Blue Mystic Goes Volcanic & The Fun Gi

Fuzzy Duck

Well-Known Member
Nirvana - Blue Mystic

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Well here goe's another journal with some slight changes to my soil mix, i'll see how this pans out over the next few months !

The new soil mix... in a 100cm by 100cm tray which made it slightly easyer to work out what was needed to be honest as most stuff comes in applications per meter square.

The tray contains a total of 25 litres of compost which is a mixture of 75% spent/used biobizz all mix, 25% farmyard manure, 500g of volcanic rock dust & 135g of bone meal for 4 X 6 litre airpots.

3 litres of water was applied & mixed very well & left to sit in an old kitchen bin to cook for a few weeks.

Cooking you may ask ? well with bone meal, volcanic rock dust & other stuff you may use to improve your soil for growing plants... it often states apply 4 weeks prior to planting !

This is so that it can begin to break down & not be so damn hot for those young tender plants you wish to grow :thumb:

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Farmyard manure - Low NPK value plus trace micro nutrients from urine of animals & totally loaded up with humus, if ya worried about pathogens the heat created in the decomponsition kills a lot of them ! after all mankind has been using animal manure since agriculture was formed many thousands of years ago & Fuzzy ain't gonna argue with that :high-five:

Humus breaks down into humic acids 'n' stuff, essential carbons in soil which is pretty cool & useful for microbes/fungi etc etc which live in the soil.

Volcanic rock dust - Is known to have 2/3 rds of the periodic table of elements in it & that should speak for it self :goodjob: & about as much as fuzzy gonna get to high brix standards...

Bone meal - Mainly low N - Nitrogen & a medium P - Phosphorus ratio and has a decomposing life span of around 4 to 6 months also contains calcium - Ca.

Did your mother not always tell you to drink all the milk up ? as it makes your bones strong = calcium :love:


P & Ca is all part of the high brix method, i could off sourced soft rock phosphate but bone meal was easyer to find & cheaper alternative... lol, what ever i lack with bone meal when compared to soft rock phosphate should be easyer enough to supplement with biobizz nutrients.


All of the above should fit into this.....



The Four Bases of Mineralized Soil

The Optimum Food Supply for People and Animals Should Be Grown On Mineralized Soil. This Type Of Soil Isn’t to be Found—It Is Crafted.

Mineralized SoilSoil is a marvelous and complex part of creation. Soil has been meticulously studied and written about from many perspectives. Beginning in the 1850’s Russian scientists began to classify soils based on their various properties including geological origins. By 1900 American scientists were significantly adding to the knowledge of soil science. From the 1920’s-1950’s Russian research on soil microbiology was at its pinnacle. With the honorable exception of Dr. William Albrecht, American research and universities began focusing more on cultural practices that would profit agribusiness rather than raising the nutritional standard of the foods being produced.

Three notable pioneers consisting of Dr. Charles Northern, Dr. Carey Reams, and Albert Carter Savage, all working in the private sector, were greatly alarmed at the precipitous decline in the nutrient density of our foods and the disconnect between soil science and food quality. Each individual made significant contributions in defining a new type of soil. In contrast to classical soil science that observes soil properties in order to name and classify it, these three men looked at soil with a different goal—to craft it into a soil that produced therapeutic food fully capable of rebuilding human health. While others classified existing soils these three men created an optimum soil that I will refer to as mineralized soil.

Bread from Stones by Julius HenselBefore looking at the properties of mineralized soil it is important to acknowledge the supporting role of two other scientists. Both made significant contributions. The first is Julius Hensel. Hensel is widely considered as the father of the soil mineralization movement. His work in Germany in the mid-to-late 1800’s demonstrated the effectiveness of adding finely ground stonemeal as a soil amendment and fertilizer. His work has been recorded in his book Bread from Stones. This book deeply influenced the whole life-focus of Albert Carter Savage. Additionally, Hensel’s section on the benefits of stonemeal on plants became the foundation that Dr. Reams used to develop his concept of brix and nutrient density. The other individual who made significant contribution to the concept of mineralized soil was Dr. William Albrecht. Albrecht proved over and over the supremerole calcium played. His work influenced Albert Carter Savage and hehad regular interaction with Dr. Reams.

Instead of looking at the specific contributions of each of pioneer I want to examine their unified concept of optimum soil. Mineralized soil has a specific outcome—to produce nutrient-dense food and animal feed well endowed with trace elements. To achieve this requires a properly functioning soil. Mineralized soil has 4 basic areas that need to be addressed. To help group each area I have placed them on a diagram shaped like a baseball diamond. 1st base refers to Soil Energy, 2nd base to Foundational Minerals, 3rd base to Humus and Biology, and 4th base to Trace Elements.

The Four Bases of Soil Mineralization
Soil Energy

Soil energy refers to a soils ability to grow a crop and bring it to maturity. It also takes energy to digest limestone and other rock powders. Soil energy comes from the synchronization that occurs when various fertilizers come in contact with soil and/or other fertilizers. The energetic reaction that comes when fertilizers are applied to the soil can be measured with a conductivity meter and is read as micro Siemens/centimeter. Soil energy is greatly impacted be the amount and type of nitrogen in the soil. All soluble fertilizers will impact soil energy as will sodium, chloride, and other soluble trace minerals. It is interesting to note that while all three pioneers used organic products none of them renounced the use of selective commercial fertilizers. Why? Because it takes energy to grow a crop and break down rock powders and that is what fertilizers provide—concentrated energy. To create a mineralized soil requires a proper amount of foundational minerals that must be digested by soil biology and soil energy.

For all its problems, conventional agriculture does understand that it takes energy to grow a crop. For the most part conventional agriculture completely misses the importance of all the other bases and consequently does not grow quality food or animal feed. On the other hand many organic farmers suffer terribly in yield because their soil has inadequate energy. When plants are grown in low-energy soil they are not healthy. Rather they are low brix and susceptible to every passing insect and disease.

Typical products used to create soil energy are calcium nitrate, potassium nitrate, urea, ammonium sulfate, potassium sulfate, MAP, super phosphate, liquid fertilizers, and sea solids. For organics nothing beat high nitrogen fish and Chilean nitrate. Manures and compost will supply some soil energy as well.
Foundational Minerals

Foundational MineralsFoundational minerals refer primarily to adequate available calcium and phosphorous. While both calcium and phosphorous can be obtained in the form of commercial fertilizers, these fertilizers do not build a proper foundation to construct a mineralized soil. Very few soils are naturally endowed with adequate levels of foundational minerals. If the levels are insufficient then they must be supplied in the form of insoluble rock powders. These powders require both soil energy and soil biology to break down into an available form.

Specific soil amendments used to build the foundational minerals include limestone, soft rock phosphate, and gypsum. Sadly, conventional agriculture almost entirely misses the need for foundational minerals. Instead they are content with a pH over 6.5 and a minimal amount of available phosphorous. Due to their strong focus on humus, organic matter, and biology most organic farmers are woefully short of calcium and many times short of phosphorous. The exception to this is on small areas with extreme application rates of compost or manure.

Foundational minerals are the backbone of establishing a mineralized soil. Available calcium plays a decisive role in determining the quantity of yield produced. It also plays a tremendous role in the health and quantity of plant roots. When soil has at least 2,000 lbs. of available calcium roots, rootlets, and fine root hairs abound. These fine root hairs are continually growing and sloughing off into the soil. This base exchange of root hairs stimulates soil bacteria and builds humus in the soil.

Soil well supplied with available phosphorous allows greater uptake of phosphorous into the plant. When this happens it causes an increase in the cycling of energy and nutrients via ATP and the Krebs cycle. This results in a greater energy capture via photosynthesis and higher brix readings. It also does something else. As plants produce more sugars they increase the amount of sugars in the plant root exudates. This increase of plant sugars better feed the soil bacteria symbiotically associated with the plant roots. As bacteria are better fed they digest more minerals out of the soil and make it available to the plant. In summary foundational minerals build the optimum environment soil biology needs to flourish. Foundational minerals are the “pre-natal” nutrition needed by soil biology.
Humus and Biology

Humus and biology refers to the living, breathing aspect of soil. As soil biology proliferates they leave behind organic residues or metabolites. These residues increase the humus content of soil. As they decompose these organic compounds give off carbon dioxide which plants use to produce carbohydrates and the cycle starts all over. While conventional agriculture has all but ignored this most important aspect of mineralized soil, many organic farmers have hailed it as the ultimate panacea with nothing else needed – thank you. Both of these approaches are incomplete.

Humus and biologyProducts used to increase humus in soil include: cover crops, green manures, compost, fresh or aged manures, dry humates and many more. Products used to stimulate soil biology include: microbial inoculants, liquid humates, compost tea, molasses, sugar, bio stimulants, enzymes, and many other proprietary products. There are a myriad of approaches on how to stimulate soil biology and increase humus. Many people become so enamored with increasing soil humus and biology that they neglect 1st and 2nd base. This leads to a soil with a fabulous “feel-good factor” but completely unable to produce high-brix foods.

The approach taken by the early pioneers was to apply some organic material mostly in the form of manures and then inoculate and stimulate the biology from that point on. As humus and biology increase in a mineralized soil they impact soil energy. Soil biology will create some energy and the humus will regulate that energy and generally even out the extremes. This explains why fully mineralized soils need less energy inputs i.e. soluble fertilizers.
Trace Elements

The final aspect of a mineralized soil is the addition of a plentiful supply of trace elements. These include the more commonly recognized elements such as boron, copper, iron, manganese, and zinc and the rarer elements such as chromium, molybdenum, nickel, iodine, vanadium, lithium, selenium, cobalt and many others. Products used to supply these minerals include the sulfates and chelates of the more common elements, seaweed, sea minerals, and various rock powders for broad spectrum trace elements.

Like a game of baseball you cannot get to fourth base without first passing the earlier bases. Trace elements bound up in rock powders require soil energy (1st base) and microbial digestion (3rd base) to release them. They also require a plant to have a good level of calcium (2nd base) in the plant in order to pull up the heavy trace minerals. Low-brix plants (i.e. low-calcium plants) are notoriously low in trace elements whereas high brix plants provide an abundance of trace elements.

Trace elements from food are a major supplier of nutrition for our internal organs.

Foods today are severely deficient in trace elements. This is the same complaint that prompted all three pioneers to take action in the 1930’s. If it was so bad then how much worse is it now? Trace elements from food are a major supplier of nutrition for our internal organs. Additionally many metabolic pathways and enzymes are catalyzed or activated by trace elements. When the consumption of naturally chelated trace minerals from food declines, human health falters. Alleviating this is the ultimate goal of mineralized soil.

In summary the optimum food supply for people and animals should be grown on mineralized soil. This type of soil isn’t to be found—it is crafted. By giving soil proper stewardship and learning from the wisdom of generations past we hold within our hands the power to help the generations yet to come and our own.

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Now Fuzzys secret weapon is.... the Fun Gi :Namaste:

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Yup mycorrhizal fungi, this little fungus lives 'n' grows on your plant roots kind of a symbotic relationship maybe ? but if data is correct increase's your root mass by several 100% for greater nutrient uptake !

Known to be sensitive to high levels of of P - phosphorus which may kill fungi in extreme case's or hinder/stunt growth rate of fungi, none the less a period of a good few weeks shall be provided to enhance fungi cultivation with low nutrient feeding regime !

Thats an impressive fungi & one i would like to try out :thumb:




I don't claim this grow to be high brix by any means as i don't have any methods to test for such !

I'm just working on mineralized soil process with admendments on some ingredients which i could not source locally & other amendments !

This grow will also be supplemented with biobizz nutrients & home brew compost tea.
 
re: Blue Mystic Goes Volcanic & The Fun Gi

I'm trying new methods to increase rooting success of clones for this journal & sourced a propagation heating mat which sits under a standard propagator unit...


Here's the girls after 2 days since cuttings where taken.

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1. Smaller fan leafs where trimmed a tad to reduce transpiration rate aka loss of moisture from plant/clone.

2. Foliar feeding once a day with Biobizz alg-a-mic, cold pressed sea weed extract with trace macro, micro nutrients plus amino acids etc


So far so good & a hell of a lot better than my last attempts of cloning... heated propergator all the way :thumb:
 
If I hadn't just repped you for the encouragement on my grow Fuzzy I would definitely do it here. My brain hurts, I think I only managed to understand about 20% of it but I am as always amazed by your knowledge and experimentation. Be great to see how this compares to your last grow...

I've just had my delivery of Alg-a-mic and Top (Bloom?) because I really am loving the BioBizz bits and pieces. Of course the proof of the pudding will be in harvest. I followed your lead on this because I liked the simplicity of it all, plus with it being organic I know it won't have a lot of extra crap in there I am trying to get away from. So thank you very much for that too.

Will be watching as always!

Big fluffy hugs

:hug:
 
Once again thank you for you kind words fluffy & all the rep you have given me over the last few months :love:


Alg-a-mic is fine product from biobizz & you will not be disappointed with their nutrient range & the simplicity of organics 'n' soil is far easyer than having to deal with hydro.


Even tho i'm not a regular poster in journals, i do keep a watchful eye over new growers journals who have showed ol fuzzy kindness :thumb:


P.s Best keep biobizz nutrients in a cool place out off direct light, alg-a-mic may congeal a little bit but give a good shake & should be fine.
 
Time for a minor repotting session.


Its been 11 days since cuttings where taken & roots showed on one cutting about 2 days ago, the heated propagator mat is certainly helping a lot with increased humidity & a faster/improved rooting performance of cuttings !

Cuttings where foliar feed with alg-a-mic for the first few days or so... and adjusted to fish mix & alg-a-mic foliar feed up till now at a diluted solution rate (very mild)

I'm very impressed with this & will not being going back to my old barbaric ways of cloning...

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These new tender young girlies have had a minor sprinkle with rootgrow which is mycorrhizal & ectomycorrhizal fungi granules, this should improve plant vigour/root system etc which may have addittional benifits, we will see how this go's.

Transplanted into a small 1/4 litre pot for early root development/veg with a mix of sphagnum moss compost mixed with horticultarul grit (cheaper than perlite) for a duration of about one week.

I would imagine i'll transplant into final soil mix in a weeks time...

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Back in the heated propagator & shall commence folair feeding once a day intill repotting time with the addittional cuttings may find a new home & if not, onto the compost heap for recycling plant waste.

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The bad news is that my improved soil mix has had a major fungus nat infestation, this is more than likely due to addittional organic matter content aka farmyard manure... ho hum

Currently being treated with nilnat... all house hold plants including spider plant/yucca/basil will be treated promtly to stop spread of these beasties.

Note - The fungus nat fly is not harmful to the plant but the larvae is, which does attack the roots of new young tender plants which may kill them in serve case's & not to much of a problem on established plants tho.

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Once again thank you for you kind words fluffy & all the rep you have given me over the last few months :love:


Alg-a-mic is fine product from biobizz & you will not be disappointed with their nutrient range & the simplicity of organics 'n' soil is far easyer than having to deal with hydro.


Even tho i'm not a regular poster in journals, i do keep a watchful eye over new growers journals who have showed ol fuzzy kindness :thumb:


P.s Best keep biobizz nutrients in a cool place out off direct light, alg-a-mic may congeal a little bit but give a good shake & should be fine.

Well my darling my whole grow is pretty much Fuzzy inspired, I hadn't got a clue and got totally overwhelmed and I loved your calm, simple (in a good way) approach. I do like the idea of growing organically as much as I can, it just feels right for me.

As much as hydro fascinates me, and I almost went for it, I don't think I will ever do it in any significant way. I can see me experimenting with a Giga style mini single hydro pot thing, but there is something I like about getting my hands dirty with soil. I am most grateful to you for this!

Thank you again for the tips, I always keep my eyes open in your posts for any little BioBizz nuggets of information :)

You are always welcome with me whenever you are able to pop in, I'll have the kettle boiling and some choccie digestives ready.

I may not often understand what you are talking about, but I look forward to following this latest journal to see what happens. I am so glad you use pictures, Fluffy needs pictures for complicated stuff :bigblush:

See you soon

:peace:
 
Time for a minor repotting session


Its been 11 days since cuttings where taken & roots showed on one cutting about 2 days ago, the heated propagator mat is certainly helping a lot with increased humidity & a faster/improved rooting performance of cuttings !

Cuttings where foliar feed with alg-a-mic at first for a few days or so... and adjusted to fish mix & alg-a-mic foliar feed up till now at diluted solution rate (very mild)

I'm very impressed with this & will not being going back to my old barbaric ways of cloning...

0011039.JPG


These new tender young girlies have had a minor sprinkle with rootgrow which is mycorrhizal & ectomycorrhizal fungi granules & this should improve plant vigour/root system etc which may have addittional benifits, we will see how this go's.

0021055.JPG


Transplanted into a small 1/4 litre pot for early root development/veg with a mix of sphagnum moss compost mixed with horticultarul grit (cheaper than perlite) for a duration of about one week.

I would imagine i'll transplant into final soil mix in a weeks time...

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Back in the heated propagator & shall commence folair feeding once a day intill repotting time, the addittional cutting may find a new home & if not onto the compost heap for recycling plant waste.

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The bad news is that my improved soil mix has had a major fungus nat infestation, this is more than likely due to addittional organic matter content aka farmyard manure... ho hum

Currently being treated with nilnat... all house hold plants including spider plant/yucca/basil will be treated promtly to stop spread of these beasties.

Note - The fungus nat fly is not harmful to the plant but the larvae is, which does attack the roots of new young tender plants & may kill them & not to much of a problem on established plants tho.

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:thumb:
 
Well my darling my whole grow is pretty much Fuzzy inspired, I hadn't got a clue and got totally overwhelmed and I loved your calm, simple (in a good way) approach. I do like the idea of growing organically as much as I can, it just feels right for me.

I'm flattered that my humble grow has inspired you so much :love: & that my particular keep it simple growing aproach is easy on the eyes & that it flows like water... well hopefully :thumb:

As much as hydro fascinates me, and I almost went for it, I don't think I will ever do it in any significant way. I can see me experimenting with a Giga style mini single hydro pot thing, but there is something I like about getting my hands dirty with soil. I am most grateful to you for this!

Yup back in the early days i was almost persuaded by my loyal growing compain Fluffy Nug Lord of the Popcorn in hydro, Fuzzy compared lots of stuff 'n' info on both styles & decided on dirt/organics as i know what i'm dealing with being a gardener by trade... which i have NOT looked back on yet !

Even tho i have designed my own hydro system already, from house hold guttering but unfortunate i've not quite yet twigged onto a perpetual growing style with this system yet ?

with out having to have mother plants more lighting & complications beyond my keep it simple (kis) aproach :love:

Thank you again for the tips, I always keep my eyes open in your posts for any little BioBizz nuggets of information :)

Ya welcome, i'm still learning & hope any small amount of info proves to be benifical to you fluffy & all who may read.

You are always welcome with me whenever you are able to pop in, I'll have the kettle boiling and some choccie digestives ready.

Sounds good to me fluff & may take you up on a cup of tea :green_heart:

I may not often understand what you are talking about, but I look forward to following this latest journal to see what happens. I am so glad you use pictures, Fluffy needs pictures for complicated stuff :bigblush:

See you soon

:peace:

All part of the learning process my dear fluff :thumb:

With a small amount of home work always being a good idea when feeling inspired !


I'm constantly revising how i grow, at present i'm working on soil improvements & this takes a lot of time watching how things grow before i can make an educated decision on the matter at hand, part of this is due to an interest in high brix / mineralised soil plus some fungi...

& may be growing blue mystic for some time yet as its easyer to observe one strain under current conditions than many other strains due to limited space !


Plus i :love: Blue mystic its awesome !
 
Sneak preview - not related to volcanic rock dust grow & about 10 days after putting into DLR routine presentlly on 11/13 soon to be adjusted.

These girls where early LST'd than i would normally do to increase cola bearing branch's, not that it has increased branch mass due to my normal time frame but lateral branch form has increased beyond my normal methods this may be considored on par with a scrog method.

I firmly believe LSTing is the fundemental point of scrog grows, i simple use this method to increase bud bearing sites...

The girls have recently been staked to open up canopy to increase air flow & light penertration hopefully to increase yield !

With past grows of this strain i have suffered nutrient defeciencys from an early stage off from first week to second week, as assumed the plant may be nutrient intensive & have double nutrient requirements at start of flowreing to off set defeciencys.

Please bear in mind i am an organic nutrient grower & these nutrients require a bit of time to break down for the plants to use via microbes 'n' soil stuff beyond my mortal knowledge...

So far so good with nutrient def's being minor from past experience with current rate of biobizz nutrients at 4ml fish mix, 4ml alg-a-mic, 4mil bio bloom, 4mil of bio heaven and 1ml of top max per litre of water.

Yup i do use biobizz fish mix for bloom phase as i favour this over the bio grow nutrient for some reason... which i may add if asked about ?

Anyway here's the girls after staking to improve light 'n' air flow :thumb:

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Fuzzys new forest of wonders...

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P.s i did trim a drying bush prior to drying time which has taken some extra time than normal due to lower ambient temps increasing time of drying of last grow...

It reached a mighty 56g for one plant... thats 2 oz under a 400w dual spectrum hps & improved soil grow :high-five:

I might be ABLE to contribute an odd gram to moisture content tho... but none the less that plant has beaten my old personal best of 47g from last grow of best plant !
 
One week since clones/cuttings where potted up into 1/4l pots for early root development, 16/8 light regime for veg under 125w 6500k CFL.

Includes a small dosage of mycorrhizia fungi in compost suitable for cuttings & foliar feed every couple of days with 2ml alg-a-mic & 1ml of fish mix per litre of water of biobizz nutrients.

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On average 3 inchs tall.

Slight increase in plant developement.

Expect to pot up into 6l air pots & improved growing medium in a weeks time !
 
hi fuzz are you going to do a scrog or a scrog like grow with Lst?
I have seen your posts and I do believe you got you head screwed on proper. so I will be checking in from time to time to see how you are doing(wich will be well) from the stuff that I have read from you before.
I too am doing my second scrog and things are going very well.
so good luck boss:)
 
My main aim is LST to a scrog type grow with out the all the wire/string mesh as i don't think its always needed if trained well via LST !

The whole mesh grid involved with scrog makes plants stationary, i like to get in their every week & move plants around, routine dead leaf removely etc all depends of size of growing area 'n' whether routine tasks are easy to reach...

Also scrog can make the canopy dense lowering air flow & increasing humidity around canopy which may lead to powdery mildew problems if poor air circulation/ventilation is present !


A majority of the my plant training is based on LST in veg & prefer a later to close to flowering time or just in flowering to stake the main cola bearing branches for support & to open up the canopy of plant to allow for air flow/greater light penertration.



Currently, even tho i'm growing the same strain is to monitor effects of LST training which has either been performed early veg to mid veg for different results & compare some experimental soil admendments for plant health to total yield !

So that i can compare results from past grows of blue mystic :thumb:


This in theory should give myself better knowledge for future grows :high-five:
 
I do agree how the plants can get all bunched and the air flow, I also have some mixed emotions about scrogging.
but I will say that my current grow(scrog) looks darn good. and I exspect to get a couple jars full:)
 
Quick clone update...

Aprox 4 weeks old, 2 weeks being time taken for clones to sprout roots & another 2 weeks once potted up into 1/4l pots for early root developement.


The mycorrhizal fungi is certainly proving vigorous growth can be achieved !

Over the last week the plants where feed 2ml alg-a-mic & 1ml of fish mix per litre of water & some 3 inches of growth have occured since feeding began with the girls standing at a mighty 6 inches.


All is going a bit better than expected :thumb:

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Note upon mycorrhizal fungi - prefers slow release organic nutrients for best results, with a high value P-phosphorus ferts/nutrients being problematic stunting fungi growth & in serve case's death of fungi.

Once applyed to roots, its best to develope fungi over a peroid of a few weeks with no nutrients applyed or a low feeding regime at best after a week or so !


Current plan is to pot up to larger pot size into prepared soil mix which has been standing for aprox 6 weeks now & leave freshly planted clones for one week for root developement into new soil mix - no plans on feeding after potting up.


Growth shall be monitored closely over next week or 2 before a low nutrient feeding regime shall commence & more likely fish mix / alg-a-mic shall be used once again.
 
On with the potting up :thumb:

Terminology

Potting up - potting plant up into a larger pot.

Repotting - Basically placing the same plant back into same pot ! the first couple of inches of soil removed from surface of pot & a couple of inches removed from bottom of pot... even if you have to cut through root system with a knife, with removed compost replaced with new compost.


I suffered with a major fungus nat problem with new 'n' improved soil mix... this was treated twice with natlin over the last few weeks.

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Contains extremely small cyrstals which larvae of nat ingests causing the crystal to expand & rupturing nat larvaes stomach... hence death of nat :cheer:


Most soil admendments require you to add prior to planting a few weeks ahead of schedule, this so that it can begin to break down & not prove to hot for young plants to handle which may result in burn symptoms !

Current mix has been standing pre mixed for some 6 weeks aprox & has remain moist prior to potting up.


The girls after 2 weeks off root developement in 1/4l pots & spagnum peat compost/ horticultural grit mix unmodified PH, currently presumed acidic due to peat Ph value... not really a problem as plants remain in it for only a short while :thumb:

Mycorrhizal granules where added to base of planting hole & some smeared around sides prior to planting.

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A light watering followed shortly, tap water left to stand for 24 hours to clear chlorine etc, shall water every few days lightly with it intill expected root expansion takes place in a week or 2.

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Looking fowards to results of new soil mix & mycorrhizal fungi :love:
 
I do so love your journals Fuzzy, I still learn so much from them :thumb:

I like to include some extra lil bit of info in my journals, keeps things interesting & i'm still learning new tricks myself :thumb:
 
I like to include some extra lil bit of info in my journals, keeps things interesting & i'm still learning new tricks myself

I so rely on the tricks you impart.... :) :thanks:
 
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