- Thread starter
- #41
For sure it will run better than the autopots in my opinion. simply because of the simpler set up and bigger pipe work.
420bears
New Member
Love it I'm subbed
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Fuzzy Duck
Well-Known Member
Mmm Rh & bud rot ah...
From what i understand / read the spores of botrytis also known as bud rot /grey mold start to take effect around mid flowering & only really showing effect or results in the last couple or so weeks of flowering.
Now prevention is the best option as the rot loves high RH & low temps aka low temps holds more moisture in the air so this may lead to point of intake source of air etc or where it is coming from & what conditions it is sourced from ! plus over all difference of temp between lights on or off.
Ideally 5c difference between the two is pretty good but can get away several C difference but not much greater than beyond 10c.
I keep a base line temp of 20c lights off as best as i can on average lights on 27c but this may change a little during summer months when warm days may spike stuff but not a great problem.
Watering is another issue but best done when lights come on so excess moisture can be burnt off during the lights on period... so timing of watering is essential with some hydroponic systems as you don't want a saturated medium when lights go off which may spike RH to unsuitable levels.
I just think of it as a little puzzle to solve 'n' work out perhaps a slight change may be needed to avoid the rot given a basic guide line on how it may manifest a tweak here or there to sort it out perhaps !
On a side note i do run a dehumidifier during lights off as that is when most of the time the RH spikes in less ya in very dry part of the world... it gets turn off when lights are on when most of time the RH is lower in that period but the dehumidifier has treated a larger enough volume of air in that period to deal with stuff, but based on a passive intake tent.
Just an individual set up really & our conditions may change stuff
From what i understand / read the spores of botrytis also known as bud rot /grey mold start to take effect around mid flowering & only really showing effect or results in the last couple or so weeks of flowering.
Now prevention is the best option as the rot loves high RH & low temps aka low temps holds more moisture in the air so this may lead to point of intake source of air etc or where it is coming from & what conditions it is sourced from ! plus over all difference of temp between lights on or off.
Ideally 5c difference between the two is pretty good but can get away several C difference but not much greater than beyond 10c.
I keep a base line temp of 20c lights off as best as i can on average lights on 27c but this may change a little during summer months when warm days may spike stuff but not a great problem.
Watering is another issue but best done when lights come on so excess moisture can be burnt off during the lights on period... so timing of watering is essential with some hydroponic systems as you don't want a saturated medium when lights go off which may spike RH to unsuitable levels.
I just think of it as a little puzzle to solve 'n' work out perhaps a slight change may be needed to avoid the rot given a basic guide line on how it may manifest a tweak here or there to sort it out perhaps !
On a side note i do run a dehumidifier during lights off as that is when most of the time the RH spikes in less ya in very dry part of the world... it gets turn off when lights are on when most of time the RH is lower in that period but the dehumidifier has treated a larger enough volume of air in that period to deal with stuff, but based on a passive intake tent.
Just an individual set up really & our conditions may change stuff
- Thread starter
- #44
Yeah thats all true mate. the other thing that people dont consider is bud density. it doesnt have to be huge buds although thats more prone too, but the really compact stuff is a nightmare. especially when doing final flushes. the water just can evaporate off and it starts to rot from the stem. this is the most common that i suffer and im yet to figure a way of avoiding it completely.
Some strains are more prone than others also. big dense buds are a nightmare, i prefer strains that dont produce long colas, more fist sized.
Trying to cut down on waters during the flush does help but then it doesnt clean the bud effectively.
Also removing all fan leaves about a week before harvest helps as air flow around the buds is improved. And make sure fans blow but under the plants and across the heads to be sure that perspired water is evaporated off.
Think of it like an overweight person who has folds of skin that the air cant reach. It becomes a breeding ground for bacteria and nasties. Its the same with the plants.
Some strains are more prone than others also. big dense buds are a nightmare, i prefer strains that dont produce long colas, more fist sized.
Trying to cut down on waters during the flush does help but then it doesnt clean the bud effectively.
Also removing all fan leaves about a week before harvest helps as air flow around the buds is improved. And make sure fans blow but under the plants and across the heads to be sure that perspired water is evaporated off.
Think of it like an overweight person who has folds of skin that the air cant reach. It becomes a breeding ground for bacteria and nasties. Its the same with the plants.
Ketama
New Member
Cultivator if I may I need your opinion on this.I have a royal critical auto in dwc it is just stopping stretch at week 6 pistills popping now the problem I'm seeing these yellowing dots on some of the old fan leaves and some middle ones I have been feeding it as follow:
An ph perfect micro and grow voodoo juice calmag and vit N an and rhizotonic all at half strength now a couple days ago I noticed the spots spreading so I waited for the tank to get low and added some bud ignitor and a dose of bloom and micro light one to suplement for flowers for now until tonight I will make a fresh res mix with bloom nutes and bud ignitor and rhizotonic a bit voodoo here is some pics of the leaves excuse the hps lighting
thanks as always much appreciated
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An ph perfect micro and grow voodoo juice calmag and vit N an and rhizotonic all at half strength now a couple days ago I noticed the spots spreading so I waited for the tank to get low and added some bud ignitor and a dose of bloom and micro light one to suplement for flowers for now until tonight I will make a fresh res mix with bloom nutes and bud ignitor and rhizotonic a bit voodoo here is some pics of the leaves excuse the hps lighting
thanks as always much appreciated
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- Thread starter
- #46
you're confusing me mate/
week 6 of flower?
you only add the micro and grow? Then add bloom and micro seperate?
You need to add calmag first @0.3ec-0.4ec.
then add micro grow and bloom at around 2ml per litre which will bump it up to 1.4-1.6ec. in that order, equal amounts.
Add bud ignitor only first 2 weeks of flip at 1-2ml litre
what is your starting water ec?
rhizo plays havoc with ph so be sure ph is 5.8
add full strength voodoo as it doesnt affect ec.
it looks like cal defieciency. so you either arent adding enough calmag or your ph is out.
week 6 of flower?
you only add the micro and grow? Then add bloom and micro seperate?
You need to add calmag first @0.3ec-0.4ec.
then add micro grow and bloom at around 2ml per litre which will bump it up to 1.4-1.6ec. in that order, equal amounts.
Add bud ignitor only first 2 weeks of flip at 1-2ml litre
what is your starting water ec?
rhizo plays havoc with ph so be sure ph is 5.8
add full strength voodoo as it doesnt affect ec.
it looks like cal defieciency. so you either arent adding enough calmag or your ph is out.
Ketama
New Member
It is in week 1 of bloom it's an auto, so I have just been giving it veg nutes but three days ago I noticed the spots so I added a bit ( res is 15 l i added the missing 2l with bloom nutes as the ec went down, i am using rain water at 20 ppms max but I usually add micro first then grow then enzymes then calmag and rhizotonic voodoo and sometime great white last other plants are looking great this auto is showing these spots.
sent from the cave from my ismoke
sent from the cave from my ismoke
Ketama
New Member
I will calibrate my ph do a res change tonight and give it just bloom nutes rhizotonic calmag (added first to water) cannazyme B supplement and voodoo juice I only give it great white in a top feeding once a week or ten days oh yeah and one drop of supperthrive per gallon
sent from the cave from my ismoke
sent from the cave from my ismoke
Ketama
New Member
Ph is usually spot on after adding nutes I make minor ph downs occasionally and use rhizotonic for ph up
sent from the cave from my ismoke
sent from the cave from my ismoke
I have read somewhere that superthrive should not be used during the flower stage as it stops the flower developing. I maybe wrong but please confirm.
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Sent from my SM-N910F using 420
- Thread starter
- #51
the ph perfect line is designed to be used together not as seperate feeds. you need to add equal amounts of each. first add calmag, then micro, grow and bloom in that order. Dont use superthrive when plants are flowering.
Ketama
New Member
Yes ph perfect during veg I use micro and grow but I thought bloom would be used in flower with micro but no grow once the plant gets on full bloom or ? Am I wrong by doing that ?
sent from the cave from my ismoke
sent from the cave from my ismoke
Ketama
New Member
I can understand using all 3 now that the plant is just starting to flower but should I maintain that during flower ?
sent from the cave from my ismoke
sent from the cave from my ismoke
- Thread starter
- #54
use micro grow bloom in equal amounts from beginning to end, in that order.
Ketama
New Member
Ok wow ok thanks a lot mate what would my grow be without your priceless info and help
sent from the cave from my ismoke
sent from the cave from my ismoke
Fuzzy Duck
Well-Known Member
A x work colleague used a product called Bud Rot Stop claimed to be 100% natural organic stuff.
Might be worth a look at to save some of ya finest bud, but that is if ya not already come across it at some point of time ?
Well i need some feed back or criticism Cult on a new tent & kit set up you might of come across some of this kit before or have other suggestions.
Tent 120 cm by 120 cm by 200 cm. (Max size i can use)
Gekko 6 inch acoustic fan 1000 m2 per hour, ye over gunned fan size for tent but planning on fan speed controller set at 50% perhaps with temp control ?.
Rhino pro filter 6 inch the bigger model which deals with 900 m2 per hour of air, i'm hoping the gekko will never run at full speed to test the filter max air flow... not sure what will happen tho if it did ?
Dominator xxxl air cooled hood nice sized hood with good design should provide a suitable light foot print for tent mentioned but may be a little tight once ducting is added, i should get away with that.
So set up is a basic passive intake via tent vents with carbon filter > hood > extraction fan with some ducting in between for extraction, now i'm thinking the gekko which is over gunned should do the job with fan speed control & temp, but real control is only limited to the coolness of air used to cool the hood which would be the air in the tent & present temp... ye pondering over this with what is mentioned above !
Sounds pretty sane, so ya wondering on ol fuzzys light choice that is the next big question !
To be or not to be - 600 w 400 v (about 10% more par/umol than 600 w 240 v.
So 600w 400v bulbs & ballast are new to the market, i don't see many grows with this kit but referred to more main stream hortic practice, but it should scratch out a bit more yield in theory over the standard 600 w 240 v bulbs etc so ye to me this is the fine line of the shade of grey...
After crunching numbers etc i should be able to pull off reasonable same conditions with the new set up to my present basic in theory...
So what do ya think ah ?
Might be worth a look at to save some of ya finest bud, but that is if ya not already come across it at some point of time ?
Well i need some feed back or criticism Cult on a new tent & kit set up you might of come across some of this kit before or have other suggestions.
Tent 120 cm by 120 cm by 200 cm. (Max size i can use)
Gekko 6 inch acoustic fan 1000 m2 per hour, ye over gunned fan size for tent but planning on fan speed controller set at 50% perhaps with temp control ?.
Rhino pro filter 6 inch the bigger model which deals with 900 m2 per hour of air, i'm hoping the gekko will never run at full speed to test the filter max air flow... not sure what will happen tho if it did ?
Dominator xxxl air cooled hood nice sized hood with good design should provide a suitable light foot print for tent mentioned but may be a little tight once ducting is added, i should get away with that.
So set up is a basic passive intake via tent vents with carbon filter > hood > extraction fan with some ducting in between for extraction, now i'm thinking the gekko which is over gunned should do the job with fan speed control & temp, but real control is only limited to the coolness of air used to cool the hood which would be the air in the tent & present temp... ye pondering over this with what is mentioned above !
Sounds pretty sane, so ya wondering on ol fuzzys light choice that is the next big question !
To be or not to be - 600 w 400 v (about 10% more par/umol than 600 w 240 v.
So 600w 400v bulbs & ballast are new to the market, i don't see many grows with this kit but referred to more main stream hortic practice, but it should scratch out a bit more yield in theory over the standard 600 w 240 v bulbs etc so ye to me this is the fine line of the shade of grey...
After crunching numbers etc i should be able to pull off reasonable same conditions with the new set up to my present basic in theory...
So what do ya think ah ?
- Thread starter
- #57
yeah the set up be fine but will be tight. you might want to put the filter outside of the tent and blow through to save some space. that fan will manage that no prob. attach fan to filter and just run some duct to the tent and take the glass off the shade. glass will make it warmer believe it or not. then put some lagging on top of the shade and that will stop it conducting heat to the tent.
As for the 400v set ups i havent personally used them but ive seen them. They run hotter for sure but i think you get away with it if its not to hot in your house. as for the extra yield im sure theres some but how much more im not sure. if you pull 500 or 600grams its good regardless of which you use. you only really have 1x1 meter to use as that will be the spread of the light max and you can only get so much weed in a 1x1 area no matter what the light source is. If you are wanting higher yield id go with a 1000w but it be tight with only 2m height.
As for the 400v set ups i havent personally used them but ive seen them. They run hotter for sure but i think you get away with it if its not to hot in your house. as for the extra yield im sure theres some but how much more im not sure. if you pull 500 or 600grams its good regardless of which you use. you only really have 1x1 meter to use as that will be the spread of the light max and you can only get so much weed in a 1x1 area no matter what the light source is. If you are wanting higher yield id go with a 1000w but it be tight with only 2m height.
Ketama
New Member
You would make a great grow consultant cult,
Kriaze
Well-Known Member
You would make a great grow consultant cult,
I agree, you're always welcome to come fix up my garden while you're here lol
Fuzzy Duck
Well-Known Member
Mmm ye some food for thought ah ya got me thinking on this one might be a late night pondering over this !
But ye 500 g is an aimed target in a 120 cm by 120 cm by 200 cm tent, 9 plants or 4 trained well with longer veg should provide results.
Loved the lagging idea tho & that needs to be played with...
But ye 500 g is an aimed target in a 120 cm by 120 cm by 200 cm tent, 9 plants or 4 trained well with longer veg should provide results.
Loved the lagging idea tho & that needs to be played with...