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Exceptionally High FECO Yields

Skybound

Well-Known Member
I think they're saying that light spectrums are the most influential to cannabinoids, all I was able to unearth was that more sulfur makes for stinkier buds and sweeter smoke. I was mentored in my hydro method, so stuck with it after my mentor moved on, but I used GH the whole time and did pretty well. It wasn't until last year that I began to mix nutes with salts which lead me to mixing my own nute formulations and hydro buddy and all that jazz.

What I'm doing now could not be attempted w/o first learning how to count out elements, and thankfully DB has NPK value to track, and also thankfully Farside made a thread about his homemade ProMix, which is the base component that his High Brix kit works with. So I was able to convert to dirt very cheaply, I just have to assume all of the risks in the event that I fail. So far though, I'm fairly proud of myself, lol. Things aren't going great yet, but they sure of going good and that IMO is a pretty good start.

I have a side by side of 2 big ass pineapple chunks, both in the same bloom 4x4, one is hand fed in potted rockwool, the other hand fed in my soil. Both are about on par with one another except the soil plant is a tad smaller, but bloomed sooner and has a better shade of green going.

FWIW, I'm a cash cropper whereas most here are hobby growers, so high yields are my priority. However, going into soil and running 3x more bloom plants, I can accept lower yields as my frequency tripled, so I'll get my weight increase, yet the byproduct will be better quality, lol.
 

Maritimer

Well-Known Member
Dang,
I have wanted to grow some Barney's PC but get paranoid bringing stuff in thru customs. I live in IL. and quality seed banks are not here. I been using a crew out in OR. but they don't fill my needs and I can't get them to order specific breeder stock. I saw 420 rules about seed talk so I am trying to be careful. I need a better bank to do biz with.
Seedsman once sent my package in purple gift wrapping that customs declaration tag was taped too. What discreet are they talking about? LOL
 

Maritimer

Well-Known Member
Was thinking about when @InTheShed mentioned "white light" in canapictures. I turned on the flash after I googled how that would be accomplished. Wow, now we are talking. Making me look good and green thumbed via genetics.
Cali Orange Flower Day #44.

 

Skybound

Well-Known Member
The only bank I ever used was Herbies, and before I ordered, I asked a few people to validate the shipping and legitness of their policies. I'm in PA BTW, so deal with the same deal at customs. For Herbies, I did both stealth and super stealth. My current preference is plain ole stealth to get the original packaging. Super stealth is in little ziplocks, and those in a bag of beads for necklace making or whatever.

One of my people gets a strain called Mac1, that after I researched, I find it's made in Oregon, but only sold to Oregon growers. Maybe ask your people if they can get you that, lol. I can't find it anywhere else but directly from the breeder's site.

My next order, I intend to try something in the states, but I want to ask around for input as I don't want to order from a place that assumes I'm in a legal state and therefor I want the contents of the package to be advertised on the box or package, lol. I learned that lesson ordering a quantum board from Amazon and the stupid ass box having a sticker saying Horticulture Lighting Group on the box. Like WTF man??? I was livid when that happened. HLG has no damn sense.
 

Skybound

Well-Known Member
Dang,
I am down to critical cannabis stash alert.
Look again at Cali #1.
I would hit that.

Need to take pooch for a walk in the woods.
Plant may suspect my intentions if she looks me in the eyes. :51:
I used to walk my dog in the woods, but I would always borrow another dog or two so they can all chase each other and pack up in case they encountered danger.
 

Graytail

Plant of the Year: 2014 - Plant of the Month: Dec 2014 - Nug of the Month: Feb 2015, Mar & Aug 2016, Dec 2017, Aug 2018, Jan 2019 - Nug of the Year: 2017 - Photo of the Month: June 2018
I learned that lesson ordering a quantum board from Amazon and the stupid ass box having a sticker saying Horticulture Lighting Group on the box. Like WTF man??? I was livid when that happened. HLG has no damn sense.
I got a contest prize from Cannabis Irrigation Supply (gear I had no use for) and the return label was ... yup, the company name ... prominently and proudly displayed. So ... they have turds for brains? :hmmmm: o_O Cold day in hell before I feel good about that outfit. :51:
 

Skybound

Well-Known Member
I got a contest prize from Cannabis Irrigation Supply (gear I had no use for) and the return label was ... yup, the company name ... prominently and proudly displayed. So ... they have turds for brains? :hmmmm: o_O Cold day in hell before I feel good about that outfit. :51:
Damn, how f@#$ing stupid can humans be sometimes? It's people like that that are in DIRE NEED of Homie the Clown to bust them upside their head with a sock full of something heavy.

Edit - not that I'm a good enough grower otherwise, but still, it's stories like this why I never entered in a 420 contest. There are certain hard lessons that I don't even wanna take the test!
 

InTheShed

Member of the Year: 2018 - Member of the Month: Jan 2018, Nov 2018 - Grow Journal of the Month: Aug 2018 - Plant of the Month: Oct 2018
Was thinking about when @InTheShed mentioned "white light" in canapictures. I turned on the flash after I googled how that would be accomplished.
Close-ups with a flash create a lot of washed-out trichomes that make it hard to tell ripeness. I would just bring in a desk or standing lamp and take pics just before lights on or just after lights out. Even lighting is much better for pics.
 

Maritimer

Well-Known Member
Close-ups with a flash create a lot of washed-out trichomes that make it hard to tell ripeness. I would just bring in a desk or standing lamp and take pics just before lights on or just after lights out. Even lighting is much better for pics.
I am going to set up for after hours photographs tonight. Should I turn flash back off with room lighting overhead? I can do both ways and see for myself I reckon. The picture looks like a whole bunch of white washed trikes that I think I want to hit. borrowed expression from our friend GT.

Anyone smoke pucks before? LOL not bad ;)
 

Skybound

Well-Known Member
is your molasses sulphered? mine says unsulfered.
AFAIK, the term sulfured as it relates to molasses was a packing gas used way back in the early 1900s, maybe even earlier and was used to preserve the molasses for long term storage. This is the sulfur that is for some reason advised against when making a microbe tea or similar applications.

What gets me though is why make mention of it if sulfured molasses is no longer sold? Things like this always make me second guess what I read. That aside, molasses still has elemental sulfur mixed in the goo, along with many other trace elements, calcium, magnesium and likely other stuff.

All of that said, I have been using Gramma's brand molasses sold at Walmart as well as other local grocery stores, though I do want to order either molasses powder for mixing, maybe even as my first amendment, or maybe the blackstrap you have. No rhyme or reason of course, other than to expand my horizons, lol.
 

Maritimer

Well-Known Member
Now I am confused.
I am using JR Peters nutes. 20-20-20 General Purpose for veg and Blossom Booster 10-30-20 after the light period switch until the end. When I was looking at Jacks hydro line in noticed different verbiage. Should I just be using the blossom boost for stretch only then going back to the 20-20-20 regular base fertilizer? Thats what the hydro package says. WTH

Jacks I got says this “Blossom Booster 10-30-20 is a Professional formula designed to produce more flowers and brighter colors on all indoor and outdoor plants. Feeds through both the roots and the leaves. This is the Original Blossom Booster with the proven 1:3:2 nutrient ratio– the quality is unmatched in the home gardener market. Trusted by many professional growers as a tool to fill out a blooming container. This formula will produce the same GREAT results for you at home.”

Jacks Pro Blossom Booster 10-30-20 says

“Use this high phosphorus formulation during periods of bud set to increase number and size of blossoms. Resume use of traditional production fertilizers for the remainder of growing cycle to avoid internode stretch. Great for vegetable production.”

I emailed Jack
 
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Skybound

Well-Known Member
Now I am confused.
I am using JR Peters nutes. 20-20-20 General Purpose for veg and Blossom Booster 10-30-20 after the light period switch until the end. When I was looking at Jacks hydro line in noticed different verbiage. Should I just be using the blossom boost for stretch only then going back to the 20-20-20 regular base fertilizer? Thats what the hydro package says. WTH

Jacks I got says this “Blossom Booster 10-30-20 is a Professional formula designed to produce more flowers and brighter colors on all indoor and outdoor plants. Feeds through both the roots and the leaves. This is the Original Blossom Booster with the proven 1:3:2 nutrient ratio– the quality is unmatched in the home gardener market. Trusted by many professional growers as a tool to fill out a blooming container. This formula will produce the same GREAT results for you at home.”

Jacks Pro Blossom Booster 10-30-20 says

“Use this high phosphorus formulation during periods of bud set to increase number and size of blossoms. Resume use of traditional production fertilizers for the remainder of growing cycle to avoid internode stretch. Great for vegetable production.”

I emailed Jack
Jack's is another one you don't want to order from directly as he has a proudly branded packing tape he uses to send his products to his clients, and he wants all within eyeshot to know that they're using "Jack's Nutrients", lol.

That aside, that's the brand I started after GH, but I used the 5-12-26 formulation with added calcium nitrate and epsom salt to make the very popular canna formulation known as Jack's 321. The long and short though is that I didn't like the 321 when I switched, so got to asking questions from people that made their 321 or other formualtions better, and bing-bada-boom, I bought a shit load of various salts to figure out how to mix my own formulations, hence the Hydro Buddy link in my sig. In that thread, I show how to use Hydro Buddy so you can input the numbers given on ANY Guaranteed Analysis that is printed on most packaging labels and compute all of the numbers to output elemental ppm of each element. Then you can compare all of the different nutrients lines out there ... before you buy any of them. When you purchase all of the salts (BOM top of page 3 of that thread), you can formulate to whatever targets you want. I tried about a dozen different formulations, many of which gave me grief, so before being done with hydro, I opted to try out Megacrop with Calmag as everybody that uses it does fantastic. So what I did, is load the MC formulation and the Calmag formulation into hydro buddy, set the doses, and computed till it output all of the elemental ppm of each element. I then used my various salts to make my own Megacrop and so far, I too am loving it.

If you want to take full control of hydroponics, it's a fairly windy road, but I already made a thread that goes all into every tangent blah blah blah, but if you want a super simple salt brand to use, I suggest you ditch Jack's and get you some Megacrop with either Greenway's CalMag or Botanicare's CalMag as they are identical, cept one is wet, the other is a salt too. Megacrop itself though low on calcium and magnesium, is formulated RIGHT! It is also simple to use. In veg it's 5 grams per gallon and in bloom it's 6. FWIW, it has very low P, half what I was using prior, yet I'm surprised to see better results with super low P than medium or high P. Megacrop is made by Greenleaf and they give away roughly 500 gram samples, you just pay for shipping. @5grams/Gal, that's enough for 100 gallons of nutes which is plenty for most hobby growers.

Edit - also, if you use beneficial bacteria, elevated P levels more or less inhibit the growth of Bacillus Megaterium which is the P focused microbe and in soil, I think it is a prerequisite for success, hydro less so, but still it's wise to be nice to the microbes, lol. Low P is being nice.
 
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Skybound

Well-Known Member
What medium are you growing in? If peat, you may also need silica for ph stability.

Edit- Farside and I think Intheshed both use MC with calmag and pro-tekt or other silica product. I tried adding silica in my rockwool and it was too much, so I dropped back to the sliver of Si that's in MC's formulation, and with my RO, it usually lands right on 5.9.
 

Maritimer

Well-Known Member
I am setting up for my next grow in January. The medium composition that you recommend to me while keeping in mind my penniless financial status is what I plan to be growing in. LOL
I have no real hydro gear so an amended medium I can hand feed. The costs to go full hydro will keep me dry for a good while I fear.
 

Skybound

Well-Known Member
If you're on a cement slab, the cheapest route would be DWC as the medium is fully reusable. DWC is a liability though and effort must be made to ENSURE the water is always well oxygenated.

Growing in rockwool is not cheap, but if you sell pot, it's reasonable @$40 for 2 cu. ft.

Flood and drain is also cheap and uses the same medium as DWC, but requires a water pump and some plumbing parts and flood trays. You can make your own F&D though for like $20 in parts.

If you have a decent or good soil, you can add supplemental ferts including megacrop, just alternate the ferts with watering to keep the soil salinity low.

Be warned, hydro can be very rewarding if you dial it in quick, but if things get out of whack, problems cascade fast and bad things happen. That's why I'm in potted rock wool, as that is super forgiving, just like soil. Maybe that's why it costs more? If you're considering the rockwool, I use both "Grow Cubes" and "Grow Chunks". The cubes are the size of croutons and is what they're nicknamed. The Chunks are 8 times bigger than cubes. I use cubes for small plants and chunks for big plants and that makes it easier to stay clean, otherwise large quantities of cubes move quickly if not wetted and weighed down.

This guy was my mentor years back.

 
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