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curled leaves and slow growth

murph420

New Member
i have a total of 7 seven plant in my tent. While the 3 cherry pies are doing extremely fine my 4 bubba kush plant are hurting.

setup DWc 5 g pot w/ 10 inch net pots
strain bubba kush
room temps 70deg/50%hum
light cycle 18/6
nutes GH Flora
started ppm at 600 when to 800 after 3 weeks

all the were doing great, full growth and moving right along. the plants that are in trouble are the 4 bubbas. in the last 2 weeks the leaves have started to curl and the plant hasn't grown much. while the cherry pie continues to go full steam ahead. the plants are very green in color and the root system is going great.

can anyone give me any insight on the problem i am having??

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PeytonManning

New Member
With a t5, I would have those a few inches away. I'm not sure how you would flush in dwc. I do hempy cause it's foolproof and I'm a fool lol. I'll see if I can find you a thread about how to do it.
 

1chris1

New Member
I found this online if it helps.

Solving Marijuana Plan Leaf Curl/Cupping Problems

OK rule number #1 when you see this happening is flush with 25% nutrients; use 2 to 3 times the pot size to do this. Flushing means lots of run-off. You use 25% because some elements are not mobile without other elements, so if you have a mag lock up flushing with water won't get the mag out, as it needs nitrogen to be mobile. Your killing your plants with kindness remember they are weeds. Here are more answers for you, you might want to save it for reference later The only time you don't use rule #1 is in the last 2 weeks of flower when bottom leaves stop being used for photosynthesis.
Unless another marijuana grower inspects the damage a true assessment might not be possible. It's hard to tell "exactly" what the culprit is. Unfortunately the “solution” the marijuana grower chooses many times is not the right one.
A misdiagnosis only serves to make matters worse by promoting further decline.
The ultimate and correct solution is in the hands of the marijuana grower.
Here are some common problems when marijuana leaves are curling.
Too much marijuana fertilizer
The most common cause of marijuana leaf cupping aka leaf margin rolling, leaf margin burn, and leaf tip curl/burn is overzealous use of marijuana plant food. In relationship to factors such as marijuana plant vigour and rate of growth. Leaf burn is often the very first sign of too much marijuana fertilizer.
A hard, crispy feel to the marijuana leaf frequently occurs as well, as opposed to a soft and cool feel of a happy pot leaf. Back off on the amount and/or frequency of using marijuana fertilizer. Too much marijuana fertilizer can also burn the roots, especially the sensitive root tips, which then creates another set of problems. Note - as soil dries, the concentration of the remaining salts rises further exacerbating the problem.
High Heat
The marijuana plant is losing water via it’s leaves faster than what can be replaced by the root system. The marijuana leaf responds by leaf margin cupping or rolling up or down (most times up) in order to conserve moisture. A good example is reflected by the appearance of broad-bladed turf grass on a hot summer day, high noon, with low soil moisture levels - the leaf blade will roll upward/inward with the grass taking on a dull, greyish-green appearance. Upon sunrise when moisture levels have returned to normal, the leaf blade will be flat. Lower the heat in the marijuana grow-op and concentrate on developing a large robust root system. An efficient and effective root system will go a long way to prevent heat induced pot leaf desiccation or marijuana leaf margin curling. One short episode of high heat is enough to permanently disable or destroy leaf tissue and cause a general decline in the leaves affected, which often occurs to leaves found at the top of the cannabis plant. The damaged pot leaf (usually) does not fully recover, no matter what you do. Bummer in the summer. One can only look to new growth for indications that the problem has been corrected.
Too much light
Yes, it’s true, you can give your marijuana plant too much light. Cannabis does not receive full sun from sunrise to sunset in its natural state. It is shaded or given reduced light levels because of adjacent plant material, cloudy conditions, rain, dust, twilight periods in the morning and late afternoon, and light intensity changes caused by a change in the seasons. Too much light mainly serves to bleach out and destroy chlorophyll as opposed to causing marijuana leaf cupping, but it often goes hand-in-hand with high heat for indoor marijuana growers. Turn down the time when the lights on in your marijuana grow room. If you're using a 24 hr cycle, turn it down to 20 hrs. Those on 18 - 6 marijuana growth cycle can turn their lights down two or three hours. Too much light can have many adverse effects on marijuana plants. Concentrate on developing/maintaining an efficient and robust root system.
Over Watering
For marijuana growers using soil, this practice only serves to weaken the root system by depriving the roots of proper gas exchange. The marijuana plants roots are not getting enough oxygen which creates an anerobic condition inducing root rot and root decline with the end result showing up as leaf stress, stunted growth, and in severe cases, death. Over watering creates a perfect environment for damp-off disease, at, or below the soil line. Many times marijuana growers believe their cannabis plant is not getting enough marijuana fertilizers (which it can't under such adverse conditions), so they add more marijuana fertilizers. Making the problem worst. Not better. Often problem 1 and 4 go together. Too much marijuana fertilizer combined with too much water. Creating plenty of marijuana plant problems.
Not Enough Water
Not only is the marijuana plant now stressed due to a low supply of adequate moisture, but carbohydrate production has been greatly compromised (screwed up). Step up the watering frequency, and if need be, organic marijuana growers may need to water from the bottom up until moisture levels reach a norm throughout the medium. One of the best methods in determining whether a marijuana plant requires watering is lifting the pots. The pots should be light to lift before a water session. After watering the marijuana plants lift the pots to get an understanding how heavy they've become fully watered. If the pot feels light to the lift - it’s time to water. Don’t wait until the soil pulls away from the side of the pot before watering. And of course, leach, once in a while to get rid of excess salts. These are the five most common problems marijuana growers encounter when growing cannabis. Correcting the problems early will save the marijuana plants, but may reduce overall yield. With practice and experience these problems are easily overcome which will then enable the marijuana grower to produce fantastic marijuana plants. With heavy yields.
woodsmaneh, Feb 8, 2013 #2
 

Lurch Farmer

Well-Known Member
Yo, murph420 , I have been growing in hydro for a few years,so I might have some hydo help for ya, first a few questions,
1. are the buckets stand alone or a system
if a system
2.where n the system are the trouble buckets
3.what kind of water are you using (tap, well , ro)
4.is your air pump and stones workig properly
5.what is water temp.
6.this is your 3rd grow in the same buckets, could be the 4 in question did not get totally clean
7. is there an chance light is reaching the water.
8. are you running sterile or beneficial root zone
:peace:
 

murph420

New Member
1. 4 separate buckets
2. the three in the center of one of my pics w/ one out of view
3. using RO- ppm comes out to be 15
4. yes
5. water temp is 20c
6 everything in the system is new baskets, air stones, line. bucket were thoroughly cleaned
7 maybe from where the air line goes in the bucket
8. no
 

Greenthumb J

Well-Known Member
make sure you have no root issues with you plants.. I.E root rot. That will halt nutrient uptake and bring growth to a halt and eventually kill your plant.

I had some root issues with my DWC system i had before i changed them to smaller tubs. My root issues were wiped away using a product call AquaShield. New root growth exploded from all the dead roots and new leaf growth came back.. All the plants that were suffering are all thriving thanks to Aquashield. I use it in my weekly res changes btw and it keeps everything in check in my water.

Aquashield: A must have for anyone doing hydro!
 

murph420

New Member
Sterile-but I haven't scrubbed. I might wipe out occasionally. My 4 other plant are doing extremely well.
What would u suggest to do to flush them?
 

Lurch Farmer

Well-Known Member
make sure you have no root issues with you plants.. I.E root rot. That will halt nutrient uptake and bring growth to a halt and eventually kill your plant.

I had some root issues with my DWC system i had before i changed them to smaller tubs. My root issues were wiped away using a product call AquaShield. New root growth exploded from all the dead roots and new leaf growth came back.. All the plants that were suffering are all thriving thanks to Aquashield. I use it in my weekly res changes btw and it keeps everything in check in my water.

Aquashield: A must have for anyone doing hydro!

I have never used Aquashield.
I have used the GH line,

It is definitely a lockout issue.
I am thinking lack of oxygen in the root zone

If ppm was to high, there would be burn, not deficiency discoloration.
ANYway on to how I flush when roots are in question during veg.

PLEASE REMEMBER THIS IS WHAT WORKS FOR ME AND JUST BECAUSE IT WORKS FOR ME DOES NOT MEAN IT WILL WORK FOR YOU

1. 2 clean buckets
2. over sized air pump and stone
3. water 60f (yes 60f) I use straight tap (yes I know there is chlorine in the water which is bad for roots but it turns out can be helpful
4. 1 tbls h202
setup bucket 1 with 60f water, minus nutes with the over sized air pump. by over sized I mean use one for a 50 gal tank in a 5gal bucket
bucket 2. 70- 80f water and h2o2 . a shallow tote work better for this stage
take the roots and net pot in the water and pretend you are rinsing a mop out, 2-3 minute
the water should remove any nute staining/buildup on the roots giving you a closer look
place in bucket 1 average 2 days new roots should start popping out
change the water and return to nute schedule 1/2 strength first week,
This should get you back on track with a sterile root zone.
:peace:
 

murph420

New Member
Well, i the did the flush and changed the nutes. We'll just have to wait and see what happens. other plants are doing great still.

Thanks for all the help from everyone
 
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