Morglie
Well-Known Member
I've heard that extreme sativas continue to have active root growth into late flower. That's why you can restrict them in small pots during stretch, then uppot and still get a decent sized plant.
Graytail's 4th Perpetual: 4x4 Samsung Panels
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Some can be kept in a vegative phase on 12-12..
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I hadn't thought of that. I upcanned a long Haze pheno in mid-bloom and it definitely sent out more roots.
So it's primarily a thing in late bloom, as the unfertilized plant matures beyond it's natural life.
JustMeds
Well-Known Member
This is all so dam interesting. I also have one that has been bouncing between the ears for a bit. Say the last 2-3 weeks of flower ( You need to know for sure when plant will be done( 2nd Grow)) you increase light back to 18-6 would it give buds more light to grow with and put plant under some stress that is supposed to increase trichomes?
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I don't have data to back it up, but I've always thought that plants do better with less light at the end of bloom. I notice that the lower growth always looks so fresh and vibrant while the top growth looks tired and dry.
The intensity would be more effective between mid and late bloom, I think.
I sure do have success myself, with stress producing more trichs, but I also wonder if it's just because there's less plant tissue.
The intensity would be more effective between mid and late bloom, I think.
I sure do have success myself, with stress producing more trichs, but I also wonder if it's just because there's less plant tissue.
Very interesting indeed on Stanks observations. I’ve successfully rooted cuttings from plants 30-40 day post flip, but did so under a 18-6 on/off light schedule. But I never observed the root growth like Stank describes. Next tine I will. Late bloom cuttings for me means something bad happened to my veg cuttings, and is a last ditch effort to save some genetics.
JustMeds
Well-Known Member
That would make sense now thinking about it from that angle. In nature the sun don't seem to have as much intensity in the fall. I wonder if a shade cloth over a plant in last 2 weeks in tent would work. Heck, could just one branch on a plant be covered for a comparison. Think I may have a bud site or three on the White Widow that could be crash test dummy's. Am I on a cliff I should be talked off of?
It’s like Gray said, and I agree, the lower branches that are shaded will have more tender freshness to them, while the top most buds will be dryer and tired looking in comparison.
I have room to move my plants around, and at times when a plant is not done, but looking tired, especially this time of year with low RH, I will move the plant so it is not under the light directly. It seems to extend the time I can leave it in bloom, without burning the tops. I will have to experiment with this tech, and conveniently I currently have two identical Golden Pineapple’s at 44 pf. They go ~70 days.
Next week I’m going to take one and progressively each day move it away from the light, while the other stays under the light, and look for any notable differences.
kelticBlue
Well-Known Member
I have my reveg Zamaldelica, I wanna take it to a 'later' flower. Be more patient this time around, pretty much just an experiment all around.
I have the dimmer at about 75% now, gonna dial it back a bit maybe toward 50%. It has been on 11/13 lights since mid december. I hope to get another 2-3 weeks of flower at least.
having fun playing in the dirt
THanks for the tip!
Yeah me too!
I’ve gotta run around and try to find some clear solo cups...
@Van Stank thanks for the information! That’s some very helpful knowledge man
That could certainly be something more traditionally found in equatorial landraces/long flowering sativas. They never experience the photo period shifts that other regions experience so their general growing rules are a bit different than most strains. Could explain why they continue to grow roots while most other varieties stop. Ain't it a fascinating plant!
That was what really started to lead me down playing with revegging.........hearing people struggle to save cuts where something happened that they didn't expect. The way I figure, its only a matter of time. Shortly after starting to play around with it......Doc went through his scare with his Lemon Paki strain and I knew I was wise to try and learn this before I HAD to.
I figured it was time for me to start trying to understand what happens during that whole period. Its been interesting observing. Its all observation at this point as I don't fully understand how our plant does that whole reveg thing......amazing really. I just didn't want to find myself in Docs shoes in the future with a valuable strain. I figure, take the time and learn the process and then when I NEED to use it, I will have a good head start.
lazyfish
Well-Known Member
It’s this exact reason Im here to learn as well Van
I took four cuts of this Durban in flower but just plopped em’ in some moistened pro mix. I can’t see what’s happening down below lol. Took the cuts late Jan early Feb and they still look great! No discernible signs of revegging yet though. I just hit them with 1/2 strength destress for a week or so and then let em breath without a dome.
You’re a good Boy Scout Stank, Be prepared!
lazyfish
Well-Known Member
So will any of the cob grow lights on the zon be good? I see there are some that are like 600 or 800 watt for around $100 that is not bad at all.
JustMeds
Well-Known Member
I like the panels. I think Gray has some Kitty panels also.
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Yep, I agree. You have to get the better line of brand name COBs to get the efficiency you're after. Otherwise, good high-value blurples like Mars-Hydro are just as good. Don't go for "good deals" online, unless you're sure you know what you're doing.
Kitty's QB panels have proven to be reliable and inexpensive. You can find them at 'baba under Meijiu. They're a better choice than COBs if you can get them cheap enough. They run cooler with better spread and closer headroom.
lazyfish
Well-Known Member
Gray - do you mean Cat brand lights?
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