Any Good Tips on Drying/Curing?

Jupiter79

New Member
Hi Fellas!
So I've had two grows and I have some concerns about the drying and curing process.

To begin with the drying process, here's what I know and how I did it (based on recommendations from friends or reading about it online somewhere):

*Cut and trimmed the buds into pretty small branches (like 1/2-3/4 ft tall max. for faster drying)

*Hanged the branches and let them dry in a dark cool Place for 4 days, with fans blowing around them for air circulation.

The results differed between the two times i did it. The first time I dried the buds inside the growing tent hanging from the seiling and only the vent.fan was on the whole time.
The second time i driend them in a bigger room (like 2 sq.ft) and this time it also took then 4 Days. I know about the recommended 4-7 day draying time, it's just a coincidence that both times took 4 days.

The funny thing is that eventhough the second batch had so much more compact and denser buds and obviously weighed a lot more, it took the same amount of time to dry, and it felt like they've dried even more than the first time. You could just crumble them with your fingers no grinder needed at all. My suspicion is that the first time when I dried inside the tent the space was more confined and the second time was more open (like I said it was a room) and I felt like I should of had just one osc. fan istead of two placed on the floor beneath the hanging buds.

So far I feel like I did an OK job with the drying, but if someone has ANY tip about it feel free to share. But my real concerns are with the curing process. I cured the crop according to info from friends and research online:

*When the buds felt dry enough, I put them in glass jars with sealed lids.

*For like the first week or so open the jars and keep em opened a while (20-30 min.) severeal times for say a total of 1-2 hrs per day until you feel that there's no risk for mould development in the buds anymore. Then keep the lids closed and let them cure for a minimum of 4 weeks.

*And you should keep the jars in the refridgerator as soon as possible. Because I was told the crystals develop better in cold. Is this really true?

This was my curing process. And if anyone has additional info on curing, please help

My biggest concerns on curing is theese questions:

*When dried, the buds will loose 70-80% of their initial weight. How long should you wait before putting them in jars? I mean should you dry em all the way through and then cure or should you maybe let them have at least some moist left in them, otherwise there're gonna be too dry for good taste and smell development?

*Is it important NOT to open the jars once you finally closed them during the curing process? (My long sticky fingers could'nt resist picking out one bud every now and then). One other thing with this second batch is that the buds only developed taste and smell for maybe 2 weeks, then nothing more happened They didn't smell or taste any better after 4 weeks or 6 weeks, it was just 2 weeks than nothing more.
And also I didn't like that the smell had no lingering. If I opened a jar it only smelled for like 10 seconds then the smell is comletely gone and also the buds doesn't smell at all or very little when I pick them up and smell them individually, they still kinda smell like hay or burned grass. But they do have some taste and aroma when smoked but I'm not satisfied. The first batch I Think had some better taste and smell, but it was the same when you open the jars, the smell completely dissapears after opening the jar. Could this be because I open the jars too much during curing? Or is it just poor growing? Or bad nutrients? (Greenhouse Seeds Powder Feeding, btw) or whatever?

I feel this is getting too long and too descriptive, But you get the hang of it, of how I did it and what info I had and what possible mistakes I've made (that I could think of). Just asking for some constructive criticism and additional tips.

Just one more note that could have significance: Even during flowering, both my grows didn't smell too much either. They smelled more from the beginning of flowering but later on during flowering I felt they smelled less and less and this time I did Critical Plus which is supposed to be a real smeller. Is something wrong or do I just have a really good carbon filter?

Thanks/Jupiter79
 
I'll chime in and try to help, but I have very limited background.

Mine didn't smell much until the last of flowering and even then I didn't think it was much... And I'm not running ANY filters at all. I don't even exhaust the air, just an open door and fans/ a/c.

It's going to be hard to answer about the drying/curing without knowing the RH of your room. I got a quarter sized cigar RH meter for < $20 and it fits INSIDE the jars. I was running about 60~65% in the jars after just a few days. You can buy just one and check a different jar every day.

62% is the target. I went into jars after only about 4 or 5 days because I thought they were drying too fast.

My understanding is that you want a slow dry/cure process, but I'm no expert.

I've given out 3 sets of samples to 2 different people for testing and so far the response is very positive for strength/flavor/smoothness. After about 1 week of curing, I'm now down to open the jars every other day or even 2 times a week, for 1 more week.

Someone here pointed out a trick to test your RH meter to see if it's right. One of mine was WAY off and the other was right on and I had to adjust the 3rd.

King of the House Home Inspection INC Home Hygrometer Page

I did the 75% test using table salt and water (water should not pool at the top, use paper towel to remove excess) Put in ziploc bag for 4 hours, the RH meter should read 75%

One of mine has an adjustment on the back, you turn the needle to 75% and retest (every time you open the ziploc, you change the RH)


I can't speak about the 2 weeks vs 4 weeks, don't have a clue.

Hope this helps.

You can check out my grow journal in my link, the last few pages show my drying harvest/curing. I don't have any pics of the Cigar RH meter, but it's about the size of a quarter and most smoke/cigar shops should have them.
 
First thing, 2 sq ft is barely enough surface for you to stand upright in, this could at best be called a cabinet.

About drying:
Ideally you need to blow fresh air into your drying room so the moisture that escapes the buds doesn't linger in the air and gets blown out of the room.
Fans shouldn't be blowing air directly into the buds, it's got to be a very indirect air flow.
The drying time is going to vary depending on room conditions such as temperature and RH, the way to check is, you take a branch and snap it with your hands, if it breaks apart then it's too dry, if it bends it's still too moist and should dry a little more. Ideally the branch has to snap but remain in one piece.
This is a double edge sword, dry too fast and you risk losing quality, too slow and you risk mold. Check them a few times a day until you get then hang of it or you find out what works for you best.
You should never be able to grind the buds with your bare hands, not even after curing, they are way too dry at this point and you should rehydrate them (a piece od orange peel in the jar should do the trick (up to a certain point), be careful, though, by reintroducing humidity you (again) risk mold.

At this point you want to cut the buds from the stems and put them in jars for curing. You can also weight them at this point because they don't really lose weight during curing.

About curing:
Check every few hours after jaring and see if drops form on the inside of the jar; if they do then it's still too moist and you should keep the jar open for a couple of hours, reseal and check again for a few hours. If nothing forms then you're good.
For the first week just open the jars twice a day for about 10 minutes, that's enough. After about a week open every other day also for 10 minutes for about 5 days. After that they are cured enough for smoking. For whatever time after that just keep them in the jars in a dark cool place (NOT IN THE FRIDGE, the crystals stop developing the minute you cut down the plant, remember that when the plant is dry it is dead, no more development takes place).
There's no problem if you pick your jars with your sticky fingers. What I do is just pick one jar to pick from and leave the others alone.

About the smell:
Some strains are smellier than others. The nutrients you use and how you use them might also be a factor. Also, remember that you get used to the smell, so if you open a jar and stop smelling it after a few minutes this just means that you got used to it, but if someone were to walk in they'd definitely smell that.
RH also plays a roll, at a higher RH your sense of smell improves, e.g. when it rains you seem to smell more, or when a fart is really bad when you're in the shower.

Good luck!
 
First, thanks for the good advices they're gonna be helpful.

About the second time i dried my harvest, they were hanging in a room 2-3 ft. above 2 osc. fans. The air wasn't blowing directly at them. I even turned off one of the fans after 2 days and set the remaining one on the lowest speed and even turned that of the last day, and the room was also poorly ventilated and yet they dried fast as hell. I wasn't aiming for them to dry that much, after weighing there was an 80% weight loss but I was really going for say 70% weight loss but it just went so darn fast, but they work well when smoked and the taste is not all bad, just want to be able to get more out of it. But like you said I just have to get the hang of it and I already feel I got some good tips. Again thanks Rodrigo

As for Karl Jay's answer I didn't keep track of the humidity at all during drying. I just growed in a growing tent with 45 % humidity during flowering and 70-75 % during veg. But as I dried them in another place outside the tent I didn't bring any RH-meter overthere. But still, I'm gonna keep that in mind m8. And nice one with the RH-meter test, gonna try that to see if my meter really works.

Have a nice one!
 
I noticed if you have a low rH in your drying room, your buds are going to dry a lot quicker. You want to shoot for that high rH and a nice cooool 70 degree drying room. Like what KJ said you want to shoot for a slow dry and a slow cure for the best meds possible. Everything else I'm reading is pretty much what I do, kudos :thumb:

:peace: CA215
 
4 Days is good for drying. I dry inside of a 2x4 grow tent with a 4" inline fan pulling air passively through the tent. I would stay away form pointing your fan directly on the buds. Just make sure you dont wait until you let the stems snap just before that is perfect imo.
Look into the little hunidipak packets. you place them in your jar and it keeps the humidity stable.
cheers
 
I also dried inside a growing tent the first time and it took 4 days, but it felt like it could've taken one or maybe even two days more. Just like yours I had a vent.fan going. But the second time I had to dry em outside the tent cause I had 3 different strains and one of them wasn't ready when the other two were done (NYCD was just half-way through when the others were ready for harvest).

The tent is more confined and more humid so I will look for a more humid place if I can't use the tent.

Is this why alot of people dry their buds in cardboard boxes? I've seen alot of people do it on youtube and documentaries etc. and it seems to be a pretty common way, where one side of the box is cut open like a window or something and strings are hanging on top of the box, where you place your buds and a fan somewhere nearby. It seems you get that confined space with higher humidity
 
I dry using cardboard boxes with a 'window' on the side. It is in fact a pretty common practice when you handle a low volume. It works great for me.
It's almost winter now here so it's very cold and humid so I don't know how this drying process in going to unfold, the last time was still very sunny and warm and it took 4-5 days. I'll let you know how it goes in comparison to the last one. Harvest is due in about 10 days.
 
You can check out my grow journal in my link, the last few pages show my drying harvest/curing. I don't have any pics of the Cigar RH meter, but it's about the size of a quarter and most smoke/cigar shops should have them.[/QUOTE]

Here some thoughts I would like to share with you:

Hello Karl.Jay. checked your journal out and I have to say your plants look a bit stringy and stretchy. I think you're running to many CFL's. From what I read you're running nearly 4000 Watts and yet your plants look so unhealthy. I Think it'd be better to only use CFLs for seedlings and up to about 3 weeks into growth, then they're gonna need stronger and more specialized lighting like an HPS or LED. You can get even better results with just 2 400w HPS lights instead of 30 CFLs, you're running all that wattage in vain. I have a 370 w LED light and at 1 foot distance I get 100000 lumens out of it and at maybe 1,2-1,3 feet it's like 80000 lumens. You're running too much wattage for nothing. An HPs or LED is also going to give you bigger and thicker top colas. CFL's doesn't do the job, maybe ok in veg but in flowering it's useless, I also have 3 125w CFL's hanging vertically down among the branches so the lower canopy is also kept lit, but they don't really do anything all they really do is make the lower branches and leaves and buds "not rot". Maybe they do contribute a little, but I'm just saying I'd be fine without them too. Even if an HPs and a CFL has the same wattage, still the HPS is going to be SO MUCH MORE efficient because that light is especially developed for growing, CFL light is just "generic" light, in my opinion only suitable for seedlings and smaller plants. When you repot into your 3 gallon pots it's time for an HPS otherwise you'll never gonna get those thicker branches to support those big colas, that's why you only have smaller nugs spread out throughout the whole plant.

I also suggest you learn the technique of "lollipoping" (also a factor to why you have such small colas)

Also: it's better to trim your buds all the way at first before drying. It's harder to trim buds when they've dried, it's easier to break stems and buds and it's just more clumpsy, and because all the trichomes are dry some of them are gonna fall off when you trim. Trichs fall off when wet too. but then they will stick to your hand and you could just scrape it off and smoke it right away. Dry trichomes will just fall on the floor and on the space around you.

Happy Growing!/Jupiter
 
Oh wait, after reading your journal more (such a long one dude with 30+ pages) I now see that you did use HPS, but still your plants doesn't look too good. I wish I had a camera so I could show you mine they have a week left and they look fantastic other than a little yellow leaves and other minor issues (not so minor but hey it takes time to be perfect). The buds are thick and heavy, I have to tie some of the branches up with strings so they won't brake, eventhough the stems are thick too. My problem was more with smell and taste that's why I started the thread. I'm not saying it's perfect, I've seen pics in other threads from master growers and in no way am I comparing myself to them.


My grow room is not as big as yours just 1 sq. meter so I use only one light (plus 3 CFL's), but If you have, if I got it right, 4 HPS lights then your plants should look better. Earlier you said you didn't use an exhaust fan with filter, but you have too. Your grow is pretty big scale and your plants need more air, only oscillating fans and opening the door is not gonna do it. You better set up a grow room with proper insulation or a grow tent. It's much easier to control temperature and humidity in a closed confinement and with an exhaust fan changing all the air constantly the plants get more fresh air. First I thought it was the lights but since you have HPS it could be that your plants can't breath.

Do you use nutrients?
 
I know KJ opted over mid grow from CFL to HPS with some cool tubes. Could be it, the plants were used to the CFL lighting and with the change to HPS they could not have soaked up all the energy that was being provided, being they were not used to that much output from the savage high pressure sodiums at all. Plus I think it's a new room for him and he is getting everything dialed in so he can pull cuttlings from mothers and run them in there. Everything takes time getting dialed in :Namaste: & everything I'm reading throughout this thread sounds a o k to me :)

:peace: CA215
 
I know KJ opted over mid grow from CFL to HPS with some cool tubes. Could be it, the plants were used to the CFL lighting and with the change to HPS they could not have soaked up all the energy that was being provided, being they were not used to that much output from the savage high pressure sodiums at all. Plus I think it's a new room for him and he is getting everything dialed in so he can pull cuttlings from mothers and run them in there. Everything takes time getting dialed in :Namaste: & everything I'm reading throughout this thread sounds a o k to me :)

:peace: CA215

I'm ok with that, they look a bit heat stressed well into flowering. But still it seemed both CFL's and HPS were used simultanously sometimes and sometimes only HPS and sometimes only a bunch of CFL's I couldn't quite get the hang of it. I'd say loose the CFL's after 3 weeks of growth then repot and go with HPS or LED as the lead light source, only use CFL as back-up, but here it seemed to be the other way around.

After reading more about it, it seems to me that there is an RH problem. Because of overuse of osc. fans some plants experienced wind-burn I read. That's what you get without vent. fan, you have to use so many osc. fans that they only dry out the air and lowers the RH. I saw pictures of early flowering and the RH is 30 % that's too low at that stage it should be 45-50 % in early flowering maybe even 55-60 % if it's really early into flowering (say the first week or so) and later on you could lower it. Only the last 2 weeks should the RH be kept at 30-35 %. In the veg. state the RH should be around 75% and since the RH seems so low maybe I can asume it was like that also in the veg. state?

With an exhaust fan you get a natural air-flow circulation in the grow room. Osc. fans only blow the air around, pretty much in the same place even if there are several ones. You should use osc. fans too even several ones they're very imporant too for the circulation, but the vent. fan has to be the primary one, the osc. fans are considered only as back-up but very important back-ups you cannot do without them and only use a vent.fan that only creates the same problem. And I feel you rely too much on the A/C, it's good very good but only for temperature control. It does nothing for the circulation of air it only cools or heats air up. If you have windburn and turn your fan off the plants can't breath at all no matter what A/C your using.

Also I might say the clones growed in coffee cups looked a bit potbound to me. My suggestion is you repot the clones a bit earlier into somewhat bigger pots before putting them into the big pots, looks like 3 gallons or something. The leap between that coffe cup and the 3 gallon pot is a bit high imo. Or if you want that size when you repot into the big final ones then use a little bigger pot than that coffee cup, so you dont have to repot twice. Cause those clones looks a bit too stretched out and tall for that cup size.

But it's a nice setup, you just need a proper growing room, your RH is going to be better. In for example a tent you can spray the walls with water, it's really good in the veg. state for that high humidity and an exhaust fan will work better in a confined space than in an open room.


Have a good one/Jupiter
 
I think my grow journal is a bit confusing, many things were going on and a lot of learning.

I started off with all T8/CFL. About 1 week into flower, I started getting HPS lights. The 1st HPS failed because of a shorted hood. I now have 4 600W HPS lights in the flower room and the T8/CLFs are used in veg and clone. I have 3 separate rooms: 2 9X11 (1 flower, 1 veg), the small room is for cloning and drying/curing.

I currently have 4 active grows/cures... The 1st grow is dried and curing. 2nd grow is all in flowering, 3rd grow is in veg, 4th grow is in cloning waiting on roots.

My house has been in a state of remodel for a while. I don't have central A/C or even a HVAC vent system yet. I didn't even have ceilings until a few months ago.

I have the main HVAC blower in place now, just need to check the drip tray and hook up the vents.

The flower room clearly has the most light/heat and will get extra vents. The small window A/C is a temp fix, and I should be removing that soon. I'm pumping in CO2 into the veg room, was pumping it into the flower room, but have to rework the vents because the main blower is in place now and I have to re-route the vents. Based on what others are using for CO2, mine is huge at 55K BTUs where as others are in the 1.5K range (IIRC).

The vents will end up with a nice cross flow and will be much better than what I have now, but it takes time to set everything up.

Lolipopping, I didn't do this for the 1st grow, after harvesting the 1st grow, I can see that all those baby branches are very close to worthless. I now cut off all the lesser baby branches.

Nutes: I've been using the GH Flora and molasses since the start, they seem to be ok, can't really compare, don't have anything to compare to as GH Flora is the only one I've tried.

RH: I just tested my RH meters, the digital one is way off. I used the salt water bag test and it was off by a large amount. The two dial type meters are correct and the RH is about 10~20 (20 @ 75RH) higher than what is shown on the digital meter.

I'm not unhappy with the results of the 1st grow, the net is about 3lbs from 10 plants. That in the 1/4 lb each range and I know several of the main colas weren't as large as the others.

I ran into a few problems at the end, I expected a harvest date that was about 1 month off. I started cutting nutes way too soon. Won't happen again. Started the extra nutes (molasses, kool bloom) too late, then cut off the regular nutes too soon. Not good.

I now have a better time frame for when to cut nutes, and the extra nutes will come in earlier.

Some of these fixes won't be in place for all for the current flowering plants, but will be fully in place for grow 3. I already see grow 2 flowering better than grow 1 did.

As far as RH control goes, I plan on a central RH controller that is built into the main blower system. I've been getting mixed info on ideal RH, several have said they do great with < 25%, others say more like 50% is ideal. I really don't know what is the ideal RH. Most seem to like the 50% range, but others say that invites PM and other pests/problems.
 
I'm not unhappy with the results of the 1st grow, the net is about 3lbs from 10 plants. That in the 1/4 lb each range and I know several of the main colas weren't as large as the others.


As far as RH control goes, I plan on a central RH controller that is built into the main blower system. I've been getting mixed info on ideal RH, several have said they do great with < 25%, others say more like 50% is ideal. I really don't know what is the ideal RH. Most seem to like the 50% range, but others say that invites PM and other pests/problems.

RH should be 45-50% in the flowering cycle and you could lower it more at the end. The last 2-3 weeks could be going at 30-35%, that makes them produce more crystals, the dew in the crystals protects the plant from drought. But only in the end stage when the buds are fully developed. Also bare in mind that in veg. state it should be 75-80%.
But if you grow in an open space like in a regular room, and you also have wooden walls and/or floors or something from what I saw in your pictures. Wood easily absorbs humidity and gets overhumid and it's a natural habitat for pests and mites and other microscopic creatures. That's why you get PM and pest problem with that humidity, because everywhere in your house there are living things, they live in the walls, floors, seiling etc and if your entire room gets humid pests thrive. But however in a grow room with insulation and reflective walls it's easier not to get those problems even with higher humidity levels. Because white reflective material and also mylar doesn't make pests thrive as much. for example in a wooden wall pests can live and eat and lay eggs and everything because Wood is natural even concrete is somewhat natural compared to mylar and the white reflective surfaces used in growing And if kept clean all the time you won't get that problem they won't thrive as much.
What I'm saying is if you grow in an open room, humidity is going to spread throughout the room to the floor, walls, seiling and such, those are things that absorb moist and mylar or white reflecitive doesn't cause they're insulators. And in a closed environment all that humidity is kept inside that space keeping only the air inside it humid and the walls won't absorb any moist making it easier to keep those pest outside cause it's just cleaner.

About the estimated harvest time. It's the same for me, all my grows (I said I did 2, but I have more prior experience, it's just the second time I do it completely alone) have gone overdue say 2-4 weeks longer than the suggested flowering time. I feel it's a common problem and I believe it's just circumstances such as stress and non optimal conditions like to hot or to cold, to dry or too wet, over and underwatering etc etc, all those thing slows growth down and hence your plants takes longer to mature.

Could I ask if your net weight (3 lbs from 10 plants) is dry weight or wet weight?
 
It's too bad that my wood floors ended up where they are. It's solid oak hardwood flooring, and literally takes HOURS to move, and everywhere I move it... it's in the way! I'll be happy when the floors are done :D

The 3lb harvest is dry, I didn't take any wet weights. The tallest plants were 5' and about 1/2 were about 4' (including the grow bag). I ended up with 4 1 gallon jars, 17 1/2 gallon jars and 4 quart jars. Gave out samples to a few people that really know their stuff and every one of them was very positive. I'm actually a bit surprised that it came out as quality as they said. One worked at a co-op and compared it well against what they called top shelf product.

Right now, I don't have accurate readings on the RH. The only accurate gauges I have are being used in the jars and clone closet. I'll be getting another one that's adjustable, those digital ones are adjustable and mine is way off.
 
3 lb is a very good harvest from 10 plants and ultimately quality is what counts. Eventhough you encountered so many problems it all worked out well anyway. Wish I had space like yours so i could have a larger grow with clones and separate rooms for veg and flowering, but I just don't have the space for it right now.
 
Thanks, I think the one thing worked well for me is that I tended to the grow every day and anything that came up, I addressed quickly. I got opinions from all over and stayed on top of things pretty well. Several mistakes, but those are expected for a 1st timer.

I've been having space issues from the start. When we first decided to do this, I had a 4x6 room in a shed, now I've got 3 rooms working and the people that started this with me are rarely seen when it comes to doing work. It's been a real learning experience.

I didn't have a clue what to expect for a final yield, I couldn't even find any pics where people would say "this is what a 1/4 lb plant looks like" ... Now I know what a 1/4~1/3 lb plant looks like and I can guess what kinda yield to expect.

The 2nd grow might be somewhere near 8lbs. The 2nd grow is 26 plants and I'm not seeing any problems yet. It'll be interesting to see the results of the lolipopping.
 
I was also going to add that I didn't do the lolipopping on the 1st grow and ended up with a bunch of growth down low. I harvested the top of most plants, then waited to harvest the lower parts. The lower harvest filled the 6 tier rack and 2 rows of the clone closet. I added 4 gallons more of cured product which is about 1/3 of the total harvest.

I think I got 3 lbs with smaller colas because of all that was on the lower branches.

This time, I've already cut down the lower and inner small parts, I'll be able to tell if that nets larger colas and more yield. At least it should make the harvest easier. This harvest is over 2.5X the number of plants, so it'll be some work.
 
another great Rod post!!
First thing, 2 sq ft is barely enough surface for you to stand upright in, this could at best be called a cabinet.

About drying:
Ideally you need to blow fresh air into your drying room so the moisture that escapes the buds doesn't linger in the air and gets blown out of the room.
Fans shouldn't be blowing air directly into the buds, it's got to be a very indirect air flow.
The drying time is going to vary depending on room conditions such as temperature and RH, the way to check is, you take a branch and snap it with your hands, if it breaks apart then it's too dry, if it bends it's still too moist and should dry a little more. Ideally the branch has to snap but remain in one piece.
This is a double edge sword, dry too fast and you risk losing quality, too slow and you risk mold. Check them a few times a day until you get then hang of it or you find out what works for you best.
You should never be able to grind the buds with your bare hands, not even after curing, they are way too dry at this point and you should rehydrate them (a piece od orange peel in the jar should do the trick (up to a certain point), be careful, though, by reintroducing humidity you (again) risk mold.

At this point you want to cut the buds from the stems and put them in jars for curing. You can also weight them at this point because they don't really lose weight during curing.

About curing:
Check every few hours after jaring and see if drops form on the inside of the jar; if they do then it's still too moist and you should keep the jar open for a couple of hours, reseal and check again for a few hours. If nothing forms then you're good.
For the first week just open the jars twice a day for about 10 minutes, that's enough. After about a week open every other day also for 10 minutes for about 5 days. After that they are cured enough for smoking. For whatever time after that just keep them in the jars in a dark cool place (NOT IN THE FRIDGE, the crystals stop developing the minute you cut down the plant, remember that when the plant is dry it is dead, no more development takes place).
There's no problem if you pick your jars with your sticky fingers. What I do is just pick one jar to pick from and leave the others alone.

About the smell:
Some strains are smellier than others. The nutrients you use and how you use them might also be a factor. Also, remember that you get used to the smell, so if you open a jar and stop smelling it after a few minutes this just means that you got used to it, but if someone were to walk in they'd definitely smell that.
RH also plays a roll, at a higher RH your sense of smell improves, e.g. when it rains you seem to smell more, or when a fart is really bad when you're in the shower.

Good luck!
 
I noticed if you have a low rH in your drying room, your buds are going to dry a lot quicker. You want to shoot for that high rH and a nice cooool 70 degree drying room. Like what KJ said you want to shoot for a slow dry and a slow cure for the best meds possible. Everything else I'm reading is pretty much what I do, kudos :thumb:

:peace: CA215
+100.
 
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