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Advanced Nutrients pH perfect - Don't pay attention to pH?


New Member
Ive been using ph perfect for about the last year exclusively.

The ph usually is 6.2 - 6.6

I grow coco and DWC and I have not had really any issue.

I just dont understand it. DWC at 6.4 is way too high but I had no issues.

I did a side by side test and it doesnt seem that PH perfect has anything special to regulate the ph.

Advanced Coco Grow
1000ml Tap water
-Added 4ml A
-Added 4ml B
-Added 7ml Rhizo
6.7ph final ph value

Canna Coco
1000ml Tap water
-Added 4ml A
-Added 4ml B
-Added 7ml Rhizo
6.6ph final ph value

Are the elements just so chelated that it doesnt matter?

I should add I am using city water that comes out at 130ppm and high ph, in this case, 8.7
Not sure if ph stabilizers are used by the city. I will conduct my next tests on distilled and see if there are any differences.


New Member
I just tested with some distilled water

500ml Distilled water
7.3ph 0ppm
-Added 2ml A
-Added 2ml B
-Added 2ml Rhizotonic

At this point it was looking like just luck so I added another 2ml of Rhizo to see if it would stabilize it at the 5.8 - 6.2 range

-Added 2ml Rhizo

Nope. Nothing even with distilled.



New Member
Heres some of the pics I promised

Nice picture men :) , change from gh
To AN perpect ph , I grow in coco for the last 2 years and this is the must good thing that I would have done for my plans. Use the all serious a+b full strength every thing else half strength, my ph is 6.5 ppm 2.2 use with tap water with ec of 0.4 work like magic


New Member
I was told by AN i could use my tap water if i ph'ed it down before mixingwith the sensi ph perfect,witch is true but left out that i would end up killing my plants! 6 failed grow attempts and 1 year later i now realised that you HAVE to use that product with ro or di water. When using AN sensi with tap water of 8.3 it lowered it to 7.2ph (cant rember the numbers off the top of my head if you ph first and then mix,my thread should have it within its 22 pages) and tap is 168ppm with nutes added i was getting a ppm of 360. With RO water ph of 7.0 and 0.5ppm with AN sensi it dropped perfectly to 6.0 and a ppm of 240! Now im on 7th grow and i believe that if the AN sensi line is used with my tap water it inhibits the product from working correctly. Just my experience i have a journal going right now you might want to check out using AN hope this helps!


New Member
DO NOT ADJUST pH Perfect mix EVER!!!!

Big Mike was a friend of mine back in the day, and I grilled him extensively on this subject and he said quote; "if you adjust pH Perfect you mess up the nutrient profile and destabilize the mix".

Here is another point he made deliberately... he said even though pH Perfect CAN be used in any type of water using tap or well water has the same effect as trying to pH adjust it. He told me over and over ONLY USE RO WATER!!!!!

But this was his biggest advice, to get those huge bushes in the 20 gallon plastic garbage cans like in their videos, they use Sunshine mix #4 Advanced which has dolomite lime and trace amounts of calcium and Magnesium to counteract any shifts in pH and calcium issues. They only feed once a day and they ALWAYS drain to waste. This is very important because daily freshy fresh always works better than feeding leftovers for six days.

They start in rockwool starters, then to the 5" blocks, then right into the 20 gallon buckets, but that's only for a well balanced environment with lots of light and lots of CO2 (CO2 in direct proportion to the ppm levels 600ppm nutes/ 600ppm CO2) Someone with a less perfect system only needs 10 gallon buckets. He said that after transplanting in the bloom buckets, when you feed, only wet the substrata as far out as the branches reach, and when they reach the diameter of the sides of the bucket then start wetting until it comes out the bottom as fast as you pour by hand. Using irrigation tubes is a bad idea because of issues of nutrients sitting in warm black tubes.

In the cubes Monitor the nutrient amounts that come out of the cubes to get the perfect 300 ppm in /200 ppm out balance daily. Using between 1/4 & 1/3 of the nutrients at every stage before ramping up nutrient levels. In the big buckets you should be starting at 600 ppm and when the branches shade the rim feed till it comes out the bottom and see what your output is. As soon as you have 400 ppm coming out for 600 in then go to the 900. Etc.

Another point he made was that even though the bottle says one dose feeds all, this is not correct either. You can go by a less structured dosing schedule. Like 300 ppm then 600 ppm, then 900 ppm, then 1,200 ppm. But it is stupid to think you can feed 1,200 ppm to seedlings.

I've shared this with my friends who were doing med grows and they immediately started having more harvest than they had ever seen before.

pH Perfect works perfectly without all the additives they push on you too (It already has wetbetty and B52 and everything else you need) . All you need to start beyond base are the beneficialz to colonize the root zone in the sterile substrata, then continue the fresh daily dosing of the base nutrients. So many people mess up their system by trying to add everything in the AN catalogue and this is what made Big Mike so frustrated. He couldn't tell the people not to use the other stuff because it was his job to sell it but now look at his new venture, you can see he wanted only to push what is necessary.

Mix your whole weeks nutrients at the start of every week and keep it cool and free of contamination (with air filters on every air source), then aerator spray the substrat making sure nothing gets back into the reservoir and every day you will have the perfect mix for your roots so you are always on target. I've never seen a better system and I will NEVER tell someone to use a recycle system again! Yuck. I have seen this work well with drain to wast NFT systems but man that uses a lot of nutes.

As far as I'm concerned they should be sharing all of this info to everyone because this is how pH perfect was designed.

Happy hunting.


Well-Known Member
I must be using AN 3 part all wrong!

Water in bucket, Micro, Grow, Bloom, SM-90 and then PH down to 5.5-5.8, hasn't failed yet...



New Member
I used a different lower priced line in the early days and was happy with my results. I switched to AN, and recently went with the full AN grand master line and am in love with the results. I hate paying the prices but god I love the end result. Can someone else do this, or even better with a budget nutes? I am sure. But for me personally I love AN. I do check my PPM and PH, thats just something that I won't ever stop doing but I do run the PPM WAAYY higher than I ever would with other lines and have yet to see any burn. I may switch things up and try a different method (dirt in the early days, DWC now) of growing and a different nute line but today, I am happy with AN.


New Member
When I started growing a couple years ago I was only using fox farm nutes and getting decent results aside from some ph issues a couple times. My current grow I decided to try AN ph perfect base (sensi grow/bloom) along with big bud, b-52 and bud candy and I have some damn happy plants and I have not even checked my ph once and not a single problem yet, the plants are in early flower right now


Member of the Month: Mar 2016 - Plant of the Month: Nov 2015
When I started growing a couple years ago I was only using fox farm nutes and getting decent results aside from some ph issues a couple times. My current grow I decided to try AN ph perfect base (sensi grow/bloom) along with big bud, b-52 and bud candy and I have some damn happy plants and I have not even checked my ph once and not a single problem yet, the plants are in early flower right now
Looking good. For anyone who stumbles on this thread, I have daily pH and ppm documentation using AN without adjusting pH in The Roost, linked below. It begins around Feb 2017. I haven't adjusted pH in almost two years now, but thought it useful to have the numbers to match the results for those that need proof.

Mix it, leave it, change it in a week. Pretty easy. I'll save you all the reasons NOT to use AN. You can find those in the Roost too. ;)


New Member
Found this on another forum, someone emailed advanced nutrients about a feeding schedule and this was the response.


Thank you for your inquiry,

All of our products and formulas can be used in exactly the same way in all mediums. Mix the nutrient solution including any supplements that you are using, allow the solution to sit for at least ah hour or two, then adjust the pH to the level ideal for the medium that you are using. When growing in soil adjust the pH to 6.3, in hydro to pH 5.6 and when in coco coir, adjust to 5.8-6.0. We also suggest using approximately 200 ppm of sensi cal/mg grow/bloom to supplement coco coir with the necessary micro elements locked out by the medium.

We also suggest using the old nutrient calculator as a base to make up you nutrient solution, I have attached a link here: Nutrient Calculator | Hydroponics | Advanced Nutrients | Hydroponic Gardening

I am including a feeding guideline below.

Feeding Guideline

Don't start feeding nutrients to rooting clones or seedlings such as the 2 part Sensi A & B (Grow) until they develop 3 or 4 sets of new/true leaves.

Until they develop 3 or 4 sets of new (clones)/true (seedlings) leaves feed them only water. You can foliar spray them with Jumpstart, use application rate suggested on the bottle or 1/4 strength B-52 (1 mL/liter) until then. You can also add 1/4 strength applications of Piranha, Tarantula and Voodoo Juice, to the water that you will use in the root zone.

Clones seedlings need high levels of moisture in the medium
(80% -85% is good 100% is too much)

They also like a warmer environment in the root zone 70 F â€" 80 F.

Entering the Vegetative stage, Use the Rooted Clones / Seedlings schedule in the nutrient calculator for the first two weeks of feeding)

Week 1

At 3 or 4 sets of new leaves mix nutrient solution at 300 ppm

Week 2

Mix nutrient solution at 600 ppm

Switch to Vegetative Stage feeding schedule if you are going to vegetate the plants longer than two weeks, the calculator goes up to another 8 weeks (you don't need to veg the whole 8 weeks).

Week 3 is Week 1 on the vegetative chart

Mix nutrient solution at 600 - 900 ppm depending on size

Week 4

Mix nutrient solution at 900 -1200 ppm depending on size

Follow chart for additional weeks as required

When entering the Bloom Stage follow the medium feeding strength. (If growing indoors the bloom stage starts when the lights are switched to twelve hours of darkness and twelve hour of light).

Week 1- mix nutrient solution including supplements at 1000 ppm
Week 2 - mix nutrient solution including supplements at 1200 ppm
Week 3- mix nutrient solution including supplements at 1400 ppm
Week 4- mix nutrient solution including supplements at 1600 ppm
Week 5- mix nutrient solution including supplements at 1400 ppm
Week 6- mix nutrient solution including supplements at 1200 ppm
Week 7- Flush

The nutrient calculator is set for a 7 week strain; it can be customized for plants that require more than 7 weeks to complete their flower stage. Just click add a week.

The amounts suggested in the nutrient calculator are the total nutrient to feed the plant for a whole week, not the amount to give them per feeding.

If you want to give your plants nutrient solution more than once per week, divide the amount (total ppm) for the week by the number of feedings that you want to give them to calculate the ppm per feeding. A light cycle of plain ph adjusted water prior to commencing a new week's feeding schedule will help prevent lock out conditions.

Plants may increase their over all size up to 2/3, during the bloom stage, for this reason the feeding schedules in the calculator increases the strength of the nutrient solution every week, reaching the highest concentration on the fourth week of bloom. If plant needs longer than 6 weeks of feeding (7 week strain, the 7Th week is a flush week), repeat week 4 for each extra week.

Always reduce the amount that you feed your plants during the last two weeks of feeding.


If the very tip of the leaves gets yellow it is an early sign of overfeeding. Reduce the solution strength slightly (100 â€" 150 ppm), if not increase slightly.


If the margins or any other part of the leaves yellows off it is a possible sign of deficiencies. Check pH in medium and reservoir, if the pH is off from the ideal levels look out conditions may develop. At first symptom of a deficiency apply rule # 1 (When in doubt flush them out).
If growing in a medium that takes some time to dry up, allow the medium to dry and feeding them plain pH adjusted water when they are ready. If growing in a re circulating system, find a way to give them only pH adjusted water for the length of a light cycle, a second reservoir just for water may be a simple solution, then it is just a matter of moving the pump over, maintain the regular water pump cycle during the flush.

pH conditions in medium

In Soil/Soiless (Soil or Soiless mixtures that may also contain peat moss but not Coco Coir) adjust the pH to 6.3

In Hydro (It includes products such as Rockwool, Hydroton Rock, and Lava Rock) adjust to 5.6

In Coco Coir adjust the ph to 5.8 â€" 6.0. You may want to supplement with SensiCal when growing in coco with a base nutrient that in not specific to growing in coco

Root damage

Another possibility is damage in the root zone, check for the possibility of root rot, or insect larvae as potential causes for root deterioration, brown, mushy, smelly roots are a good indicator of root damage. Hydrogen peroxide is an efficient way to destroy root rot causing bacteria.

Mixing instructions

If using the base nutrient stand alone, mix nutrients according to instructions on the bottle.

If also using supplements follow feeding schedule in the nutrient calculator.

When using a re circulating system, you will be dealing with one of two situations, either the reservoir is large enough to feed the plants for a week without the need to be topped up during the week or it is a small reservoir and in order to feed the plants through the week it will require to be topped up.

In case of reservoir that does not need to be topped up.

Add to the reservoir the amount of water that the plants are going to be using for the week, include some extra water to allow for evaporation.

Mix the nutrient solution at 1/6th of the strength that is suggested in the calculator for that week.

Example: If the plants need 1200 ppm for the week, divide 1200 by 6 and mix the reservoir at 200 â€" 250 ppm.

Allow the solution to sit long enough to stabilize the pH. Adjust pH

Feed the plants.

Allow the plants to feed on the solution and the pH to rise for 1 1/2 â€" 2 days before re adjusting the pH.

In case of reservoir that needs to be topped up with water during the week.

Add to reservoir the amount of water that the plants will use in 3 â€" 3 ½ days.

Mix the nutrient solution at the strength that is suggested in the calculator for that week.

Allow the solution to sit long enough to stabilize the pH. Adjust pH

Feed the plants

Allow the plants to feed on the solution for 1 1/2 â€" 2 days, top up with water to the original level first before re adjusting the pH, after adding the water allow solution to sit for an hour and re adjust the pH.

If growing in soil adjust the pH 6.3, in coco 5.8 â€" 6.0, in hydro 5.6.

When using a re circulating system having the pH rise after you start feeding the plants is a good thing, It means that the plants are up taking nutrient, it is important that it rises the plants up take different nutrients at different pH levels, allow the pH to rise for 1 ½ - 2 days at that point adjust the pH down to 5.6 again

Nutrient Calculator | Hydroponics | Advanced Nutrients | Hydroponic Gardening


1 gallon = 4 liters (quarts)
1 tsp (teaspoon) = 5 mL
1/2 tsp (teaspoon) = 2.5 mL
1/4 tsp (teaspoon) = 1.25 mL
1 tbsp (tablespoon) = 3 tsp (teaspoon) = 15 mL
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