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Doc Bud: High Brix Q&A With Pictures

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Doc Bud

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Hello everyone!

My last journal was getting too long, so we'll switch over to a new one. What I'm doing on this journal is showing what I'm doing and what I'm learning and experimenting with in my garden. High Brix is where all the action is and that's what I'm all about. This is also an open forum for questions on high brix. I'll try my best to answer them as clearly as possible.

Disclaimer: If someone joins of page 18 or other random page and says, "What's your soil mix. What do I add to get the brix up," or something like that, I'm going to ask them to do some homework on their own. I will not post my soil mix every other page, unless something changes.

Here's a short description of what I mean by High Brix Gardening.

Brix is a unit of measurement that tells us how much sugar, minerals and other dissolved solids that are in a liquid. In our case, the liquid is leaf juice and occasionally a small bud. Average brix for a solid organic grow is going to be 7 to 10. Moderate brix levels clock in at 10-12. Once you get over 12 brix you're in High Brix territory. The highest I've measured to date is 17.

Once brix gets over 12, pests aren't a problem and it is very unlikely any diseases will ruin your crop. The higher the brix, the healthier the plant.

The high changes a bit as well. It's still strong, but its also softer and fuller. I've tried to describe it many times but tonite I'll say it like this:

Let's say you're cold and want to get warm. If you smoke organic or hydro weed, and electric blanket appears and you soon warm up. However, if you had smoked High Brix weed, a thick down comforter appears instead and you soon warm up. If I could get brix over 23, a naked nymph appears with the blanket. So, I've got some work to do. But I digress.

Soil Mix:

ProMix HP
Worm Castings
HIgh Brix amendment

Lot's of microbial products, biochar, humic acids, fishy ferts and groovy foliar sprays, all formulated by a lab for my specific soil.

4000 watts total light, covering a 3x6 tray and a 4x8 tray. The lights on the 4x tray are on movers.

The environment is 100% climate controlled. I can make it whatever temperature I want, anytime I want. Same with RH.

It's all in my kit!!!
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
So, here's what I'm learning at the moment.

In my quest for the stickiest, best tasting weed possible, I'm experimenting with different forms of nitrogen and changing the ionic balance in the soil.

Nitrates are readily available to the plant, but they also leach out of the soil easily with watering. Ammoniacal nitrogen (NH4) is different. It has a positive charge, whereas the nitrate (NO3) has a negative charge. Cation is positive, Anion is negative.

NH4 is captured by particles in the soil and are stored there until the roots and mycorrhizae on the roots break them loose and feed them to the plant.

When you feed with strongly cationic forms of nitrogen, like Ammonium sulfate or ammonium phosphate, you get these cations and it stimulates reproductive growth from the plant.

The question is when to add this?

So, I added at the onset of bloom on these plants and immediately noticed more triches than I'd ever seen before, right off the bat.

At the same time, I've also noticed that the buds aren't swelling as much as usual for these strains. So I'm hoping to change that by getting the soil back into the anionic range a bit, by feeding with Calcium Nitrate, which is rather unique.

Calcium is a very powerful cation, which will dislodge the NH4 and also boost calcium in the plants. The nitrate is readily available to the plant as well. This will very slightly favor reproductive growth and should bulk up the flowers a bit.

Next cycle, which is 3 weeks behind this one, I'm going to bulk up the buds first and then hit them with the cations and see what happens.

As you can see, this isn't your run of the mill soil grow. The stuff I'm using is very powerful and makes big changes. We'll talk about all of it as we go. The topic will be whatever is going on in my garden right now.

Stick around for a few weeks and you should see just about everything from seed, to cutting, to harvest.

 

shottafire

Member of the Month: Sept 2013 - Nug of the Month: July 2014
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Im gonna sit and watch this closely. Very exciting stuff your doing DocBud. I wish I paid attention in chemistry and science it was just that the teachers who taught it never made it fun, at least for me.
But seriously thank you for doing this.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Hi Doc Bud I believe True High Brix is the ultimate grow style for our plants since going through a couple of your Brix journals seeing the results you had and searching more on it because of you. I try to be organic / natural gardener for food and my medicine,I had the feeling of growing the best way til now. "Organic" brought up prices but can still be mediocre or low in nutrient density. The High Brix I learned seems to be somewhat easily doable from your tests, and recipe for ingredients on mix and possibly a kit you might have going on for a grow. This is where I come to a halt, Its starting a fresh batch each time because reusing soil (like I do) would require repeated soil tests That I feel would probably change amendment amounts and possibly need others too just like a high brix outdoor food gardener will do once a year not 4 or more for my situation.
Funds and space have me limited my question for situation like mine is there any problems possible mineralizing a dif used mix of soil?
Like say theres more NP or K in my mix maybe would that or other things defeat the purpose or become negative? not to use ur foliar sprays system just 6/5/3 mix with azomite and worm castings and compost and guano with other goodies to a used base for a mix to raise brix levels. SOme time I would love to run your mix right on , right now Im trying to improve my quality of medicine wit a low budget.
Thanks closetorganic
 
Thread starter #4

Doc Bud

420 Sponsor
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Im gonna sit and watch this closely. Very exciting stuff your doing DocBud. I wish I paid attention in chemistry and science it was just that the teachers who taught it never made it fun, at least for me.
But seriously thank you for doing this.
They don't make it fun for anyone, bro. I had a ton of Botany. Not because I was interested in it, but because it was required for my undergrad degree. I soaked in the info and passed written tests, but had zero practical reason or use for my knowledge.

Now, years later, all the chem, biochem, botany and even physics become useful. It's all I know really, as I've only grown vegetables until the last few years. But I'm passionate about this, so I pretty much take it seriously, like a mission. Sounds funny, but that's where my heart is.

anyways, stick around the journal and you'll learn the science from a grower's perspective. Instead of cramming knowledge into your head, we'll absorb it through our fingers. Touch, taste, smell......that's how we'll learn.

If you have a question, just ask and I'll try to explain it. The goal is for each of us to improve and grow better quality weed. It's time to raise the bar.
 
Thread starter #5

Doc Bud

420 Sponsor
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Hi Doc Bud I believe True High Brix is the ultimate grow style for our plants since going through a couple of your Brix journals seeing the results you had and searching more on it because of you. I try to be organic / natural gardener for food and my medicine,I had the feeling of growing the best way til now. "Organic" brought up prices but can still be mediocre or low in nutrient density. The High Brix I learned seems to be somewhat easily doable from your tests, and recipe for ingredients on mix and possibly a kit you might have going on for a grow. This is where I come to a halt, Its starting a fresh batch each time because reusing soil (like I do) would require repeated soil tests That I feel would probably change amendment amounts and possibly need others too just like a high brix outdoor food gardener will do once a year not 4 or more for my situation.
Funds and space have me limited my question for situation like mine is there any problems possible mineralizing a dif used mix of soil?
Like say theres more NP or K in my mix maybe would that or other things defeat the purpose or become negative? not to use ur foliar sprays system just 6/5/3 mix with azomite and worm castings and compost and guano with other goodies to a used base for a mix to raise brix levels. SOme time I would love to run your mix right on , right now Im trying to improve my quality of medicine wit a low budget.
Thanks closetorganic
Hey, welcome to my journal.

Well, I"m about to send off the soil sample for the second run of soil and get an amendment formulated for that. This way I'll be able to propely amend my own soil!

I'm using exactly what's in my kit, except for the experimental tray, where I carefully test out theories and crack pot ideas. So, I'm going to need an amendment myself!

Of course, I'll have a kit for second run soil as well as first run. They I'll get a 3rd, and so on, until it's either not doable or testing isn't needed.

As to your other questions, just know that mineralizing any organic soil is a huge improvement. Don't get all excited about guanos or fish....just mineralizing the soil makes so much difference.

If you can lean towards fish hydrolysates and chicken manure, your brix will be even higher. The foliar sprays worked so-so in organic soil. But they really work in the high brix soil. There's no comparison.

So, mineralize, lean towards fishy and chix, and youll grow some really nice product.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Doc,

Absolutely gorgeous garden and very interesting information. I always lurk in your threads because they're always loaded with tons of valuable information. I've been a fan of your work for a long time. You're another strong pillar on which the foundation of the best MJ site on the net, rests.

:Namaste:
 
Thread starter #8

Doc Bud

420 Sponsor
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Not all of us have a refractometer to play with, and even though I have one, I often run out of leaves to test!

I tried defoliating 2 plants last cycle, and while it worked as advertised for increasing yield and bud sites, the brix plumeted to 9.....the rest of the plants were 15-17. So, despite prevailing opinion, I have actual measurements via a scientifically sound method to prove that plants need their leaves. If you want to grow high brix, you've got to foliar feed. If you foliar feed, you're pretty much relying on foliage in order to do that.

So, when you run out of leaves, or you don't have a refractometer, how do you know how your brix levels are doing?

Thankfully, I've begun to notice some consistencies. High Brix territory is marked by the following:

1.)overall stellar plant health
2.)bright green stems
3.)bright green petioles.....even on strains that usually have purple petioles
4.)silly amounts of resin.

Here's a plant 10 days into 12/12 that has rising brix, but not quite there yet.



Here's the same strain in mid-bloom. Notice the green petioles.


Often times you'll notice plants that go from green to every-so-slightly purple. That's a sign that soil energy needs a boost.

So, how much do we feed them? Well, the little splash at the bottom of the bucket is enough Energy and Tea for 12 plants! This stuff is silly strong, and such a bargain compared to the watered down salty crap sold by so many companies who prey on innocent growers.


Here are some random pics. Some show resin on the leaves if you look carefully. The Cherry Pie might just win my affections! After the cationic drench, which is also loaded with sulfur, I finally have a strong smell from her! Perhaps this time I might learn why people think this strain is so great, other than just how it looks in the bag!

Notice the petioles and you can tell that today was a root drench day! Enjoy.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Not all of us have a refractometer to play with, and even though I have one, I often run out of leaves to test!

I tried defoliating 2 plants last cycle, and while it worked as advertised for increasing yield and bud sites, the brix plumeted to 9.....the rest of the plants were 15-17. So, despite prevailing opinion, I have actual measurements via a scientifically sound method to prove that plants need their leaves. If you want to grow high brix, you've got to foliar feed. If you foliar feed, you're pretty much relying on foliage in order to do that.

So, when you run out of leaves, or you don't have a refractometer, how do you know how your brix levels are doing?

Thankfully, I've begun to notice some consistencies. High Brix territory is marked by the following:

1.)overall stellar plant health
2.)bright green stems
3.)bright green petioles.....even on strains that usually have purple petioles
4.)silly amounts of resin.

Here's a plant 10 days into 12/12 that has rising brix, but not quite there yet.



Here's the same strain in mid-bloom. Notice the green petioles.


Often times you'll notice plants that go from green to every-so-slightly purple. That's a sign that soil energy needs a boost.

So, how much do we feed them? Well, the little splash at the bottom of the bucket is enough Energy and Tea for 12 plants! This stuff is silly strong, and such a bargain compared to the watered down salty crap sold by so many companies who prey on innocent growers.


Here are some random pics. Some show resin on the leaves if you look carefully. The Cherry Pie might just win my affections! After the cationic drench, which is also loaded with sulfur, I finally have a strong smell from her! Perhaps this time I might learn why people think this strain is so great, other than just how it looks in the bag!

Notice the petioles and you can tell that today was a root drench day! Enjoy.

They may need them to produce the Hi Brix number you speak of, but not to produce more bud(which is what I'm concerned with)
I'm not concerned with the Brix #.
 
Thread starter #10

Doc Bud

420 Sponsor
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

They may need them to produce the Hi Brix number you speak of, but not to produce more bud(which is what I'm concerned with)
I'm not concerned with the Brix #.
Brix is a sign of health. Higher brix=better health. Brix over 12 means no pests and no spraying for pests.

Saying you want more buds but aren't concerned about higher quality is what you're saying, even though you probably don't realize it.

As of right now, there is still a market for big, red, tasteless apples. The government buys them for schools, prisons and the military. But you would never choose one of those chalky apples if you've tasted a really nice high brix apple.

Same with carrots.

Prohibition has created some really bizarre practices for growers. Yield becomes the most important fact, because even low grade cannabis can be sold for profit. The higher the yield per plant, the more money you make. I get that.

We saw this during prohibition with alcohol. Many folks were distilling their own booze at home or in the barn or woods. It definitely got people drunk. Many people made fortunes on illegal booze but the quality would not be tolerated today.

When pot prohibition is lifted, hydroponics won't be very popular, and what we consider decent weed today won't be served anywhere. I'm planning on making my living as a legal grower of ultra high quality cannabis. I don't care about plant yield, although mine is quite good. I demand quality, and so will everybody in the near future.
 
Thread starter #13

Doc Bud

420 Sponsor
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Looking great Doc, I'm looking forward to what the "kit 1.2" has in store :thumb:
Me too bro! I'm not sure what will be in it at this point. I've still got to see if my latest experiment beats the kit directions or not. If it does, I really want to include this other drench. It produces resin like crazy, and early on too.

I also want to start some seeds in a mix with the Root Zone and promix, unamended. I learned just today that Root Zone is basically the amendment, loaded with beneficials. But the NPK,Ca,Mg, ratio's are exactly the same as the mineral amendment. So, basically it's instant soil. Pretty cool if you ask me.

Everything got a root drench today. By the book, none of my crackpot ideas.

I've got a Jack Herer going with 10 tops, each going to be over 12 in colas. Never had that before.
 
Thread starter #15

Doc Bud

420 Sponsor
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Loving the knowledge here.
That's what it's all about brother! We grow the best plant on earth, ever. With a plant that great, let's learn all we can about growing it to its full potential!
 

shottafire

Member of the Month: Sept 2013 - Nug of the Month: July 2014
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

That's what it's all about brother! We grow the best plant on earth, ever. With a plant that great, let's learn all we can about growing it to its full potential!
agreed.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Me too bro! I'm not sure what will be in it at this point. I've still got to see if my latest experiment beats the kit directions or not. If it does, I really want to include this other drench. It produces resin like crazy, and early on too.

I also want to start some seeds in a mix with the Root Zone and promix, unamended. I learned just today that Root Zone is basically the amendment, loaded with beneficials. But the NPK,Ca,Mg, ratio's are exactly the same as the mineral amendment. So, basically it's instant soil. Pretty cool if you ask me.

Everything got a root drench today. By the book, none of my crackpot ideas.

I've got a Jack Herer going with 10 tops, each going to be over 12 in colas. Never had that before.
That's awesome about the soil, are you going to add the worm castings to it too? Would adding like a bag of Alaskan humus be bad idea? I can hardly wait to see that Jack Herer. I think my last sour diesels had the same problem as your cherry pie, it was really nice smoke the usual brix smoke, got everyone super high (still getting phone calls for some...lol) and really frosted, it seemed to have no scent (at least to me other people said is smelled "dank as fuck"), I knew I was smoking diesel on exhale but I just couldn't smell it. I think you're on to something with that 2nd drench, it makes sense that it would be on the money.
 

Fuzzy Duck

Well-Known Member
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Doc do think other ammendments can be used other than calcium carbonate, soft rock phosphate & gypsum as some of these are extremely difficult to source in other countrys !

Calcium carbonate well thats pretty easy to get of or at least other forms of it !

Soft rock phosphate proved hard to track down a part from a 3lb box of it on ebay for £52 thats about $81 & thought that was a rip off, i currently supplemented that with bone meal as it contains calcium & phosphorus.

Gypsum proved extremely hard to source also !


What i did use in my last grow was volcanic rock dust sourced from a scotish quarie, mycorrhizal fungi, bone meal as soft rock phosphate replacement, Alg-a-Mic by Biobizz a Ca/Mg supplement based on cold pressed sea weed plus trace micro nutrients etc & my local water source being hard water which contains trace calcium deposits.

The grow turn out well with improved aroma & resin production unfortunaly brix was not tested but i am aware of some signs of brix improved plants :thumb:

I also have refractometer on order to test future grows with above alternative ammendments used !

I may also source the biochar product which is aviable in my own country.
 
Thread starter #19

Doc Bud

420 Sponsor
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Doc do think other ammendments can be used other than calcium carbonate, soft rock phosphate & gypsum as some of these are extremely difficult to source in other countrys !

Calcium carbonate well thats pretty easy to get of or at least other forms of it !

Soft rock phosphate proved hard to track down a part from a 3lb box of it on ebay for £52 thats about $81 & thought that was a rip off, i currently supplemented that with bone meal as it contains calcium & phosphorus.

Gypsum proved extremely hard to source also !


What i did use in my last grow was volcanic rock dust sourced from a scotish quarie, mycorrhizal fungi, bone meal as soft rock phosphate replacement, Alg-a-Mic by Biobizz a Ca/Mg supplement based on cold pressed sea weed plus trace micro nutrients etc & my local water source being hard water which contains trace calcium deposits.

The grow turn out well with improved aroma & resin production unfortunaly brix was not tested but i am aware of some signs of brix improved plants :thumb:

I also have refractometer on order to test future grows with above alternative ammendments used !

I may also source the biochar product which is aviable in my own country.
Other amendments than the exact ones I use can get you there, with a couple exceptions.

There must be calcium carbonate, and other mineral forms of calcium. If you can find some field stripeing chalk, read the bag carefully. If it says, "Calcium carbonate, 90% (or better)" you're good here. There are rock dust products in your area, just search for them.

Soft rockphosphate isn't used in the mix for phosphorus....most of the P in SRP isn't available to the plant for months. It's a colloidal clay and has all kinds of calcium and trace minerals. The clay is also fantastic for CEC, which is very important.

Just do the best you can, with what you have, and think CALCIUM all the time. Find someone who grows absolutely mouth watering tomatos and find out what's in their soil. You're on the right track....just think very small rocks and calcium.
 
Thread starter #20

Doc Bud

420 Sponsor
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

That's awesome about the soil, are you going to add the worm castings to it too? Would adding like a bag of Alaskan humus be bad idea? I can hardly wait to see that Jack Herer. I think my last sour diesels had the same problem as your cherry pie, it was really nice smoke the usual brix smoke, got everyone super high (still getting phone calls for some...lol) and really frosted, it seemed to have no scent (at least to me other people said is smelled "dank as fuck"), I knew I was smoking diesel on exhale but I just couldn't smell it. I think you're on to something with that 2nd drench, it makes sense that it would be on the money.
I think the Alaskan Humus is too high in potassium. Too bad, because its such a lovely product!

The root zone is basically predigested rock powders, organic ferts, humus, biochar and benficials. I did not know that until recently! I thought it was just rock dust and beneficials.

So, I'll give it a go and report back to everyone.