Doc Bud's High Brix Q&A With Pictures

[Fuzzy Duck]

re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Other amendments than the exact ones I use can get you there, with a couple exceptions.

There must be calcium carbonate, and other mineral forms of calcium. If you can find some field stripeing chalk, read the bag carefully. If it says, "Calcium carbonate, 90% (or better)" you're good here. There are rock dust products in your area, just search for them.

Soft rockphosphate isn't used in the mix for phosphorus....most of the P in SRP isn't available to the plant for months. It's a colloidal clay and has all kinds of calcium and trace minerals. The clay is also fantastic for CEC, which is very important.

Just do the best you can, with what you have, and think CALCIUM all the time. Find someone who grows absolutely mouth watering tomatos and find out what's in their soil. You're on the right track....just think very small rocks and calcium.

Cheers for that Doc


High lighted some areas i had over looked or was not aware off & i am pleased to know i am on the right tracks, hopefully in a couple of months time i'll be able to add a high brix journal of my own to the collection here at 420

 

[shottafire]

re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

I love this journal. Im not doing brix... yet. I am going to study the next few months and do a side by side journal with the high brix approach and experiment with it a little.

I worked on a winery when I was 18-19. I remember my uncle talking about brix levels with other wine growers but thought nothing of the sort. So I decided to give him a call and he is all amped that I have an interest in growing. First he asked what I was growing then he laughed and said pot. I had to say yes. He is like are you serious and i said yes. long story short I am going to travel up to the cc region of ca and talk story with my uncle. I know he has a tree and it is not a wine tree down by the creek. maybe not yet but he will. lol

thanks docbud.

 

[Fuzzy Duck]

re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

I love this journal. Im not doing brix... yet. I am going to study the next few months and do a side by side journal with the high brix approach and experiment with it a little.

Its an interesting subject once you start looking at it & i myself only became aware of high brix through DocBud in one of his first journals about it some few months ago !

I original took on the remineralized soil approach which influenced my last grow with some amendments with pretty good results but have a little more clarity on the subject of high brix now


What i did find out recently was about CEC & that was interesting, which i'm more likely going to take a soil organic matter aproach to my next grow to improve CEC than using soft rock phosphate clay stuff with the use of volcanic rock dust, CEC appears to be very PH sensitive tho for optimal conditions plus other related stuff which effects CEC.

Dr. William Albrecht he was kind of into this sort of stuff back in the 1920s to 40s finding articles to read from him or with mention of the fellow is cool beans

 

[Curso]

re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Its an interesting subject once you start looking at it & i myself only became aware of high brix through DocBud in one of his first journals about it some few months ago !

I original took on the remineralized soil approach which influenced my last grow with some amendments with pretty good results but have a little more clarity on the subject of high brix now


What i did find out recently was about CEC & that was interesting, which i'm more likely going to take a soil organic matter aproach to my next grow to improve CEC than using soft rock phosphate clay stuff with the use of volcanic rock dust, CEC appears to be very PH sensitive tho for optimal conditions plus other related stuff which effects CEC.

Dr. William Albrecht he was kind of into this sort of stuff back in the 1920s to 40s finding articles to read from him or with mention of the fellow is cool beans

“Insects and disease are the symptoms of a failing crop, not the cause of it. It’s not the overpowering invader we must fear but the weakened condition of the victim.”

-- William Albrecht

 

[Doc Bud]

re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Its an interesting subject once you start looking at it & i myself only became aware of high brix through DocBud in one of his first journals about it some few months ago !

I original took on the remineralized soil approach which influenced my last grow with some amendments with pretty good results but have a little more clarity on the subject of high brix now


What i did find out recently was about CEC & that was interesting, which i'm more likely going to take a soil organic matter aproach to my next grow to improve CEC than using soft rock phosphate clay stuff with the use of volcanic rock dust, CEC appears to be very PH sensitive tho for optimal conditions plus other related stuff which effects CEC.

Dr. William Albrecht he was kind of into this sort of stuff back in the 1920s to 40s finding articles to read from him or with mention of the fellow is cool beans

Yep. This stuff isn't new....but it has been suppressed by intensive corporate farming and the companies that supply such operations, like Monsanto. Bad, bad company. Google Monsanto GMO Roundup. They are the number one pesticide maker and they're trying to get a monopoly on our food supply. Neat, eh?

CEC is indeed pH sensitive. It takes acid put out by the beneficials to break stuff away from the soil.

That's one of the reasons the rock powders are so important. In addition to other things, they are pH buffers.
Humus has the highest CEC, next would be clay. Manures and other organic ferts do not change or help the CEC....they rely on CEC in order to be of any use to the plant!

Trust me....if you only amend with the 6-5-3 and do nothing else different, your grow will improve noticeably.

Here's an analogy:

Back in highschool I was a decent swimmer. My best time in the 100 freestyle would have won a gold medal in the olympics 60 years prior. Why did everyone get so much faster? Why are they faster each and every year? It's not like they didn't know how to swim back then.....but training has become scientific and therefore the athletes improve over what raw talent alone would produce.

It's the same with growing. We've got to bring science into the equation if we want to improve.

 

[Fuzzy Duck]

re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Trust me....if you only amend with the 6-5-3 and do nothing else different, your grow will improve noticeably.


It's the same with growing. We've got to bring science into the equation if we want to improve.

Aye i'm working on it & my current thoughts at the moment are...


Calcium carbonates alternatives - Garden lime pretty alright source of calcium carbonate/calcium oxide may contain other nutrients depending on source of rock it came from & being a PH buffer which is very easy to get hold off.

Other forms are egg shells, snail shells, marine sea shells these are all high calcium carbonate content.

Soft rock phosphate alternative - volcanic rock dust as contains pretty much just as many nutrients as soft rock phosphate also has a pretty good CEC with a PH value between 6 & 7.

Gypsum - Found a supplyer in my own country but only deals in 25kg bags to 500 kilos but ebay has proved useful here & awaiting to put my order in.


More than likely will use biochar as it has good CEC which the brand i'll be using is inoculated with 6 forms of mycorrhizal, worm casts & laced with kelp meal (trace macro, micro nutrients), i will also continue using bone meal as a supplement calcium source.


Compost used will be Biobizz All Mix along with some of there nutrients fish mix, alg-a-mic, bio bloom & bio heaven which fish mix & alg-a-mic can be used as a folair spray with all of these products being rated as organic & certified by OMRI/SKAL.


I like a little bit of manure tho

As humus is derived from decaying plant/organic matter aka compost & manures of a very well rotted nature which i believe is good for the microrganism population of the soil which in turn adventurely breaks down into fulvic/humic acids etc



I did have a reasonable hard time working out ratios tho which i based my calculations on metric kilo's & grams for the 6/5/3 amendment

10kg (10000g) of Biobizz All Mix compost.

Garden lime 600g
Volcanic rock dust 500g
Gypsum 300g

Bone meal, biochar, manure not included yet or at least undecided on ratio at present !


I did revisit soft rock phosphate tho about the mention of the clay particuls being good for CEC & was wondering if that was common charactistic of all clays ?

 

[Doc Bud]

re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Aye i'm working on it & my current thoughts at the moment are...


Calcium carbonates alternatives - Garden lime pretty alright source of calcium carbonate/calcium oxide may contain other nutrients depending on source of rock it came from & being a PH buffer which is very easy to get hold off.

Other forms are egg shells, snail shells, marine sea shells these are all high calcium carbonate content.

Soft rock phosphate alternative - volcanic rock dust as contains pretty much just as many nutrients as soft rock phosphate also has a pretty good CEC with a PH value between 6 & 7.

Gypsum - Found a supplyer in my own country but only deals in 25kg bags to 500 kilos but ebay has proved useful here & awaiting to put my order in.


More than likely will use biochar as it has good CEC which the brand i'll be using is inoculated with 6 forms of mycorrhizal, worm casts & laced with kelp meal (trace macro, micro nutrients), i will also continue using bone meal as a supplement calcium source.


Compost used will be Biobizz All Mix along with some of there nutrients fish mix, alg-a-mic, bio bloom & bio heaven which fish mix & alg-a-mic can be used as a folair spray with all of these products being rated as organic & certified by OMRI/SKAL.


I like a little bit of manure tho

As humus is derived from decaying plant/organic matter aka compost & manures of a very well rotted nature which i believe is good for the microrganism population of the soil which in turn adventurely breaks down into fulvic/humic acids etc



I did have a reasonable hard time working out ratios tho which i based my calculations on metric kilo's & grams for the 6/5/3 amendment

10kg (10000g) of Biobizz All Mix compost.

Garden lime 600g
Volcanic rock dust 500g
Gypsum 300g

Bone meal, biochar, manure not included yet or at least undecided on ratio at present !


I did revisit soft rock phosphate tho about the mention of the clay particuls being good for CEC & was wondering if that was common charactistic of all clays ?

Please don't use the garden lime. It will royally mess everything up. Use straight calcium carbonate instead. Dolomite, for high brix purposes, might as well be kryptonite. Don't use it.

Oyster shell flour could sub for CaC03.....but not as good.

 

[Fuzzy Duck]

re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Please don't use the garden lime. It will royally mess everything up. Use straight calcium carbonate instead. Dolomite, for high brix purposes, might as well be kryptonite. Don't use it.

Oyster shell flour could sub for CaC03.....but not as good.

I thought you would mention something about the garden lime & i'm pleased of a 2nd opinion


I've just been looking at making your own bone meal & i believe the same process could be used on sea shells... so ye home made sea shell calcium carbonate here i come

 

[Vapedogg223]

re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Aye i'm working on it & my current thoughts at the moment are...


Calcium carbonates alternatives - Garden lime pretty alright source of calcium carbonate/calcium oxide may contain other nutrients depending on source of rock it came from & being a PH buffer which is very easy to get hold off.

Other forms are egg shells, snail shells, marine sea shells these are all high calcium carbonate content.

Soft rock phosphate alternative - volcanic rock dust as contains pretty much just as many nutrients as soft rock phosphate also has a pretty good CEC with a PH value between 6 & 7.

Gypsum - Found a supplyer in my own country but only deals in 25kg bags to 500 kilos but ebay has proved useful here & awaiting to put my order in.


More than likely will use biochar as it has good CEC which the brand i'll be using is inoculated with 6 forms of mycorrhizal, worm casts & laced with kelp meal (trace macro, micro nutrients), i will also continue using bone meal as a supplement calcium source.


Compost used will be Biobizz All Mix along with some of there nutrients fish mix, alg-a-mic, bio bloom & bio heaven which fish mix & alg-a-mic can be used as a folair spray with all of these products being rated as organic & certified by OMRI/SKAL.


I like a little bit of manure tho

As humus is derived from decaying plant/organic matter aka compost & manures of a very well rotted nature which i believe is good for the microrganism population of the soil which in turn adventurely breaks down into fulvic/humic acids etc



I did have a reasonable hard time working out ratios tho which i based my calculations on metric kilo's & grams for the 6/5/3 amendment

10kg (10000g) of Biobizz All Mix compost.

Garden lime 600g
Volcanic rock dust 500g
Gypsum 300g

Bone meal, biochar, manure not included yet or at least undecided on ratio at present !


I did revisit soft rock phosphate tho about the mention of the clay particuls being good for CEC & was wondering if that was common charactistic of all clays ?

Please don't use the garden lime. It will royally mess everything up. Use straight calcium carbonate instead. Dolomite, for high brix purposes, might as well be kryptonite. Don't use it.

Oyster shell flour could sub for CaC03.....but not as good.

Hey Fuzzy... You may have already went down this road, but calcium carbonate has lots of commercial uses, like antacid tablets, field marking chalk, etc., so maybe look twards industrial supply? If it's chalk, just check the bag and make sure it's not calcium sulfate or something else. If you google CaCO₃ uses, you might be surprised at just how many things it's used in.

 

[Doc Bud]

re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

There is much more to be said about Dolomite and high brix...a google search will reap rewards. Here's but one of the many warnings:

2. How Is Nutrient Dense Farming (NDF) Different from mainstream organic or biodynamic Farming?


NDF is organic and sustainable farming with emphasis on optimizing plant health and nutrition for animal/human healthh. A nutrient dense farmer strives to maximize both yield and the health benefits of the crop produced, whereas mainstream organic agriculture community places emphasis on yield.
While some NDF farmers utilize certain biodynamic principles to augment yields and nutrtion – more on this in future posts on the blog -, the experience of the NDF community has been biodynamic farming does not deliver on superior nutrition for optimal health as NDF farming does.The foundation of NDF is science, drawing form many disciplines, whereas many things that organic farming does make no sense when examining the facts. For example, many organic farmers use dolomite, a high magnesium lime. The high magnesium level causes calcium to be unavailable to the plant and, ultimately, to us. Therefore, ignorance in farming also has played a role in creating a supply of crops low in nutrition.

Frequently Asked Questions «

Dolomite is way too high in magnesium and will make high brix impossible.

 

[Doc Bud]

re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Posted this in the wrong journal.

 

[Doc Bud]

re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Here's something slightly new:

My Tray "A" girls are ready for the Re-charge. Until now, I've merely top dressed with the minerals and watered as usual. This time, I tried something different.

I took the re-charge and put it into 5 gallons of water, along with 1 cup of Root Zone, 1 oz of Energy and 2.5 mils of Tea. It bubbled overnight at about 75 degrees. Everything dissolved well and as long as I stir vigorously, the "sand" stays in suspension.

I watered this mix in and we'll see how it goes from here on out!

 

[ILuvJuicyLucy]

re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Damn!
It looks like the Frosty the Snowman came through and askeeskee-skeeted all over those ladies!

Thanks for every thing you do for the 420 community Doc! You're doing an amazing job at setting the bar where it should be. I'm absolutely stunned with how much you've progressed, and continue to share your findings from one grow to the next. It's really appreciated. +Reps! I owe you some.

 

[Doc Bud]

re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Damn!
It looks like the Frosty the Snowman came through and askeeskee-skeeted all over those ladies!

Thanks for every thing you do for the 420 community Doc! You're doing an amazing job at setting the bar where it should be. I'm absolutely stunned with how much you've progressed, and continue to share your findings from one grow to the next. It's really appreciated. +Reps! I owe you some.

Thanks for the kind words! If you think you enjoy cannabis now.....just wait a few years! This plant can do amazing things if we let it be all it can be!

 

[Curso]

re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

I look at those ladies and am just blown away. Its inspiring following your grow's and growing the kit along with you is pretty fun too, knowing that it's possible for me to have results similar to yours (on a smaller scale) by following a simple set in instructions.

 

[Doc Bud]

re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

I look at those ladies and am just blown away. Its inspiring following your grow's and growing the kit along with you is pretty fun too, knowing that it's possible for me to have results similar to yours (on a smaller scale) by following a simple set in instructions.

thanks bro!

I honestly think I lack gardening skills, but I make up for that with my ability to read and absorb information. Gardening is a science and an art. I'm real good with the science, but I'm still learning the art.

Give it about 4 years.....

 

[Hash Hound]

re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Doc,

Even if those weren't high brix plants, the yield looks like it should be quite acceptable to any grower.

 

[Doc Bud]

re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Doc,

Even if those weren't high brix plants, the yield looks like it should be quite acceptable to any grower.

Funny you should say that....last grow I got my highest yielding plant yet, and it looks like I may eclipse it this time around. I've got a freak of a Jack Herer, I'll try to get pics of it.

On the other hand, the plants I hit with the root drench to stimulate reproductive growth definitely hurt my yield, but it also produced insane resin. I have no idea what this smoke is going to be like, but the loss of yield was pretty significant with those plants.

I'll be trying this root drench later in flower on another few plants and see how that goes. I'll also give these another dose of it just for fun.

Still have't been able to beat the kit directions, but this one root drench has promise, due to the resin production.

 

[Curso]

re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

thanks bro!

I honestly think I lack gardening skills, but I make up for that with my ability to read and absorb information. Gardening is a science and an art. I'm real good with the science, but I'm still learning the art.

Give it about 4 years.....

It's funny Doc I am the opposite, I get the art although I can not explain why, I am just starting to catch on to the science...lol

 

[Doc Bud]

re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

It's funny Doc I am the opposite, I get the art although I can not explain why, I am just starting to catch on to the science...lol

Hopefully, this isn't like musical talent, where unless I've got it, I can't be any good!

But seriously, I'm so passionate about this I'm sure my talent will develop as well. The plants respond with kindness....