Are my plants ok? First time grower: Autoflower

[013]

Wow Jenn you are kicking butts and taking names over there!! That baby looks sensational...

scratch what I said earlier about permanently stunted & low yield, no yield

013..... opens mouth / inserts unwashed foot...

that’s twice this week - you guys are killing me!!

 

[Jenn6981]

They are looking a great deal better.

Yes I think so too.... I hope that’s a good sign
I’m going to use fox farm nutrients

 

[Jenn6981]

Wow Jenn you are kicking butts and taking names over there!! That baby looks sensational...

scratch what I said earlier about permanently stunted & low yield, no yield

013..... opens mouth / inserts unwashed foot...

that’s twice this week - you guys are killing me!!

Thank you so much. I just followed the advice from here. They are growing tremendously....,
I kinda proud of myself......
Any advice on the next steps from here, they should be flowering soon? When do I start with the nutrients? Also when do I change my light from veg to bloom?

 

[Victorytoker]

Autos will flower regardless of light cycle im not the expert on this but I've heard people say to give 18-6 till the last few weeks and then still only 16-8 cause the plant can only photosynthesis during light hours.. I will be interested to hear others responses on it

 

[Grand Daddy Black]

Start the nutes YESTERDAY! : Found:

 

[VetSmoke85]

Happy to see they're thriving now. More proof autos can be transplanted quite happily. I'd stick 18/6 or 20/4 throughout. I tend to stick with 18/6 to help with temps, but I grow in a tiny cabinet. Personally I'd start introducing 1/4 dose nutrients now and slowly build up. I'm not familiar with what's in the FFOF already though. Might be enough to keep them going another couple of weeks.

 

[013]

Autos start to flower when roots find the limits of the container, you are running 18/6 I presume? No need to step down to 12/12 they start automagically, stay on 18/6 to harvest. I wouldn’t flip light to bloom until 21 days old there abouts...or if you see fuzzy pistol hairs pop on budsites

stuff to have for harvest..... Round up some glass mason jars & lids, get one of these - jewelers loupe or mini microscope $15 or even digital microscope $35... it’s great for finding for mites, eggs & pest stuff plus also for viewing trichs, need some mini hygrometers to go in jars

About the mini hygrometers... a lot of peeps buy the cheap Chinese 1 X 2 inches molded plastic job on the rainforest site but for a few bucks more you can get nice analog style that’s made to fit as the lid for a mason jar... these are more accurate. Maybe a few bovedas 62% rh humidity packs.

 

[Jenn6981]

Autos start to flower when roots find the limits of the container, you are running 18/6 I presume? No need to step down to 12/12 they start automagically, stay on 18/6 to harvest. I wouldn’t flip light to bloom until 21 days old there abouts...or if you see fuzzy pistol hairs pop on budsites

stuff to have for harvest..... Round up some glass mason jars & lids, get one of these - jewelers loupe or mini microscope $15 or even digital microscope $35... it’s great for finding for mites, eggs & pest stuff plus also for viewing trichs, need some mini hygrometers to go in jars

About the mini hygrometers... a lot of peeps buy the cheap Chinese 1 X 2 inches molded plastic job on the rainforest site but for a few bucks more you can get nice analog style that’s made to fit as the lid for a mason jar... these are more accurate. Maybe a few bovedas 62% rh humidity packs.

I’ve been running my veg lights 24/24. I’m growing in a 2x2 tent in my garage. I will definitely go pick up the nutes. Do I stop the cal-mag? Currently my temps in the tent go from 75 to 85 and my humidity at 50 to 65

 

[Victorytoker]

Autos start to flower when roots find the limits of the container, you are running 18/6 I presume? No need to step down to 12/12 they start automagically, stay on 18/6 to harvest. I wouldn’t flip light to bloom until 21 days old there abouts...or if you see fuzzy pistol hairs pop on budsites

stuff to have for harvest..... Round up some glass mason jars & lids, get one of these - jewelers loupe or mini microscope $15 or even digital microscope $35... it’s great for finding for mites, eggs & pest stuff plus also for viewing trichs, need some mini hygrometers to go in jars

About the mini hygrometers... a lot of peeps buy the cheap Chinese 1 X 2 inches molded plastic job on the rainforest site but for a few bucks more you can get nice analog style that’s made to fit as the lid for a mason jar... these are more accurate. Maybe a few bovedas 62% rh humidity packs.

Good info. Everybody should have at least a few analogies humidity meters, they never lie but are slower to react. I never knew about the Mason jar lids.. i will have to look into those.

 

[013]

I forgot that... great 24 ON straight up! Nope carry on with cal mag, plant needs it. It’s good to run a bucket of water & let sit out overnite to off gas any chlorine... for chloramine 1 1000 mg vitamin C tablet is good to neutralize a standard bathtub of water or 15 gallon equivalent. Maybe look into city / county water website to see what they use.

so take water & add nutes first, then add cal-mag, then smoke a doob & wait 15 minutes then finally adjust ph.... if you are doing ph that is. Also assuming North America and fall headed into winter.... it may help to get your tent off the concrete slab... remember warm air rises / cool air sinks... the floor is coldest point in any room, the ceiling is the warmest. For an indoor or covered concrete slab the year round temp is between 55 to 58 degrees Fahrenheit because of moisture in the earth. I’m in basement on concrete & have 2 layers of 1 inch sheet foam on top of slab, then my tent, then a cut down pallet to raise even more, then a kiddie pool for drip pan where my plants are sitting on plant elevators... Roots don’t like cold...

make sure that temp probe is at canopy level.... 85 is a bit high

I’m truly impressed.... you’ve got this covered and if problems arise, we are just one post away!

 

[Jenn6981]

I forgot that... great 24 ON straight up! Nope carry on with cal mag, plant needs it. It’s good to run a bucket of water & let sit out overnite to off gas any chlorine... for chloramine 1 1000 mg vitamin C tablet is good to neutralize a standard bathtub of water or 15 gallon equivalent. Maybe look into city / county water website to see what they use.

so take water & add nutes first, then add cal-mag, then smoke a doob & wait 15 minutes then finally adjust ph.... if you are doing ph that is. Also assuming North America and fall headed into winter.... it may help to get your tent off the concrete slab... remember warm air rises / cool air sinks... the floor is coldest point in any room, the ceiling is the warmest. For an indoor or covered concrete slab the year round temp is between 55 to 58 degrees Fahrenheit because of moisture in the earth. I’m in basement on concrete & have 2 layers of 1 inch sheet foam on top of slab, then my tent, then a cut down pallet to raise even more, then a kiddie pool for drip pan where my plants are sitting on plant elevators... Roots don’t like cold...

make sure that temp probe is at canopy level.... 85 is a bit high

I’m truly impressed.... you’ve got this covered and if problems arise, we are just one post away!

I’m in the southwestern part of the US.
the temp here even in the garage doesn’t drop to low.....I have a humidifier running inside the tent....during the day it doesn’t get past 85 doesn’t drop lower than 75 at night. My garage is also my smoke/lounge area so im in it quite a bit. To be honest I haven’t tested the ph. Only given the plant tap water and one does of cal-mag at this point.
Tomorrow is watering day and I will given them some cal-mag. My fox farm nutrients should be arriving next week.
I did check and the plants they have 3 layers of leaves now. Based on what your saying I should start them on bloom next week

 

[013]

Ah southwest usa - then you are the exception on high moisture & rh oozing out from the soil. Technically there’s no need to adjust ph in a well buffered soil like FF.

Two schools of thought....

1) run grow / veg light settings not bloom / flower light settings until after buds are set, which is a week or two after pistils first appear... continue to feed grow nutes until buds are set

2) flip bloom light setting right away and start bloom nutes right away

I’m in the 1st camp.... grow as hard as you can to pack on as much growth as possible until after the buds are set and then convert to bloom or flower tactics. But other arguments are valid too

As always the choice is yours..... but see what others have to say before taking the leap

 

[013]

Bump putting you back up top to see if you catch any more replies

 

[Jenn6981]

Bump putting you back up top to see if you catch any more replies

Thank you. Here are some pictures from today, yesterday I watered and gave them cal-mag.....they definitely are quite layered.....
Funny cause now I’m like ok what do I do?

 

[013]

They look amazing, I’m so excited for you. I was bummed out before because I was confident the answer was nixing the old stuff and starting over, I’m happy to be totally wrong

Simple - Keep doing what you are doing

 

[Jenn6981]

They look amazing, I’m so excited for you. I was bummed out before because I was confident the answer was nixing the old stuff and starting over, I’m happy to be totally wrong

Simple - Keep doing what you are doing

Thanks! I was hoping this was a good sign. How long do you think before they actually start to flower?

 

[SoGnotSOG321]

2 weeks before you get a lot of pistol production, on the water no nutes, next time add nutrients to water and apply, next time water no nutes.
There are very good instructions with the FF nutrients line that probably do not jibe with the water with nutes and water without, back n forth.

I see people recommend half strength nutrients and I can't argue with it but wtf would you do that the first time? See if it can take a full strength dose, there's not that much to those FF nutrient levels and I've seen just as many problems from not enough at the right time. If you aren't watering every day or every other day and letting it dry up you'll notice it right away, and leaf tip nute burn isnt a death sentence, it's a sign you're riding the edge. That's where you'll see it if it's to much and then you can back off to half or skip a feed altogether.
You've made fantastic progress. GG

 

[013]

Between a week or two they should find the edges of their containers, I’d keep working the wet dry cycle hard to build roots now, she will build roots freely in veg but in flower cycle the root building process slows considerably. Once the buds are set maintain a moist soil, don’t let it dry out. There’s other ways too but that’s how I was taught.... run wet dry cycle hard in veg but keep soil moist in flower.

 

[Jenn6981]

Here they are today. Just growing growing growing.
At any point do I trim anything or the stress training I have heard about?

 

[013]

You‘ve got autos, any topping or training needs to be complete before day 21. Plus you are limited by a smaller tent. With photos the concept is veg until they get 1/2 the height of your tent to allow for stretch, but it’s not really 1/2 the height of the tent.... it’s 1/2 the height between top of container and bottom of the light.

I think you have 2 X 2 X 4 tent but not sure, saw the 2 X 2 but not the last digit

Yes, topping can be good to slow a plant down a little but these are autos so who knows the outcome? They do look good & vigorous NOT STUNTED!!! Had to toss that in there, so let’s try to avoid any of that. You could take a chance on a bit of topping but look at it this way topping is higher stress, therefore we go to LST, SCROG other stuff to avoid it. But LST & scrog are not good options for 4 plants in a small space with a new grower. Maybe lst 1 just to get a feel for it. Search for InTheShed and he has lst tutorial in his signature line.

I would probably just grow straight Christmas tree style plants (no topping or training) with apical dominance just because 4 in a 2 X 2 is full house anyway. I would suggest on your next round cutting down to 1 well topped or trained plant in a big bag and filling that 2 X 2 wall to wall. Then when you flip to flower start vegging your next bean. However that will work better if you have photos since you can’t control the start of flower on an auto easily.... but you can on a photo. The start of flower can be delayed on an auto by partial defol.... but that’s a pro move. Whereas on photos you have full control since you program the timer! But I defer to you.... after you soak up a few opinions on your latest question and have a chance to look at InTheShed‘s tutorial