I have grown a few MMJ plants. With the trim, I have made dry ice hash out of the trim by shaking the trim up in a bucket with dry ice to break off the trichomes and then sifted it through a 160 micron pollen bag (not sure the leaf material is of much use if I collect all of the trichomes). I want to make a salve using Emu Oil and the hash. I have over 5 grams of the hash which is nearly 100% pure and have decarbed it at 240F for 1 hour and 20 minutes. Most recipes say to use a double boiler to cook your trim in coconut oil. Coconut oil is a medium chain triglyceride good for absorbing the CBD/THC/terpines off the green plant material. Then they say mix the coconut oil with Emu oil and add bees wax to stiffen it up into a salve consistency. I believe Emu Oil is a triglyceride but not sure if it is a medium chain triglyceride that is good for dissolving everything into a nice homogeneous mixture. Can I skip the whole coconut oil infusion step since I already have the good stuff removed from the leave, and just mix my decarbed hash with straight Emu Oil from better transfer through the skin (i.e., not diluted with coconut oil)? Do I need to boil my decarbed trichomes in the Emu Oil - using the double boiler if I must - to make it work? If so, at what temperature and for how long do I cook it in the Emu oil? Does someone have a better way of making a healing salve with my trim? I like the Emu Oil idea for its trans dermal features. Looking for relief for arthritis.
Best Way To Make A Healing Salve With Emu Oil
- Thread starter kingkola1
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I would read through this.
Magnus8's Canna Cream, Body Butter & Canna Lotion Study Hall
Magnus8's Canna Cream, Body Butter & Canna Lotion Study Hall
No expert here, but I would think all you have to do would be to dissolve your hash into the oil and that’s pretty much that, other than adding some beeswax to thicken it. No need for any heating at all since you’ve already decarbed the hash.
I’d actually never heard of emu oil before this- looks like good stuff. Expensive
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I’ve made various canna salves with coconut, jojoba, grape seed, and hemp oil. Out of all of them I liked jojoba the most. I found coconut oil to be the most greasy one. Not that it didn’t work well, but I want something I can apply in bed and under clothing without a lot of mess.
My advice would be to just experiment and mix/dissolve a little of your hash into some emu oil and see how it works. I can’t see why it wouldn’t.
The thread that A Bird posted is very good. Not sure if that guy is around any more or not but there’s a lot of good info.
I’d actually never heard of emu oil before this- looks like good stuff. Expensive
.I’ve made various canna salves with coconut, jojoba, grape seed, and hemp oil. Out of all of them I liked jojoba the most. I found coconut oil to be the most greasy one. Not that it didn’t work well, but I want something I can apply in bed and under clothing without a lot of mess.
My advice would be to just experiment and mix/dissolve a little of your hash into some emu oil and see how it works. I can’t see why it wouldn’t.
The thread that A Bird posted is very good. Not sure if that guy is around any more or not but there’s a lot of good info.
If he isn't, we have SweetSue
But I was here when he started it and remember he explained alot.
But I was here when he started it and remember he explained alot.
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Great link AngryBird, and thanks for the thoughts Weaselcracker! I have been trying to copy the EMU Black Medicated Rub by Cannariginals. It works the best of any commercial I tried but it comes in at $125/ounce jar (ouch). Magnus8 mentions Emu oil briefly and then discusses further how good lard transfers through the skin. Emu oil is oil derived from the fat of the Emu bird. I have read that the Emu Oil is used as a medicated rub all by itself because of how good it moves through the skin. It has been used for thousands of years to relieve minor aches and pains, help wounds heal quicker, and protect skin from the elements.
I have a little trouble understanding what exactly emulsify means in the Magnus8 discussions. Most commonly, one would cook the trim in an oil to, as a minimum, remove the trichomes from the green plant material. What I don't know is if the cooking also breaks down the oils inside the tiny trichomes to combine the weed oils to the Emu oil molecules so it can be carried through the skin?
The trichomes are the microscopic mushroom looking things that contain the THC-A, CBD-A and terpines - all of the good stuff we want (take the '-A' off if decarbed). By making the dry ice hash, the trichomes are frozen on the green leafy material and then the fragile trichomes are broken off of the leafy material by shaking it all around in a bucket for 4 minutes, and then sifting it through a 160 mesh pollen bag. This is often called dry ice hash.
Using dry ice hash, I quickly get nearly 100% pure material that is easy to accurately make the rub to the exact concentration I am looking for and is thus very repeatable. It also doesn't leave as much of an objectionable plant smell that people like to cover up by adding things like Lavender oil.
Anyway, that is why I am asking if when I mix the hash in the oil, do I need to cook my decarbed hash in the oil to first soften up and break open the skin of the trichomes so that what is inside the trichomes can dissolve or otherwise combine well with the oil. OR if I don't heat the oil and trichomes up, will I just have suspension of tiny trichomes floating around in the oil? Will a suspension of trichomes actually transfer through the skin due to their size?
I think in the end, I will use Emu Oil, dry ice hash, and 5% to 8% bees wax (the amount of bees wax Magnus8 mentioned; too much bees wax blocks it from going through the skin).
I think the only question that remains is the need to cook the hash and oil together? So, what exactly DOES happen when Magnus8 does the emulsifying step?
By the way, Magnus8 also steers people away from coconut oil for healing rubs due to its poor trans dermal properties which is why it has that greasy property Weaslecracker mentions - the oil just stays on the skin.
I have a little trouble understanding what exactly emulsify means in the Magnus8 discussions. Most commonly, one would cook the trim in an oil to, as a minimum, remove the trichomes from the green plant material. What I don't know is if the cooking also breaks down the oils inside the tiny trichomes to combine the weed oils to the Emu oil molecules so it can be carried through the skin?
The trichomes are the microscopic mushroom looking things that contain the THC-A, CBD-A and terpines - all of the good stuff we want (take the '-A' off if decarbed). By making the dry ice hash, the trichomes are frozen on the green leafy material and then the fragile trichomes are broken off of the leafy material by shaking it all around in a bucket for 4 minutes, and then sifting it through a 160 mesh pollen bag. This is often called dry ice hash.
Using dry ice hash, I quickly get nearly 100% pure material that is easy to accurately make the rub to the exact concentration I am looking for and is thus very repeatable. It also doesn't leave as much of an objectionable plant smell that people like to cover up by adding things like Lavender oil.
Anyway, that is why I am asking if when I mix the hash in the oil, do I need to cook my decarbed hash in the oil to first soften up and break open the skin of the trichomes so that what is inside the trichomes can dissolve or otherwise combine well with the oil. OR if I don't heat the oil and trichomes up, will I just have suspension of tiny trichomes floating around in the oil? Will a suspension of trichomes actually transfer through the skin due to their size?
I think in the end, I will use Emu Oil, dry ice hash, and 5% to 8% bees wax (the amount of bees wax Magnus8 mentioned; too much bees wax blocks it from going through the skin).
I think the only question that remains is the need to cook the hash and oil together? So, what exactly DOES happen when Magnus8 does the emulsifying step?
By the way, Magnus8 also steers people away from coconut oil for healing rubs due to its poor trans dermal properties which is why it has that greasy property Weaslecracker mentions - the oil just stays on the skin.
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- #6
Hmmm, maybe I just answered the emulsion question, Weaslecracker. I just looked up what an emulsion is: its fine dispersion of minute droplets of one liquid in another in which it is not soluble. So from that definition, I would think the trichomes could be whole or broken open and either way they are going to be suspended in the oil and not actually chemically bonded to the oil. So, I would think just mixing the trichomes in the oil should be good (like Weaslecracker said above), when I melt in the bees wax to make it more a paste consistency, that should help lock-in the suspension of trichomes in the Emu Oil. Does that make any sense?
By the way, this rub will be made from dry ice has taken from Harlequin trim that is 5:2 CBD:THC - should be a good rub for arthritis.
By the way, this rub will be made from dry ice has taken from Harlequin trim that is 5:2 CBD:THC - should be a good rub for arthritis.
You have a few good links here too
SweetSue's Threads
Also, sounds like he meant mixing the two =emulsifying.. I have read about emulsifying wax.. But I can't express it enough to explain it.
SweetSue's Threads
Also, sounds like he meant mixing the two =emulsifying.. I have read about emulsifying wax.. But I can't express it enough to explain it.
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- #8
Hmmm, maybe I just answered the emulsion question, Weaslecracker. I just looked up what an emulsion is: its fine dispersion of minute droplets of one liquid in another in which it is not soluble. So from that definition, I would think the trichomes could be whole or broken open and either way they are going to be suspended in the oil and not actually chemically bonded to the oil. So, I would think just mixing the trichomes in the oil should be good (like Weaslecracker said above), when I melt in the bees wax to make it more a paste consistency, that should help lock-in the suspension of trichomes in the Emu Oil. Does that make any sense?
By the way, this rub will be made from dry ice has taken from Harlequin trim that is 5:2 CBD:THC - should be a good rub for arthritis.
Ok sounds like you already know more than me. I barely looked at that thread- just noticed that it’s got a lot of info. Looks like I’ll have to go read through it. I do know what an emulsion is though. Common examples would be blended oil and vinegar salad dressings, and ‘water based’ varnishes.
I would have thought the trichomes fully dissolved into the oil, since oil is the best thing to effectively dissolve and clean up dried resin, utensils and containers after hash making, and on trimming gloves/hands.
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- #10
Not sure I know more than you, Weaselcracker; I am a novice myself continuing to try to learn as much as I can and appreciate everyone's input. I understand the emulsion part now. But more than that, your comment about using oil to clean dried resin was genius. I received a new bottle of Emu Oil yesterday. I took a piece of paper towel and tried to clean some hard to remove sticky resin from my trim shears and it cleaned up very nicely leaving a green tint on the towel but the shears were perfectly clean; still some stains left. So, then I took my 91% isopropyl alcohol (what I usually use to clean my shears) and nothing further came off the shears after extensive rubbing (they are just permanent stains). So, I am pretty convinced that the kief will dissolve in Emu Oil at room temperature, and wont end up as just an emulsion.
So, this weekend I will mix my Emu Oil with the appropriate amount of my decarbed dry ice hash to copy the commercial product. To add the bees wax, I will heat the oil/kief mixture up in a make-shift double boiler, working up to 5% to 8% wax to stiffen it up to a paste or firm cream consistency at room temperature. I will add a little bees wax at a time, mix it until it dissolves, then put a couple of drops on the cool tile counter top to see if it solidifies like melted candle wax would if I did the same thing. Then increase the amount of bees wax as needed to a max of 8%.
The commercial brand I mentioned in the original post advertises 120 mg CBD, 60 mg THC, and 27900 mg Emu Oil (about 1 ounce total). My Harliquin Kief is 5:2 CBD:THC (a slightly different ratio than the 3:1 ratio that I am copying). That would mean to get 120 mg of CBD, I would add 168 mg of Kief assuming 100% pure material (120 mg CBD plus 48 mg THC). Since my Kief is not likely to be exactly 100% pure CBD and THC oil, I will round up about 20% to 200 mg of Kief to compensate for imperfections in my Kief. 27900 mg + 200 mg = 28100 mg so 5% to 8% beeswax would weigh in at about 1400 mg to 2250 mg.
Anyway, thanks for everyone's help! We will see how it goes.
I understand the emulsion part now. But more than that, your comment about using oil to clean dried resin was genius. I received a new bottle of Emu Oil yesterday. I took a piece of paper towel and tried to clean some hard to remove sticky resin from my trim shears and it cleaned up very nicely leaving a green tint on the towel but the shears were perfectly clean; still some stains left. So, then I took my 91% isopropyl alcohol (what I usually use to clean my shears) and nothing further came off the shears after extensive rubbing (they are just permanent stains). So, I am pretty convinced that the kief will dissolve in Emu Oil at room temperature, and wont end up as just an emulsion.So, this weekend I will mix my Emu Oil with the appropriate amount of my decarbed dry ice hash to copy the commercial product. To add the bees wax, I will heat the oil/kief mixture up in a make-shift double boiler, working up to 5% to 8% wax to stiffen it up to a paste or firm cream consistency at room temperature. I will add a little bees wax at a time, mix it until it dissolves, then put a couple of drops on the cool tile counter top to see if it solidifies like melted candle wax would if I did the same thing. Then increase the amount of bees wax as needed to a max of 8%.
The commercial brand I mentioned in the original post advertises 120 mg CBD, 60 mg THC, and 27900 mg Emu Oil (about 1 ounce total). My Harliquin Kief is 5:2 CBD:THC (a slightly different ratio than the 3:1 ratio that I am copying). That would mean to get 120 mg of CBD, I would add 168 mg of Kief assuming 100% pure material (120 mg CBD plus 48 mg THC). Since my Kief is not likely to be exactly 100% pure CBD and THC oil, I will round up about 20% to 200 mg of Kief to compensate for imperfections in my Kief. 27900 mg + 200 mg = 28100 mg so 5% to 8% beeswax would weigh in at about 1400 mg to 2250 mg.
Anyway, thanks for everyone's help! We will see how it goes.
Good luck 
When I add the beeswax my usual method would be to heat a small separate bit of oil to disssolve all the wax in. Then I quickly stir that wax/oil mix into the main batch of emu/hash oil. Understand what I mean? This way I avoid heating up the main batch. It’s just a tip someone told me.
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- #13
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Well, I made 8 fluid ounces of product today. I added more than 1600 mg Kief to 8 fluid ounces of triple refined organic Emu oil, 50 drops of Lavender oil (mostly for aroma) and 7% beeswax pellets. The final thickness at 80F is about the same as Valvoline petroleum jelly. Emu Oil at 75F is about as thick as Frenches yellow mustard. I would imagine my final product will be a thick liquid like molasses at 90F. Though the final product is not as firm as I would like, it is probably more important that it functions as a medicated rub rather than thickening it up with more beeswax to a preconceived hardness. Any ideas to help thicken it up more? Or just put it in the fridge on the hot days?
I read that the anti inflammatory properties of Emu Oil doesn't degrade until exceeding 450F, The Kief was decarbed at 240F and read that beeswax liquefies at about 145F. So, I mixed the whole batch together in a double boiler and monitored the temperature so it was just high enough to just melt the beeswax and stirred to dissolve the Kief. The whole mixing process was about 10 minutes roughly.
I read that the anti inflammatory properties of Emu Oil doesn't degrade until exceeding 450F, The Kief was decarbed at 240F and read that beeswax liquefies at about 145F. So, I mixed the whole batch together in a double boiler and monitored the temperature so it was just high enough to just melt the beeswax and stirred to dissolve the Kief. The whole mixing process was about 10 minutes roughly.
You can just repeat the process and add a little more beeswax. I’ve sometimes had to do that more than once to get it right- I don’t think it hurts anything.
Thank you for all of the info. I’ve actually ordered emu oil because I want to give this a try. I’m wondering did you find the ideal ratio of beeswax to email oil, giving you a firmer topical without impeding the amazing absorption of the emu oil?Not sure I know more than you, Weaselcracker; I am a novice myself continuing to try to learn as much as I can and appreciate everyone's input.
So, this weekend I will mix my Emu Oil with the appropriate amount of my decarbed dry ice hash to copy the commercial product. To add the bees wax, I will heat the oil/kief mixture up in a make-shift double boiler, working up to 5% to 8% wax to stiffen it up to a paste or firm cream consistency at room temperature. I will add a little bees wax at a time, mix it until it dissolves, then put a couple of drops on the cool tile counter top to see if it solidifies like melted candle wax would if I did the same thing. Then increase the amount of bees wax as needed to a max of 8%.
The commercial brand I mentioned in the original post advertises 120 mg CBD, 60 mg THC, and 27900 mg Emu Oil (about 1 ounce total). My Harliquin Kief is 5:2 CBD:THC (a slightly different ratio than the 3:1 ratio that I am copying). That would mean to get 120 mg of CBD, I would add 168 mg of Kief assuming 100% pure material (120 mg CBD plus 48 mg THC). Since my Kief is not likely to be exactly 100% pure CBD and THC oil, I will round up about 20% to 200 mg of Kief to compensate for imperfections in my Kief. 27900 mg + 200 mg = 28100 mg so 5% to 8% beeswax would weigh in at about 1400 mg to 2250 mg.
Anyway, thanks for everyone's help! We will see how it goes.
