Excessive Nitrogen Help

[tomatofarmer]

Last night i noticed that the lowest leaves on all of my plants had dry claw tips that are dark green. They were just barely noticeable. I think it is because of the new fertz and to much nitrogen between them ( i reduced the recommended measures by more than half?) I think its because the General Organics i purchased is for the whole life span of the plants and i applied the first dose (the right dose for its stage in flowering) in its flower stage. Anyways its really slight i might not even post pics its so barely noticeable, Not to talk down my concern of it though.
How do i fix this over Nitrogen problem?
Any input it appreciated

 

[DUCKEE 1]

always cut the manufacturers recomended ppm/ec in half. if its the very first nute feeding I would go with 1/4 strength and work my way up. less is more! now they are stressed and they have to recover before true growth resumes. slight underfeed issues just mean to up the ppm. if your base medium is coco keep in mind that coco has high (K) naturally, and mg and ca bond to it making the need for mg/ca additive that much more. K tox will lead to other nute deficiencies and lock out/ slows absorption of mg, mn occassionally zn iron. ideal ph for soiless is 6-7. As to the N overdose or any nutrient problems FLUSH FLUSH FLUSH and feed with 1/4 strength COMPLETE nutes for veg/flower. Always flush with at least 3x's the volume of container plants are in. I use RO+DI for hydro and declorinated for coco and peat. PPM for RO+DI=0 - pure water will disolve more than unpure and flush out all nutrient value
soilless=100-150 - this will flush out N P K and stablize coco absorbtion of mg/ca as to avoid another nute def.
monitor ec and ppm and PH of runoff water and that will help you keep everything in balance when fertilizing. also a high ec of runoff water tells you the soluable salts in the medium are higher than the plants. Thus creating a draw of nutrients back into the soil and locking out any nutes for absorbtion. Roots burn- pant dies

 

[DUCKEE 1]

what strain are you working with. that will tell you if they are light- medium- heavy feeders. but like i said before----less is more. Dont force feed them. wait untill they tell you. and always keep records in a notebook or something as to reference a strain or sub-strains. this will help eliminate the assumptions and provide precission.

 

[tomatofarmer]

The info is a big help, Im growing in soil, and they are bag seeds so i dont know the strain, the plants are already looking healthier. I think the General Organics (the Organic line of their products) are easy on the plants I dont Think there is any root burn. After i posted the original post i watered them with just straight water (more water then what i feed them with but significantly less then flushing) Even after these symptoms are clearing up i should still flush tho?

 

[DUCKEE 1]

did u do anything to them to help the issue clear up? If you are using a 100% organic liquid fert you wont have to flush as often as you would with synthetics. As a rule of thumb I will always flush at the first sign of anything. But with an organic fert like GO i would flush once in veg to get out excess N. And in flowering i would `start the flushing process the last 10-14days. Organics dont have the salts like synthetics, which require frequent flushing especially with high ppm feedings. Flush then give complete nute feeding. it sounds like it was dry and the EC started climbin

 

[tomatofarmer]

Only thing i did was water it, twice as much liquid as i normally feed it, no where near the amount to flush it. But i literally just looked my girls over real good and the only thing i noticed was that i have 1 limp fan leave branch on one plant. The orginal symptoms looked like there are almost cleared up completely. I am currently 4 days in since 12/12 should i flush or let them ride it out?

 

[DUCKEE 1]

if its clearing up then ride it out. flush in week 5 of 12/12

 

[tomatofarmer]

I was using alaskan fish fertz (5-1-1) prior to the new nutes mix of General Organics which also had sum Nitorgen? not worth rinsing out that N?

 

[DUCKEE 1]

naw just cut the go 1/2 strength and adjust after 1 week. i have used the alaska brand fish emulsion. it good in conjunction with unsulfered molassas and kelp powder. then i have seen they also have a bloom but i havent tryed it

 

[tomatofarmer]

Thats exactly what i used for my orginal mix, and was looking in to the bloom part made by AFF but i ended up switching to the General Hydroponic organic line. Thanks for the advice man