Citizen 90CRI - 3000K COB

Thread starter #1
I am currently using a King Plus 1000w Double Chip LED Grow Light Full Spectrum.
I have a 4x4x8 grow tent that I am currently using to grow vegetables and 1 Blue Blood in.
I am wanting to build 4 COB led lights with a limited budget and I am a new to COB leds. The cobs will be used both in veg and flowering. These are the parts that I am thinking about:

4 x Citizen CLU048-1818 90CRI - 3000K gen 6 - $96.00
4 x Ideal holder for Citizen CLU048 series and Luminus CXM22 - $14.00
4 x 133mm Passive Pin-fin heatsink (for CLU048/CXM22/Vero 29) - black - $76.00
4 x LEDiL Angelina reflector for CREE CXB and Citizen CLU048 using Ideal holders - $22.00
I was thinking the MeanWell HLG-320H-54B Driver @ - $110.00 would possibly be good.

The Citizen COB product sheet stated "CLU-1818 Voltage: Min. 47.8 Typ. 52.0 Max 56.2."
47.8 v * 1.4 a = 66.92 watts each * 4 = 267.68 total watts
52 v * 1.4 a = 72.8 watts each * 4 = 291.2 total watts
56.2 v * 1.4 a = 78.68 watts each * 4 = 314.72 total watts

Should we get driver be able to handle the maximum constant current? The MeanWell HLG-320H-54B Driver max constant current is 54 V.
The 54B is also greater than 314 watts the maximum total watts if it was able to use the max 56.2 volts.

The 54B would allow me to daisy chain the 4 COBs which i was planning on doing.
I was wanting to be able to go close to the plants when they are dimmed and be able to raise them to cover more area.

This set up would cost me $361.94 (shipping included) but not including a frame or the 100k Potentiometer.
Should I just get 1 COB ($201.11 total with shipping) with the stated driver which would allow me to upgrade to 4 in the future?
I have enough money to get 1 COB at $201.11 or should I just wait till I have enough money to get all of the 4 COBs $362.
Individual frames for each light or one frame even though it has only a single light if I get only 1 COB right now?

Edit: I will be trying the set up without the reflectors before I install them onto the COBS.
Citizen CLU048-1212 90CRI GEN5 - 3000K x 4 would save me $120 for the COBs \ lower driver.
I am still researching what the 1818s advantages over the 1212 are.

Looks like they are the same just 1818 is priced more.
I have decided to go with Citizen CLU048-1212 90CRI GEN5 - 3000K - $36.00
MeanWell HLG-185H-C1400B Driver (Constant Current) - $54.00
For a total of $241.94 (not including a frame or the 100k Potentiometer)
 

Bonsaiweed

Member of the Month: May 2018
I am currently using a King Plus 1000w Double Chip LED Grow Light Full Spectrum.
I have a 4x4x8 grow tent that I am currently using to grow vegetables and 1 Blue Blood in.
I am wanting to build 4 COB led lights with a limited budget and I am a new to COB leds. The cobs will be used both in veg and flowering. These are the parts that I am thinking about:

4 x Citizen CLU048-1818 90CRI - 3000K gen 6 - $96.00
4 x Ideal holder for Citizen CLU048 series and Luminus CXM22 - $14.00
4 x 133mm Passive Pin-fin heatsink (for CLU048/CXM22/Vero 29) - black - $76.00
4 x LEDiL Angelina reflector for CREE CXB and Citizen CLU048 using Ideal holders - $22.00
I was thinking the MeanWell HLG-320H-54B Driver @ - $110.00 would possibly be good.

The Citizen COB product sheet stated "CLU-1818 Voltage: Min. 47.8 Typ. 52.0 Max 56.2."
47.8 v * 1.4 a = 66.92 watts each * 4 = 267.68 total watts
52 v * 1.4 a = 72.8 watts each * 4 = 291.2 total watts
56.2 v * 1.4 a = 78.68 watts each * 4 = 314.72 total watts

Should we get driver be able to handle the maximum constant current? The MeanWell HLG-320H-54B Driver max constant current is 54 V.
The 54B is also greater than 314 watts the maximum total watts if it was able to use the max 56.2 volts.

The 54B would allow me to daisy chain the 4 COBs which i was planning on doing.
I was wanting to be able to go close to the plants when they are dimmed and be able to raise them to cover more area.

This set up would cost me $361.94 (shipping included) but not including a frame or the 100k Potentiometer.
Should I just get 1 COB ($201.11 total with shipping) with the stated driver which would allow me to upgrade to 4 in the future?
I have enough money to get 1 COB at $201.11 or should I just wait till I have enough money to get all of the 4 COBs $362.
Individual frames for each light or one frame even though it has only a single light if I get only 1 COB right now?

Edit: I will be trying the set up without the reflectors before I install them onto the COBS.
Citizen CLU048-1212 90CRI GEN5 - 3000K x 4 would save me $120 for the COBs \ lower driver.
I am still researching what the 1818s advantages over the 1212 are.

Looks like they are the same just 1818 is priced more.
I have decided to go with Citizen CLU048-1212 90CRI GEN5 - 3000K - $36.00
MeanWell HLG-185H-C1400B Driver (Constant Current) - $54.00
For a total of $241.94 (not including a frame or the 100k Potentiometer)
Also provision for either a kill-a-watt meter or some other way to know your wattage being used.

It's never a good idea to drive an LED at its maximum for a long time. Better to turn it down some, and move it closer. Heat is a LED killer, keep the heat sinks where you can hold your hand on them, and not cringe. Put a fan blowing on them if you must. Just a heads up from a techie guy.
 

bluter

Active Member
new here but some experience in cob / led tech.

imo the 1818's are too big for the application. 50 volt cobs will create a fair bit of heat for the light produced. you will likely have to also run them way lower to avoid light burn on the plants. it's a serious problem with high power cobs. you won't get the full advantage a 50v cob can provide but you will be paying for it.

the 1212's will probably produce more than enough light with the bounce a tent will give in that space. with far less heat. i think they use 35 - 36 volt or there abouts. the key to any cob / led setup is balancing light / heat produced, and managing that for efficiency. actually that is job 2 after quality of light / binning etc..

also i build my rigs on constant current and not constant voltage. i just find it's more stable. have done both tho, and the voltage consumption is still part of the equation.

for the record i like the citizen product and can recommend their chips. there are other chips out there as well that would be more efficient than the 1818's. i'm super behind on my tech tho and need to get specs on the newer gen's available.
 

kelticBlue

Creme de la Creme Photos: Dec 2016, Apr 2017 - Photo of the Month: May 2018
. . . . Just a heads up from a techie guy.
You Rock Thank you!:55:



new here but some experience in cob / led tech.

imo the 1818's are too big for the application. 50 volt cobs will create a fair bit of heat for the light produced. you will likely have to also run them way lower to avoid light burn on the plants. it's a serious problem with high power cobs. you won't get the full advantage a 50v cob can provide but you will be paying for it.

the 1212's will probably produce more than enough light with the bounce a tent will give in that space. with far less heat. i think they use 35 - 36 volt or there abouts. the key to any cob / led setup is balancing light / heat produced, and managing that for efficiency. actually that is job 2 after quality of light / binning etc..

also i build my rigs on constant current and not constant voltage. i just find it's more stable. have done both tho, and the voltage consumption is still part of the equation.

for the record i like the citizen product and can recommend their chips. there are other chips out there as well that would be more efficient than the 1818's. i'm super behind on my tech tho and need to get specs on the newer gen's available.

:welcome:bluter!

If ya do any build take a couple of picture and or share some ideas. I built a Timber grow light kit. Mostly cause I like to do it meself and then because it was straight forward and all the thinking was done for me. Only thing left was physical labor which I am good with, not so much good with the thinking and planning.
Cheers
 

bluter

Active Member
If ya do any build take a couple of picture and or share some ideas. I built a Timber grow light kit.
without ripping anyone off i'd say pretty much follow the timber recipe. i've seen a couple of their kits online and they generally source good quality. i agree with the passive cooling approach as well. efficiencies drop dramatically when forced cooling becomes required for cob / led tech.

i build my rigs from scratch and there are a couple things i do different, but the timber stuff is solid.


am gonna be building a custom setup for my space and will show that as well as some stock stuff i build. i come at this from a different angle so i may tick off a couple trained techies lol ... er sorry in advance.. :Namaste:


- nice to see that lol. i get teased for using that phrase in real life.

cheers - bluter

:peace: