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First grow help

Ilyas

New Member
The plant came off the top at June 10 the strain is auto super hash but it’s not doing so well at first ph was raining every day and I thought the lights may be too close so I raised them and it turned a little bit more green but the growth is really slow, I added 200 ppm of maxibloom 6 days ago
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irie lion

Nug of the Month: May 2019 - Member of the Month: June 2019
Hey @Ilyas! Welcome to 420mag! :welcome: Good to have you here.
I grow in soil and do not have much experience with DWC. There are loads of dwc growers around here to guide you in the right direction though! They will need some more info on your grow to help diagnose the problem with your plant.

Check this link out to show you how to get the proper help you need:
How to Ask for Grow Support

:goodluck::meatballs::48:
 

Ilyas

New Member
Thanks irie lion.

Strain - Sativa 10% / indica 90%

pyramid seeds auto super hash

# of Plants - 1

Grow Type - Hydro

Grow Stage - vegetative 10 days old on June 20

Setup - waterfarm

Light - HLG 300 V2

Light schedule 24-0

Nutrients - maxibloom

Medium - root plug in hydroton

PPM - 200

PH - 5.9

RH - 50% to 55%

Room Temperature - 69.8 to 78.44

Solution Temperature -65 to 69

Tent size: 3x3

Pests - None Known



Problem: I'm having a yellowing of my leaves and very slow growth, there was one root that came from the side of the root plug and was exposed to the light and I covered it. Any ideas?
 

Barney86

Well-Known Member
Ah yes, that was easy now that I've read it properly.
I don't give them any nutes untill when you did aswell mate. I wait for the bottoms to go yellow first. Then I start at 200ppm ph5.7.
5.9 is perfectly fine though. Ph will rise naturally during veg so starting at 5.5-5.7 gives you the longest range before you need to bring it back down at 6.3-6.5 :)

The only thing you're doing wrong is you're giving them bloom nutes.
They don't have much Nitrogen. The yellowing on the bottom leaves is Nitrogen deficiency, ( 'N' def) so the bloom nutes will give you a quick fix as they do have a little of it. But the other 2 things in it, phosperous (p) and potassium (k) are for bud building so they'll burn the leaves if you keep using them.
You'd be best to get the same brand of veg nutes just to avoid by complications.


That light is pretty wicked too so watch yourself. I've no idea what height it should be but it's just about right going from the picture. Top picture looks like some light bleaching but no other signs of the associated stress so id say you were like 8 Inches too close.
Raise it a foot maybe just to be safe.

Also, the title says dwc but that looks like a hydroton recirc/drip system?
And what is that collar looking thing around the plant?
 
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Ilyas

New Member
Ah yes, that was easy now that I've read it properly.
I don't give them any nutes untill when you did aswell mate. I wait for the bottoms to go yellow first. Then I start at 200ppm ph5.7.
5.9 is perfectly fine though. Ph will rise naturally during veg so starting at 5.5-5.7 gives you the longest range before you need to bring it back down at 6.3-6.5 :)

The only thing you're doing wrong is you're giving them bloom nutes.
They don't have much Nitrogen. The yellowing on the bottom leaves is Nitrogen deficiency, ( 'N' def) so the bloom nutes will give you a quick fix as they do have a little of it. But the other 2 things in it, prosperous (p) and potassium (k) are for bud building so they'll burn the leaves if you keep using them.
You'd be best to get the same brand of veg nutes just to avoid by complications.


That light is pretty wicked too so watch yourself. I've no idea what height it should be but it's just about right going from the picture. Top picture looks like some light bleaching but no other signs of the associated stress so id say you were like 8 Inches too close.
Raise it a foot maybe just to be safe.

Also, the title says dwc but that looks like a hydroton recirc/drip system?
And what is that collar looking thing around the plant?
Thanks man I’m going to buy maxi grow which is the veg nutes and same brand and yeah I’m using a waterfarm this oneA076C55B-3F3C-4CEF-8B2E-B3F55D187FBC.jpeg
And thanks again for your help. :thumb:
 

Barney86

Well-Known Member
No worries mate, I'm always happy to help out where I can.
A few guys spoon fed me for a while so it's nice to pass on the trade secrets.
It's what makes the world go round :)

Stay at 200ppm untill it starts dropping by 10ppm per day for a few days or the bottoms go yellow again. At least another 10-14 days.
Then go up to 300ppm untill that starts dropping.
Once the 300ppm feed is dropping by 10-20ppm per day go to 450ppm and you shouldn't need to go higher than that untill they hit the stretch.
If you get 20 a day drop at 450 go to 800, it will catch up soon enough.

In simple terms, just add on 50% nutes each time you get the 10-20ppm per day drop or you see yellow at the bottom.

If you feed like that, the ph will behave itself as best it can and you rarely if ever need to ph adjust it.

The ppm drop is directly related to many things but mostly it's the size of the root mass, which grows exponentially.
If you take the piss with high reservoir temps then that will throw it well off due to evaporation but I run mine at 25-27*c most of the time and never had any issues.

I don't even use a res cleaner anymore.
I should really tell you that it's essential to use something to keep the res clean.
Iether a sterilizing agent that kills all bacteria.
Or beneficial bacteria that will apparently do lots of lovely things but I've never used them tbh. See some crazy white, thick ass noodle root systems growing with them though.

Sterile is the easiest option as the chlorine in your tap water becomes a benefit :)
That would kill beneficial bacteria if you used them though.

You sound like me though mate. Just want an easy grow. That says sterile all the way.
If you can find sm-90 on eBay then get that. Even if it's diluted it wouldn't make a difference. A single 5ml dose on res change day will fix any root issues in an instant.

Most people use these things as a precautionary measure and that is 100% the right thing to do but worst case scenario you can run a few ml of bleach through a few times to kill any badness then just empty it straight back out and carry on :)

Empty the nutes every 7-10 days and you shouldn't ever get any problems :)
 

Ilyas

New Member
No worries mate, I'm always happy to help out where I can.
A few guys spoon fed me for a while so it's nice to pass on the trade secrets.
It's what makes the world go round :)

Stay at 200ppm untill it starts dropping by 10ppm per day for a few days or the bottoms go yellow again. At least another 10-14 days.
Then go up to 300ppm untill that starts dropping.
Once the 300ppm feed is dropping by 10-20ppm per day go to 450ppm and you shouldn't need to go higher than that untill they hit the stretch.
If you get 20 a day drop at 450 go to 800, it will catch up soon enough.

In simple terms, just add on 50% nutes each time you get the 10-20ppm per day drop or you see yellow at the bottom.

If you feed like that, the ph will behave itself as best it can and you rarely if ever need to ph adjust it.

The ppm drop is directly related to many things but mostly it's the size of the root mass, which grows exponentially.
If you take the piss with high reservoir temps then that will throw it well off due to evaporation but I run mine at 25-27*c most of the time and never had any issues.

I don't even use a res cleaner anymore.
I should really tell you that it's essential to use something to keep the res clean.
Iether a sterilizing agent that kills all bacteria.
Or beneficial bacteria that will apparently do lots of lovely things but I've never used them tbh. See some crazy white, thick ass noodle root systems growing with them though.

Sterile is the easiest option as the chlorine in your tap water becomes a benefit :)
That would kill beneficial bacteria if you used them though.

You sound like me though mate. Just want an easy grow. That says sterile all the way.
If you can find sm-90 on eBay then get that. Even if it's diluted it wouldn't make a difference. A single 5ml dose on res change day will fix any root issues in an instant.

Most people use these things as a precautionary measure and that is 100% the right thing to do but worst case scenario you can run a few ml of bleach through a few times to kill any badness then just empty it straight back out and carry on :)

Empty the nutes every 7-10 days and you shouldn't ever get any problems :)
Thank you so much for all the information you rock dude.
 

Barney86

Well-Known Member
Thanks Mr flip :)
One more thing @Ilyas is you might need calmag. Depends your water,nutes, lights, size of the plants, lots of things but you'll need it eventually at some point.
I'm assuming you're using tap water as you never mentioned otherwise?
If you're using ro or filtered water you will need it.
Personally I use vitalink calmag as it has added iron. When you've got explosive hydro growth iron def tends to pop up a lot. Especially if your on minimalist nutes.
It's got added N which puts people off but you don't need much iether way so it doesn't make a difference unless you use too much of it.
 

Barney86

Well-Known Member
Oh I got the calmag on the shelf just in case and yeah I’m using tap water, the veg nutes are coming today :thumb:
Happy days mate. That should be you all sorted then. If the mid growth starts to lose colour and go blotchy or you get little rusty spots appearing then that's your cue to hit the calmag.
Should be a couple more weeks at least before you need to worry about it but when/if it happens, give it quarter the recomended dose and that should be enough cos there will be plenty in your water.

Most people feed calmag
pre-emptively on the assumption that it will be needed but my advice would be to wait and see.
You might not need it till you switch the lights. Might not need it at all.

No point giving them anything they don't ask for in my opinion.
Too much of one nute can completely block out other nutes so by feeding this way there's zero chance of anything weird like that happening and you getting a wrong diagnosis because it looks like a deficit. It happens a lot lol.

Also by waiting for deficits before bumping anything up you not only save massively on your nute bill (at least 60-70%) but you completely eliminate the possibility of all tox problems which can cause a fair bit of damage and potentially kill them.
A little yellowing here and there every few weeks doesn't hurt them at all as long as you're expecting it.

Is it just calmag or is there iron in it too?
If it's got iron then you can use that to treat yellowing new growth aswell.
That's the only other thing that can possibly go wrong.

And now you know literally all there is to hydro growing. That's it pretty much covered, as far as the reservoir goes anyway :)

Measure ppm to numbers stated before.
Bottoms go yellow up the base nutes.
Mids fade and go blotchy or rusty give them calmag.
Tops go yellow they need iron.
Start at ph 5.5-5.7 for veg and 6.2-6.5 for bloom. Adjust back if it hits iether end.
If shit gets smelly or gunge in the res then run literally 3-5ml of bleach through it with a full res of water then flush with water then reset the res. Shouldn't need to anyway if you empty it every 7-10 days.
Done.
Hydro explained in 83 words and a few numbers haha that must be some sort of record.
 

Dr Fish

Well-Known Member
I don't have any stand alone WF grows, but here's a thread of a couple of my modified WFs.. I've used the single WFs but the heat in the summer months got to be to much for the farms.. I had to switch to coco/perlite in the summer.. You ph swing will settle down once the plant becomes established.
 
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