Deficiency or disease

[RoyC]

The size of the pot is not the only factor coming in to play. There's also the frequency of feeding, and your training. I have grown 120cm tall (5') bushy plants with a 0.5m2 (5 sq ft)canopy in an 11l (3.8 US gal) pot, fed three times per day.

That said, 13l pots is a good choice for 9 plants in your tent.

Cheers for the confirmation thought I'd check with you, you definitely have that knowledge bubs buddy was talking about, learnt so much already, cheers heaps

 

[Radagast97]

Cool I can't get nematodes here I don't think and most overseas companies don't seem to ship here but I'll keep trying, might find a drench or something.
So do I wait to see the top of the coco dry just abit before I feed next because 4 were had just a little dry on top and the rest still heavy as, do i top the 4 slightly dry top ones up and water next night or just water them all anyway

One thing I found to be fairly effective for fungus gnats is diatomaceous earth. I mix it with a little soil and perlite and make a thin layer over my soil. It scratches the insect's waxy coating and causes dehydration, both those laying eggs and those they are just changed to adults from pupae. It takes a few weeks to break their reproduction cycle, but it's something I really wish I'd known about back when I grew mushrooms (edible, not the fun kind).

 

[RoyC]

Hi all was wondering if it's good to run light 24 7 in veg instead of 18 6, the person that taught me said they get enough sleep in flower lol

 

[Radagast97]

Keeping your plants in 24/7 light increases you DLI (Daily light integral), which is a way of effectively increasing your PPFD (Photosynthetic Photon Flux Density - aka effective light intensity) by allowing them to get more light per day. I tend to give two hours of darkness in veg, keeping my lights on 22 hours. I can't run at the same PPFD as would be experienced by daylight, so this helps make up for it. This is mentioned as acceptable by Read Spear, long time professional grower and respected author on the subject.

Needless to say, dropping back to 12/12 in flowering is critical to maintaining flowering in non-autoflower plants. I haven't the slightest on what AF do in 24/7.

 

[RoyC]

Hi all trying the quad linings method didn't quite turn out like his but first go, just in 2nd week flower and done the last lollipop was wondering if I went overboard with the trimming still experimenting with it, I just tryed to get the tops light from leaves and got rid of anything that was low and probably wouldn't get light, I went a little extra on a couple just to see, didn't take a b4 photo tho thought about it afterwards lol but they were bushy as, filled up about half a 20ltr bucket with what I cut off and had been constantly trimming through veg to keep what I wanted in the light, any advice good or bad be great thanks, also what week is end of stretch on a 8 week for example?

 

[Radagast97]

Nice crop, Roy. Where do you get your pots?

Btw, might want to turn off your lights when taking pics and use the flash - get a more natural color in the pics that way.

 

[RoyC]

Hi everyone, I've been trying to research about cutting leaf in flower stage but still not sure how much I can if any, they are abit over crowded, my fault, I've been taking leaf of that has been covering other potential mains through out whole grow till 2 week into flower but I'm jst a bit cautious in flower, I've heard it can make the plant grow more leaf and makes leafy buds? I'm in week 5 now, I think these one have long flower phase, would like to get abit light to the slightly lower mains and get abit of air in the middle, any thoughts or links would be very much appreciated, cheers
Thet got little bit more crowded since these pics, sorry forgot to turn light off and use flash

 

[Ossi Ossi]

You may have all ready rectified however on the rust issue,have you got franjipanis on your property or neighbours because I have a franjipanis nursery and I have just had a dose of rust , franjipanis are rebound for rust as desease,I reckon it could very easily transfered to your room Just throwing my 2 Bob in

I posted this in introduce myself but thort I'd post here to, im not sure on strain hybrid of some sort, have 12 in coco, 1.2x1.2x2m tent, 1000w air cooled hood, 24 °C at the mo, use house and garden to there chart, 1 week into flower, runoff ph normal, the problem happened last grow when i had thrip infestation witch took me awhile to sort out, got rid off them but the left abit of damage and had a few scale bugs to, after that the leaves started turning yellow then brown then dying, thort it was just because they were quite damaged but it seemed to spread, then I noticed the next babies in now started yellowing and dying especially if the leaf damage or had a little rip in it now it's just speading rapidly, yellowing from tip of leaf in to stem and others from stem of leaf to tip, curling leaves and weird growth, there are no visible pests, I tryed peroxide 3% spray over foliage i think left the yellow patches red like rust, have now used fungus and bacteria spray and have been constantly removing any yellowing leaf, still early days for fungus spray but I think it still speading, I've noticed outside around our house there seems to be similar damage on certain plants and weeds and the local plant nursery said he had rust, I can't seem to figure this one out, it's just weird its carried on to the next lot and haven't changed medium or nutrient, clones are from the same 3 or 4 different mothers which make me think its disease from thrips, is it a type of rust, bacteria, fungus, tiny bug I can't see or deficiency, thanks for any help ya have, here's some photos but because I keep removing lots of leaf can't really see the different yellowing characteristics which is confusing deficiency diagnosis

 

[RoyC]

You may have all ready rectified however on the rust issue,have you got franjipanis on your property or neighbours because I have a franjipanis nursery and I have just had a dose of rust , franjipanis are rebound for rust as desease,I reckon it could very easily transfered to your room Just throwing my 2 Bob in

Hi thanks, don't think we have those around here but not 100% sure, i still see it at times on the plant but it doesn't seem to stay for long, maybe the plants healthy enough to fight it, things got alot better at the mo, do you know much about cutting leaf in flower to allow light in and air movement?

 

[RoyC]

Hi all does anyone know why this is happening?

 

[RoyC]

Have you added anything to the coco, other than an inert substance like perlite, or vermiculite? If not, you are running a drain-to-waste hydroponic system. You need to water about once per day during early veg, and that will increase to three or more times per day by the middle of flowering. The coco should never dry out with this system. In late flower my plants in 11l (3.8 gallon) grow bags are drinking about 1 liter or quart, three time per day. This gives me about 10% run off.

The coco should never be allowed to dry out. It can be difficult to re-hydrate the coco. If it's dry, the vast majority of your nutrient solution will drain from your pots, rather than being available for your plants. To properly re-hydrate the coco, submerge your pots in your nutrient solution for about 10 minutes.

If you have added soil, peat, or earthworm castings to your coco, you need to treat it like a soil grow, and let the mix dry out before watering again. The soil, peat, or earthworm castings will hold the water for your plants.

Hi again I was thinking about adding f worm casting to my next grow, if I do can I still use my coco nutrient A&B?
Should I still run off 10%?
What mix ratio should i use?

 

[RoyC]

Hi again I was thinking about adding f worm casting to my next grow, if I do can I still use my coco nutrient A&B?
Should I still run off 10%?
What mix ratio should i use?

@Old Salt

 

[RoyC]

I think you are seeing a magnesium deficiency. What is the pH of your nutrient solution? Are you running drain-to-waste, or another method?

Hi not sure how to get a hold of you so I just replied to this post
Hi thanks for all the help and advice you gave me a while back things have been running very good thanks heaps, I just ran into another problem that I cant seem to find the answer to myself so I was hoping you could help, it would be much appreciated.
I've changed a few things to my normally smooth running process.
* I changed from 1000w hps to a scorpion Diablo led around week 2 of flower
* different strain i think its white rhino
* cloned my on clones this time, all lived and had good roots
* changed from 9 pots to 6 pot but dont think that was a problem
* tryed a new flowering nutrient
Every thing else is the same I think environment and nutrient wise, I quadline in my 1.2 x 1.2 x 2m tent 6 plants in coco and about week 5-6 of flower I noticed most of the main colas were not forming properly looking like a branch with spaced out nodes and not getting closer node spacing to the top as they were finishing stretch, not forming a normal main cola, I have a pretty even canopy some mains got a bit higher they normally become the bigger of canopies mains but they are the smallest except one plant in the back middle that seems to be developing normal with most of the colas looking how I would expect, I think being the first time using this strain, the plant next to it at the back is not as good but better than the rest. When I changed over to the led I didn't realize the last 3 clicks on the led dimmer didnt do anything so was running it at max 660w by accident instead of 3/4 power to let them adjust and slowly increase over a few days, I might of used the end of flower nutrient top shooter a little bit early maybe for a week then changed to the new flower food I got, I've used CMX, multi zyme, roots excelurator in the last few weeks and flushed with water but maybe its to late now, they just into week 8, but would like to know what went wrong for next time, thanks heaps for your time.

These next photos are of the middle plant that going good

I checked the roots out holes in pot and they all look the same as the plant that's doing good from what i can tell

@Silverfox125

 

[013]

Wanted to let you know that Old Salt hasn’t been around since 2020, I’m going to ask @InTheShed to confirm / drop intel

 

[InTheShed]

Wanted to let you know that Old Salt hasn’t been around since 2020, I’m going to ask @InTheShed to confirm / drop intel

New nutes, light, varieties, pots, everything else is the same (?), and the plants look pretty healthy to me. Is it the node spacing? Are these all identical clones?

 

[013]

maybe the op is asking about the ginormous foxtails in pics #2 and #3….???

she’s showing serious foxtails but it’s all good. whats your light spacing? are you checking tent ambient temp at top of canopy? …. don‘t trust just 1 hygrometer or words to that effect

or if you think the colas are not as filled out as they should be that can be impacted by many factors but also lollipopping lowers to focus growth to the tops…

even if all are the same strain there will be great diversity in the shapes of the calyxes and the way the buds stack up….

anyway not sure if any if this helps….

 

[RoyC]

New nutes, light, varieties, pots, everything else is the same (?), and the plants look pretty healthy to me. Is it the node spacing? Are these all identical clones?

Hi thanks for the reply, old salt gave me lots of help ( I hope everything ok) and got me to a smooth running room until I changed those few variables as mentioned above, when I use house and gardens top shooter/shooting powder it always shoots new growth out in funny places I think it's the natural pgr in it maybe, I was think it maybe foxtail but there's closer mains with no sign of foxtail, they are all the same strain off same mother, the one plant in the back middle is normal looking main cola thick with tighter node spacing toward the top and the rest vary looking like a branch with long node spaces and a little bud on top, never had this before 26°c ambient temp and leaf temp, because of new strain the did get abit taller than I would of like but the still roughly within manufacture range from led, I'll measure again tonight, could this be from to much light saturation but not excess left temp for example, thanks heaps for your time

 

[InTheShed]

We haven't heard from Old Salt or his wife since the early days of the pandemic, so all we can do is hope for the best and that he's not here for other reasons.

Just so I'm clear, you're using Shooting Powder as part of your nutrients? A web search says that "Shooting Powder formulation consists of two main active ingredients; phosphorus and potassium." Are you feeding all your plants the exact same thing so the only difference between them is placement in the tent? All fresh soil, thinning methods the same, etc.?

It looks pretty crowded in there so light penetration/airflow might be a difference, but I'm seeing foxtails all over. If only the upper flowers are foxtailing then I'm guessing light or heat stress (two different things).

 

[RoyC]

We haven't heard from Old Salt or his wife since the early days of the pandemic, so all we can do is hope for the best and that he's not here for other reasons.

Just so I'm clear, you're using Shooting Powder as part of your nutrients? A web search says that "Shooting Powder formulation consists of two main active ingredients; phosphorus and potassium." Are you feeding all your plants the exact same thing so the only difference between them is placement in the tent? All fresh soil, thinning methods the same, etc.?

It looks pretty crowded in there so light penetration/airflow might be a difference, but I'm seeing foxtails all over. If only the upper flowers are foxtailing then I'm guessing light or heat stress (two different things).

Yea I hope so to, he helped me so much and likewise with you done it all for free just for the passion, I admire you guys and this forum for that.
I've been using top shooter the liquid version of shooting power for a long time now and it says it makes the plant keep producing new bud growth

It seems to make white haired bud pop out all over the bud, makes bud look really ugly tho so I trying a new nutrient, I used top shooter for a week and a half before this new one.

Its real hard to tell how much difference with photos tho but
my main question is why the difference between these two mains and even tho this is my first time with this strain the better of these two mains I think has been hindered and has much more potential if I can work out what went wrong
I'm in coco same nutrient for all, every things the same for plants, the back plants always do slightly better tho but only slightly
Leaf temp been about the same as as ambient temperature, been hot here lately, got down to 24 at times and leaf temp was the same

The circled area's are highly to led but have no foxtail and arrow is foxtail that's lower than most mains which makes me think its the top shooter and not foxtail but not saying your wrong because its a new led and my first led, it might be to strong even if I'm keeping within manufacturers height limits, so I researched what to much light saturation looks like but most say leaf discoloration or yellow near top or nutrient burn at tip of leaf but I'm not seeing that until I went and measured the distance tonight and seen this which might be sign of to much light saturation only on a few leaves tho

Manufacturers hight between 15 - 20 inches 380 - 500 mm so I'm at min distance at some spots but overall just on the 38, I have dimmed it down now, just want to know for next lot how to get them at there best, thanks again for ur time