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Doc Bud: All Organic OG Kush SCROG

Doc Bud

New Member
Doc,

Here is what I just loaded up in a bucket for my next grow.
4 gl ProMix Organic, 1/2 gl perlite, 1/4 cup gypsum, 1/4 cup Azomite, 2tbsp epsom, 1/2 tsp Borax
6 tbsp Peace-of-Mind Tomato organic 7-4-5 (they were out of all purpose 5-5-5)

I watered it with a gallon of Stump Tea and Molasses. I will let it set until the next vegged lady is ready for action.

I hope to only add the Stump Tea, Molasses, and SnowSormUltra.
Should this be enough to get by with? Budget is low and I don't want to have to buy much more.

ProMix.jpg

COMPONENTS:
Canadian Sphagnum Peat Moss
(65-75% by volume)
Sea-based Compost (from composted shrimp shells & seaweed)
Limestone (for pH adjustment)
Perlite
Mycorise® - endomycorrhizae inoculant

Stump_tea.jpg

Bring Life To Your Roots With Stump Tea!!!

At HTG Supply, our employees are constantly searching for better ways to grow for our customers; and it was through this research that a direct relationship with the manufacturer of extremely high-quality products blossomed to produce Stump Tea, a one of a kind root enhancer! With this revolutionary ready-made brew, gardeners can now enjoy the proven benefits of compost tea in an instant liquid form (just add water)!

Stump Tea is a special blend of soil biology and beneficial Mycorrhizae that occurs naturally in the some of the world's most pristine forests. This synergistic mix vigorously inoculates the root zone and boosts metabolic rate by colonizing the roots with billions of "little helpers" that increase root size and production which in turn increases yields! Stump Tea not only has a great mix of biology, but it also incorporates soil conditioners and a few other natural ingredients to make one killer tea. Humic and fulvic acids aid in the uptake of micro and macro nutrients. Molasses feeds the biology so it can thrive. Kelp is an excellent source of natural micro and macro nutrients that are very easy for plants to take in. With all of the key elements that make up a great tea in one instant mix, Stump Tea has done all of the work for you, and ensures a perfect brew every time. Stump Tea is a proven, time-tested recipe that will impress even the most experienced of tea connoisseurs!

Stump Tea Benefits:

100% safe and natural ingredents create healthier plants
Contains beneficial enzymes
Helps to produce very lush, deep green plants
Aids in the breakdown of nutrients for plant absorption
Increases water retenton and enhances nutrient uptake
Enhances the taste of fruits and vegetables (raises brix levels)
Increases nutrient cycling in the rhizosphere (area around the roots)
Helps plants deal with enviromental stresses better, including heat stress and disease (great for fighting harmful fungus)
Breaks down toxins in soil and on plants

I think you'll probably want to add a bit of that fertilizer to your tea every now and then....but yeah, that mix could work.

You might consider spending 10 bucks on a bag of soft rock phosphate and adding that to the soil too. You'd have a nicely mineralized soil then. Nothing would be wrong with adding OC+ either.
 

Hash Hound

Plant of The Month: 2012, June 2021 - Creme de la Creme Photos: Dec 2016, June 2017
Doc,

The Peace-of Mind does say to top dress or use it as a liquid mix after a month. So will do.
Soft Rock Phosphate will be my next mission.

And I will toss some OC+ in the hole when I transplant.
 

Doc Bud

New Member
Doc,

The Peace-of Mind does say to top dress or use it as a liquid mix after a month. So will do.
Soft Rock Phosphate will be my next mission.

And I will toss some OC+ in the hole when I transplant.

No need to use the OC+ and the POM.......If you have enough Peace o' mind to top dress once or twice you may not need to OC+.

Stump tea sounds pretty cool!
 

Hash Hound

Plant of The Month: 2012, June 2021 - Creme de la Creme Photos: Dec 2016, June 2017
Stump is a little expensive. 14.95 for 4 oz. Hydro store guy said he is getting in larger sizes that will be better deal.
 

Doc Bud

New Member
Well, I haven't killed the plants yet....forgot to pH for the entire grow, didn't check runoff, no bugs to speak of, no lock-out, no flushing. I've done everything wrong.....just dumb luck I guess.

The OG's are getting harvested on Friday! They have plumped up, frosted and basically given me all they have to give. The buds are the most dense and heavy I've seen with this strain to date. They'd all be on the floor if it wasn't for the trellis, stakes, strings and ties.

There's a few shots of other plants going as well.

Next up, Lemon Paki, Blue Dream and probably a couple others.

I will continue to ignore all the important things for my next grow as well. Instead of paying attention to all that stuff, I'm going to pay attention to the soil: minerals, energy, microbes. I'm going to ignore the plants.....except to glance at them once in a while and take pics to prove that they're still alive after feeding them random pH food and water and spraying them weekly.

Well, that's enough sarcasm for one post!


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This is a new mineralized food I'm going to be using when I feed.
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Doc Bud

New Member
Primo Buds Doc, Natures Own Bio Mineral looks ready made for HB. How are you planing to use?

High Brix Student

It is specially formulated for High Brix!

It's made from:

BioSol Forte 7-2-1
Limestone
gypsum
soft rock phosphate

These products are ground into powder and are dissolved in a tea, along with Yucca extract. They are used both as a soil drench and a foliar feed, although I'm going to use a couple different foliar products to test them out.
 

HerbFarma

New Member
Hey Doc, D garden is off the chain as per usual. So much so, I am inspired to do some in depth reading on Marijuana plant biology and also the science behind organic and high brix growing.
Could you recommend me some links or literature?
 

Doc Bud

New Member
Hey Doc, D garden is off the chain as per usual. So much so, I am inspired to do some in depth reading on Marijuana plant biology and also the science behind organic and high brix growing.
Could you recommend me some links or literature?

I'd start by searching "Organic High Brix."

The pictures you just viewed above are organic.....but I have not yet employed the methods that produce the highest brix. That's coming next.

I did use gypsum and azomite.....quite a bit of it.....so the soil does have minerals, just not as much and not quite the same balance of minerals that is going to be required in the future.
 

OrganicTreees

New Member
speechless
 

Indicannabis

New Member
Hey Doc, hows it going. Ive been reading up on this thread for the past month now and Ive learned alot about organic growing, micro organisms and high brix. Ive wanted to grow for years now because I'm sick of buying med quality bud and shwag and only rarely I'll pick up some good kush. I suffer from anxiety and depression so I smoke weed everyday, basically I waste all of my hard earned money on overpriced bud and It kills me when I think of the buds I can be growing and smoking. Anyways I just joined this forum to ask you a question and maybe start my own journal.
I was going to use Subcools recipe but after reading your thread I think ill try your modified recipe out but with a few additional ingredients. Here is a list of what I have ordered, can you give me your opinion on how much ingredients to add to the soil?
for the base soil. I cant decide whether to use Roots Organic or Vermisoil, both will have to be shipped which will cost alot or would it be better to pick up a local organic soil.
So here's the list, I'm not sure if I could find Gypsum anywhere but I'm able to get the rest.

25 lbs. of organic worm castings (100% pure)
organic biodynamic compost. (Bu's Blend or mango mulch)
2.5 lbs. of Blood meal (12-0-0)
2.5 lbs. Bloom Bat guano (0-5-0, 0-8-0)
2.5 lbs. Fish Bone Meal (3-16-0)
3/8 cup Epsom salt
1/2 cup Sweet lime Dolomite
1/4 cup Azomite (Trace element)
1 Tbs. powdered Humic acid
Jersey Greensand
Gypsum
pyrogro

Additives:
SnowStorm Ultra
Gravity
Purple Max
Blackstrap molasses (unsulfered)
Bud Candy
Kelp Meal
Guano Tea
Worm Tea
Compost Tea
Pyrogro (water)


I know Roots Organic has gnats in their soil but I can buy these ingredients to treat it.

Crab shell meal
Neem cake meal
Food Grade Diatomaceous Earth
Beneficial Predatory Nematodes
 

Doc Bud

New Member
Hey Doc, hows it going. Ive been reading up on this thread for the past month now and Ive learned alot about organic growing, micro organisms and high brix. Ive wanted to grow for years now because I'm sick of buying med quality bud and shwag and only rarely I'll pick up some good kush. I suffer from anxiety and depression so I smoke weed everyday, basically I waste all of my hard earned money on overpriced bud and It kills me when I think of the buds I can be growing and smoking. Anyways I just joined this forum to ask you a question and maybe start my own journal.
I was going to use Subcools recipe but after reading your thread I think ill try your modified recipe out but with a few additional ingredients. Here is a list of what I have ordered, can you give me your opinion on how much ingredients to add to the soil?
for the base soil. I cant decide whether to use Roots Organic or Vermisoil, both will have to be shipped which will cost alot or would it be better to pick up a local organic soil.
So here's the list, I'm not sure if I could find Gypsum anywhere but I'm able to get the rest.

25 lbs. of organic worm castings (100% pure)
organic biodynamic compost. (Bu's Blend or mango mulch)
2.5 lbs. of Blood meal (12-0-0)
2.5 lbs. Bloom Bat guano (0-5-0, 0-8-0)
2.5 lbs. Fish Bone Meal (3-16-0)
3/8 cup Epsom salt
1/2 cup Sweet lime Dolomite
1/4 cup Azomite (Trace element)
1 Tbs. powdered Humic acid
Jersey Greensand
Gypsum
pyrogro

Additives:
SnowStorm Ultra
Gravity
Purple Max
Blackstrap molasses (unsulfered)
Bud Candy
Kelp Meal
Guano Tea
Worm Tea
Compost Tea
Pyrogro (water)


I know Roots Organic has gnats in their soil but I can buy these ingredients to treat it.

Crab shell meal
Neem cake meal
Food Grade Diatomaceous Earth
Beneficial Predatory Nematodes

That sounds like a very rich soil!

I think you might want to add soft rock phosphate and definitely find some gypsum. Home Depot has it. It's cheap.

Also, for a bag of soil, I'd only use 8 cups of worm castings. Also, instead of 2.5 lbs of blood meal, etc, please use only 1 1/2 cups.

With those adjustments, I think you'll have a winning soil. The DE will stop the fungus gnats, but you'll have a massive infestation if you buy roots.
 

Indicannabis

New Member
Thanks for the info Doc this helps me out alot. I saw some rock phosphate at the hydro shop yesterday so Ill be sure to pick up a bag this weekend and Ill check out home depot for Gypsum because I need to go there anyway.
So you suggest I forget about the potting soil and use worm castings? That would actually save me a couple hundred bucks. By the way how often do you water with teas and foliar feed? sorry for all the questions, this will be my first grow and I plan to do it all right so I can get results like yours.
 

OrganicTreees

New Member
Doc, why do you say there will be a massive gnat infestation with roots? Is it typically infested? I picked up a bag of 707 about a month ago and have used pretty much all of it. I did notice a couple gnats flying around, but I always saw one or two of them even with happy frog soil and they never stuck around long anyway.

Would using a layer of sand on the soil take care of them if the soil is infested with eggs? I might use some for safe measure since I have sand lying around anyway.

I'll be going to the hydro store next weekend to pick up a bunch of ingredients for starting my soil.. I really love the roots 707 I got last time, I notice better growth off the bat using it with new seeds. I want to try and keep it under $100 but we'll see if that happens. I want to cook up a basic soil mix I can use that isn't too hot, but rich in minerals, and I supplement any additional needed matter with EWC tea.

Would getting some compost be good enough to supply the little guys with food, or would it be wise to get some blood/bone meal instead to help boost the soil? I'll probably get the lime and gypsum from home depot, but I'll be looking for some rock phosphate and azomite at the hydro store.. Anything else that is of key importance that you think I should add? I don't mind if it's not 100% complete, as I want to use teas fairly regularly anyway and see their effectiveness on bugs, but still want something that will get me through the whole cycle with just a weekly tea
 

Doc Bud

New Member
Thanks for the info Doc this helps me out alot. I saw some rock phosphate at the hydro shop yesterday so Ill be sure to pick up a bag this weekend and Ill check out home depot for Gypsum because I need to go there anyway.
So you suggest I forget about the potting soil and use worm castings? That would actually save me a couple hundred bucks. By the way how often do you water with teas and foliar feed? sorry for all the questions, this will be my first grow and I plan to do it all right so I can get results like yours.

I hope I didn't communicate that you should nix the potting soil and use the worm castings....that's certainly not a good idea!

Use the potting soil for sure, but only use 8 cups of worm castings in your mix, not 25 lbs as you listed above! My recipe is listed at the beginning of this journal.
 

Doc Bud

New Member
Doc, why do you say there will be a massive gnat infestation with roots? Is it typically infested? I picked up a bag of 707 about a month ago and have used pretty much all of it. I did notice a couple gnats flying around, but I always saw one or two of them even with happy frog soil and they never stuck around long anyway.

Would using a layer of sand on the soil take care of them if the soil is infested with eggs? I might use some for safe measure since I have sand lying around anyway.

I'll be going to the hydro store next weekend to pick up a bunch of ingredients for starting my soil.. I really love the roots 707 I got last time, I notice better growth off the bat using it with new seeds. I want to try and keep it under $100 but we'll see if that happens. I want to cook up a basic soil mix I can use that isn't too hot, but rich in minerals, and I supplement any additional needed matter with EWC tea.

Would getting some compost be good enough to supply the little guys with food, or would it be wise to get some blood/bone meal instead to help boost the soil? I'll probably get the lime and gypsum from home depot, but I'll be looking for some rock phosphate and azomite at the hydro store.. Anything else that is of key importance that you think I should add? I don't mind if it's not 100% complete, as I want to use teas fairly regularly anyway and see their effectiveness on bugs, but still want something that will get me through the whole cycle with just a weekly tea

The Roots products in my area are INFESTED with gnats. We're talking swarms after week 3.....

If the plants are healthy, gnats really don't pose much of a problem, but if you're having any kind of stress, the plant can really suffer.

When I mineralized the soil on my OG's a couple weeks ago my yellow sticky traps became completely covered in gnats 3 days later. I didn't know I had all those gnats! But they sure hated all those rock powders.....

I think a nice gentle mix would be a cup each of:

blood
bone
bloom guano
greensand

8 cups of EWC
4 cups of compost
1/2 cup of gypsum
1 cup of high calcium lime (not S lime, or hydrated lime!!!)
3/4 cup of Soft Rock Phosphate
1 cup of Azomite
 

OrganicTreees

New Member
The Roots products in my area are INFESTED with gnats. We're talking swarms after week 3.....

If the plants are healthy, gnats really don't pose much of a problem, but if you're having any kind of stress, the plant can really suffer.

When I mineralized the soil on my OG's a couple weeks ago my yellow sticky traps became completely covered in gnats 3 days later. I didn't know I had all those gnats! But they sure hated all those rock powders.....

I think a nice gentle mix would be a cup each of:

blood
bone
bloom guano
greensand

8 cups of EWC
4 cups of compost
1/2 cup of gypsum
1 cup of high calcium lime (not S lime, or hydrated lime!!!)
3/4 cup of Soft Rock Phosphate
1 cup of Azomite

Definitely good to know, I would say I'm about 3 weeks into using it right now, maybe 4 and I'm only seeing a couple of them, so I'm hoping I just got a good batch in my area. I'll stay on the lookout for them knowing you had bad luck with it.. I like the texture and the results I've gotten from the 707.. People say it holds more moisture but I haven't really had that problem. I'll be sure to let you know how the mixing goes. Thank you for the guidance on the recipe. I'll be letting this cook for a month and then going nuts with it :high-five:

My hydro shop I know for sure has seaweed compost and shrimp compost.. Any opinions on which is better? They may have others but I won't know until I go
 

Doc Bud

New Member
Definitely good to know, I would say I'm about 3 weeks into using it right now, maybe 4 and I'm only seeing a couple of them, so I'm hoping I just got a good batch in my area. I'll stay on the lookout for them knowing you had bad luck with it.. I like the texture and the results I've gotten from the 707.. People say it holds more moisture but I haven't really had that problem. I'll be sure to let you know how the mixing goes. Thank you for the guidance on the recipe. I'll be letting this cook for a month and then going nuts with it :high-five:

I think you'll be very happy with the soil! If the strain finishes in 9 weeks or less, you can get by with a 5 gallon pot. Longer than 9 weeks I suggest using a 7.

Here's something to keep in mind:

I always added epsom salt to this mix, and still had trouble keeping up the the magnesium demands of the plants. Since mineralizing the soil the magnesium def's seem to have ceased.

So.....this time around I'm going to trust the pro's and NOT add epsom to the mix. The calcium/magnesium ratio is supposed to be 8 to 1....to 10:1!!!! I think I had it at about 1:1......and had some minor issues.

Remember, we're feeding soil, not plants.

Also, remember to use that soil on the bottom of the pot, not through the whole mix.
 

OrganicTreees

New Member
I'm using air pots now so my root system is pretty robust. If I take clones and put them in the 1 gal tall pots, flower SOG style without any veg time, they don't completely fill the pot by the time I harvest. I might try it out using the 3.4 gal smart pots and see how many roots I get, I want to keep wasted soil down to a minimum but also have a decent sized pot.. With these air pots you can grow plants in smaller containers because instead of the root ball just circling, it fills out from the center, so it uses the available soil space better.. Most of my current strains I'm running in flower finish in 8 weeks on the indica side, 10 weeks for most of my hybrids although they can be cut a tad earlier.

What are you thoughts of going straight to flower in 1 gal pots? they are a decent amount taller and never seem to get completely full with roots as it is due to no veg time. I know if I'm vegging it's a different story. I'm just trying to plan out the best course with my new setup.. I think it will take more playing around with it to figure all of this out. I know the rule of thumb is bigger pots = bigger buds, but with the air pots developing a superior root system than standard pots, I see smaller pots becoming a nice alternative to limited floor space.

I have been keeping my mother plants in standard 1 gal nursery pots.. They're super bushy, around 1' tall with many many branches from supercropping.. I then transplant them to 3.4 gal and flower when I cycle new mothers in. They never seem to get close to rootbound this way too.

I'll be sure to only use the supersoil in the bottom and just regular roots 707 for the rest.

thanks for your wisdom on this man I appreciate it
 
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