Doc Bud: All Organic OG Kush SCROG

[Doc Bud]

Thanks Doc, so if i make 20 gallons of super soil, thats 4 cups of Ca mix. I understand now. I hope!

Im going to use 5 gallon smart pots. I scratched in some azomite for first time in my blueberrys. Theyre still standing.

Thanks again Doc

High Brix Student

With the mineralized soil, teas and smart pots, your roots should be off the hook....which means your leaves will be awesome.....which means the buds should be legendary.

Just using so many micronutes, pyrogrow and gypsum like I've been doing has improved quality.......I can't wait to see what the mineralization of the soil is gonna do.

 

[onegramperwat]

With the mineralized soil, teas and smart pots, your roots should be off the hook....which means your leaves will be awesome.....which means the buds should be legendary.

Just using so many micronutes, pyrogrow and gypsum like I've been doing has improved quality.......I can't wait to see what the mineralization of the soil is gonna do.

This could get really exciting. Lead the way to a more nutrient dense canabis. So I started a grow journal will try and leave a signature for it, Im going to go by weight with the Ca mix. Just found the kitchen scale. Yeah buddy.

High Brix Student

Peace

 

[Doc Bud]

OK....I went ahead and top dressed the OG Kush with the rock powder mix and watered it in with molasses. That was yesterday.

This morning, I got up early and checked on the girls before work.....

1.)wow....what's that smell? Oh....my plants now stink to high heaven, over night.
2.)Wow....they're greener too, the mag deficiency is going away, even though I added no mg.....just a bunch of rock powder


This is going to work. Yep.

 

[OrganicTreees]

great news to hear man, I'm tuned in to see how this works out for you, I might have to copy your soil mix to the tee

 

[Hash Hound]

Doc,

Do you reuse any of your organic soil? Wouldn't it have a good batch of microbes and such already doing their job in the soil?

If one uses a regular potting soil that is not necessarily organic, does it still pay to use molasses?

 

[Doc Bud]

Doc,

Do you reuse any of your organic soil? Wouldn't it have a good batch of microbes and such already doing their job in the soil?

If one uses a regular potting soil that is not necessarily organic, does it still pay to use molasses?

If this High Brix thing works out, I'm going to reuse soil, but up until now I haven't done so.

Molasses gives the microbes energy that they need in order to break things down and start the feeding process. When everything is in balance very little molasses is needed. Maybe it helps a bit from time to time to supercharge everything, but other things will give them plenty of food, namely organic matter.

The main thing here isn't the microbes, it's the mineralized soil which the microbes live in and the foliar feeding.

I had a nice conversation today with a guy who does this kind of gardening professionally and does seminars and consulting. This is going to be very interesting. I'll start a new journal as soon as I'm up and running.

 

[spiffy]

I am a little late on this one but I am subbed

 

[spiffy]

You do understand that I haven't done this yet....right?

Mix the EWC into the base soil, along with the zeolite or perlite or volcanic rock....your choice.

The ratio of the rock powders is thus:
(Lime) 3 Lbs 9oz (6 cups)
(soft rock phosphate) 2 Lbs 9 oz (5cups)
(Gypsum) 1Lb 7oz (3 cups)

Mix 1 cup of the combined products (Lime, Soft Rock Phosphate, Gypsum) into each square foot of soil to a depth of six inches.

azomite: mix ½ cup into each square foot of soil to a depth of 6 inches.

Mix in your humus product and the beneficials as well.
You might put in a pinch of Iron Sulfate. (moss magic at Home Depot)
Lastly, mix in a nice general organic fertilizer....but not too much. Cottonseed meal is a good one here, alfalfa meal might also be good.

Make sure to line each hole for transplants with the mycorrhizal innoculant.

Water the whole thing down with a microbial tea....yucca extract is also very helpful when using the tea, I'm told.

Let it sit for 2 weeks minimum before planting.

Next, you want to get a foliar feed product called BrixBlaster or Amaze.

Once a week water with microbial tea, yucca. Fertilize as needed....you could use a balanced guano product, Fox Farms Big Bloom or other product like that. Maybe a bit of kelp from time to time, but take it easy!!! This system is supposed to supercharge nutes.

Once a week give the plants a thorough foliar feed with Brixblaster or Amaze.

That's it!

The soil, EWC and mild fertilizer is probably enough to see the plant through if you're using a larger pot. If not, you may have to feed once or twice, and might need to do a mild recharge of the rock powders....just watch the plants and decide.

This concept isn't about NPK.....it's a completely different idea. Calcium is the main thing here, also phosphates.

Ca ions are positively charged while phosphorus is negatively charged. These two ions when first put in the soil form a battery. The electrical charge can be measured! What this does is optimize the cation exchange rate of the soil.

Eventually, the positive and negative ions all meet eachother and balance out forming a substance that the plant can't use......but that microbes LOVE! As they go to work on the Cal/phos they basically recharge the battery and feed the plant like crazy. As long as the microbes are healthy, there is an abundant supply of Ca and phosphorus in the right ratio......the plant can feed like crazy.

The other minerals are also needed for various enzyme pathways, etc.

The NPK is not nearly as important.....as long as there's NPK in the soil, the bugs will find it, package it, season it, and deliver it to the plant like never before. You especially need to be careful with kelp and compost, as both are very high in potassium, which will mess up the cation exchange.

So......go real easy on the organic fertilizers.....this method is different from the supersoil! I'm going to try it with the supersoil.....but I suspect I'll get better results with a soil that is much less hot.

From what I've learned so far......the key is the rock powder and trace minerals. If plants will grow in the soil to begin with, the rock/trace will turn the battery on.

All we need to do is keep the microbes robust and happy.....just feed 'em a bit each week and add new recruits. Here's where your worm teas come in and perhaps a bit of organic matter from time to time.

Also, the yucca and foliar feeds.

I know this will work.....but I don't know the ratios for specific soils just yet. Stay tuned.

Would the soft rock phosphate be the same as using volcanic rock? I am very new at this so I am full of question. The reason I ask this is the worm casting I am using have kelp and volcanic rock already mixed in.

 

[Doc Bud]

Would the soft rock phosphate be the same as using volcanic rock? I am very new at this so I am full of question. The reason I ask this is the worm casting I am using have kelp and volcanic rock already mixed in.

Soft Rock Phosphate is a colloidal, clay based source of minerals, mostly calcium and phosphorus, but also a bunch of trace minerals.

Volcanic rock is way different....

The Gypsum, Limestone and Soft Rock Phosphate, along with the Azomite (or other trace mineral source) is used to mineralize the soil and support the microbial population.

Volcanic rock is a means of aerating the soil. I use all of it in my soil, but for different reasons.

 

[onegramperwat]

Hey Doc! Just mixed soil and gave it some tea. Hopefully in 30 days the cuts will be ready.

Been reading on High Brix. One of the articles stated microbes eat exuded root carbs, then excrete humic acids. These humic acids ionize the minerals which now become available for plant intake. Is this correct? Im confused why more minerals equal higher brix.

 

[Doc Bud]

Hey Doc! Just mixed soil and gave it some tea. Hopefully in 30 days the cuts will be ready.

Been reading on High Brix. One of the articles stated microbes eat exuded root carbs, then excrete humic acids. These humic acids ionize the minerals which now become available for plant intake. Is this correct? Im confused why more minerals equal higher brix.

Yep. It's a bit more complicated, of course, but the basics are exactly what you said.

Brix is a meausurement of sugar AND minerals. High sugar alone does not equal high brix.

The plant feeds the microbes and the microbes feed the plant.....symbiosis. But you can't just add Humic acid and get the same results! It's much more subtle than that.

The minerals are needed for all the enzymatic pathways in the plant's cells, as well as the microbes. The mineral balance in the soil also buffers pH.

But there's another half of the story: foliar feeding.

When the sugar/mineral content in the leaves increases, the plant makes more sugars and certain proteins which are sent down to the roots and excreted as "root exudates," which feed the microbes. Depending on what the plants makes, these exudates might tell the microbes to fetch magnesium and sulfur.....or iron and manganese.....or....you get the picture.

Phosphates are used by the plant to transfer minerals and make sugar, so phosphorus levels must be adequate, and calcium is necessary for all living cells and for energy production in the cell, so calcium levels must be adequate.

Basically, think about a rich, mineralized soil on a lush island that has never been farmed....that's what we're trying to create with all these minerals.

But wait! There's more!!!!

It's not just minerals +microbes + water= healthy plants........

The electrical conductivity of the soil is paramount, as is the cation exchange rate. This stuff can be measured and quantified with the term

ERGS Energy Released per Gram per Second.
ERGS are kept high and steady by periodic remineralization and being careful to have a good supply of humus in the soil......monthly nutrient drenches help accomplish this.

So, it's far more than just adding NPK Ca Mg Fe Z to the soil and watering with biologically active teas! That's certainly part of the picture.....but only 1/4 of the whole picture.

Energy of the soil
Cation exchange rate of the soil
Nutrients in the soil
Microbial action in the soil

I've been paying great attention to the nutrients and the microbes. I've been adding gypsum and lots of micronutes/minerals for a while now and it has helped the quality of my produce.....

But only in the last few weeks have I been learning about soil energy and CE......so I'm only half way there as far as awareness. There's no telling what is going to happen when I get all this dialed in.

 

[Icemud]

I am much more of an observer and reader than a contributor to your journals, but I would like to say I really like the in-depth knowledge that you bring to the table... just reading your ideas, sets me off on my own researching and new ideas and really want to say thanks for the inspiration!!!

I am really interested in the factors involving brix and going to be reading up on everything I can! Really awesome topics..

I was reading somewhere that when doing foliar feedings, Fulvic acid is great to add to the foliar spray because it is a smaller size humate molecule than humic acid and uptake is much easier thru the stomata and cells, as well as the fulvic offers many binding amino acids and acts as a chelate for the nutrients... figured I would share

 

[Doc Bud]

I am much more of an observer and reader than a contributor to your journals, but I would like to say I really like the in-depth knowledge that you bring to the table... just reading your ideas, sets me off on my own researching and new ideas and really want to say thanks for the inspiration!!!

I am really interested in the factors involving brix and going to be reading up on everything I can! Really awesome topics..

I was reading somewhere that when doing foliar feedings, Fulvic acid is great to add to the foliar spray because it is a smaller size humate molecule than humic acid and uptake is much easier thru the stomata and cells, as well as the fulvic offers many binding amino acids and acts as a chelate for the nutrients... figured I would share

Good stuff bro!

The idea is to pack the leaf with minerals and certain amino acids.....which increase photosynthesis in the leaves....which ultimately feed the microbes.

The main thing you want to get with a foliar spray is lots of calcium and aminos.....

 

[nugslinger420]

Hey doc I have a question, I use this stuff called "derma mag" to relieve joint and back pain. I was wondering if it would be a good source of mag and trace minerals. It says under ingredients "water, zeichsten magnesium chloride, trace minerals". Do you think I could use this a foliar feed or in one? Or would it hurt/ not benefit at all? I'm just wondering because it works great for pain relief.

 

[Doc Bud]

Hey doc I have a question, I use this stuff called "derma mag" to relieve joint and back pain. I was wondering if it would be a good source of mag and trace minerals. It says under ingredients "water, zeichsten magnesium chloride, trace minerals". Do you think I could use this a foliar feed or in one? Or would it hurt/ not benefit at all? I'm just wondering because it works great for pain relief.

This product is NOT a gardening product.

It is Magnesium Chloride MGCl2. It will liberate chlorine and royally F-up everything in your garden.

Use it on sore joints!

 

[nugslinger420]

Haha that's pretty much what I assumed when a Google search came up with nothing, but it helps to have an expert to ask. I'm going to stick to the kelp and FF big bloom foliar feed then! Thanks doc.

 

[onegramperwat]

When the sugar/mineral content in the leaves increases, the plant makes more sugars and certain proteins which are sent down to the roots and excreted as "root exudates," which feed the microbes. Depending on what the plants makes, these exudates might tell the microbes to fetch magnesium and sulfur.....or iron and manganese.....or....you get the picture.

This part is deep, the plants talk to microbes via exudes and tells the micros what to make available?

 

[OldMedMan]

Hi Doc Bud !

Long time no see. OG13 told be to come over and read your thoughts on making 2 colas or 4. I can't find it anywhere...probably skipped right over it.
I'm sorry to butt right into your conversation, so I'll just wait until you have time.
Thanks, OMM

 

[Doc Bud]

This part is deep, the plants talk to microbes via exudes and tells the micros what to make available?

yep. That's exactly what happens. The plant is in control.

 

[Doc Bud]

Hi Doc Bud !

Long time no see. OG13 told be to come over and read your thoughts on making 2 colas or 4. I can't find it anywhere...probably skipped right over it.
I'm sorry to butt right into your conversation, so I'll just wait until you have time.
Thanks, OMM

hey bro!

I wait till there are 5 sets of leaves and the top the plant just above the second node. This method will give you 4 nice colas.

Two colas can be made by topping at the 4th node, but there will also be smaller branches underneath, which you can cleanup later.