Core & Coil Ballast For CMH 315 Watt

[Curbcalamity]

I don't plan on running a CMH in a cool tube, but can't see why one couldn't. What makes the CMH bulb so susceptible that the outer jacket would crack/shatter. Can't see the construction of the bulb any different then the plethora of MH/HPS bulbs that are used extensively in commercial and hobby grows in cooled tubes. I suppose there may be a issue if the hot bulb was hit by a ice cold stream of refrigerated air.



Interesting about the UV exposure limits. I assume this is report is specifying a properly functioning undamaged bulb?. I know plastics generally have UV inhibitors but wonder what the constant exposure would do to the interior plastic /mylar parts of a tent let alone any of the electrical wires over time?

this is statistics based ion unprotected eye if you don't wear sunglasses, serves you right {I also grew up with a constant UV index of around 12-15 so I guess maybe I see ti definately}

the cool tubers, honestly, where I come from and the ambient air temp is as high as 50C its not such an issues. somewhere like BC winter different story. open rated bulbs can go in the tubes but your better of getting a vertical reflector that has a duct.

 

[Curbcalamity]

I don't plan on running a CMH in a cool tube, but can't see why one couldn't. What makes the CMH bulb so susceptible that the outer jacket would crack/shatter. Can't see the construction of the bulb any different then the plethora of MH/HPS bulbs that are used extensively in commercial and hobby grows in cooled tubes. I suppose there may be a issue if the hot bulb was hit by a ice cold stream of refrigerated air.
Interesting about the UV exposure limits. I assume this is report is specifying a properly functioning undamaged bulb?. I know plastics generally have UV inhibitors but wonder what the constant exposure would do to the interior plastic /mylar parts of a tent let alone

yes, trust me they're supposed to have UV that's why I use them. you can put an open fixture rated cmh into a cool tube as a hps is an open fixture rated globe, nut sure what part of don't do it with an unjacketed bulb {HPS globes never ever reach the same t3emps that a cmh does is what the issue is}
you realize the studies into what UV does to plants photosynthesis and metabolism are not understood.....

 

[Curbcalamity]

I don't plan on running a CMH in a cool tube, but can't see why one couldn't. What makes the CMH bulb so susceptible that the outer jacket would crack/shatter. - the anwer is the extra thousands of degrees the ceram ic arc tube is glowing at to become conductive and give the spectrim., hps isnt even near that close,

but if it has an outer acket. its an open fixture rated bulb and can do what you like with it

 

[Curbcalamity]

Does anyone know of the mfg part number for a ballast for a 315W CMH. I am looking to source NOT a electronic/digital ballast but a old school magnetic coil and core. Perhaps they just don't make something like that for CMH bulbs?. Can't seem to find anything on the Advance or Philips catalogue.

On another note has anyone run a 315W CMH on a regular 400watt MH ballast, not speaking of the conversion bulbs, but a actual 315watt CMH? Some posts seem to suggest it could be done, but not sure if that is going to overdrive the bulb to failure or perhaps the bulb itself self-regulates the current draw.

JUST SAW THIS I have the ability to film whtt will happen. dot don't blame me when little eric jumps off the terrace

 

[Inky66]

I don't plan on running a CMH in a cool tube, but can't see why one couldn't. What makes the CMH bulb so susceptible that the outer jacket would crack/shatter. Can't see the construction of the bulb any different then the plethora of MH/HPS bulbs that are used extensively in commercial and hobby grows in cooled tubes. I suppose there may be a issue if the hot bulb was hit by a ice cold stream of refrigerated air.



Interesting about the UV exposure limits. I assume this is report is specifying a properly functioning undamaged bulb?. I know plastics generally have UV inhibitors but wonder what the constant exposure would do to the interior plastic /mylar parts of a tent let alone any of the electrical wires over time?

I started my journey in the 80s. I recently ran 4 315s in a 5x6 room. Had some hermies and decided to move to 1 315 in a 3x3, 1 plant. Have 5 setups. Was way more expensive to do this way but has several advantages for me.
The UV side of the discussion, there’s definitely some inherent dangers that you should take precautions against, ppe! Glasses etc. I’ve seen on my plants when leaves are tucked under others, they don’t turn purple and other colors, they’ll stay green. I attribute this to the uv energy. I also think this energy is why I am so happy with my results when it comes to resin content, flavor to a degree , bud density and color. I won’t ever knock other forms of lighting, everyone’s entitled to their own preferences but I’m sticking with my “little engines that could”!
I definitely recommend digital ballasts over magnetic. Have a few magnetic 315 fixtures not in use right now due to upgrading to digital type. Way cooler, 100f compared to 150f, which is important in a tent. Good Luck on your journey!

 

[Inky66]

Sorry all, that response was not at all on point

 

[NewToTHC]

I started my journey in the 80s. I recently ran 4 315s in a 5x6 room. Had some hermies and decided to move to 1 315 in a 3x3, 1 plant. Have 5 setups. Was way more expensive to do this way but has several advantages for me.
The UV side of the discussion, there’s definitely some inherent dangers that you should take precautions against, ppe! Glasses etc. I’ve seen on my plants when leaves are tucked under others, they don’t turn purple and other colors, they’ll stay green. I attribute this to the uv energy. I also think this energy is why I am so happy with my results when it comes to resin content, flavor to a degree , bud density and color. I won’t ever knock other forms of lighting, everyone’s entitled to their own preferences but I’m sticking with my “little engines that could”!
I definitely recommend digital ballasts over magnetic. Have a few magnetic 315 fixtures not in use right now due to upgrading to digital type. Way cooler, 100f compared to 150f, which is important in a tent. Good Luck on your journey!

I haven't been able to source out a magnetic ballast for the 315w CMH. have seen some offered for sale but when I look at their specs the current draw is the same as a 400 watt MH, which has me thinking they are just using a 400 watt ballast and calling it a 315, perhaps changing the cap to a different value to lower the output?.

Any recommendations on the digital ballasts, I was looking at the Sun systems one and the Lightspeed, both dimmable which I suppose is a plus, but don't actually plan on using the CMH except under flower. CurbCalamity recommends the Nanolux, but don't seem to be commonly available. Will use my current SP1000 LED for veg.

 

[NewToTHC]

JUST SAW THIS I have the ability to film whtt will happen. dot don't blame me when little eric jumps off the terrace

Lol

 

[NewToTHC]

the cool tubers, honestly, where I come from and the ambient air temp is as high as 50C its not such an issues. somewhere like BC winter different story. open rated bulbs can go in the tubes but your better of getting a vertical reflector that has a duct.

As a test I am running a 250 watt HPS in my tent and the heat seems to be manageable, certainly during the fall, winter and spring. My guess is the CMH would have approx the same heat output, everything I have read suggests they run cooler, so suspect it's probably on par heat wise as a 250 watt HPS

 

[NewToTHC]

youre corrrect onthe ballasts, but then you need multiple lighting set ups for the one room right"?

The CMH will be for flower exclusively and my current SP1000 for veg

 

[Inky66]

I haven't been able to source out a magnetic ballast for the 315w CMH. have seen some offered for sale but when I look at their specs the current draw is the same as a 400 watt MH, which has me thinking they are just using a 400 watt ballast and calling it a 315, perhaps changing the cap to a different value to lower the output?.

Any recommendations on the digital ballasts, I was looking at the Sun systems one and the Lightspeed, both dimmable which I suppose is a plus, but don't actually plan on using the CMH except under flower. CurbCalamity recommends the Nanolux, but don't seem to be commonly available. Will use my current SP1000 LED for veg.

I have and have used the “flower power “ magnetic from sun. The magnetic get smoking hot compared to digital. My digital are prism and I love them. If you really want to get the heat out, mount the ballast outside the tent. The results from the 3100 bulb are amazing. Transition from led to cmh for the girls maybe a bit stressful. I was shocked at the heat difference between the two.

 

[Inky66]

I haven't been able to source out a magnetic ballast for the 315w CMH. have seen some offered for sale but when I look at their specs the current draw is the same as a 400 watt MH, which has me thinking they are just using a 400 watt ballast and calling it a 315, perhaps changing the cap to a different value to lower the output?.

Any recommendations on the digital ballasts, I was looking at the Sun systems one and the Lightspeed, both dimmable which I suppose is a plus, but don't actually plan on using the CMH except under flower. CurbCalamity recommends the Nanolux, but don't seem to be commonly available. Will use my current SP1000 LED for veg.

I also did a review of the prism system light on their site, gro... hou.e. The magnetic I think was “hard core “?

 

[NewToTHC]

The results from the 3100 bulb are amazing. Transition from led to cmh for the girls maybe a bit stressful. I was shocked at the heat difference between the two.

That is where a dimmable digital ballast would be a plus, just knock the output down to 50% for a week. Although a extra 1/2 foot height would probably be the same.

When you mean shocked by the heat difference did you mean the magnetic ballast vs digital. I have a digital 250w and magnetic ballast that I use for a HPS and MH bulb, and yes the heat difference between the digital and a magnetic ballast is considerable, although still not sold on the reliability of the digital ballasts.

Other hobby was reef aquariums and at the time MH bulbs were the rage. When digital ballasts came out they really were garbage, and often failed catastrophically.

 

[Inky66]

That is where a dimmable digital ballast would be a plus, just knock the output down to 50% for a week. Although a extra 1/2 foot height would probably be the same.

When you mean shocked by the heat difference did you mean the magnetic ballast vs digital. I have a digital 250w and magnetic ballast that I use for a HPS and MH bulb, and yes the heat difference between the digital and a magnetic ballast is considerable, although still not sold on the reliability of the digital ballasts.

Other hobby was reef aquariums and at the time MH bulbs were the rage. When digital ballasts came out they really were garbage, and often failed catastrophically.

Yes, heat from magnetic was 150f. Digital was 100f. I have a thermal gun.
I understand your concern. I started with 1000w MH/HPS back in the 80’s. I like you were a little concerned about longevity with digital ballasts and thus the hardcore purchase. I had trouble dealing with the heat and was forced to explore digital. I don’t regret that purchase after several harvests.