Delps 8 Hydro RDWC Gorilla Glue Autoflower 2021

From my understanding, it's exposure to the range allowing them to uptake the nutrients. To go beyond that explanation- couldn't tell you. I've only done this a few times, and can tell you what's worked with me, and what I've read.
That’s good to hear.
There’s certainly a lot of info on the various cannabis sites but I’d like to find a reference for this. Somebody in some lab somewhere has looked into this. Time to search the bookstore.

[edit]
Blinding flash of the obvious - for some reason, the plants are doing something to raise pH and keep it at a certain level. That tells my little brain that either they don’t want/need the nutes that are available at the lower levels and/or they want the goodies that they get from the higher pH values. If the latter is the case, then we should see pH drop by adding the nutes that are taken up only at or in significantly higher levels when pH is at 6.3. I don’t have a nute chart available at the moment but, if there’s a note that fits that description, that could be why the plants are going to 6.3.
On the other hand, I could just buy a book and remove all doubt! :)
 
Dropped pH to 5.8 and it’s sitting at 5.9. The plants a little water overnight - about 0.25 gallons. EC is unchanged at1.0.

The foliage is getting completely “clogged”. Leaves are intertwined and it’s obvious that there’s a lot of underbrush that’s not getting any light.

At what point should I trim away some of the growth and what should I cut off?

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At what point should I trim away some of the growth and what should I cut off?
Oh boy, you’re opening a can of worms with that question. :laughtwo:
Just me, but I’d leave them be until they start stretching, and even then I’d only tuck fan leaves to expose bud sites. All that green is the fuel that fires the engine.
 
Oh boy, you’re opening a can of worms with that question. :laughtwo:
Just me, but I’d leave them be until they start stretching, and even then I’d only tuck fan leaves to expose bud sites. All that green is the fuel that fires the engine.
I've picked up on the "trim it up" vs "don't cut anything". It makes sense to get rid of debris - leaves and branches that are dying or well on their way. What I don't get is something like cutting off a fan leaf. As you put it, that's what fires the engine.

Then I read this grow journal from one of the links below. Wow. Of course, he's grown 192 more plants than I have so there's that.

My goal for this grow was to have a harvest before the summer heat and to have enough bud so that I wouldn't have to go to the weed store until a photo grow was done ≈ 4 months. I don't need a stellar grow to do that so, as much as I dislike "that's good enough", "that's good enough" beats an "aw shit".
 
Dropped pH to 5.8 and it’s sitting at 5.9. The plants a little water overnight - about 0.25 gallons. EC is unchanged at1.0.

The foliage is getting completely “clogged”. Leaves are intertwined and it’s obvious that there’s a lot of underbrush that’s not getting any light.

At what point should I trim away some of the growth and what should I cut off?

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Best discussion I've seen (I think multivortex nailed it)
 
Best discussion I've seen (I think multivortex nailed it)
I like what he had to say with regards to defoliating autos. I had no idea that all the stressing/training/defoliating of my first auto grow was what led them to delay flower and get so big.

(quoted from @multiVortex)
Which brings us to the downside of it all, and pretty much a 180* move from why most people run autos: speed.

When you do this to autos, it will delay them in veg a little longer. While this allows them to get bigger, it also means you are negating the main desirable trait of an auto: their ability to finish quicker than their photoperiod counterpart.

So really, unless there is a reason to run autos other than for their quicker turnaround, then it really won't be of any benefit. However, that by no means makes it a bad thing to do.”
 
Best discussion I've seen (I think multivortex nailed it)
Thank you for posting that link (don't get how I missed it. I did a search on "defoliate". Shit).
Excellent info and a well reasoned argument. One item, of many, of note - top after 21 days and remove nodes 1 and 2. I didn't have a fourth node at 21 but topped as soon as they popped up. Days since sprouting - 25, 25, 26, 27. I did not remove nodes 1 and 2. It's now day 29 and the heavy foliage is on nodes 1 and 2.

I'm <= 4 days from having topped the plants so I'm thinking that I should either remove nodes 1 and 2 now - I'm going to have to lop it off in a few weeks when they go into flower. Thoughts?

I did remove node 1 on the largest plant, Frank, and there's been no visible impact. To that point, now that I've got to move the plants to the "corners" of the res, I'm toying with the idea of culling Reynolds, the smallest plant and the last one to be topped, and giving that half of the tent to Frank.

Or, just blow it off and smoke another brisket (real BBQ).
 
I like what he had to say with regards to defoliating autos. I had no idea that all the stressing/training/defoliating of my first auto grow was what led them to delay flower and get so big.
How much did it add to seed to weed time?


(quoted from @multiVortex)
Which brings us to the downside of it all, and pretty much a 180* move from why most people run autos: speed.

When you do this to autos, it will delay them in veg a little longer. While this allows them to get bigger, it also means you are negating the main desirable trait of an auto: their ability to finish quicker than their photoperiod counterpart.

So really, unless there is a reason to run autos other than for their quicker turnaround, then it really won't be of any benefit. However, that by no means makes it a bad thing to do.”
You read my mind - that's the reason I'm using autos.

I topped the plants because…that's what you do, right? I wouldn't have thought to not top them. I hope I didn't step on my thumb by topping but what's done is done. The question should I remove nodes 1 and 2. Coin toss?
 
How much did it add to seed to weed time?



You read my mind - that's the reason I'm using autos.

I topped the plants because…that's what you do, right? I wouldn't have thought to not top them. I hope I didn't step on my thumb by topping but what's done is done. The question should I remove nodes 1 and 2. Coin toss?
Up to you, sometimes I top, sometimes not but then I'll Lst. I've noticed on a healthy plant you can lst and get similar results without the additional stress. Really it's a choice you have to make. Each has its pros and cons.
 
Up to you, sometimes I top, sometimes not but then I'll Lst. I've noticed on a healthy plant you can lst and get similar results without the additional stress. Really it's a choice you have to make. Each has its pros and cons.
But, but, but…I just want answers. :)

I decided to trim some of the underbrush away, the main issue being air flow. I removed a few fan leaves that weren’t getting any light and that wouldn’t receive light in the future but most of the cuttings were small branches and leaves, the biggest being a couple of inches long.

"If it were done when ’tis done, then ’twere well it were done quickly"

We’ll see where this goes, eh?


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But, but, but…I just want answers. :)

I decided to trim some of the underbrush away, the main issue being air flow. I removed a few fan leaves that weren’t getting any light and that wouldn’t receive light in the future but most of the cuttings were small branches and leaves, the biggest being a couple of inches long.

"If it were done when ’tis done, then ’twere well it were done quickly"

We’ll see where this goes, eh?


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Ok- so as said done is done. I personally like to keep those bigger leaves on the outside.

That's a lot at once. Don't give her any additional stress for a bit, IMO.
 
Noticeable overnight growth and, finally, significant water consumption. Not a coincidence, I’d expect.
Water level fell 5mm so that’s 0.6 gallons versus the 0.25 gallons the day before.
Plant growth has increased the PPFD they’re getting. Readings were 470, 490, 530, 460. Increased output by 10 PPFD.
Did a little leaf tucking and there’s starting to be some vertical growth of the branches. Some LST is in the offing.
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Per pix, they’re starting to crowd each other. That, combined with the fact that my pruning efforts didn’t lay them to waste, tells me that it’s time to move them to different locations in the res.
 
Looking great delps! The plants are really taking off now, happy to see the water consumption go up. When it happens it's like a night and day difference as you're seeing differences just overnight.

Good idea to move the plants out to the corners of the res, give them some more room and you can train them outwards some if needed.

As for defoliating autos, I've gone a little rough on them before in this department and it didn't seem to effect the plants much. I would think doing your defoliating all in one day would be best as opposed to a few leaves here and there, but, every strain is going to be a little different as well.
 
Looking great delps! The plants are really taking off now, happy to see the water consumption go up. When it happens it's like a night and day difference as you're seeing differences just overnight.
Ain't that the truth! Two days of increased water consumption - until a couple of days ago, it was hard to determine if any water had been used. It looked like about 1 mm/day vs the past two days have been ≈ 0.5 cm or >= 0.5 gallons.
Foliage is now overlapping and the scent of the past few days, a mild "funk”, is stronger.

Good idea to move the plants out to the corners of the res, give them some more room and you can train them outwards some if needed.
So you're saying grow all 4 plants vs culling the smallest and letting Frank have one side of the res? It’s a 2 x 4 x 8 tent so I’ve got all the vertical I need but not a lot of floor space.


As for defoliating autos, I've gone a little rough on them before in this department and it didn't seem to effect the plants much. I would think doing your defoliating all in one day would be best as opposed to a few leaves here and there, but, every strain is going to be a little different as well.
They continue to fill out so, if there was an impact, it only slowed things from fast+ to fast.
I first smelled the plants a few days ago wanted to get the underbrush cleared out to avoid any issues with humidity. These are “crumb snatcher”-sized plants and I don’t want to take any chances with mold.
 
The kids drank some water. Prior to two days ago, it was hard to measure water consumption so I was measuring/estimating about 1 qt/day (that’s 1 mm in this res). With the Rubber Duckie water gauge, it’s easier to measure, and I’m seeing 0.6 gals and 0.5 gals being consumed.
That coincides with increased RH in the tent so I’m glad the underbrush is gone - reduced chances for mold.
So far, the only problems with this grow have been my mistakes - nute water on the leaves. Everything else has been rock steady.
DFWTP - my new motto. Don’t fool with the plants.
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The pix of the ruler are the Rubber Duckie water gauge (rubber ducks were used in the concept and design stage).





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The piece of cork is a #50 jar stopper. Cut a slot in the cork, insert the ruler, cut the bottom of the net pot so the cork can float on the surface, and then cut a slot in the net pot cover. Works like a charm.

Big question is how many plants and where to put them.

The res is off center to the right* and back so the left side of the res/tent is about 4.7 sq ft which leaves 3.3 for the right side. I’m tempted to remove Reynolds and give Frank the entire right side and then move the others to the edge of the res. That would give two plants 4.7 sq ft. and Frank can take over the 3.3 sq ft space. The $64k question is will I get more yield vs keeping all four plants (four plants would have Frank and Reynolds in the 4.7 ft area and Hamilton and Joe on the right, in the 3.3 sq ft space).

All opinions welcome.

*I can’t move the res to the left because of the humidifier.
 
I spent some time tucking leaves and starting LST. Found a new type of growth, per pix.
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I"m quite certain that's not a tomato so I'm thinking that these plants are getting ready to flower.

The first plant sprouted on 4/6/21 so they're 32 days old now and, per below, Kind has a "Bloom Transition" phase. Are these plants in "Transition" or should I stick to the Veg schedule?

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Moved the plants to new locations. The roots were wrapped around the air hoses so I had to remove all of the air stones and pull them through the root balls. Frank and Joe (one of the medium sized plants) are on the left, Reynolds and Hamilton are on the right. That will give Frank room to grow into the "alley" while Reynolds is the smallest plant so it has been pushed into the corner.
Reading through grow journals, other growers are putting 4 plants into a 4 x 4 and that pretty much fills up the tent. I didn't want to throw out a viable plants — I'm taking a wait and see attitude because I turned in my "helicopter parent" badge. :)

Light levels are really different. I was running the Mars at 16" at 45% and all the plants were getting really good light. I've raised the light to about 24" and the dimmer is at about 75% which is sort of a bummer. Until now, the Mars was using only 90 watts but that's now doubled - larger area being illuminated + higher PPFD adds up to more $$, especially at 24¢ kwh. CA is only 3# in the nation for highest electricity cost but they're taking more baseload sources off line so not only will intermittent energy destabilize the grid (more outages) but the price will go up, as well. Good times.

Light levels are 620, 550, 550, 600 AKA"a while lotta light". At 620, that's DLI of 40 which is about where things can go at the end of week four. Frank, the big guy, is at 620 and he has always had the highest PPFD but the 600 is for Reynolds, the little one in the back, and I don't know how well Reynolds will deal with that much incoming.

Per the pix, the sensors are in a different location so the calibration is "cattywampus" (as an immigrant, the American language never ceases to amaze me). The Pulse and the Inkbird ("Wetbird") were in sync but the Pulse is reading 68.4 and Wetbird is 61.8. It's great to have smart sensors but what I wouldn't give to have a grow room…

The kids have been drinking water and EC has been steady but pH has dropped very slowly over the past few days. I had a gallon of 50% nutes (510 PPM) so I added that to the res along with 1 CC Up. pH is resting at 5.8 but I'll bet that it's 5.7 tomorrow AM.

With a WonderChart reading of FSF, I should swap the res and up the EC. No issue with swapping the res but I haven't been sure what nute mix to use because, until a few minutes ago, I hadn't been sure of what stage of growth the plants are in. "reading the plant" is very helpful but it does not tell me what nute mix to use. I can see nute burn and know that I put in too much of something but, with all of ¾ of one grow (the one in 2017 that revegged) under my belt I can stare at them all day and it won't tell me if I'm in the last week of veg or the first week of "transition", as Botanicare calls it.

I've roamed around through some of the journals here and on other sites and I'm on day 34. That puts me right at the start of week 2 of transition to bloom so the late stage nutes that I gave them last week should have been early transition. IWO, they had "grow" when they should have had "bloom" nutes.

In addition to that being the right place on the calendar, I've also seen water consumption take off, the new growth in the plants could well be colas, and pH has been dropping so that could mean that the plants want different nutes.

If I've missed something, lemme know. If not, I'm going to replace the current "veg" nutes with transition nutes and see how that turns out.
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Trying to do some LST on these plants but I’m pissing up a rope. I put binder clips on the edges of the netpots and ran a length of twist tie up around a branch and back down. That was not an easy task because of the dense foliage but it worked OK on the smaller plants. No way was I able to do that on Frank.
Decided to switch gears and go with paracord and fishing weights. No idea how big they should be so I ordered 2 oz weights. I can put one weight on each end of a piece of paracord, drop the weights through the canopy and then tie them together on the res surface. Unlike individual pots for each plant, having one res surface means that there’s no easy way to clip on to something and yet be able to rotate the plant.
I’ve thought about using tape to hold down the paracord but then I can’t turn the plant. OTOH, the fishing weights can move with the plant.
After this grow, it might be good to modify the net pots by putting a holes in the rim of each net pot and putting a hook of some kind through each hole. Previous grow was photos and the internodal space was much larger so I did have to work blind. These autos require a different approach.
The stems and branches on these plants are really thick and tough. I’ve been using Silica Blast, which supposedly increases stem strength, and I’ve had a fan running from the jump. Perhaps those two have contributed.

The res did drop to 5.5 by the end of the morning. WonderChart says new res and increase PPM. I settled for upping the PPM from 510 to 580.
 
When I think of increasing or decreasing nute strength I think of 200ppm steps. I push my plants to the point of nute burn then back off 200ppm. If I have a FSF system and know my nute strength is pushing the max I back off 200ppm. I’m loath to underfeed.

These aren’t commercial grows where we’re watching every penny and balancing nute costs against yield.
 
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