DWC root rot?

Thread starter #1

Inazad

Active Member
Hi there,

May you helps me to know if there is a root rot or not ?

This White Widow has near 8 weeks now and I want to know if I can switch to flowering now ?

Do we need to do some specials tricks with the feed when transiting to flow ?

Current chamber temp : 17 C
Current water temp : 16 C
Current humidity : 50%



 
Thread starter #3

Inazad

Active Member
I have a good air pump (4x air stones).

What do you mean by still? what is z7?

You dont see bubbles cause I turned offf the switch (lamp, air pump, fans) to take picture without the led colors...
 
Thread starter #5

Inazad

Active Member
Still as in not moving. I wondered if you might have it off.
Z7 is beneficial bacteria that prevents root rot. You can get it on amazon. It's cheap to. I just added 2ml to mine.

You said your air pump goes off when you shut light off? If so that's not good if it's on a timer.
I manually turned the whole switch cause i'm lazy. The lamp, indeed, is on a timer on this main switch.

I turned it off just to take the pictures, don't worry the air pump isn't on the timer.

How works Z7?
 

The Germinator

Well-Known Member
Description
Z7 makes bad water great! Soil or hydro, bad water is the biggest problem facing growers today. Z7 eliminates root related problems fast! No more yellowing leaves, leaf curl, tip burn, slow growth, pH fluctuations, white mineral build up, brown slimy roots and slimy water tanks! Z7 is the "great growth insurance policy" that growers and store owners alike have asked for! Everyone can afford Z7. New Natural Technology gives explosive root growth and plant health for only 2.5 cents a gallon!.
 
Thread starter #10

Inazad

Active Member
I switched the baby into flowering.

I'm asking if the capacity (in gal) of the bucket limit the plant's height ?

If not, why my baby still at 12-13 inches ? Do I need to reduce/increase the light distance ? (I'm using a 600W LED eq. 300W from wall).
 
Thread starter #12

Inazad

Active Member
what have you done about the alges? I think they could kill the plant if you're not careful .
I've put hydrogen peroxyd (3%), will wait to see.

plant height looks fine to me , it will double in flower . I would defoliate now , it's not too late
what do you means by defoliate ?


plan ahead to lower the RH somehow , you will need to get it a bit lower later when the buds get bigger .
I have put my humidifer to 40%.
 
Thread starter #16

Inazad

Active Member
H2o2 will do nothing to algae ... those suckers will eat nutes and multiply and sufocate your roots , also they fuck up the ph,

you have to make the bucket light proof somehow, or just change with a black one , it's not like a full rdwc system it's one bucket.
I've covered all the bucket with black polythen.

but how to remove all the algae ? I don,t want to loose the baby at his flowering' beginning...
 

The Germinator

Well-Known Member
Green Algae causes:

Pretty Simple. Green Algae has the same requirements as our plants to thrive. The oxygen and nutrient reservoir is an ideal environment all it needs is some light.

Understanding Green Algae and it's effects:

Some growers think nothing is wrong with a little bit of green algae in their culture and even think it's beneficial in the vegetative state. This may be true but once they flip to fruiting it will cause nothing but headaches.

Green Algae, like any plant, uses photosynthesis converting water and carbon dioxide to sugars and oxygen. Sounds good right, super oxygenated reservoir, how can that be a problem. In theory, with a 24/7 light schedule, during the vegetative stage, and controlled growth of the algae it COULD be beneficial. However what happens when you flip to fruiting (or 18/6 veg).

During dark periods Algae will do the reverse. Absorb oxygen and give off carbon dioxide.Not sounding that great now right? Not only that but it will die off. That dieoff will then decompose in your reservoir causing non-beneficial bacteria growth and beneficial bacteria to focus on them instead of guarding against other threats.

I could go on about surfactant, emulsification, and so on but I think you can see where I'm going with this, so let's get to the treatment.

First a few key things:

1. Early Detection. I check my plants every day (you could say I'm neurotic). I start with the reservoir temp, pH, roots, and solution contaminats. Then ambient temp, Rh, plants, then pots.

2. Correct problems that cause algae. Temperatures and light leaks.

3. Stay calm.

Treatment:

Once you have solved the causes we can treat the problem.

1. Gently rinse off your affected roots to remove, and loosen algea. I use a spare line from the manifold of the top feed.

2. I use rapid rooters and hydroton in 3.75" net pots. I treated both pots even though only one was affected and I caught it early. Pour 3% H2O2 directly onto rapid rooter until saturated. For me this was about a tablespoon.

3. Pour 1 tablespoon of 3% H2O2 on hydroton. I slowly pour in a circle starting from the outside in and ensure that they are evenly coated.

4. Wait 1 hour.

​​​​​​4a. My pump has a filter at this point I remove and rinse off the filter. To get rid of any algae that came off due to rinsing and that came off with the H2O2. You can also use a fine dip net.

5. You should see a difference in your roots. The remaining algae should have faded and/or even turned brown. There will probably still be green algae visible we'll address that in the next step.

6. Lower your pH to 5.0. This will kill the remaining green algae.

7. After about 4 hours you should see a drastic difference. For me the algae that was on the longest roots were gone and the green that was on the small roots at the pots had turned brown and after 8hrs there was no trace.

8. Follow up the next day check pH, roots, and clean filter or dip net dead algae. Retreat if necessary. If there are no signs of algae add beneficial bacteria (I use Hydroguard) at half strength.

*Note
For extreme infestation use Grapefruit Seed Extract. 1 tsp per gallon.
( Thanks alltatup )

Hopefully noone will have to use this but here it is just in case.

Happy Growing [emoji172][emoji98][emoji271][emoji268][emoji91][emoji860][emoji100]
 
Thread starter #18

Inazad

Active Member
I used h2o2 and I don't see a major difference ? its like brown a little bit ?

What do I need to do, changes the water ?

Already rinced the roots
 

TheMadDabber

Member of the Month: Dec 2017 - Nug of the Month: June 2018
I switched the baby into flowering.

I'm asking if the capacity (in gal) of the bucket limit the plant's height ?

If not, why my baby still at 12-13 inches ? Do I need to reduce/increase the light distance ? (I'm using a 600W LED eq. 300W from wall).
Color isn't as important as slime. If they're slimy, that's bad. The roots will turn brown from The nutes does the res stink??
 

TheMadDabber

Member of the Month: Dec 2017 - Nug of the Month: June 2018
I switched the baby into flowering.

I'm asking if the capacity (in gal) of the bucket limit the plant's height ?

If not, why my baby still at 12-13 inches ? Do I need to reduce/increase the light distance ? (I'm using a 600W LED eq. 300W from wall).
Nope short compact plants means they are happy. Good signs. Just be patient. Roots need to establish themselves before the plant takes off.

And yes more plant size is directly proportional to the res size. However a 3 gallon hydro run will yield far more than a 3 gallon soil run. 5 gallon is optimal. 3 works. But 12 to 20 gallon totes are best for growing monsters