Garden Of Eden

[GodOfPot]

It is awesome, I always lean in Bob & Bright to help me out, always picking their mind for info...and I do my best to pass it along to others as well

RO I’ll check up on tomorrow, I know what my tap water is(7.8) so I’ll try to get some time and work on it from there....most likely calibrate my pen tonight

 

[bobrown14]

Thanks for the kind words... much appreciated for sure.

PH pen - calibrated??

Don't forget what a PH test is. We are measuring the Potential for Hydrogen.

When we filter water thru a RO system we are taking EVERYTHING out of the water and should be left with EXTEMELY minute traces of dissolved solids. Our water measures about 8ppm on a TDS meter.

Once all the dissolved solids are removed from the water with the RO filter we have basically pure water no minerals. RO water that is left out exposed to air will actually adsorb more hydrogen and the PH test should over time show the water will become slightly acidic.

Soooo... that said, there are reasons for a high PH test. 1 reason is your tap water has a very high TDS (total dissolved solids) to start with. Eventually this will clog your filter quicker than normal. To measure TDS you need a TDS meter. This is how I test my water for PPM. Should be below 10ppm from an RO filter doing its job effectively. Our tap water measures around 250ppm... that's a lot of crap we dont know about and a very high TDS reading.

When you first fire up your RO filter I think the directions instruct to run the filter WITHOUT the membrane until the water runs clear... then insert the membrane cartridge and run it for 30 minutes...then you're good to go. I never do that and just run water thru it for about 1/2 hour...

So test your water again - run it into a GLASS container so nothing gets absorbed from the container.

Now all that said.. the benefit of an RO water is to remove all the TDS that are in the water that you don't know about.

The PH of the RO water is insignificant. PH is not measuring acidity or alkalinity, its measuring the potential for hydrogen.

Guys that run Hydro systems want water without dissolved solids then they add in their own to get the water to where they want it. Likely the large growers have very sophiticated versions of RO filters in place. I'm sure they do.

Gotta remember that PH is not an issue growing plants in living soil... go grab some snow or collect rain water and test it... it's also going to have a very low TDS measurement and likely be somewhat acidic or test lower than 7 on your meter.

Trees still growing grass still green... its the dissolved solids in tap water that we are getting rid of and can throw off soil in containers as there's not enough buffering taking place with the limited amount of soil in a container.


End of the day .... all I worry about is the TDS reading.

 

[Bonsaiweed]

Thanks for the kind words... much appreciated for sure.

PH pen - calibrated??

Don't forget what a PH test is. We are measuring the Potential for Hydrogen.

When we filter water thru a RO system we are taking EVERYTHING out of the water and should be left with EXTEMELY minute traces of dissolved solids. Our water measures about 8ppm on a TDS meter.

Once all the dissolved solids are removed from the water with the RO filter we have basically pure water no minerals. RO water that is left out exposed to air will actually adsorb more hydrogen and the PH test should over time show the water will become slightly acidic.

Soooo... that said, there are reasons for a high PH test. 1 reason is your tap water has a very high TDS (total dissolved solids) to start with. Eventually this will clog your filter quicker than normal. To measure TDS you need a TDS meter. This is how I test my water for PPM. Should be below 10ppm from an RO filter doing its job effectively. Our tap water measures around 250ppm... that's a lot of crap we dont know about and a very high TDS reading.

When you first fire up your RO filter I think the directions instruct to run the filter WITHOUT the membrane until the water runs clear... then insert the membrane cartridge and run it for 30 minutes...then you're good to go. I never do that and just run water thru it for about 1/2 hour...

So test your water again - run it into a GLASS container so nothing gets absorbed from the container.

Now all that said.. the benefit of an RO water is to remove all the TDS that are in the water that you don't know about.

The PH of the RO water is insignificant. PH is not measuring acidity or alkalinity, its measuring the potential for hydrogen.

Guys that run Hydro systems want water without dissolved solids then they add in their own to get the water to where they want it. Likely the large growers have very sophiticated versions of RO filters in place. I'm sure they do.

Gotta remember that PH is not an issue growing plants in living soil... go grab some snow or collect rain water and test it... it's also going to have a very low TDS measurement and likely be somewhat acidic or test lower than 7 on your meter.

Trees still growing grass still green... its the dissolved solids in tap water that we are getting rid of and can throw off soil in containers as there's not enough buffering taking place with the limited amount of soil in a container.


End of the day .... all I worry about is the TDS reading.

I got mine yesterday and ran 2 gallons of RO. It tested at 6.5 in both gallons, after being poured into a glass. I'm using a BlueLabs pen. Just to state the equipment.

Worked great. Interesting yours tested different.

 

[GodOfPot]

Thanks for the kind words... much appreciated for sure.

PH pen - calibrated??

Don't forget what a PH test is. We are measuring the Potential for Hydrogen.

When we filter water thru a RO system we are taking EVERYTHING out of the water and should be left with EXTEMELY minute traces of dissolved solids. Our water measures about 8ppm on a TDS meter.

Once all the dissolved solids are removed from the water with the RO filter we have basically pure water no minerals. RO water that is left out exposed to air will actually adsorb more hydrogen and the PH test should over time show the water will become slightly acidic.

Soooo... that said, there are reasons for a high PH test. 1 reason is your tap water has a very high TDS (total dissolved solids) to start with. Eventually this will clog your filter quicker than normal. To measure TDS you need a TDS meter. This is how I test my water for PPM. Should be below 10ppm from an RO filter doing its job effectively. Our tap water measures around 250ppm... that's a lot of crap we dont know about and a very high TDS reading.

When you first fire up your RO filter I think the directions instruct to run the filter WITHOUT the membrane until the water runs clear... then insert the membrane cartridge and run it for 30 minutes...then you're good to go. I never do that and just run water thru it for about 1/2 hour...

So test your water again - run it into a GLASS container so nothing gets absorbed from the container.

Now all that said.. the benefit of an RO water is to remove all the TDS that are in the water that you don't know about.

The PH of the RO water is insignificant. PH is not measuring acidity or alkalinity, its measuring the potential for hydrogen.

Guys that run Hydro systems want water without dissolved solids then they add in their own to get the water to where they want it. Likely the large growers have very sophiticated versions of RO filters in place. I'm sure they do.

Gotta remember that PH is not an issue growing plants in living soil... go grab some snow or collect rain water and test it... it's also going to have a very low TDS measurement and likely be somewhat acidic or test lower than 7 on your meter.

Trees still growing grass still green... its the dissolved solids in tap water that we are getting rid of and can throw off soil in containers as there's not enough buffering taking place with the limited amount of soil in a container.


End of the day .... all I worry about is the TDS reading.

Thanks for that Bob

I actually spent some time reading up on it last night to find out why and came to the same conclusion you just stated. Because of how clean RO water is lots of ph meters have an incredibly hard time reading it properly, and it can be influenced so easily.

The more I read I began to realize because it's so easily influenced it shouldn't really matter what it is....my TDS pen only reads to the 10th....so TDS reading was coming out 0-1 which could be anywhere from 0-10....brought the PPM up to 2(20) using Ful-Power and it stabalized the ph around 6.

Will probably always add 1-2 caps of ful-power to 5 gal for the feeding....will be interesting to see how the other additives(nettle, kelp, HT etc.) affect the ph swings just for the fun.....happy I went RO though, I'm sure the plants loving it too

 

[GodOfPot]

I got mine yesterday and ran 2 gallons of RO. It tested at 6.5 in both gallons, after being poured into a glass. I'm using a BlueLabs pen. Just to state the equipment.

Worked great. Interesting yours tested different.

When I calibrated my pen last night it wasn't actually too far off, maybe like .3 from the calibration solutions.....I chalk it up to being a lower model pen, and after reading about it last night and Bobs explanation not too worried now.....just didn't like not knowing what was the cause lol

 

[GodOfPot]

Grape OG
She reminds me of a plant that's fading at the end of flower to be honest, I find it odd yet the color is very alive looking, hope you're able to see the depth of this color, snagged some pics in COB mode and COB+LED mode hoping you can see what I see, she's a good looking plant but definitely going through some changes....at 1 point she was a very dark green

476FADF3-C109-44A0-9668-5DEA332DF255.jpeg

• GodOfPot
• Mar 16, 2018
• grape og

Grape OG

2F462774-8727-45C7-AFA3-80EE68D3E074.jpeg

• GodOfPot
• Mar 16, 2018

Grape OG

F6B49696-4012-4587-B148-9154108C89A2.jpeg

• GodOfPot
• Mar 16, 2018
• grape og

Grape OG

484BB9E8-D148-43CE-90E2-69BC2070098F.jpeg

• GodOfPot
• Mar 16, 2018

Grape OG

8B6E0AB6-FB9C-48BC-B628-57BA6978B7C0.jpeg

• GodOfPot
• Mar 16, 2018

Grape OG

A726559F-C03D-4A71-86B3-C51931B33265.jpeg

• GodOfPot
• Mar 16, 2018

Grape OG

AED9B041-306A-40E6-B4A3-BD1BB04122E3.jpeg

• GodOfPot
• Mar 16, 2018

Grape OG

E4EB5829-540B-40DB-9AFD-81F158267B21.jpeg

• GodOfPot
• Mar 16, 2018

Grape OG

68F3B5D3-A22C-450F-BD6F-50C4D5033956.jpeg

• GodOfPot
• Mar 16, 2018

Grape OG

Headstash
Just gave her a hair cut so she looks a bit slouched, she's been going awesome no signs of anything, very dark green...some of the fan leaves I was clipping off were bigger than my hands lol

4BD6882B-21C2-480D-BB2B-99FC4BC8B126.jpeg

• GodOfPot
• Mar 16, 2018

Headstash

SSSDH - Cindy XX - Blueberry Gum
Still don't know which is which between Cindy XX & Blueberry Gum, I label them in the pics but I don't actually know yet....between the 2 one of them's starting to stretch a bit while the other is staying shorter, hopefully will be able to tell in a few weeks

SSSDH are both looking great, they both just started to take off, I expect to see a lot of growth out of those 2 over the next couple days, they looking healthy too no signs of sex for either of them yet though.

BDAC1E2B-0BBF-4B76-996F-124DD7A8DA82.jpeg

• GodOfPot
• Mar 16, 2018

SSSDH
Blueberry Gum

5319659D-9730-4734-BDED-DC4E90379EB4.jpeg

• GodOfPot
• Mar 16, 2018

SSSDH
Cindy XX

28D96EBC-AD7C-4508-A29C-4155B4C31421.jpeg

• GodOfPot
• Mar 16, 2018

SSSDH
Cindy XX

351E8785-0933-495E-8D11-01F828009359.jpeg

• GodOfPot
• Mar 16, 2018

SSSDH
Cindy XX

DD28B6AC-A677-4673-8CB1-7FD769A5F072.jpeg

• GodOfPot
• Mar 16, 2018

SSSDH
Blueberry Gum

AB0C5EB5-58B5-43DE-8829-E77AE03A2C0B.jpeg

• GodOfPot
• Mar 16, 2018

SSSDH
Blueberry Gum

FC8253B8-B5B1-430A-B746-7F304BB7571B.jpeg

• GodOfPot
• Mar 16, 2018

Lots of work to do next week when the kiddies are back in school, get it organized a bit more inside....temps seem to be maintaining steadily now....plants are coming along great, figure another week or so and I'll flip to 12/12

 

[ilikemsticky]

everybody looks good except that grape she's got something going on I'm not a real experienced grower so i can't say but I'm afraid she needs some help good luck man!

 

[GodOfPot]

I googled Grape OG & Romulan Grape......it's very possible it's genetics, so it's something I continue to watch....I find it odd that it's doing this during VEG, however I'm a complete newbie when it comes to actual hands on experience so I don't know what to make of it completely yet.

I've checked through deficiency problems etc and nothing seems to be similar to this....the interesting thing is days after the edges have turned color they aren't dying or becoming burnt...they're continuing on as if it's the norm.

For now not much to really do except watch and wait lol....still in VEG so if it is a problem I'll try to get it under control prior to flip

 

[ilikemsticky]

i no they can do weird things rite now i have a tut that an experienced grower suggested it was mag def so i have given it epsom a couple times and still the funny leave but the thing is growing and starting to flower so I'm like you I'm going to watch it and see what it does well get something from these girls anyway!

 

[Bonsaiweed]

I googled Grape OG & Romulan Grape......it's very possible it's genetics, so it's something I continue to watch....I find it odd that it's doing this during VEG, however I'm a complete newbie when it comes to actual hands on experience so I don't know what to make of it completely yet.

I've checked through deficiency problems etc and nothing seems to be similar to this....the interesting thing is days after the edges have turned color they aren't dying or becoming burnt...they're continuing on as if it's the norm.

For now not much to really do except watch and wait lol....still in VEG so if it is a problem I'll try to get it under control prior to flip

I have heard there are some strains that will turn purple instead of brown. I would think this is an excess of some nutrient. I have a chart that would almost correspond to Phosphorous excess. But I have no idea.

I'm guessing.

Deficiency1.jpg

• Bonsaiweed
• Mar 10, 2018

 

[GodOfPot]

It's all part of the leaning curve! I like to watch and learn as much as I can and not do anything until I'm positive.....if it's genetics that's some kick ass vibrant purple right now....my avatar was my first plant grown and she looked absolutely beautiful when she finished....although she didn't start showing colors until the last 3 weeks in flower.

I think lighting plays a very large role in color definition on plants....so many people notice changes when they introduce red COBs(1750) into their grows....my panels have huge red diodes that give off an incredible amount of light(between LED & COBs the LEDs contribute more PPFD on these units) so I wouldn't be surprised if that was playing a role.

 

[Bonsaiweed]

It's all part of the leaning curve! I like to watch and learn as much as I can and not do anything until I'm positive.....if it's genetics that's some kick ass vibrant purple right now....my avatar was my first plant grown and she looked absolutely beautiful when she finished....although she didn't start showing colors until the last 3 weeks in flower.

I think lighting plays a very large role in color definition on plants....so many people notice changes when they introduce red COBs(1750) into their grows....my panels have huge red diodes that give off an incredible amount of light(between LED & COBs the LEDs contribute more PPFD on these units) so I wouldn't be surprised if that was playing a role.

Yes, it could be. But the pale color compared to the others is what worries me.

 

[GodOfPot]

I have heard there are some strains that will turn purple instead of brown. I would think this is an excess of some nutrient. I have a chart that would almost correspond to Phosphorous excess. But I have no idea.

I'm guessing.

Deficiency1.jpg

• Bonsaiweed
• Mar 10, 2018

If I had to guess based on that chart, I would say N deficiency as a 'best' guess....I would attribute the lighter green to just lacking N since these have been vegging for a while(popped sometime late Jan) and the color to genetics....it's the lack of anything damaging that leads me to believe the purple isn't bad I think

 

[GodOfPot]

Yes, it could be. But the pale color compared to the others is what worries me.

Posted before I saw this, but agree on the paling

 

[bobrown14]

Yes, it could be. But the pale color compared to the others is what worries me.

Yes that ^^^ looks like root bound VEG plants to me. How big is your container they are in??

I have mother plants in VEG that start looking like that. Don't worry its not going to hurt anything.

My LAB mothers all look like that .. they are stressing a little bit. Lack of Ca is why and probably N too.

If you don't want to up-pot can add in a cup of compost to top of the container and water. It's not going to change anything right away but they will green up in 5-7 days.

They are getting pretty big for VEG plants. Whats your schedule for flip??

In final container??

 

[GodOfPot]

They are in final container, it's a 7gal pot...they got put into it about 5-6 weeks ago from a 1gal container.

Truth is because of the germinating not going as planned and delaying me 5-6 weeks.....I never considered that lol....I was planning to flip in a week or so.....I assume Headstash will start running into the same problem soon too if that's the case.

I was planning to flip to 12/12 in about a week, was just giving the late seedling a little time....I do have 1 20 gal smart pot lying around....so the option is there, I have enough soil to fill 1 only, so Headstash would have to get top dressed with EWC

Question is more along the lines of weather I trust myself transplanting out of a 7 gal smart pot....my last grow I transplanted from a 3gal smarty and it was rough lol....really really rough...I hate taking it out of a smarty...last time I just ended up tearing apart all the 3gal pots lol

However, if it's truly the best option....you don't learn without trying right? So if that's what the best option is, then I will give it a try

 

[ilikemsticky]

hey gop i was just thinking about that today i have a ud in a 3gal. that I'm going to veg another mo. or more and i have a 7 smart pot i would like to put it in but when i want to up pot it to the 15 outside i figured the only way would be to cut sides down on the pot and waste the pot,i can't imagine trying to get it out of there in one piece!

 

[GodOfPot]

If I need to I have enough soil for 2 15’s...I can pick up 2 next week and up pot them, give them a few days to adjust then flip to 12/12

 

[Bonsaiweed]

Yes that ^^^ looks like root bound VEG plants to me. How big is your container they are in??

I have mother plants in VEG that start looking like that. Don't worry its not going to hurt anything.

My LAB mothers all look like that .. they are stressing a little bit. Lack of Ca is why and probably N too.

If you don't want to up-pot can add in a cup of compost to top of the container and water. It's not going to change anything right away but they will green up in 5-7 days.

They are getting pretty big for VEG plants. Whats your schedule for flip??

In final container??

Wow....I never thought of it being root bound. Oh, well...... I wasn't paying attention to the age of the plant either. My brain always assumes everyone grows autos.

 

[brightlight]

Root bound shouldn't apply to any soft pots due to air pruning. Up potting from a 7 indoors? I used 7's outside for 5 footers...lol. You have plenty of soil in 7's.....by comparison I use 2's all the way, no up pot ever. Not genetics....have grown many Romulan & Tahoe & some Grape Romulan.....while can show slight color at end, none are purple strains.

Early anthocyanin not a worry but that yellowing all over needs some treatment.....still say K & Mg are most likely suspects. Deficiencies are commonly pH related or antagonisms caused by too much of some other element...not an actual deficiency in soil. A slurry will give you strong info on how to proceed. Better to check soil status before adding suspected deficient elements. Fresh organic mixes can often run ultra high TDS....like way over 1000....much higher than plants need or like. When that happens.....plants feed slow or stop feeding certain elements = lock out.