Member of the Month: Sept 2018 - Plant of the Month: Mar 2019 - Nug of the Month: October 2019
Y’all all sound really smarter than I does!
I know I’ve read that the different forms do different things and both are required, for all plants, not sure in what ratio it at what time tho.Thanks. I was curious and I guess I need to read up about about the differences of ammonium or nitrate based to understand a little more what is going on.
I’m sure that’s rightI'm sure it's different from species to species as well.
I’m not sure they have to both play a part, but I know they can (so maybe I shouldn’t have said ‘required’ earlier). One is more readily available and the other requires certain things in place for availability but is then much more efficient for the plants’ purposes. I can’t remember which is which tho. I think it’s the nitrate form that is the less easily available one that is more efficient - but don’t quote me on that.Thanks Amy..that's a step in the right direction for me as I didn't even know both played a part. I assumed most nute manufacturers used one method (if that's the correct term) or the other.
Are we ready now?We had discussions on the correct way to check the pH of soil or soil-less medium (none involved checking our nute runoff). I'll post the various methods he sent me in a different thread and post a link here. I don't want to distract from the info above!
I believe that the company that makes MSU Orchid Fertilizer will custom blend fertilizers based on medium and water samples you provide them, but that's for like big green house type volume of fertilizer.I think it would be difficult to formulate given the variation in water alkalinity, as well as differences in substrates when they are making nutes for coco/hydro/soil/soil-less. I mean MegaCrop can't even figure out which NPK formula they want to go with (three different ratios over the last three months!).
Outrageous!Oh, and for some reason I had work today!
Interesting! high-Brix hobby gardening is the same in that it’s taking a system of principles and measurements designed for large scale agriculture and applying it to hobby growing. That could surely be done with this company. Take a lot of R&D to work out what the balance needs to be at each stage of a cannabis grow... but it’s not impossible. The general science is already thereI believe that the company that makes MSU Orchid Fertilizer will custom blend fertilizers based on medium and water samples you provide them, but that's for like big green house type volume of fertilizer.
How ya doin', lol? I'm going to do something I rarely do and post a reply after reading ONLY the first post (it's late and if I start thinking, I'll be up all night ) - but I'll read the remainder of the thread in the next day or three, when I get time.Greetings all!
Yeah, municipal water quality reports (everyone who pays a water bill should get one of these once a year or so) sometimes mention this. They don't always mention pH ."It is the potential acidity or basicity of the fertilizer chemistry and the alkalinity content of your water that affects the pH of the growing medium. For the fertilizers, it is called ‘potential’ since it is determined by the chemistry and the quantity of fertilizer nutrients that are applied and the ‘potential’ they have to interact with the plant root system and influence the pH of the growing medium up or down."
All related to the medium. And the interesting use of the word "potential," but again ended it by talking about moving the pH of the growing medium.
I knew that stuff was closer to a hydroponic media than it was to actual soil, lol. Well, some of it. Turns out they have a range of products, and some seem to be... closer to soil than others. (If I'm not mistaken - which is certainly a possibility here.)1. Ideal pH range for mineral soil is 6.0-6.5. Soil-less growing media, such as PRO-MIX, have an ideal pH range of 5.5-6.0.
At that point, did you find yourself thinking, "But alkaline water has a high pH...?"2. However, pH of nutrient water is irrelevant to the pH of any soil or growing media. It is the alkalinity of nutrient water and the potential acidity/basicity of the fertilizer(s) that influence the pH of the growing medium and root zone. For example, if the alkalinity of nutrient water is moderate or high, pH of growing medium will rise over time.
Who was it that did the "electroshock therapy" plant experiment a while back, Emilya? I wonder if any positive results that she might have experienced could have been chalked up to the process helping out a plant that happened to be in a less than perfect environment? (NOTE: A less than perfect environment... can still be pretty good; I am not trying to infer that it was bad.)a. Plant roots are electrically charged and must maintain a neutral balance.
Well, a lawyer might, if you asked him, "Is it necessary to put a coat on before venturing outside when it's below 32°F?" say, "No." After all, lol, you wouldn't have been asking if it is a good idea to do so, or whether you might eventually regret not doing so.And at the bottom of that summary I added one last direct question:
"If I’m growing in ProMix HP and I mix up the nutrient solution and it reads 7.4 pH, it is not necessary for me to adjust that number down using phosphoric acid or the like. I can pour it into the pot at 7.4 and my plants will be able to uptake those nutrients?"
His response was a direct "Yes."
Did he happen to use the words "slurry test," lol? Because that's how I've always heard ( / read / stated / typed) one should test the pH of a soil(ish) substrate.We had discussions on the correct way to check the pH of soil or soil-less medium (none involved checking our nute runoff).
All the countless growers who never bothered to check the pH of anything throughout the history of growing cannabis and still managed to get a harvest from their efforts?Hmmm, I wont argue, but who's gonna be the guinea pig? 7.4 seems high to me.
When I was researching this topic heavily about a year ago, I noticed a lot of nute companies seem to balance the amout of Ammoniacal Nitrogen (drives pH down) with Nitrate Nitrogen (drives pH up) in a 1:3 ratio. It's probably not a coincidence that ratio seems to occur often, across several companies.From the source provided by Farside:
“The primary problem associated with low alkalinity water is a tendency for substrate-pH to drop over time, which can cause micronutrient toxicity problems. Usually, low pH problems are a result of fertilizer selection. Fertilizers high in ammoniacal nitrogen are acidic, and without any alkalinity in the water to balance the reaction (resist lowering of pH), acidic fertilizers will tend to drive the substrate-pH down over time.”