chart. It shows that not every seed is created equal.
Some strains suck. I've grown a lot of seeds from DNA genetics. They kinda specialize in fruity flavors, they did Tangie for instance. But I had issues with a lot of their seeds. So, even breeders themselves can put out a problematic product.

If you had droopy plants it could be a million things. I start with roots. Rapidstart is an outstanding root promoter. It may look expensive, but I can tell you that it works. This plant had Rapidstart as soon as it was able
That was a 10 ounce plant, 1 of the 2 I mentioned earlier. Another outstanding root additive is House and Gardens Root Excellarator (spelling?). It's amazing and comes in 2 flavors. The gold can is for dirt. The silver is for hydro.

Hope this helps.

I'll look into those root nutes! Again I think my seedling watering method is where I'm going wrong. If I can get a couple oz per grow I'm pretty happy at this point. My last grow 3 plants all suffered leaves yellow drying and disintegrating to the touch! 4 months wasted. Had my confidence shot and ran over.
 
Yeah I think you are making the right decision sticking with it, as hydroholic said, make the mistakes with these ones. Plus from above comments it seems drooping may be just more common that expected. But thinking back to it, mine were drooping a few hours before the lights went off, after the stretch it did stop, but mine weren’t autos, not sure if it makes a difference though. I think with this forum, as long as you keep on top of things and ask for advise when a problem occurs, everyone is so happy to help you out. I wish I saw this forum at the start of my last grow.
I was posting the issues as they happened but I think it was too far gone at that point. Each time I watered they worsened.
Anyway, live and learn and GROW. I want to master the art!
 
Currently my watering looks like this from day 1 to 15, keep in mind this is approximate but I do listen to the plant rather than have set scheduled watering days.

Day 1 break soil - spray 5-10 times around stem
Day 2 - spray 5-10 times around stem with about 2" diameter
Day 3 - spray 5-10 times around stem with about 2" diameter
Day 4 - spray 10-15 times around stem with 2" diameter or bigger depending on growth
day 5 to day 10 - spray 20-25 times around a 4" diameter or more
day 10-15 - spray 50-60 times around the diameter of the most outta edge of where the leaves are

All waterings above are done after pots are dry


As you can see, at no point have I saturated the soil entirely till runoff - is this where Im faulting? I only do runoff until I feel the plants are big enough to take all the water, but Im thinking now because of the roots being underdeveloped from day 1 to day 15 that when I do a full watering with runoff it is not been absorbed by the plant.
My first watering with runoff was day 18 while everything else was just spray
 
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