First Time Grower: Help Making Sure Everything Makes Sense! Detailed

parrajara

Well-Known Member
Hey folks,

Please note post is unfinished, but I've been trying to finish it for a few days and haven't had the time to. So I plan on coming back to update it as time permits. I have provided all of the details that I think are relevant to the current stage that I am in, but if there are any additional details you require please let me know!

I'd like to clarify that I made this thread with the intent of not wasting your time with commonly asked and redundant questions. I value it and intend of using it efficiently.

I will be starting my first grow within the next week. I have never planted or cared for a plant in my life, so I am as a beginner to growing as it gets; but I am very interested in learning this beautiful craft - and I want to do it properly. Since I will be starting my first grow soon (seed 24 hrs in paper towel as I type this), I wanted to drop down ALL of the information that I have gathered, with the hope that some of you seasoned growers can take a look at my plan and see if you have any suggestions/corrections for me. I hope this is the right sub-forum for this.

I will break this post down into the following sections:
  1. The Growing Equipment
  2. The Environment
  3. The Plant and Accessories for Growing
  4. The Growing Medium, Nutrients, Amendments, RH and Water
  5. Nutrients/Macro nutrients
  6. Feeding and watering schedule
  7. (More) Questions for you gurus
The Growing Equipment
  • Grow Tent: 2x4x6ft
  • Lights: Full spectrum white LEDs, 400 actual wattage (two lamps with 200 actual watt each). They are active cooling (with fans), not passive (with heatsink)
  • Exhaust: I have a 4" exhaust and carbon filter rated at 150CFM. I know this is on the lower end of the spectrum and a 6" is recommended, but I really am hoping this 4" one is enough - I've returned quite a few things to Amazon this month and don't want to get blacklisted lol. Will return and get a 6" if it will make a BIG deal. I don't care if the life expectancy of my fan is shorter, as long as I can get 2 years out of it.
  • Intake: Passive, no intake fans.
  • Fan: This is where I am not sure if one or two 6" clip on fans are necessary
  • Humidity and Temperature: Thermometer and humidity monitor.
    Average humidity in my home is about 55% RH, and temperature is 23C. I suspect this will be different inside my tent when it is closed and the lights are on. I am considering getting a humidifer/dehumidifier, but I am not sure if I need them to be honest.
  • Other: pH and TDS tester. I will be using citric acid for pH down and potassium bicarbonate for pH up. My pH tester comes with calibration solution, so that will work for now... Not sure how long I can expect it to last before re-calibrating.
The Environment:
  • Location: I live in a 476 sq ft. studio. The tent will be in my "living room" which has thick carpet flooring. No direct airflow from any window, and no direct sunlight hitting the tent.
  • Pest Attractants: Just my girlfriend and I, no pets, no other plants. My condo only has two windows located by the kitchen, at the far end of the apartment when you enter the unit. I am putting up the bug screen on the windows because we do occasionally find small flying bugs. Is this necessary? I really would prefer to keep my view unobstructed from the screen, but not at the expense of my plant's well-being.
  • Temperature: I live in Downtown Vancouver, Canada. Winter is mild compared to most of Canada. I like to keep my apartment cool, but for the sake of the plants I will ensure the temperature is always above 20C. I'm not going crazy over keeping it at one specific temperature.. Right now my average room temperature at home is 23-24C.
  • Humidity: As mentioned before, it is normally around 55% RH

The Plant & Accessories for Growing - 2 Plants
  • Plant Type: Photoperiod Feminized Green Crack Kush. Now that I am learning more, I think Autoflower would've been best for my space, but too late... photoperiod will have to do for this grow. I also read that photoperiod is more forgiving and thus better for first time growers
  • Pots: start germination in paper towel and transfer to 5x6" pot for seedling stage. In early veg, transplant to 5 gallon fabric pot
  • Riser: Do you recommend I use plant risers to increase air flow?
  • Drain: I put each plant/fabric pot over a plastic tote lid. Is this recommendable or are there better alternatives?
  • Other: Twist ties for LST and materials needed for scrOG
The Growing Medium, Nutrients, Amendments, RH and Water
Since I would like to avoid liquid nutrients and such, this is what I thought would work on short notice. I'm not sure if I have time to let the medium and amendments properly break down before transplanting from my seedling mix to the vegetation and flowering mix. From the day I publish this thread, it should be another 2 weeks or so before I have to transplant (I believe).

Seedling mix:
  • Top (80-90% of the pot): 50-60% Dutch Treat (DT) starter mix soil, 30% perlite.
  • Bottom (10-20%) of the pot: 1/3rd FFOF, 1/3rd DT soil and 1/3rd perlite. I am hoping that by doing so, it helps the plant start adapting to the FFOF right before transplanting to the 5 gallon pot. It may not make a huge difference, but I would like to experiment this if it's not a bad idea.
  • Amendments: I wanted to use half the manufacturer recommended dosage of rhizotonic, mycorrhizae and azomite, but the guy at the hydro shop said it wasn't necessary. I still would like to hear feedback about adding these, as I am still inclined to try it on my next grow. Not a bad idea to ease on the spending for this grow...
    • I did buy one amendment called Raw Grow Stage Microbes. I will put a little tiny bit in the hole where the seed is going to be planted.
  • RH: I think 60% is ideal for the first two weeks. Since my house is 55% RH, I suspect that the heat from the lights will lower the RH near the seedlings. Therefore I plan on using a 2L pop bottle cut in half and placing it over the square 5x6" pot... However, if the bottle doesn't flush into the pot, since it is round, will it matter if it sits on top of the pot and there are small air gaps?
  • Water: 6.2-6.8pH. I will not be going crazy over it, as long as it is within that range.
    Does the temperature of the water matter? I plan on watering it very lightly once a day for the first week, and then on the second week water it a little more but every other day? Ratios and schedules for watering and top feeding is the area with the most ambiguity :reading420magazine:

Note: I have to put my germinated seed in a pot today, so I will continue editing and adding details to the vegetation stage in the days to come. That is the stage that I have the most doubts and questions about, but for now if you don't mind letting me know what you think of my seedling stage plan, I would really appreciate it. Thank you

---------------------------------------------

Vegetation: About 2 weeks after planting the germinated seed in the seedling starter mix, the plant should be getting into vegetation and the roots should be curling slightly around the bottom of the 5x6" pot (I hope). At this point I was planning on continuing to ease my plant into FoxFarm Ocean Forest (FFOF) soil for a week or so.
  • Top (10% of 5 gallon pot): Same mix as the bottom of the seedling mix (1-1-1 ratio FFOF, DT and perlite).
  • Bottom (90% of 5 gallon pot): 60% FFOF, 30% perlite, 10% EWC
  • Nutrients: This is where things get confusing for me.... To my understanding, FFOF nutrients should last about 4 weeks, and the EWC may help a bit by then. My plan is to start feeding it around 4 weeks after transplant. I intend on giving it non-liquid nutrients, preferably organic... but I'm confused as to whether I can get organics that are instantly activated (or in short period), or if it's always months for them to "activate" together.
  • Amendments:
  • RH:
  • Water:


Harvesting: To be honest, I am have not started researching this stage in-depth yet. I am aware that you have to look for specific things indications that it's ready to harvest. Once it is, you have to let it dry for ____ weeks, then put it in a glass jar that you open once a week for 15-20 minutes (something like that). Anyway, this thread is more intended for acquiring help on the earlier stages.


Questions
  • After lightly watering during germination and seedling stage, I believe people water until run-off at the bottom of the pot. My question is; how much water do you typically need for a 5 gallon plant? If I mix amendments or nutrients with my water when feeding the plant, and I don't end up using the entire amount that I pre-made, does it all go to waste? Or do you keep it for later use?
  • Similar to the previous question. If I end up making compost tea, if I don't end up using it all of the liquid, can I store it for next use? If so, are there any steps you must take before reusing it again?



I'd like to thank @013 and @Nunyabiz for providing valuable input that has helped me get here, and to all of the members that have contributed on the forum throughout the years - everything that is documented is extremely helpful. Thank you in advance to anyone that made it this far, and to those of you that provide your insight :)
 

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Afternoon @parrajara ,

Seems as though you have a fair start :)

As for your 4” fan, it’s lots big for that size tent even with 400w of light. That fan will “turn over” the air in the tent 3X a minute :) My small tent is a 32x32 with a 430w (actual) LED and I use a 4” fan for it.

For a good feed that’s inexpensive and easy (especially for a beginner) look into Mega Crop, they are not a sponsor here but there are a lot of folks using it and I gave it a shot this year and have been impressed so far.

Ask all and as many questions as needed mate, most of us are here to learn, share and help others :)
 
Afternoon @parrajara ,
As for your 4” fan, it’s lots big for that size tent even with 400w of light. That fan will “turn over” the air in the tent 3X a minute :) My small tent is a 32x32 with a 430w (actual) LED and I use a 4” fan for it.

For a good feed that’s inexpensive and easy (especially for a beginner) look into Mega Crop, they are not a sponsor here but there are a lot of folks using it and I gave it a shot this year and have been impressed so far.

Ask all and as many questions as needed mate, most of us are here to learn, share and help others :)

That's relieving to know that it should suffice. According to the sources I have used, it is more than enough mathematically. Thank you for the suggestion, I believe that is the same one 013 suggested in a different thread I made. I will be looking into it!

Cheers!
 
Appreciate the feedback and kind words!

The first picture is what my setup started looking like. The second one is what it looks like now... as the humidity level severely decreased (34% RH) and the temperature increased all the way to 33C, and now it is sitting above 31C... not ideal. Hoping the cling wrap and water helps with humidity :confused: I am planning on getting two clip on fans to replace this fan. Is it a bad idea to lay down the fan for the interim? until I get the clip on fans

I will be going to buy a humidifier tomorrow. So once I have a humidifier, I won't need to put the 2L pop can over the plant right?
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Hi. Great job so far. Why are your lower vents closed? They should all be open Asin pull the covers off. Consider an inductor fan to match your extractor after adjusting for the lower draw of the filter. It isn't expensive. There is going to be an issue with light when you switch to flowering in a couple of months, if your tent isn't completely dark.
 
Hi. Great job so far. Why are your lower vents closed? They should all be open Asin pull the covers off. Consider an inductor fan to match your extractor after adjusting for the lower draw of the filter. It isn't expensive. There is going to be an issue with light when you switch to flowering in a couple of months, if your tent isn't completely dark.
Thank you Calvados. I wasn't sure what the implications of opening those flaps were, so I researched it last night and it seems like the main purpose of them is to have them closed during flowering. I suppose it's ideal to have them open during seedling/early veg to increase airflow and lower temperature. I didn't know if light leaking out of the lower "windows" would be an issue, but I opted on opening them up because even if it was an issue, I figured the little bit of light leak is better than 90F+ temps.

The tent is still running pretty hot, so today I will be looking into getting more fans and the inductor fan.

I plan on watering my seedlings about 2 oz of water lightly poured once a day for the first week or so. Does this sound about right?
 
The vents are down low for a reason. The floor is the coolest point in any room, the ceiling is the warmest point in any room. Warm air rises & cool air sinks - even in a small tent there are a few degrees difference from floor to the cieling. The vents are down low to draw in cool air, the exhaust vents are up top to let warm air out either passively or with your fan. Yes it can be set up bass ackwards too with the mechanical help of a fan & electricity.

light leaking out is not the problem, light leaking in during your plants night time is the issue. Inside the tent must be pitch dark. Put duct tape on any indicator lights like fans, power strips, dehuey, heaters etc. 12 dark means pitch black otherwise you run the risk of hermie & seeding up all your plants or possibly reveg - both will screw up your harvest.
 
Hey para, great write up! You my friend need to start a grow journal, you have great documentation skills!

I have a question regarding your ventilation...are you exhausting into your condo, or to outside? If to outside, how far of ducting do you have?
 
Thank you everyone for all of the help and kind words!

@Rexer, I am not ventilating outside. The vent is really short, about 3ft max. Only one small bend, nowhere near 90 degrees.

Update

I've had my hands full trying to get my ladies taken care of.

I started watering them one shot glass a day roughly, but I had doubts that my sprinkle of water was penetrating deep enough into the soil to reach the roots and even past them... So, I gave them a little more water think I ended up overwatering them.

I have hope I am still okay to save the one that is really curled up. This one was a late bloomer (1 day later) and the leaves have always been curled like that, its not like they grew straight and then drooped down. I'm going to not water them and hope for the best.

I also moved the tent to a much more ventilated area near my windows, added a 6" hurricane fan that is cross ventilating with my other fan, and a humidifier that helped me maintain 50%RH with the exhaust on 24/7. I know the exhaust and humidifier kind of counteract each other, so I was considering getting an ink bird humidity controller to automatically shut on/off the exhaust/humidifier depending on RH. But I like the idea of 24/7 exhaust, so i just got a more powerful humidifier coming tomorrow.

Anyway, the pictures of my ladies attachrd. You can see the one has really curled in leaves, and the soil is wet, light is strong enough... must be overwatering.

Also, its probably due to the low humidity and high temperature during the first few days of seedling, but they really look stagnant - they look the exact same as 2 days ago. Im not trying to be impatient, I'm just worried.
 

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Morning @parrajara , your girls look fine.

They may seem slow to you, but in big pots (for seedlings) they will put a lot of energy into building roots with little noticeable topside growth, but when they do start showing topside growth, they will have a great root structure and will explode with growth.
 
Hey para, thanks for the tag back!

I'm only bringing it up, as I want to make sure that you know the risks of mould that can run with exhausting back into your living space. It can get bad and out of control fast, if your bringing it near a window, consider making a means to exhaust outside or have a plan to in place in case you start seeing signs of mold
 
Hey para, thanks for the tag back!

I'm only bringing it up, as I want to make sure that you know the risks of mould that can run with exhausting back into your living space. It can get bad and out of control fast, if your bringing it near a window, consider making a means to exhaust outside or have a plan to in place in case you start seeing signs of mold
Thank you @The Celt, its actually relieving to read that. I appreciate you sharing that knowledge.

Wow, I thought the issues with mold were inside the tent. It makes sense that it can easily happen where the exhaust is blowing! Damn that is a big problem for me, because my condo only has 2 windows and they're by the kitchen, so there is no way i can move it there... wifey would kill me.

I will research what preventative measures I can take, or what other options I have. Really thankful for all the support I'm receiving
 
Get a clean spray bottle and spray water in a circle around perimeter to tease those roots outward to the outside edges of your buckets.
thank you buddy. I've been watering them around the perimeter for that reason :)

I did try to spray them, but i felt like the spray was very weak and hardly penetraring the soil, so i covered my seedlings with a shot glass, and lightly poured water in the soil, instead of spraying it.

Seedlings still look the exact same as last night, so once I start to notice any changes I will update here :)
 
You were burning the midnight oil! They will grow more when it dries and roots have to search for water. I know it’s a fine line because we were taught that water must be given to keep them alive but because of wicking the soil holds water in suspension. Try this..... hold the cup so as to support the soil & seedling. tilt the cup to a 45 degree angle & hold for 5 minutes (or carefully prop it up so it won’t tip over) over a saucer and see how much water drains out.

This is the perched water table that just drained out, and there is plenty more water still being held in suspension.
 
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