zeroday
Well-Known Member
Almost built.
Grandpa Gets Oily! Everclear Extracts For Shatter Or Oil!
Hey HomeyAlmost built.
Nice rig.
zeroday
Well-Known Member
Hey Homey
Sorta in the mode of.... "I have a Ferrari but have no idea how the hell to start it..." My chem teachers back in high - school would be amazed none the less. I'll figure it out. A few more hoses, and a shit ton of vacuum pressure, and we are off to the races!
BobbyZ
Well-Known Member
Which end do you light?Almost built.
Hey if you need any advice or info hit me up. Remember clamps and grease on all the joints and a vacuum gauge is a great tool in distilling. Also be sure to winterize (freeze and filter) your solution before distillingAlmost built.
gr865
Well-Known Member
When you say winterize, what do you mean? New to the distillation biz!
@TheMadDabber has a great thread on how to prepare and load winterized oil into vaping cartridges.
Basically, winterizing removes the wax and other material that solidifies at lower temperatures to make it flow more easily.
Basically, winterizing removes the wax and other material that solidifies at lower temperatures to make it flow more easily.
Winterizing means after you have your everclear and weed solution, you will freeze that for 2 days and filter through a coffee filter. Man I had a cake today to take a pic of. I'll take one in the AM.
Your distillate wont be fully translucent without this step.... it's the 1 and only required step pre distillation. There are color remediation steps you can take as well but as long as its halfway fresh and not riddled with spores or pesties you can skip it.
Check out my thread on winterized oil. The only difference is right after you decarb you just dump the decarbed winterized oil into the still.
Basic still procedure include...
Set to 150 c.
Be sure all the gear is snug and properly supported with stands.
Start with spin bar on low.
Check out future4200.com and get involved.
Also check out summit research. They have advice, classes and SOPs for free.
You can slowly increase the temperature to around 170 c.
Closely monitor your vacuum gauge. You dont want to start pulling true distillate until the gauge is down below 2 microns preferably 1.
Once your vacuum is down in an acceptable range, continue to slowly increase temps. Around 190 to 200 you will see the fractions go from water like consistency to a stringy viscous oil aka distillate. At this point you want to turn the receiving flask and begin collecting your good stuff.
You'll want to rock it nice and slow. Increasing the temperature to 210.
Each increase you will notice the flow speeds up and eventually slows or stops. This Mark's your "fraction" you will have several between the liquid "rejection" flask and the end of your distillation.
Once you reach 210 and assuming your vac is under 1 micron, you'll be very close if not fully finished. Be sure your have a relatively small amount of solution in your boiling flask (where the winterize oil started).
The more pure your starting oil the less you will have in the boiling flask.
And if you double distil then there will be almost none in the boiling flask.
At this point lower the stir bar to low speed. Turn the temp down to 140 and prepare for cool down.
Let the system get below 150 before you break her down.
A little ethanol or everclear will work great if you can get some in there with the flask warm it's super easy to clean.
Do research. Lots and lots before you begin. Obviously having a professional with you to walk thru is best but not always an option.
I'm easiest to reach via Instagram at @themad420dabber
gr865
Well-Known Member
I think I am far away from the distillation process, but I like the winterizing info to make cleaner FECO. I am not sure why I want to do this other than I am tired of have the bottom part of my final oil full of gunk.
- Thread starter
- #590
I love it! 
I wish we all lived closer...
I wish we all lived closer...
Reave
Well-Known Member
Ok I always did this with 99% ISO as a kid but I tried your method with the Everclear. Works very well. One thing I do differently is use a blow dryer to evaporate the liquid. I point it out an open window. It works quite well.
I loaded some into a Yocan Evolve and it hits hard. Very smooth until you realize you hit it way to hard and just about keal over from coughing.
that being said I think I will use a rosin press once I get one. Everclear is kind of expensive and evaporating alcohol has some safety concerns.
Great post
I loaded some into a Yocan Evolve and it hits hard. Very smooth until you realize you hit it way to hard and just about keal over from coughing.
that being said I think I will use a rosin press once I get one. Everclear is kind of expensive and evaporating alcohol has some safety concerns.
Great post
Reave
Well-Known Member
My results:
I just wanted to mention that medmanmike had his QWISO tested and found loads of leftover ISO after purging. Another reason to stick with QWET.
BobbyZ
Well-Known Member
I’m not sure why I didn’t do this before.
Spent pucks to supplement and/or enhance your oils...
Maybe I’m still high from last night.
Spent pucks to supplement and/or enhance your oils...
Maybe I’m still high from last night.
zeroday
Well-Known Member
@TheMadDabber 110 microns, that's as low as it goes on this vacuum pump. The still is fully lubed, Teflon tape where needed. I moved the vacuum gauge from the pump intake, then from each connection up to the cold trap and get 110 microns. With the glass and all connected, including thermometers/adapters, still 110 microns.
I'll figure out my pump issues later, as in find a new one, or double up.
I'll figure out my pump issues later, as in find a new one, or double up.
What do the mean by microns with a vacuum pump?
zeroday
Well-Known Member
Microns are a measurement of pressure in a closed loop system. Kind of line the vacuum in your air conditioning system at home or in your car. In fact, the pump I am using is meant for servicing home AC units.
The goal is to have a closed loop still. The glass is under vacuum pressure, the lower the better. This allows the compounds in the crude/FECO/RSO to vaporize at significantly lower temperatures. THC for example will vaporize at 170c, CBD I believe is up around 210C. In the end, you wind up with three different receiving flasks: heads, body and tails. Heads is garbage, Body is the THC, Tails is the terps.
The end goal is getting the FECO/RSO from the 50-65% range up to the 85%-95% range.
While getting under 10 microns is the ultimate, that takes a pump that is roughly $4k new, $1k rebuilt on ebay. Mine was free. For a first pass, it should do. To truly into the 90% range, you need to spend the money, that I don't have! I'm just happy I am able to get down this low with Chinese glass. When I first put it together, I was getting 7800 microns, which is garbage. After lots of vacuum grease and Teflon tape, I'm at 110 microns. Folks say it can't be done, always hating on the Chinese, lol!
@TheMadDabber correct me where I be wrong, on the science that is.
The goal is to have a closed loop still. The glass is under vacuum pressure, the lower the better. This allows the compounds in the crude/FECO/RSO to vaporize at significantly lower temperatures. THC for example will vaporize at 170c, CBD I believe is up around 210C. In the end, you wind up with three different receiving flasks: heads, body and tails. Heads is garbage, Body is the THC, Tails is the terps.
The end goal is getting the FECO/RSO from the 50-65% range up to the 85%-95% range.
While getting under 10 microns is the ultimate, that takes a pump that is roughly $4k new, $1k rebuilt on ebay. Mine was free. For a first pass, it should do. To truly into the 90% range, you need to spend the money, that I don't have! I'm just happy I am able to get down this low with Chinese glass. When I first put it together, I was getting 7800 microns, which is garbage. After lots of vacuum grease and Teflon tape, I'm at 110 microns. Folks say it can't be done, always hating on the Chinese, lol!
@TheMadDabber correct me where I be wrong, on the science that is.
zeroday
Well-Known Member
I basically follow @Grandpa Tokin ’s process, and then stick the decarbed oil in the still to further refine it.
Reave
Well-Known Member
Just did a fresh frozen with my 21 day trim. I evaporated the Everclear with the blow dryer on low heat this time. It was never really oily this time. Just a honey wax that crumbled off the Pyrex. I smashed it together into a hard chunk with my fingers. Smoked some in my vape pen and WOW. Good shit! 
Edit: and oh the smell. It smelled so good while evaporating and then after the first two hits the room smelled so awesome. Such a good terpine profile.
Edit: and oh the smell. It smelled so good while evaporating and then after the first two hits the room smelled so awesome. Such a good terpine profile.
The scale below zero on a vacuum gauge is used to measure negative pressure, or pressure below one atmosphere, in inches of mercury. This scale is accurate up to 29 in. of mercury. Vacuum levels between 29 in. Hg and 30 in. Hg (absolute vacuum) are measured in microns. One thousand microns is equal to one millimeter of mercury and are measured with an electronic vacuum gauge.
I laughed to myself when I saw the rig you bought, not understanding what you were trying to accomplish. I originally thought you were going to run the alcohol wash through the device to produce RSO, and recover the alcohol.
Now my understanding is that you will make the RSO first. The RSO will then be run through the equipment to perform a fractional distillation, separating the various components of the RSO. You are trying to achieve as close to an absolute vacuum as possible. This will significantly reduce the boiling point of the RSO in the source flask. That will let you isolate the various cannabiniods and terpines without destroying them with heat in the process.
OK, I'm not laughing anymore. I think it's a great idea, and am very interested in learning of the results you'll get.
I laughed to myself when I saw the rig you bought, not understanding what you were trying to accomplish. I originally thought you were going to run the alcohol wash through the device to produce RSO, and recover the alcohol.
Now my understanding is that you will make the RSO first. The RSO will then be run through the equipment to perform a fractional distillation, separating the various components of the RSO. You are trying to achieve as close to an absolute vacuum as possible. This will significantly reduce the boiling point of the RSO in the source flask. That will let you isolate the various cannabiniods and terpines without destroying them with heat in the process.
OK, I'm not laughing anymore. I think it's a great idea, and am very interested in learning of the results you'll get.
