10W30?
Looks great though I miss the nuts.
Looks great though I miss the nuts.
Grandpa Gets Oily! Everclear Extracts For Shatter Or Oil!
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- #442
Me too!
How long did you let the alcohol sit with the pucks in the jar?
I’ve got a massive collection of rosin pucks and I was going to mail infused oil but this seems easier lol
I’ve got a massive collection of rosin pucks and I was going to mail infused oil but this seems easier lol
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- #444
This was a quick wash. I filled the alcohol up to cover all the pucks, put the lid back on and gave her a little swirl. Not really shaking as much as rolling; side to side and top to bottom. Making sure all the pucks are completely soaked. Then let it sit in the freezer for about 30 minutes while I get the hot plate ready and stuff.
After I remove it from the freezer I give it a little swirl once again the same way, but not shaking it madly; just nice and easy. I only do this for about 30 seconds both times. Then I filter at least twice. You’re looking for a light golden color. Almost a decently hydrated piss color. You’re welcome.
I then fill the jar of pucks with Everclear again. It is currently soaking whatever’s left on the pucks and will be a very good 2nd run. All of my Everclear extracts now go to capsules or edibles after I decarb it in a week or so.
HugePeckerhead
Well-Known Member
Hi there. I see that you have a few threads with pressing and oils etc. In your opinion whats the best and easiest i stress easiest the most too thing to do with trimmings?
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- #446
PS. Please be safe! Alcohol fumes are extremely volatile. Notice I’m doing this outdoors with plenty of open ventilation. I have direct access to a water hose that is 3 feet away (that’s about a meter for some of you), and I have a fire extinguisher on site. No open flames!!!
That shit will blow your ass up! Just sayin...
That shit will blow your ass up! Just sayin...
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- #447
I think making ice water hash (bubble hash) is easy if you have access to one of those tiny, little washing machines. Otherwise you need to stir a bucket of ice and trim (old school) and that can be ‘not’ so easy physically. I like it because it’s solventless. You can get a bag of ice pretty much anywhere.
For me, the procedure I just did with the Rosin pucks is easy too, BUT it requires extremely high grain alcohol content and ...as I just stated above, it’s extremely dangerous.
HugePeckerhead
Well-Known Member
Is that anywhere in any of your threads I can read up on and try? I'm just starting to flower and a new grower so I wanna get the most use of the entire plant besides just the buds
gr865
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #450
Type bubble hash or ice water hash on YouTube. There’s a bunch of videos on the topic. I used to do it all the time, but now just do it when I’m in the mood. Hahaha! That sounds disgusting.
I like to make dry ice hash! Simple and easy!
1lb dry ice to every oz of shake, trim, or bud and lightly agitate! I do this over a glass table for easy collection!
MAKE SURE THE GLASS IS CLEAN!!
Once the dry ice hash is collected let it dry to 62% and enjoy!
HugePeckerhead
Well-Known Member
I'm gonna have to YouTube this I think
Dani smoke
Well-Known Member
not good for the health
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- #454
Wow! I don’t get that one. The stuff I did yesterday is already starting to solidify. It’s still real goo and sticky, but it’ll get harder soon. I’ll take some pictures later.
I hope you can find the problem and fix it @Dani smoke
I hope you can find the problem and fix it @Dani smoke
Maritimer
Well-Known Member
Ahoy GT,
Many thanks for your gracious invitation to join your thread, I am jumping in with high hopes that you can manage to teach me to make the best oil I can afford to make. The name of the oil itself gets me a bit off. I try to make what I called RSO except was told because I use everclear it is called FECO while still others refer to it as CCO. I want fully decarbed oil if possible.
I am trying to follow at least initially the 60 gram regiment as I battle CAC. The Loyola doctors advise there is currently no therapy targeting the reduction of calcification of the coronary arteries. Mortality rates are 98% in 3.1 years so my clock is kind of ticking and I need to gain your confidence in my oil being the best I can make.
How would you propose your mentoring to begin sir? Should I provide you a list of what I use and how I do it so you can help right this ship? Or is there a spot on the thread I should begin to focus on?
Thank You Again
Maritimer
Many thanks for your gracious invitation to join your thread, I am jumping in with high hopes that you can manage to teach me to make the best oil I can afford to make. The name of the oil itself gets me a bit off. I try to make what I called RSO except was told because I use everclear it is called FECO while still others refer to it as CCO. I want fully decarbed oil if possible.
I am trying to follow at least initially the 60 gram regiment as I battle CAC. The Loyola doctors advise there is currently no therapy targeting the reduction of calcification of the coronary arteries. Mortality rates are 98% in 3.1 years so my clock is kind of ticking and I need to gain your confidence in my oil being the best I can make.
How would you propose your mentoring to begin sir? Should I provide you a list of what I use and how I do it so you can help right this ship? Or is there a spot on the thread I should begin to focus on?
Thank You Again
Maritimer
RSO, FECO. CCO, BHO, and other oils are the same thing, with differing solvents used for the extraction. If you watch 'Run From the Cure,' You'll note that Rick Simpson used whatever solvent he had on hand to make his RSO, even using naphtha. Another solvent used today that was not available during the time Rick was making RSO is CO2. If you intend to perform a solvent based extraction, I'd recommend either high proof ethanol (Everclear 190 proof) or CO2. High proof ethanol is the cheapest, but most dangerous of the two.
Over the past two to three years rosin has been an accepted method of extraction. It is probably the safest and fastest method of extracting the oils. It can be done using a hair straightener, but a lot of us use a rosin press to get more from our starting material. Cost will vary from about $300 USD for 3" X 5" caged plates if you have your own hydraulic press, to $650 USD for a complete setup.
Any of these methods can be used to get a pure extract. If solvents are used, they will need to be removed to get the purity you want. Part of the extraction process for most solvents is decarboxylation. This is a separate step for some solvents, and all pressed rosin.
Over the past two to three years rosin has been an accepted method of extraction. It is probably the safest and fastest method of extracting the oils. It can be done using a hair straightener, but a lot of us use a rosin press to get more from our starting material. Cost will vary from about $300 USD for 3" X 5" caged plates if you have your own hydraulic press, to $650 USD for a complete setup.
Any of these methods can be used to get a pure extract. If solvents are used, they will need to be removed to get the purity you want. Part of the extraction process for most solvents is decarboxylation. This is a separate step for some solvents, and all pressed rosin.
Maritimer
Well-Known Member
Thank You @Old Salt ,
I have problems with the final evaporation process using 190 proof in that the oil wants to shoot temps and starts to spatter my med over the hot plate. So then I try to bake the oil in oven at around 245 thinking it will finish evap while baking for decarb, but again back off because of spatter. Med ends up runny instead of thick like the video and several others show me. Also not feeling much effects consuming 1/2 gram of the liquid at a time. I am goofing this up big time and cannot afford to keep missing. Appreciate any and all help and promise once I get right, to pay it forward as many times as possible.
I have problems with the final evaporation process using 190 proof in that the oil wants to shoot temps and starts to spatter my med over the hot plate. So then I try to bake the oil in oven at around 245 thinking it will finish evap while baking for decarb, but again back off because of spatter. Med ends up runny instead of thick like the video and several others show me. Also not feeling much effects consuming 1/2 gram of the liquid at a time. I am goofing this up big time and cannot afford to keep missing. Appreciate any and all help and promise once I get right, to pay it forward as many times as possible.
Thank You @Old Salt ,
I have problems with the final evaporation process using 190 proof in that the oil wants to shoot temps and starts to spatter my med over the hot plate. So then I try to bake the oil in oven at around 245 thinking it will finish evap while baking for decarb, but again back off because of spatter. Med ends up runny instead of thick like the video and several others show me. Also not feeling much effects consuming 1/2 gram of the liquid at a time. I am goofing this up big time and cannot afford to keep missing. Appreciate any and all help and promise once I get right, to pay it forward as many times as possible.
You need some form of temperature control. Pure ethanol boils off at 173.1°F / 78.4°C. When water, or something else is mixed with the ethanol, the boiling point rises, especially as the ethanol is boiled off. As the ethanol is boiled off, the water starts boiling off as well. All of this must be done slowly.
The splattering indicates that the water is turning to steam too fast (the heat is too high). The bubbles of steam burst through the RSO carrying it out of your container. Half a gram of the liquid should knock you out when starting. This indicates to me that the oil has not been decaroxylated. All the bubbling should stop when it's full decaboxylated, as water is formed in the process.
A rice cooker is often used. A temperature controlled hot plate can be used, as can a deep fat fryer. I'd use oil in the rice cooker, and in a pan on the temperature controlled hot plate to isolate your container of RSO. If you use a deep fat fryer, you don't want the container with your RSO to float. Put the container of RSO into the basket, and add cooking oil to the fryer until it just comes over the bottom of your container. Use a candy or infared thermometer to verify your temperatures. Bring the oil up to about 180°F to start. As the bubbles die back, keep increasing the temperature slowly until you get to 230°F. Hold it there until all bubbling has stopped for at least 15 minutes. This should get rid of the ethanol and water from your oil, and decarboxylate it.
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- #459
^ This!
@Maritimer @Old Salt is right as usual. When I’m heating to evaporate the alcohol, I keep the temperature below 130F for the entire process. Usually in the neighborhood of 1.5 hours. It’s evaporated very slowly. Not only is this preserving terpenes and other goodness, it’s also much safer. Alcohol fumes are extremely volatile so please be careful.
Sounds like your final product is not decarbed too. I think you’re definitely on the right road though. I’m with old salt on the rosin as well. Check out my other thread in my signature.
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- #460
Here’s what the oil I made 24 hours ago looks like today (purpled blackness):
