Help I don't know what's wrong with my plants

Bigdaddy69

Well-Known Member
Hey guys I am currently growing indoors in a closet.
I have 2 White Widow auto fems in soil.
They are mid week 3 of veg right now.
They are showing some symptoms that I cannot quite figure out what, I have attached photos of my set up as well as RH and temp and of course the girls.

I have been feeding them nutes called Hyponex High Grade (NPK 7-10-6) which is what I could get my hands on, this is my 3rd grow and I had no issues with this nute in both of my previous grows but they were both photo types so maybe that's the problem? I'm not too sure.
I am hoping some of you with more experiences could point me in right directions on what to do.

Thanks in advance guys!

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Hey Bigdaddy69,

Welcome to 420! To really help we need more info.... What’s in the bucket? Did you add any amendments? Did you precharged it with cal-mag? Are you adjusting ph? To what value? How often do you water? How often do you feed? Do you have a cal-mag product?

First & foremost that looks like coco. Coco and soil are not the same, coco is considered as a soilless media and its a low tech hydro format called drain to waste as in the runoff gets tossed out and is never intended to be reapplied to the plant. Being a hydro format then hydro rules apply set ph to 5.8 Also I suspect your water & feeding game are off. Coco is inert there are zero nutrients in coco to sustain a plant so it needs to be bottle fed low dose or quarter strength nutes at every feeding. Feed the entire surface with those nutes so water gets into every crevice, don’t use plain water or plain ph adjusted water ever, do not let coco dry out and coco plants need cal-mag added which for most bottled nutes it is usually not included with your NPK nutes - its largely an add on product. Check your nutrient labels to see if calcium & magnesium are included but I suspect they are not present.

Feed to 10% runoff each time to help prevent chemical salts from building up in your coco. Feed 1X every day, when plant is bigger feed 2X every day and in flower feed 3X per day. When mixing nutes add cal-mag first stir & wait 10 minutes, add your NPK at 1/4 strength stir & wait, then at last check & adjust your ph to 5.8 Also please avoid blurple pics in the future if you can!

Autos are different beasts & there is a lot of luck or skill involved in achieving success with them. I would suggest at your next bean order to get both fem photos and a few autos unless of course you prefer trying regs for breeding or pheno hunt

Please update with your answers and I'm going to shout at @Bill284 to drop in later. I’m soil grower and Bill is very skilled at coco so listen to what he says - not me!
 
Hey Bigdaddy69,

Welcome to 420! To really help we need more info.... What’s in the bucket? Did you add any amendments? Did you precharged it with cal-mag? Are you adjusting ph? To what value? How often do you water? How often do you feed? Do you have a cal-mag product?

First & foremost that looks like coco. Coco and soil are not the same, coco is considered as a soilless media and its a low tech hydro format called drain to waste as in the runoff gets tossed out and is never intended to be reapplied to the plant. Being a hydro format then hydro rules apply set ph to 5.8 Also I suspect your water & feeding game are off. Coco is inert there are zero nutrients in coco to sustain a plant so it needs to be bottle fed low dose or quarter strength nutes at every feeding. Feed the entire surface with those nutes so water gets into every crevice, don’t use plain water or plain ph adjusted water ever, do not let coco dry out and coco plants need cal-mag added which for most bottled nutes it is usually not included with your NPK nutes - its largely an add on product. Check your nutrient labels to see if calcium & magnesium are included but I suspect they are not present.

Feed to 10% runoff each time to help prevent chemical salts from building up in your coco. Feed 1X every day, when plant is bigger feed 2X every day and in flower feed 3X per day. When mixing nutes add cal-mag first stir & wait 10 minutes, add your NPK at 1/4 strength stir & wait, then at last check & adjust your ph to 5.8 Also please avoid blurple pics in the future if you can!

Autos are different beasts & there is a lot of luck or skill involved in achieving success with them. I would suggest at your next bean order to get both fem photos and a few autos unless of course you prefer trying regs for breeding or pheno hunt

Please update with your answers and I'm going to shout at @Bill284 to drop in later. I’m soil grower and Bill is very skilled at coco so listen to what he says - not me!
Thanks for replying @013
I am actually currently growing in soil, it's not canna-special soil but I'm overseas right now and basically got me a big bag of general gardening soil.
It's advertised to be a soil that earthworms ate and processed as they enrich the soil in the process.

I couldn't get my hands on PH up & down (I realized this may be a problem and ordered me couple of bottles, they should be here next week).
I generally use the system of watering them when top couple of inches are dry or so and I check by just kinda gently running my fingers around in the said top couple of inches of soil.
Pics were taken right before I water them btw
 
Hey guys I am currently growing indoors in a closet.
I have 2 White Widow auto fems in soil.
They are mid week 3 of veg right now.
They are showing some symptoms that I cannot quite figure out what, I have attached photos of my set up as well as RH and temp and of course the girls.

I have been feeding them nutes called Hyponex High Grade (NPK 7-10-6) which is what I could get my hands on, this is my 3rd grow and I had no issues with this nute in both of my previous grows but they were both photo types so maybe that's the problem? I'm not too sure.
I am hoping some of you with more experiences could point me in right directions on what to do.

Thanks in advance guys!

20210516_182829_HDR.jpg


20210516_182824_HDR.jpg


20210516_182745.jpg


20210516_182742.jpg


20210516_182730.jpg


20210516_182724.jpg
Do you have the bag that soil came in. I think @013 said it looks like coco sans perilite.
Probably unbuffered.
Also you need to test your ph.
5.8 in coco 6.3 in soil.
Do you have any access to calmag. If not you can make some.
Watering in coco is a daily event where soil you will need to let it dry.
Biggest thing we need to know what’s in that pot for sure.
Bill
 
Hey @013 , those tips look like the ones on my plant. White-ish/brownish. We thought it may have been light bleach, but I really don't think it is because the other plant (canna) hasn't gotten any of it and even the lower sites on MJ did get it. Also, this happened to me after feeding my plant - and leading it to be overfed (tip burns). So, could this be a phenomena caused when the medium is "too hot"? Maybe if we can analyze how two different plants develop the same issue on the complete opposite spectrums of the grow phase, we can determine what is going on. As OP's are in the infancy stages, and mine are about to be harvested... this is interesting.
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Not the best or most recent picture, but you can see the "bleaching" of the leaves occurring, and it got a bit worse after this pic was taken.
 
Looks like a general nute/micronute deficiency - whether or not that is pH causing it I don't know, but I'd give it rinse with a pH'd balanced fert/seaweed tonic and see if she perks up
Might be an idea to let her grow straight, then fim/top rather than just training the main stem
If you can get 4 decent shoots then train them to a cross your yield be be much improved
 
I generally use the system of watering them when top couple of inches are dry or so and I check by just kinda gently running my fingers around in the said top couple of inches of soil.
This is the problem with your plants. You are an overwaterer. The "system" of sticking your knuckles into the soil to see if it is moist at the top, is how you water a garden vegetable, not a weed. Weeds need to dry out between waterings all the way to the bottom, not just the top few inches. When you come along and water using this "system" you are adding water when there is still water sitting in the bottom of the container. Your lower roots are drowning and soon they will not be able to pick up any nutrients and you will be in danger of losing your plants.

You can fix this, but you need to start immediately. Read up on the "lift the pot" system of watering, or read my link here in my signature on how to properly water this weed. It will be like night and day once you switch over to the wet/dry cycle "system" of watering, I promise.
 
Do you have the bag that soil came in. I think @013 said it looks like coco sans perilite.
Probably unbuffered.
Also you need to test your ph.
5.8 in coco 6.3 in soil.
Do you have any access to calmag. If not you can make some.
Watering in coco is a daily event where soil you will need to let it dry.
Biggest thing we need to know what’s in that pot for sure.
Bill
I do have the bag but posting a pic of it won't do any good as it's im foreign language.
However after reading the bag it says the soil is the mixture of nute balanced soil-coco peat- perlite-worm castings, it also said the soil ph should be between 7.1 and 7.3
So I am thinking maybe the problem came from me introducing nutes too early to the plant in a semi-hot soil or not ph balacing my water before watering?
I just ordered a new ph meter as my previous one from last grow broke as well as some aquarium grade ph up&down.
I'm thinking I should let it dry until the said products get here and give it some ph balanced water flush. Maybe like 6.0ish?

This is the problem with your plants. You are an overwaterer. The "system" of sticking your knuckles into the soil to see if it is moist at the top, is how you water a garden vegetable, not a weed. Weeds need to dry out between waterings all the way to the bottom, not just the top few inches. When you come along and water using this "system" you are adding water when there is still water sitting in the bottom of the container. Your lower roots are drowning and soon they will not be able to pick up any nutrients and you will be in danger of losing your plants.

You can fix this, but you need to start immediately. Read up on the "lift the pot" system of watering, or read my link here in my signature on how to properly water this weed. It will be like night and day once you switch over to the wet/dry cycle "system" of watering, I promise.
Thank you, I read up on the lifting the pot method and I think I will be swtiching to that from now on
 
I do have the bag but posting a pic of it won't do any good as it's im foreign language.
However after reading the bag it says the soil is the mixture of nute balanced soil-coco peat- perlite-worm castings, it also said the soil ph should be between 7.1 and 7.3
So I am thinking maybe the problem came from me introducing nutes too early to the plant in a semi-hot soil or not ph balacing my water before watering?
I just ordered a new ph meter as my previous one from last grow broke as well as some aquarium grade ph up&down.
I'm thinking I should let it dry until the said products get here and give it some ph balanced water flush. Maybe like 6.0ish?


Thank you, I read up on the lifting the pot method and I think I will be swtiching to that from now on
coco peat, perlite, worm castings - not soil at all. Almost certainly it is not 'too hot' with nothing but worm castings in it.

I think you need to find some real soil or switch up your game to coco rules.
 
I'd say that's a soilless mix you're growing in.
Just to add with that mix you definitely want to be watering at a lower pH.
With a peat and Coco mix you need to be going in at around pH 5.8.
 
Thanks for replying @013
I am actually currently growing in soil, it's not canna-special soil but I'm overseas right now and basically got me a big bag of general gardening soil.
It's advertised to be a soil that earthworms ate and processed as they enrich the soil in the process.

I couldn't get my hands on PH up & down (I realized this may be a problem and ordered me couple of bottles, they should be here next week).
I generally use the system of watering them when top couple of inches are dry or so and I check by just kinda gently running my fingers around in the said top couple of inches of soil.
Pics were taken right before I water them btw
Baking Soda = pH up / Lemon Juice = pH down.
 
looks like Coco way more than soil. I'd follow Coco / Hydro Rules. I don't think it's getting nutes & the plant is eating itself. Need to feed nutes every time & pH to 5.8. You don't feed Coco plain water & you never let it dry out. Those top leaves look under fed, but healthy. Not drooping like they are over watered. This looks like a nute uptake issue to me.
 
you all are forgetting that he said the soil was pH adjusted to the high end... near 7. Sounds like soil to me and sort of looks like miracle grow in the container. I definitely see a nute uptake problem, but I think the "root" cause is from damaging the lower roots because of watering too often.
I'm guessing if the soil is in the 7's then the plant can't take up each nutrient because it's out of the correct pH range ?
 
I'm guessing if the soil is in the 7's then the plant can't take up each nutrient because it's out of the correct pH range ?
no... the soil base pH of 7 simply allows for the drift from 6.3pH that you should be coming in at, up to the upper part of the soil pH range. If he is coming in at 6.3 as he should, the soil will do its job and allow for the drift. High pH soil will not keep the nutrients out of the range, it simply provides the direction for the drift. If he was using soil for acidic plants, with its base pH in the 4's, the drift would go the other direction and things would not work very well. Always keep in mind that when you saturate a column of soil with a fluid, the pH of that fluid mostly takes over... it is only as a soil region dries and no longer has this pH influence from the fluid, that the pH in that region of the container slides back up to the base pH of the soil.
 
no... the soil base pH of 7 simply allows for the drift from 6.3pH that you should be coming in at, up to the upper part of the soil pH range. If he is coming in at 6.3 as he should, the soil will do its job and allow for the drift. High pH soil will not keep the nutrients out of the range, it simply provides the direction for the drift. If he was using soil for acidic plants, with its base pH in the 4's, the drift would go the other direction and things would not work very well. Always keep in mind that when you saturate a column of soil with a fluid, the pH of that fluid mostly takes over... it is only as a soil region dries and no longer has this pH influence from the fluid, that the pH in that region of the container slides back up to the base pH of the soil.
Then I guess 7.0 pH soil is Neutral just like 7.0 water ? Just trying to get a better understanding of it.
 
7.0 is just a number. There are essentially 2 types of soil when it comes to pH... soil for normal plants, and acidic soil for plants such as orchids and hydrangeas. Potting Soil is buffered up to 6.8-7 or so simply to provide upward drift for our nutrients, most of which are designed to become mobile between 6.2-6.8 pH. When I am growing organically, I really don't care what the pH of my soil is because neither do my microbes or the plants as long as pH is within 8-5 so it is not too base and not too acidic.

This is why soil from the garden doesn't work so well with our nutes in closed containers... it is not buffered and its base pH is lower than where we normally like to see it, therefore it can not provide drift for us when we water. This is why it is common to add lime to garden soils and to our potting mixes, so that the soil works with our fertilizers.
 
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