Auto Blueberry Berry growing problem

[Emilya Green]

I suspect you are becoming rootbound in those containers. If they werent getting enough nutrition there would be other problems along with the yellowing at the bottom of the plant. It looks like you have enough room in those containers to simply lift the plant up and put some fresh soil underneath, giving her a little more room for expansion. I would try that first to see if you can mitigate this problem.

 

[Nunyabiz]

Water everyday at 1/4 strength nutrients.

 

[Vadura]

I suspect you are becoming rootbound in those containers. If they werent getting enough nutrition there would be other problems along with the yellowing at the bottom of the plant. It looks like you have enough room in those containers to simply lift the plant up and put some fresh soil underneath, giving her a little more room for expansion. I would try that first to see if you can mitigate this problem.

If I lift her, don't I kill her or do her roots break? If not...should I wait until the soil is dry or just after I water it?

 

[Emilya Green]

Get someone to help you and gently squeeze around the sides of the container about a day before watering day, when the soil is still a little moist to help hold it together during the move. After squeezing, a couple of taps on the bottom should allow the entire rootball to slide out of there without any damage at all to the plant. Then, backfill some soil in the bottom, just enough to raise the original rootball up to about an inch below the rim, and then after placing the plant back in there, backfill some new soil in around the edges too. This new soil should not only give her roots some extra room, without all the stress of an actual uppotting, but it will also give a little boost as the fresh new soil is added to the system.

 

[Vadura]

Get someone to help you and gently squeeze around the sides of the container about a day before watering day, when the soil is still a little moist to help hold it together during the move. After squeezing, a couple of taps on the bottom should allow the entire rootball to slide out of there without any damage at all to the plant. Then, backfill some soil in the bottom, just enough to raise the original rootball up to about an inch below the rim, and then after placing the plant back in there, backfill some new soil in around the edges too. This new soil should not only give her roots some extra room, without all the stress of an actual uppotting, but it will also give a little boost as the fresh new soil is added to the system.

Thanks a lot Emilya! I have some new soil but it's different from the one that I have in those pots. Is it ok if there will be 2 types of soil there?

 

[Emilya Green]

Thanks a lot Emilya! I have some new soil but it's different from the one that I have in those pots. Is it ok if there will be 2 types of soil there?

It should be fine, as long as it is suitable for cannabis

 

[Vadura]

Hello guys! So...yestarday I took out the plant from the pot...I used Emilya's procedure to add some new soil below and above and fortunatly nothing bad happend.Thanks again Emilya for those tips!

After doing this I saw that today did not appear new yellow leafs...I know that it is to soon to say that the problem is resolved but at least did not advance.

Now I have a little problem with the other plant...as you may see in the photo below ...her leafs have some porous and white texture on the top of the plant. Is that powdery mildew? Should I use a combination of 60%milk and 40% water to spray those leafs? (This is what I found over the internet when I search for this problem) or should I leave it as it is?

Ps: you can see in the last photo the difference between the left plant and the right plant leafs. In the left it is the big plant and in the right the small one with the white porous ,,thing".

 

[Nunyabiz]

I don't see anything but trichomes in both bottom pics.
If thats what you're talking about then leave those alone.

 

[Vadura]

I don't see anything but trichomes in both bottom pics.
If thats what you're talking about then leave those alone.

Ok. Thanks!

 

[Vadura]

There are 3/4 days since I put some soil below and above the plant..as I said before but it seems that the leafs from the top started to get yellow too. It seems to me that the most affected leafs are the old and big ones. You can see in the photos below. What could be the problem if I cut off from the list the crowded root part?

Temperature and humidity are: 78F and 47%. Distance between led lamp and top of the plant is 18,5inch.

And I would have another question: if the new soil that I added has mineral fertilizer NPK 12-14-24, is it ok to feed them how have I done so far?

 

[Emilya Green]

You seem to be having some non mobile nutrient issues... are you feeding full strength?

 

[Vadura]

You seem to be having some non mobile nutrient issues... are you feeding full strength?

Hello Emilya! I don't know which are the non mobile nutrients...could you please explain this to me? About the feeding....I use 0,5ml per litre. On the nutrients bottle is recomended 2ml per litre of water. I'm using such a little amount because I don't want to overfeed them (you can see some burn leaf tips and from what I read over the internet I think it a sign of too much fertiliser...am I wrong?).

 

[Emilya Green]

Hello Emilya! I don't know which are the non mobile nutrients...could you please explain this to me? About the feeding....I use 0,5ml per litre. On the nutrients bottle is recomended 2ml per litre of water. I'm using such a little amount because I don't want to overfeed them (you can see some burn leaf tips and from what I read over the internet I think it a sign of too much fertiliser...am I wrong?).

Non mobile means that the plant can not store them and then move them when needed. Non mobile nutes must be given regularly or deficiencies will be seen in the upper leaves. You also have some yellowing in lower leaves that is indicating that there are also mobile nutrients not being given in the right amounts, so that is why I asked about the feeding rate.

You have misdiagnosed your leaf tips and instead of a burn, it was a potassium deficiency... potassium is stored in the leaf tips and is removed from the tips when the buds need more of that element, and this process is oftentimes misdiagnosed by internet gurus as a burn.

So the manufacturer has recommended 2ml per liter, but you have decided that they don't have a clue what is really needed, and you have cut it down to 1/4th dosage. It is no wonder your plants are in trouble. Your decision is what is wrong with your plants, nothing more. Trust the manufacturer to know their own product, and trust your now much larger plants to be able to use that nutrient. If you insist on continuing to be this timid with the nutes, you will continue to have these problems.

The tip burn thing is very commonly misdiagnosed. Every organically grown plant that I have ever grown has given me this symptom, and they are not being overfed... they are not even being fed, other than by the microbes and what is stored in the soil for them to use. Why would the plant "burn" itself? The correct answer is that it does not, and the only logical conclusion is that the tip "burn" does not always indicate a burn. Sometimes it is a potassium deficiency and sometimes it is simply the plant indicating that on that round, it got all the nutrition it needed. Truly overfeed a plant sometime and see what happens as a result. Color goes way dark... leaves claw and curl... lockouts occur with spotting and dead spots all over the leaves... an over fed plant looks stressed... it doesn't just have yellow leaf tips.

 

[Vadura]

Non mobile means that the plant can not store them and then move them when needed. Non mobile nutes must be given regularly or deficiencies will be seen in the upper leaves. You also have some yellowing in lower leaves that is indicating that there are also mobile nutrients not being given in the right amounts, so that is why I asked about the feeding rate.

You have misdiagnosed your leaf tips and instead of a burn, it was a potassium deficiency... potassium is stored in the leaf tips and is removed from the tips when the buds need more of that element, and this process is oftentimes misdiagnosed by internet gurus as a burn.

So the manufacturer has recommended 2ml per liter, but you have decided that they don't have a clue what is really needed, and you have cut it down to 1/4th dosage. It is no wonder your plants are in trouble. Your decision is what is wrong with your plants, nothing more. Trust the manufacturer to know their own product, and trust your now much larger plants to be able to use that nutrient. If you insist on continuing to be this timid with the nutes, you will continue to have these problems.

The tip burn thing is very commonly misdiagnosed. Every organically grown plant that I have ever grown has given me this symptom, and they are not being overfed... they are not even being fed, other than by the microbes and what is stored in the soil for them to use. Why would the plant "burn" itself? The correct answer is that it does not, and the only logical conclusion is that the tip "burn" does not always indicate a burn. Sometimes it is a potassium deficiency and sometimes it is simply the plant indicating that on that round, it got all the nutrition it needed. Truly overfeed a plant sometime and see what happens as a result. Color goes way dark... leaves claw and curl... lockouts occur with spotting and dead spots all over the leaves... an over fed plant looks stressed... it doesn't just have yellow leaf tips.

Thanks a lot Emilya for all these informations! Ok I'll start using the recommended dose 2ml/liter(even it's an auto). Should I buy any other type of fertiliser for them or it is enough the micro/grow/bloom trio from Advanced Nutrients? And as a noob that I am....in how many days should I see some signs of improvements?

 

[Emilya Green]

Autos are simply faster running and usually smaller plants than their photo counterparts. A small plant will use and need less nutes, but a large auto needs just as many nutes as a correspondingly large photo does. There is no difference just because one happens to be an auto.

Since you already don't trust AN to follow their recommendations, I can see why you might think you need to also supplement with additional nutes. Trust the line you are in. Follow their recommendations to the letter. As with all things in the plant world, nothing happens immediately and sometimes great patience is needed to see the effect of a small change made in the normal routine. You should expect to see a gradual greening return to the damaged leaves within 48 hours of the increased feed, and full good color should return after 3 complete wet/dry cycles. You have been starving your plants for quite some time and only now you are seeing the effects of it in the leaves... expect it to take just as long to recover.

 

[Vadura]

Autos are simply faster running and usually smaller plants than their photo counterparts. A small plant will use and need less nutes, but a large auto needs just as many nutes as a correspondingly large photo does. There is no difference just because one happens to be an auto.

Since you already don't trust AN to follow their recommendations, I can see why you might think you need to also supplement with additional nutes. Trust the line you are in. Follow their recommendations to the letter. As with all things in the plant world, nothing happens immediately and sometimes great patience is needed to see the effect of a small change made in the normal routine. You should expect to see a gradual greening return to the damaged leaves within 48 hours of the increased feed, and full good color should return after 3 complete wet/dry cycles. You have been starving your plants for quite some time and only now you are seeing the effects of it in the leaves... expect it to take just as long to recover.

Thank you so much Emilya! I don't know what I was doing without this comunity. I'll come with updates in the next days. Thanks again!

 

[Vadura]

Guys...today is time for some watering...but seeing that my plants were starving for such a long time....should I feed them...instead of just watering? On AN bottles is saying that I can use 1 or 2 times per week. My plants make an dry/wet/dry circle in about 3days...and I usually have a watering/ feeding/ watering/ feeding strategy. Last time (3days ago) I fed them..is it ok to feed tham again today without haveing a watering between?

 

[bluter]

you might wanna change your sched up to a f/f/w or even f/f/f/w. f/w/f/w will probably starve them out.

what's your media and nutes ? your sched will change drastically depending on media and nutes.
you look like you're in coco. coco would be fed every watering, and follow a f/f/f/w sched to avoid salt build up with AN, if you are still using them as nutes.

also i would not trust the ph perfect line and would monitor ph. ph is 5.8 in coco.

 

[Vadura]

Hi bluter! It's soil but with some coco too. I manage to have 6,3ph every time I feed or water them. Ok thanks a lot for your answer! I will f/f/w from now on. Cheers mate!

 

[bluter]

according to the bag you posted you are in a peat based media that is slightly nuted, and has had dolomite added to buffer the peat.

recommended ph is 6.0, placing your media in the "soil" category. a f/f/w or f/f/f/w sched would be appropriate. keep watch, if the plants look a bit grumpy on f/f/w, add the extra feed in of a f/f/f/w sched.


edit: there is no coco in your media.