First grow question

NoobgrowerS

NoobgrowerS

Active Member
Hi. Toyally noob here trying to grow 2 ladies (Northern Lights-00seeds) and have a couple of questins.

Today my ladies are at day 15 counteing from the day the first fan leafs grew. I have topped above the 2nd node and that seems to workes out fine.

I run 18/6 in a 2x2 grow tent and i wonder if the ventilation must be turned on during the 6 hrs the lights are off?
Today all fans are off when light goes out.

Then i wonder if i can get what you guys think of my ladies in general, do they look ok? I think so, but hey! I'm a noob ;)
I've tied one of them down a little to expose leafs under for light. Is that a good thing to do, or should i just leave it as it is?

Suggestions, tips and trick are much appreciated. Many thanks!
IMG_20180613_122253.jpg

IMG_20180613_122253.jpg

 
In my humble opinion, your girls look great. I tend to top mine after the 4th node but it's all about personal preference and also depends on strain. Topping a little bit later allows more branches beneath your topping node to develop. Food for thought......

I run a bigger grow so my fans are on all of the time, especially by 6in that runs my charcoal filter. Otherwise, it's just a great idea to keep the air circulating around your girls so that you don't get any hot spots in your tent and also so that you do not develop any excess moisture in your pot, underneath your leaves or anywhere else undesirable for that matter. Air circulation is not a bad thing, unless your fan is growing blowing directly on your leaves which can cause wind burn on some strains.

Nice job!
 
Thanks!
I wiil have my outlet fan on toninght for tha air to circulate. I have a small fan that is connected to the same connection as the light, so that fan will turn off as the light goes off.

Thanks again! Will start a grow journal when i get time ;)
IMG_20180613_140926.jpg

IMG_20180613_140926.jpg

Growtent
 
Nice little LED setup you've got there..... I love those little two by two tents. I've got one of those laid on its side for my cloning area.
 
Ditto to what Guy said. Normally top at node 4 and my fans are not on the timer with the light, they run all the time. Just built a Bridgelux light myself on Monday. How many strips you running and what kind of wattage? I've got 15 of the 22 inch strips, also 3500. Approximately 300 watts in a 32"x32" tent. Just upgraded from 4 old Mars 300's that I used for about 3 years.

IMG_20180611_181902.jpg

IMG_20180611_181902.jpg

 
farside05 said:
Ditto to what Guy said. Normally top at node 4 and my fans are not on the timer with the light, they run all the time. Just built a Bridgelux light myself on Monday. How many strips you running and what kind of wattage? I've got 15 of the 22 inch strips, also 3500. Approximately 300 watts in a 32"x32" tent. Just upgraded from 4 old Mars 300's that I used for about 3 years.

IMG_20180611_181902.jpg

IMG_20180611_181902.jpg

Click to expand...
Damn! That rig looks fantastic. I just may have to give my rig a liitle more love ;).
I went for the recomendations from Ledgardeners guide for a 2x2 tent - DIY LED Strip Build Designs for Samsung H-Series, F-Series, Q-Series, and Bridgelux EB Gen.2 - LED Gardener
However, i had to make some changes in my desigt due to the fact i generally makes mistakes when i try to think, and it was not different this time either :p.
I had already placed order for 12 1ft strips but i should have ordered 6 2ft strips. Well, already shipped i just mounted 2 on each. A little more wireing but i worked out well.

From Ledg:
  • We’ll shoot for around 30 watts per square foot and aim to drive the strips at about 75% of their rated max.
"Diode Count: 672

System Voltage: 19.6V

System Current: 6,000mA

System Power: 117.6W

Lumen Estimate (3000K): 20,160

Efficacy: 171 lm/w"
 
NoobgrowerS said:
Damn! That rig looks fantastic. I just may have to give my rig a liitle more love ;).
I went for the recomendations from Ledgardeners guide for a 2x2 tent - DIY LED Strip Build Designs for Samsung H-Series, F-Series, Q-Series, and Bridgelux EB Gen.2 - LED Gardener
However, i had to make some changes in my desigt due to the fact i generally makes mistakes when i try to think, and it was not different this time either :p.
I had already placed order for 12 1ft strips but i should have ordered 6 2ft strips. Well, already shipped i just mounted 2 on each. A little more wireing but i worked out well.

From Ledg:
  • We’ll shoot for around 30 watts per square foot and aim to drive the strips at about 75% of their rated max.
"Diode Count: 672

System Voltage: 19.6V

System Current: 6,000mA

System Power: 117.6W

Lumen Estimate (3000K): 20,160

Efficacy: 171 lm/w"
Click to expand...

I went with Ledgardner's 3x3 build. Made ordering parts pretty easy. Not that I'm not capable of learning how to choose drivers, etc, it just seemed easier to take someone's advice that's well versed on the subject. I priced each build and the Bridgelux strips came out the winner. Prices on them dropped quite a bit from the time he originally wrote the article whereas the Samsung strips went up a hair. The increased Number of strips over the Samsung builds did increase the workload but I think it should give more even coverage.

NoobgrowerS said:
They are living in planting soil with NPK 14-7-15, have not started with nutes yet.
Click to expand...

That should get em through a while.
 
Farside and noob, your lights are a thing of beauty! Definitely all over the LED builds once I can afford it lol.

Noob, your soil.....what is it?

I don't want to make you paranoid, butttt....... and there's always a but.....

The reason I ask is because we generally tell Growers to not get anything with any slow-release nutrients in it (your NPK). The reason is that has you water, you are releasing those slow-release nutrients and allowing them to be taken up by your plant. The problem is that you are unable to dictate how much of those fertilizers are being taken up by your plant or made available at any given time when you water because it is only in the soil. As you add more fertilizers at the rate recommended by your chosen company, it starts making matters worse. As of now they may look beautiful, but before I switched them over to flower I would definitely be considering changing the soil out that they are in...... this may seem like a crazy precaution, but I've seen it happen on here dozens of times. Also, when you go to flush because you think that it's something you've done to your plants, it ends up making matters worse because you end up releasing more nutrients.

Food for thought....
 
Guy Cavallero said:
Farside and noob, your lights are a thing of beauty! Definitely all over the LED builds once I can afford it lol.

Noob, your soil.....what is it?

I don't want to make you paranoid, butttt....... and there's always a but.....

The reason I ask is because we generally tell Growers to not get anything with any slow-release nutrients in it (your NPK). The reason is that has you water, you are releasing those slow-release nutrients and allowing them to be taken up by your plant. The problem is that you are unable to dictate how much of those fertilizers are being taken up by your plant or made available at any given time when you water because it is only in the soil. As you add more fertilizers at the rate recommended by your chosen company, it starts making matters worse. As of now they may look beautiful, but before I switched them over to flower I would definitely be considering changing the soil out that they are in...... this may seem like a crazy precaution, but I've seen it happen on here dozens of times. Also, when you go to flush because you think that it's something you've done to your plants, it ends up making matters worse because you end up releasing more nutrients.

Food for thought....
Click to expand...

I use hasselfors planting soil.
Translated by Google:
"Properties of P-soil from Hasselfors, 50 l P-soil is a planting soil from Hasselfors, which is ideal for re-training and further cultivation when propagating with seeds or cuttings or to ordinary potted plants. The soil is especially suitable for plants with long cultivation time and high nutritional needs, such as geraniums and begonia. P soil can also be used as a soil improvement when planting trees, shrubs and perennials outdoors, and it is useful to cultivate edible plants in it. A true classic in the garden of Sweden that fits all kinds of planting both inside and out. The soil is dark and mellow thanks to the addition of a large proportion of black peat that binds moisture and nutrition until the plants need it. The soil is medium fertilized with mineral fertilizer that is easily accessible for the plants to root and grow rapidly. The planting soil is calcined to pH 6.0 and fertilized with mineral fertilizers containing all nutrients, including micronutrients. P soil also contains the ingredient Rotkraft consisting of concentrated natural humic acids. It is a group of organic substances that are added more to promote healthy, viable roots. The root formation is stimulated and the plant nutrients are absorbed and utilized optimally. For the benefit of the plant, the environment and you. Composition Light and dark peat, sand, lime, mineral fertilizer, Rotkraft
Conductivity: 45 mS / m

Added nutrition per m3
NPK 14-7-15 mkro 1.5 kg
Micro nutrition 0.05 kg

Added amount in mg / l
Nitrogen (N): 240
Phosphorus (F): 70
Potassium (K): 250
Magnesium (Mg): 200
Calcium (Ca): 350
Sulfur (S): 120
Drill (B): 0.5
Copper (Cu): 1.7
Iron (Fe): 70
Manganese (Mn): 20
Molybdenum (Mo): 0.7
Zinc (Zn): 4.0
 
Hello guys and gals. I am also a new person trying to grow my first batch of white widow. Have had no problems to get the seeds to sprout but when I moved out to the greenhouse then my problems seemed to start.

My greenhouse is approx. 10 feet wide 30 feet long and 8 feet high. Have plenty of room.

How important is it to have air movement in the greenhouse it is very humid in there even on an overcast day.

I am currently watering my plants twice a day with them taking the most water in the mornings.

Looking for someone to talk me through my first time of this process. . . .

Hope to hear from a couple of great people.

Thanks in advance

D
 

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NoobgrowerS said:
I use hasselfors planting soil.
Translated by Google:
"Properties of P-soil from Hasselfors, 50 l P-soil is a planting soil from Hasselfors, which is ideal for re-training and further cultivation when propagating with seeds or cuttings or to ordinary potted plants. The soil is especially suitable for plants with long cultivation time and high nutritional needs, such as geraniums and begonia. P soil can also be used as a soil improvement when planting trees, shrubs and perennials outdoors, and it is useful to cultivate edible plants in it. A true classic in the garden of Sweden that fits all kinds of planting both inside and out. The soil is dark and mellow thanks to the addition of a large proportion of black peat that binds moisture and nutrition until the plants need it. The soil is medium fertilized with mineral fertilizer that is easily accessible for the plants to root and grow rapidly. The planting soil is calcined to pH 6.0 and fertilized with mineral fertilizers containing all nutrients, including micronutrients. P soil also contains the ingredient Rotkraft consisting of concentrated natural humic acids. It is a group of organic substances that are added more to promote healthy, viable roots. The root formation is stimulated and the plant nutrients are absorbed and utilized optimally. For the benefit of the plant, the environment and you. Composition Light and dark peat, sand, lime, mineral fertilizer, Rotkraft
Conductivity: 45 mS / m

Added nutrition per m3
NPK 14-7-15 mkro 1.5 kg
Micro nutrition 0.05 kg

Added amount in mg / l
Nitrogen (N): 240
Phosphorus (F): 70
Potassium (K): 250
Magnesium (Mg): 200
Calcium (Ca): 350
Sulfur (S): 120
Drill (B): 0.5
Copper (Cu): 1.7
Iron (Fe): 70
Manganese (Mn): 20
Molybdenum (Mo): 0.7
Zinc (Zn): 4.0
Click to expand...
Noob that stuff sounds like a great product.....never heard of it til now. Was it bought at a grow shop?
 
daddygreenthumb said:
Hello guys and gals. I am also a new person trying to grow my first batch of white widow. Have had no problems to get the seeds to sprout but when I moved out to the greenhouse then my problems seemed to start.

My greenhouse is approx. 10 feet wide 30 feet long and 8 feet high. Have plenty of room.

How important is it to have air movement in the greenhouse it is very humid in there even on an overcast day.

I am currently watering my plants twice a day with them taking the most water in the mornings.

Looking for someone to talk me through my first time of this process. . . .

Hope to hear from a couple of great people.

Thanks in advance

D
Click to expand...
Good morning DGT, I was going to say Daddy but it sounded really creepy LMAO.

First off, the greenhouse sounds amazing.... Wish I had 300 square feet to play with LMAO.

Your girls are fine, that super stretch is because they're not getting enough light at this stage of their life. What I generally do is I get a pot which is taller than the ones you are presently using. I only fill my pots up halfway with soil when I drop a new seed that way when she pops out and stretches like that I can continuously fill up the pot burying her stem in soil as each one of those little hairs on her stem is a potential root site. Slowly filling up the pot as she stretches, you are adding stability to her as well as giving yourself enough soil to play with so that you don't have to transplant her again for a while. You're not doing anything wrong, I would just get some taller skinny pots from my grow shop and Transplant into those.

Humidity is not a huge issue in the early stages of their life. I have no issue keeping my humidity in my cloning and vegging area above 60%. Personally I think they like the humid warm air when they're young. Once they start to flower, you will need to increase air circulation pretty majorly as you don't want any of your girls getting Bud rot from lack of air movement.

Hopefully this helps, let me know if it doesn't make sense.....noob, sorry to highjack here momentarily!

DGT, swing by my grow with questions....my perpetual link is in my signature.
 

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