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Arduinos in the grow room: My project

odam2k

Well-Known Member
I’ve always gone off the concept heat rises, the other way may be more efficient, I’m honestly not sure, I thought the condenser worked passively and that the fan was only pushing the air thru the vents into the room itself
The main fan pulls air in the front of the unit through the air filter... That air is cooled by the unit, and spit back out the front at the top, this is your cold air...

The condenser is cooled by air coming in the side ports, and out the back of the unit through the radiator.... I'm not sure if there is a fan for this, but I believe so... (Can't check, they are packed away for the winter)
 

odam2k

Well-Known Member
Wondering if I should break out the individual DIY projects into new threads here in the DIY Forum?
For example, the dual moisture sensor, the new moisture sensor, the voltage divides, etc...

Would maybe catch peoples eye that don't want to, or have the time, to read all the posts in this thread...
 

odam2k

Well-Known Member
I also use a duct booster to circulate the air out the window I don’t rely on the unit cooling itself
For the back grill right? Does it move enough air? I guess it must, or you wouldn't be using it...
This is one of those $40-$60 ones rather than a turbine type like you'd use to vent a tent?

I suppose, once I get started on this project, I could end up just having the whole thing sit inside, not at the window, putting a cap on the back and ducting the hot air out the window. We'll see...
 

odam2k

Well-Known Member
So after doing some research, and pondering over the pros vs cons, I'm going to buy grow tents rather than diy them.

Rather than a 4x4 veg and 6x4 flower tent, I'll go with 3 4x4 tents (eventually, can only afford one per month if lucky)

1 for Veg with my existing "Outdoor wallmount" LED light, and two for flower, each with a 400w HID. This way I can run lights on in one, lights out in the other, then flip every 12 hours. This means less draw on the power.

Half of our apartment is on one circuit, the two bedrooms, the bathroom, and hall. With 2 400w lights, 2 Air Conditioners, plus the usual lights etc, it can trip the breaker, especially if you try using the hair dryer or vacuum cleaner.

Splitting the flower lighting will be a big help.

So if I use grow tents, I'm thinking CO2 might now be an option, but probably not in a manner you're thinking. As well as growing my own pot, I also make my own booze, so I've usually got a 23L bucket of fermenting sugar water going, and rather than leave it in the kitchen, I could tap the C02 and pump it into whichever tent has the light on.

The biggest benefit will be the extra hootch I end up with :) Unfortunately I'm not a big drinker, but I can always stock up :)
 

Camaro1691

Well-Known Member
For the back grill right? Does it move enough air? I guess it must, or you wouldn't be using it...
This is one of those $40-$60 ones rather than a turbine type like you'd use to vent a tent?

I suppose, once I get started on this project, I could end up just having the whole thing sit inside, not at the window, putting a cap on the back and ducting the hot air out the window. We'll see...
It doesn’t seem to raise the temps in the bedroom that the grow room is in much if at all, as long as you have a decent draft going past the condenser and it can’t vent into the bedroom the only heat you’ll get from the a/c unit is what radiates off the ductwork going to the window. And yes just a cheepo in-line booster unit works plenty as long as it’s on the exhaust side pulling air thru rather than the intake pushing the air thru, less loss of airflow.. I’d love to be able to start using co2 but my room isn’t quite dialed in yet to where co2 will benefit me much if at all. At some point in the near future though, I’d love to get an arduino or a Pi to tinker with and setup a live PH monitor and option to adjust my PH remotely, and eventually, would love to have it soo my nutrient changes can be done remotely as well, maybe. I’m not sure how much I’d want to rely on a computer being able to tend to my plants or not dumping over 40 gallons of water into my house. The PH adjusting I would be a little more comfortable with however.
 

odam2k

Well-Known Member
It doesn’t seem to raise the temps in the bedroom that the grow room is in much if at all, as long as you have a decent draft going past the condenser and it can’t vent into the bedroom the only heat you’ll get from the a/c unit is what radiates off the ductwork going to the window. And yes just a cheepo in-line booster unit works plenty as long as it’s on the exhaust side pulling air thru rather than the intake pushing the air thru, less loss of airflow.. I’d love to be able to start using co2 but my room isn’t quite dialed in yet to where co2 will benefit me much if at all. At some point in the near future though, I’d love to get an arduino or a Pi to tinker with and setup a live PH monitor and option to adjust my PH remotely, and eventually, would love to have it soo my nutrient changes can be done remotely as well, maybe. I’m not sure how much I’d want to rely on a computer being able to tend to my plants or not dumping over 40 gallons of water into my house. The PH adjusting I would be a little more comfortable with however.
Ok, now I got it, your A/C unit is mounted in an interior wall, as if it were an outside window. Cooling the condenser draws air from that external room, and blows the heat out the back (into the external room), however, you have captured that hot air and vented it outside. Now your comments make more sense to me, sorry...

All the hydro guys seem obsessed with ph, unfortunately you can't get cheap ph sensors that can be used in automation, they all seem to be expensive industrial units. Myself, I grow in soil, and have never even checked ph :( I have however ordered a ph test pen from China, but it's apparently on the slow boat, its been over 2 months now...

As for watering, yeah, that's a lot of water, and here I am concerned about a gallon at a time...
 

odam2k

Well-Known Member
I haven't really browsed the DIY forum here much, but just found this... THIS is how I am gonna do mine...
Great thread!

 

Camaro1691

Well-Known Member
Ok, now I got it, your A/C unit is mounted in an interior wall, as if it were an outside window. Cooling the condenser draws air from that external room, and blows the heat out the back (into the external room), however, you have captured that hot air and vented it outside. Now your comments make more sense to me, sorry...

All the hydro guys seem obsessed with ph, unfortunately you can't get cheap ph sensors that can be used in automation, they all seem to be expensive industrial units. Myself, I grow in soil, and have never even checked ph :( I have however ordered a ph test pen from China, but it's apparently on the slow boat, its been over 2 months now...

As for watering, yeah, that's a lot of water, and here I am concerned about a gallon at a time...
Yes this is how I was trying to explain how I was doing my cooling, and after reading the thread you posted I’m going to change the direction of my airflow to see the results, although that won’t be till mid summer that I need my AC. And yeah I use a home built undercurrent system, PH can fluctuate a lot faster with hydro than soil, I’ve had it fluctuate from 6.4 down to 5.5 in one day when it was close to a nutrient change before as the plants drink more food the ph changes sometimes rapidly, my girls usually drink 20-25 gallons a week in flowering during their stretch, soo to me PH is a big deal, I used to have a $100 blue lab pen but it failed multiple times and seemed to have lots of trouble keeping a calibration, I upgraded to a lab grade Hanna handheld meter with a probe that can be left in the water, much much more accurate although with a $250 price tag I’d hope so haha. And this probe unscrews soo if I wanted to tie it into a automated system I’d just need to get the plug for it and has temp and ppm/ec readings
 

odam2k

Well-Known Member
I used to have a $100 blue lab pen but it failed multiple times and seemed to have lots of trouble keeping a calibration, I upgraded to a lab grade Hanna handheld meter with a probe that can be left in the water, much much more accurate although with a $250 price tag I’d hope so haha. And this probe unscrews soo if I wanted to tie it into a automated system I’d just need to get the plug for it and has temp and ppm/ec readings
I was just reading this thread about the cheap pens and extending their lives...
 

Camaro1691

Well-Known Member
I messed with the storage solutions, larger holders for more solution, never with any luck lasting more than one crop at the absolute longest, this handheld unit has proven itself over and over, you can adjust the calibration by a potentiometer, same with calibrating the ec or ppm readings, and I’ve had the probe be dry for a few days by accident and didn’t have to recalibrate, aside from going with a wall mount unit this is the way to go in my opinion, if your hydro that is haha.
 

Attachments

odam2k

Well-Known Member
Back to the I2C Relay Control Module...

This is the module which will control the water pumps for automatically watering the plants. This one is configured to support 8 relays.

1743295


Initially, I reserved one relay to control a pump which would be used to stir the water for a fixed amount of time before the watering pump started.

Instead of that idea, I'm going to steal the pump from my DWC Cloner and let it run either all the time, or on a timer.
Using that pump offers 2 benefits. It has a much higher flow rate, so will keep the water circulating much better, and it allows drawing air into the stream to create bubbles, aerating the water.

Hope to FINALLY get this installed tomorrow in the flower area to start. There are only 4 plants there right now, and one will be harvested in 2 more days....
 

odam2k

Well-Known Member
Just checked on my cuttings, they are 10 days old today...

THREE already have roots poking out of the peat pellets!

I think I've got this working again! After so many failed attempts to get clones, I think it's just temp/humidity related...
This time I used the seedling heat mat, and kept the dome on all the time (cept to peak in or to spray the leaves with plain water) It's like a jungle in there its so warm and humid..

Anyhow, day 10, and I have 3 ready to put in pots! I did throw one wilted little guy away...

1743640
 

odam2k

Well-Known Member
Just finished browsing the entire DIY forum... Lots of great ideas, some followed through to completion, although most seem to have a great idea posted, then the original poster seems to disappear, leaving you wondering if it was a bad idea, or they just lost interest...

For those of you with tents, what fabric did you get, and are you happy with it?? The place I will order my tent from has 2 levels of quality, 600D and 1680D. A 4x4 600D is $175cdn and the 4x4 1680D is $270cdn. To be fair, the more expensive one also comes with thicker poles...

The tents will be left in place, so not moved around, or set up and taken down a lot... The main wear will be on the zippers and doors...

Do I spend nearly $100 more for the higher quality? Keep in mind, doing so would be a significant financial burden, but then so is throwing away money on a cheap one, and having to buy the expensive one anyway...
 

Latitude17

Well-Known Member
What's the average environmental light situation? Where will the tents be? Is there a window in the room that would let a lot of natural light in during lights out? Will you be in the same room and want to have the lights on without having to worry?

I have used Gorilla and iPower tent products, and as long as you're > 600D I think you'll be OK - but it heavily depends on where you're putting them.
 

odam2k

Well-Known Member
What's the average environmental light situation? Where will the tents be? Is there a window in the room that would let a lot of natural light in during lights out? Will you be in the same room and want to have the lights on without having to worry?

I have used Gorilla and iPower tent products, and as long as you're > 600D I think you'll be OK - but it heavily depends on where you're putting them.

There will eventually be 3 tents, one for veg with lights on 24/day, and 2 for flower, on 12/12 but opposite schedules, so one is light and one is dark at all times.

I will want to come and go, turning on the bedroom light at any time... Currently the bedroom window is covered with black/white plastic to keep out the light (or keep in the light away from prying eyes)

I don't mind if a little light leaks out, but the bedroom light should not interfere with flowering in a dark tent...

So with a choice of either 600 or 1680, it sounds like you are saying I want to be > 600 in any case?

Thanks
 

odam2k

Well-Known Member
Just checked on my cuttings, they are 10 days old today...

THREE already have roots poking out of the peat pellets!

I think I've got this working again! After so many failed attempts to get clones, I think it's just temp/humidity related...
This time I used the seedling heat mat, and kept the dome on all the time (cept to peak in or to spray the leaves with plain water) It's like a jungle in there its so warm and humid..

Anyhow, day 10, and I have 3 ready to put in pots! I did throw one wilted little guy away...
4 more with roots today! I'm definitely back in the game as far as cloning!
 

odam2k

Well-Known Member
Here's the I2C WaterDepth Module, mounted on top of the bucket...

The wood has small blocks glued to it to hold it in place against the lip of the bucket, don't want it falling in the water :)

View attachment 1740228


I just mounted the Arduino Pro/Mini on the end of the board, and you can see the I2C wire on the left, the Ultrasonic sensor is mounted dead center in the middle of the bucket, and the small blocks will make sure it stays there... The visible pins on the arduino are for programming if needed, otherwise it gets it's power from the I2C bus...

View attachment 1740229

Now to add the water pumps, then some water...

Wow, that Library (NewPing) is fantastic if any of you are using this sensor. I've measured the depth with a ruler and compared it to the depth reported by this module, and they are perfectly in synch, at least up to the 40cm depth of my bucket.

This mini project was a complete success!
 
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