Boron deficiency?
- Thread starter Dreadedknot
- Start date
AdaminCO
Well-Known Member
These are the two charts I use.
You’re going to need to provide a bit more information for proper help though.
It seems like potassium, magnesium deficiency.
You’re going to need to provide a bit more information for proper help though.
It seems like potassium, magnesium deficiency.
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Dreadedknot
Active Member
Blueberry Amnesia Auto x2
FFOF soil
5 gal pot
300w led
FF Dirty Dozen nutes
Rh 50%
Temp 75°F
In flower, Day 41
Spots showed up Sunday, flushedTuesday, fed them yesterday.
FFOF soil
5 gal pot
300w led
FF Dirty Dozen nutes
Rh 50%
Temp 75°F
In flower, Day 41
Spots showed up Sunday, flushedTuesday, fed them yesterday.
AdaminCO
Well-Known Member
Water type, PH?
- Thread starter
- #5
Dreadedknot
Active Member
These are the two charts I use.
You’re going to need to provide a bit more information for proper help though.
It seems like potassium, magnesium deficiency.
How to Ask for Grow Support
It is VERY hard to help diagnose plant problems if we don't have all the required information. EXTREMELY IMPORTANT The ONLY way to receive optimal feedback and support is to provide photos! Photo Gallery Guide - How to Resize, Upload & Post Photos REQUIRED READING FOR ALL NEW GROWERS! How to...www.420magazine.com
Awesome charts, thanks!
Lol, I was getting that info typed in, I'm a hunt-n-pecker, lol.
AdaminCO
Well-Known Member
Looks like it’d be hard to lock Boron if you look at the PH chart.
Are you following the nute schedule FF gives you? Full strength?
AdaminCO
Well-Known Member
I bought the FF line, but ended up alternating between compost teas and seaweed extract instead.
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- #8
Dreadedknot
Active Member
Tap water that has sat for a few days, ph'd to 6.5ish, or shows up yellow with my reagent. That stoopid blue pen isnt working well
PH down to 6.3 with Fox Farms it will allow your plants to take up the calcium she needs.
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- #10
Dreadedknot
Active Member
Soooo, admission of error. I skipped week 4 of the schedule because the schedule is for a longer cycle than my auto and I already had pistels at that time. I also royally misunderstood the flower kiss and was adding it to my nutes instead of foliar spraying (dont ask me how I f'd that up). In my thinking/doing too much I added a bit of the bembe too early. When the spots showed up I dumped those nutes and did a fresh batch exactly as the schedule said. No more liberties like that from me until I get a better handle on what I'm doing.
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- #11
Dreadedknot
Active Member
Lemme ask this....
I've been mixing my nutes a gallon at a time. When I go to feed I do ph'd water until I get some run off. I then feed 1/4 gal to each plant. The remaining 1/2gal I save for the second feeding 2aw days later. Is this a viable method?
I've been mixing my nutes a gallon at a time. When I go to feed I do ph'd water until I get some run off. I then feed 1/4 gal to each plant. The remaining 1/2gal I save for the second feeding 2aw days later. Is this a viable method?
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- #12
Dreadedknot
Active Member
2aw, wtf, 2-3 days...
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- #13
Dreadedknot
Active Member
I'll give that a try next feed. Thanks!
AdaminCO
Well-Known Member
Your PH most likely rises during those 2 days, so do you check again.
I’d recommend getting a better PH pen. FF has a good buffer in the soil, but I still like to be precise @6.2.
If you haven’t read it yet @Emilya has a good process for watering. It’s in my signature, and is definitely worth reading.
If you are using strong LEDs you may need extra cal-mag regardless.
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
if its working for you, its viable. Is it the best way to do this? No. Also, if you are watering before the container has been totally emptied of the previous watering, you are watering too often.
So I am curious about the pH of the feed... are you pH adjusting that too, or are you thinking that pH adjusting the water before hand is plenty? And then, 2 days later you are feeding again, with stale, settled out and pH shifted nutrient water... this can't be best.
The way it is supposed to work is you guess how much fluid the plants can take in a complete and thorough soaking and you mix up the nutes into this water. It is only then that you pH adjust it to the appropriate level for your medium, if soil, 6.3pH. You then apply that water/nutes to the soil, watering to runoff, coming back again an hour later and topping it off again. In this way you assure that you have totally saturated the soil.
Then, in veg, you wait for the plant to use ALL of that water... 5 days, 3 days... whatever your root system is able to achieve, and you wait until ALL of the water has been used up and the container is as light as a container of dry soil would be. Then, water this next time with just plain pH adjusted water, again at 6.3 pH and again totally saturating the soil to the point of runoff. The reason we water once with nutes and the next time with properly adjusted water is that on that first pass with the nutes, the plant did not use them all. When you water the next time with water at the correct pH to allow those nutes to again become mobile, it is like a second chance at the feeding trough for the plants... all the leftover nutes become available to the plant once again.
After this second pass, most of the nutes are then used up and it is time to repeat the process, once again giving nutes.
You are not monitoring the wet/dry cycle nor watering correctly if you are thinking for the plant and telling it how much water you are going to give with your arbitrary 1/4 gal and 1/2 gal applications, as well as you forcing the plants into a 2 day watering cycle when that probably isnt the cycle the plants are trying to use.
Please read my work on how to properly water. It should help things out quite a bit.
AdaminCO
Well-Known Member
Well stated. What’s different in your process during flower?
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- #18
Dreadedknot
Active Member
I am adjusting the ph of the nute solution, after all nutes are mixed. I haven't checked them after they sat, that's a learning there, I figured itd be the same (d@mn it Jim, I'm a stoner not a chemist).
When they were in veg I did wait until dry and leaves drooped a bit.
I had read somewhere on here that during flower not to let them go all the way dry, so I've been waiting until my moisture meter shows dry down to like the last 2 inches of the pot. That's when I water and/or feed.
I have read your sticky on proper watering and have been doing the outside in method, flushing that fine sludge into the rootball. I treat it like sand zen garden.
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- #19
Dreadedknot
Active Member
So, what are these spots and how do o correct?
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
It sounds like you are watering correctly and you are correct that in flower you really don't want to go quite as dry as you do in veg, at least after stretch is finished. At that point the rapid development of the roots and the rapid growth at the top are finished, and the plant settles into the business of building buds. At this point it is time to start using those roots you developed in veg, to see just how much water you can get the plant to uptake from here on out. You goal is to establish a quicker water cycle, optimally watering every day, or if that is to labor intensive, every other day or at the most a 3 day watering cycle.
The way you flip to this new mode of watering is easy since you probably have a good idea by now how much water it takes to totally saturate the rootball and achieve runoff. Divide that number by how many days interval you have established by then and figure out what your daily water use is. Start watering with this much water, every day, or whatever interval you have decided on, and carefully note whether it takes more or less water than you figured to achieve runoff. The next day, if it takes less water to achieve runoff, you are giving too much, and try to find that magic amount that gets you to runoff each day, while still allowing the container to go mostly moist. You don't want a lot of water weight in there between waterings and you certainly don't want to get to a point where you are waterlogging the plant... but try really hard to figure out what that plant is using each day. If it takes more to achieve runoff than you figured and the plant is going dry between each watering, you are doing good... and just try to keep up with it. Once flowering starts you want to continue giving water/nutes, alternating with each watering, but now instead of only being able to give nutes once or twice a week, you are able to do it 4 or more. More nutes, more water, equals bigger plants.
The spots look like nothing more than a very common calcium deficiency starting up. Add calmag to your nutes and if you are already giving calmag, increase the dosage.
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