Can I use this insecticide during flowering? Need suggestion

I used and would recommend Azamax to get rid of spider mites during flower. 2 or 3 weeks of treatment and a dozen lady bugs later the mites were gone. Also, it is important to wash your buds if you use any spray on them. Without a wash, you may get a bad taste if there is residue left on the buds.
 
NO DO NOT PUT TOXIC CHEMICALS ON YOUR WEED!!!!!!!! go to your nearest health food store and buy a bottle of. dr,bronners 18 in1 hemp pure castille peppermint soap, follow directions for bugs on plants,,it is natural no harsh chemicals does not affect the plant,kills all bugs first application ,,recomend 3 applications 3 days apart for bad infestations,,NO TOXIC CHEMICALS,also works on head lice and bedbugs,best shit out there
 
Azamax has been found to have Talstar in it, as well as pyrethrins. Oregon just stopped all use in state after it popped positive for these non-allowed ingredients not listed on the label. Beware. You do NOT want Azamax with Talstar (active ingredient Bifenthrin) or Talstar on your plants or in you, and it is not rated for use on any types of food or smokable crops.

There is a far better solution for spider mites late in bloom. This works. Very effective. 1 cup of 3% hydrogen peroxide and 1 cup granulated sugar in a gallon of water. Add an ag soap spreader to make it spread better and even more effective. Yes, that's it. Both H2O2 and sugar at that concentration are toxic to bugs, and the plants love it. I used it last year and it works. I have turned many people onto this recipe and they say it works and their plants love it. Non toxic. It is also organic, but I do not grow organic and that is not the reason that I use it. I use it because it is 1) super cheap 2) it works 3) it is non-toxic. If the sugar bothers you, you can rinse your buds when you harvest them. The plant will absorb the sugar and the brix will go up. Note: this spray will kill all stages of mites and crawlers on contact, but it will NOT kill mite eggs w/o the ag soap added. So you need to repeat the spray several times every 3-5 days to kill any emerging mites.

I also use refined Neem oil (70%) which is called different things by different companies for mites and mite eggs. Refied neem oil has all the azadirachtin removed. I spray it early in the bloom cycle and in the veg cycle to keep the mites away. It will kill all stages of mites and kill the eggs on contact. Neen is non-toxic as long as you do not drink the stuff straight. Even a guy that drank Neem oil straight thinking it was salad oil lived. Neem and the H2O2 + sugar spray are contact sprays, so you have to saturate the entire plant with them. Soak 'em good.

Good luck Mr Phelps. This email will self destruct in 30 seconds...
 
Azamax has been found to have Talstar in it, as well as pyrethrins. Oregon just stopped all use in state after it popped positive for these non-allowed ingredients not listed on the label. Beware. You do NOT want Azamax with Talstar (active ingredient Bifenthrin) or Talstar on your plants or in you, and it is not rated for use on any types of food or smokable crops.

There is a far better solution for spider mites late in bloom. This works. Very effective. 1 cup of 3% hydrogen peroxide and 1 cup granulated sugar in a gallon of water. Add an ag soap spreader to make it spread better and even more effective. Yes, that's it. Both H2O2 and sugar at that concentration are toxic to bugs, and the plants love it. I used it last year and it works. I have turned many people onto this recipe and they say it works and their plants love it. Non toxic. It is also organic, but I do not grow organic and that is not the reason that I use it. I use it because it is 1) super cheap 2) it works 3) it is non-toxic. If the sugar bothers you, you can rinse your buds when you harvest them. The plant will absorb the sugar and the brix will go up. Note: this spray will kill all stages of mites and crawlers on contact, but it will NOT kill mite eggs w/o the ag soap added. So you need to repeat the spray several times every 3-5 days to kill any emerging mites.

I also use refined Neem oil (70%) which is called different things by different companies for mites and mite eggs. Refied neem oil has all the azadirachtin removed. I spray it early in the bloom cycle and in the veg cycle to keep the mites away. It will kill all stages of mites and kill the eggs on contact. Neen is non-toxic as long as you do not drink the stuff straight. Even a guy that drank Neem oil straight thinking it was salad oil lived. Neem and the H2O2 + sugar spray are contact sprays, so you have to saturate the entire plant with them. Soak 'em good.

Good luck Mr Phelps. This email will self destruct in 30 seconds...
hey what is AG soap?

ever tried sulfur for mites? i heard it's pretty effective too
 
It’s an old thread from 2018, don’t recognize any user names so those folks have prolly moved on.

ag soap is agricultural soap or horticulture soap. Sulfur is an inexpensive element, it is a miticide and prevents pm, say so right on the package label. Most any brand name is good cuz it’s just sulfur but you want wettable or micronized sulfur, just means it is very finely ground to prevent clumping and it dissolves well for foliar use. Most use in it veg and try to avoid it in flower, it can impart a bad taste on your buds cuz it smells - wait for it.....

it smells just like sulfur :laugh:

Bud washing is your friend.... but sulfur and oils do not mix (Neem oil, mineral oil, oil dormant spray etc) when used in tandem they can cause burning / leaf damage / necrosis so discontine any oil based foliar products 2 weeks prior to the sulfur application
 
Azamax has been found to have Talstar in it, as well as pyrethrins. Oregon just stopped all use in state after it popped positive for these non-allowed ingredients not listed on the label. Beware. You do NOT want Azamax with Talstar (active ingredient Bifenthrin) or Talstar on your plants or in you, and it is not rated for use on any types of food or smokable crops.

There is a far better solution for spider mites late in bloom. This works. Very effective. 1 cup of 3% hydrogen peroxide and 1 cup granulated sugar in a gallon of water. Add an ag soap spreader to make it spread better and even more effective. Yes, that's it. Both H2O2 and sugar at that concentration are toxic to bugs, and the plants love it. I used it last year and it works. I have turned many people onto this recipe and they say it works and their plants love it. Non toxic. It is also organic, but I do not grow organic and that is not the reason that I use it. I use it because it is 1) super cheap 2) it works 3) it is non-toxic. If the sugar bothers you, you can rinse your buds when you harvest them. The plant will absorb the sugar and the brix will go up. Note: this spray will kill all stages of mites and crawlers on contact, but it will NOT kill mite eggs w/o the ag soap added. So you need to repeat the spray several times every 3-5 days to kill any emerging mites.

I also use refined Neem oil (70%) which is called different things by different companies for mites and mite eggs. Refied neem oil has all the azadirachtin removed. I spray it early in the bloom cycle and in the veg cycle to keep the mites away. It will kill all stages of mites and kill the eggs on contact. Neen is non-toxic as long as you do not drink the stuff straight. Even a guy that drank Neem oil straight thinking it was salad oil lived. Neem and the H2O2 + sugar spray are contact sprays, so you have to saturate the entire plant with them. Soak 'em good.

Good luck Mr Phelps. This email will self destruct in 30 seconds...
I'd like to try this. What is an AG soap spreader??
With the Neem, spray it straight or dilute?
 
I'd like to try this. What is an AG soap spreader??
With the Neem, spray it straight or dilute?
Ah, the problem when some people talk in code.;) I go along with @013 that the original poster means an agricultural grade soap. Some bar soaps can also be used. One of them is Dove, if I remember right. Shave a bit off the bar and put the shavings in a bowl with a bit of water until they dissolve.

Their use of the word 'spreader' probably means something that is being used as an emulsifier. The 'spreader' would keep the mixture from clumping up.

If using Neem, mix it according to the directions on the bottle. Oil and water do not mix so don't forget the couple of drops of an agricultural grade soap.
 
any one know anything about a spray that is mixed by the quart 2 tbsp tea tree castile soap 2 tbsp peppermint castile soap 1/2 tbsp peroxide and 2 tbsp iso 70% im late flowering and have a few mites.. dont know if i should or not
 
Never heard of that particular brew but I don’t see using both peroxide & iso at same time for foliar applications. Our sponsor SNS makes an array of pest management products beyond that Safers Soap.

as always - read & understand products labels

at a certain point in late flower pests get glued in….

welcome aboard Scottie…!!!
 
any one know anything about a spray that is mixed by the quart 2 tbsp tea tree castile soap 2 tbsp peppermint castile soap 1/2 tbsp peroxide and 2 tbsp iso 70% im late flowering and have a few mites.. dont know if i should or not
Where did you come across this? Like @013 mentions read and understand labels and in this case read up some research.

There does not seem to be any problem with mixing the two but there is a recommended order in which they are added to the water for best effect. Plus the amounts of H2O2 and the Isopropyl seem rather weak in the recipe you mention.

If you are late in flowering my recommendation is to spend several dollars on the small bottle of something like Nuke 'Em from the Flying Skull company. It might be cheaper than buying up tiny bottles of peppermint oil and a container of the soap. I have used the Nuke 'Em in flowering without any visible signs of damage to the buds, pistils, trichomes or leaves.
 
Never heard of that particular brew but I don’t see using both peroxide & iso at same time for foliar applications. Our sponsor SNS makes an array of pest management products beyond that Safers Soap.

as always - read & understand products labels

at a certain point in late flower pests get glued in….

welcome aboard Scottie…!!!
Thank you @013 Luqui-dirt had a video on youtube about the brew but i've heard tea tree can be bad.. I had spider mites last year in flower and they stunted my crop like crazy never got webs tried predatory mites and lady bugs to no avail. So after i cleaned my whole grow space with bleach.. Thought i was good and I fucking got them bastards again late in flower i hate then nasty buggers
 
Thank you @013 Luqui-dirt had a video on youtube about the brew but i've heard tea tree can be bad.. I had spider mites last year in flower and they stunted my crop like crazy never got webs tried predatory mites and lady bugs to no avail. So after i cleaned my whole grow space with bleach.. Thought i was good and I fucking got them bastards again late in flower i hate then nasty buggers
@
Thank you @013 and @SmokingWings Luqui-dirt had a video on youtube about the brew but i've heard tea tree can be bad.. I had spider mites last year in flower and they stunted my crop like crazy never got webs tried predatory mites and lady bugs to no avail. So after i cleaned my whole grow space with bleach.. Thought i was good and I fucking got them bastards again late in flower i hate then nasty buggers
 
Thought i was good and I fucking got them bastards again late in flower i hate then nasty buggers

You probably did, and simply carried a fresh batch in. They're notorious hitchhikers. At least they're relatively easy to see. Russet mites can come in on seeds.

Just one more reason why pets and guests should never be allowed into one's indoor garden space - and why the gardener shouldn't visit it soon after having been outside. Changing one's clothes immediately prior to entering doesn't hurt (although some consider that to be paranoia).
 
You probably did, and simply carried a fresh batch in. They're notorious hitchhikers. At least they're relatively easy to see. Russet mites can come in on seeds.

Just one more reason why pets and guests should never be allowed into one's indoor garden space - and why the gardener shouldn't visit it soon after having been outside. Changing one's clothes immediately prior to entering doesn't hurt (although some consider that to be paranoia).
My grow space is in a shed in my yard so I have to walk through grass to get to it. I had none when i was inside but lost space due to little chitlins. Was thinking about getting a sticky door mat so when i walk in anything on my shoes gets stuck. My shed is in a horrible spot lol damn it
 
You know... most youngsters would leap at the chance to live in their very own clubhouse instead of being stuck in the house with boring old mom and dad.

:rofl:
 
Back
Top Bottom